Exposed Sandy Beaches Research Articles

Ecological patterns of intertidal macrofauna across an anthropic gradient on tropical Gulf of Mexico sandy beaches: Insights for assessment

In the context of sandy coastlines under increasing coastal development and squeeze, coupled with the ongoing loss of global diversity, it is crucial to understand the ecological patterns of benthic macrofauna, which plays a key role in the trophic and biogeochemical functional connectivity between land and sea. Here, we assessed differences in the spatiotemporal patterns of macrofauna diversity and production in exposed sandy beaches of the southwestern Gulf of Mexico across a use and modification gradient and its utility as indicators of impacts. We also estimated the sampling effort for a representative species inventory, considering three tidal zones, and longitudinal spatial scales in four beaches twice a year, and locally after an event of great tourist incidence. The traditional diversity indices could not conclusively detect the stress gradient of the macrofauna in these systems. The abundance pattern of macrofauna species in the upper intertidal zone and the greater secondary production at the lower zone of the unmodified beaches could be useful as indicators of ecological integrity in natural beaches with similar morphodynamic conditions. On the contrary, the most disturbed beach exhibited greater instability in terms of its macrofauna temporal variation in the lower zone. We verified that the ecological integrity approach comprising both natural and anthropogenic factors and multiple stressors is a useful tool showing precisely how beach-intensive use and modification induce instability and less resilience of its macrofauna, reflected in the species' distribution by tidal zones, and the secondary production patterns. We also provide the first estimate of the optimal sampling effort required to get a representative inventory of the benthic intertidal macrofauna in sandy beaches of the Western Gulf of Mexico within a gradient.

Plastic and anthropogenic microfiber pollution on exposed sandy beaches in Nova Scotia, Canada

Aim: To investigate the baseline abundance of microplastics on two sandy beaches along an exposed coastline in an understudied region of the Northwest Atlantic. Methods: Sandy sediments were sampled from two beaches along the eastern shore of Nova Scotia, Canada from High, Mid, and Low intertidal positions. Density floatation using a sodium iodide (NaI) solution was used to separate particles from 100 g of sediments in each sample. Particles were characterized by size, shape, and colour, and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was conducted for polymer identification. Results: At both beaches, the majority of particles found were small (< 1.4 mm), transparent microfibers. Microplastics were polymers of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), nylon, or alkyds (paints). The mean concentrations at both beaches were similar, at 5.08 ± 3.20 and 5.58 ± 4.52 microplastics per 100 g of sediment. Non-plastic (i.e., natural and semi-synthetic cellulosic) microfibers were up to 19 times more abundant than microplastics, with mean concentrations of 75.9 ± 60.1 and 97.7 ± 87.9 per 100 g sediment. Mean particle counts did not differ significantly across tidal ranges due to their high variability over small spatial scales (10 s of m). Conclusion: Using new investigative tools yielded estimates of microplastic pollution 1-2 orders of magnitude lower than earlier research conducted at these sites, and was generally lower than values reported from other beaches globally. Sources of microfibers were potentially from high recreational use at these sites. Future monitoring could target these sites for time series analysis of microplastic change on exposed sandy beaches.

Niche width and overlap of benthic invertebrates in surf zones increase with distance from the estuarine source of organic matter

Benthic invertebrates in the surf zone of exposed sandy beaches represent important links for energy circulation between benthic and pelagic food webs. This work assesses the trophic ecology of co-occurring epi- and hyper-benthic invertebrates inhabiting the surf zone of sandy beaches located close to an estuarine mouth. It illustrates that different sources of organic matter induce changes in resource utilization. The trophic positions, and the niche width and overlap of species were described using δ13C and δ15N stable isotope analysis. The contribution of different sources to the particulate organic matter was quantified through stable isotopes analysis and fatty acids profiles. Shifts in the trophic niches of dominant species reflected a decrease in the contribution of estuarine carbon to the diets along the coast. This change in contribution of estuarine carbon also influenced trophic niche properties: more diverse resources availability resulted in narrower niches without overlap while less diverse resources resulted in broad isotopic niches and a highest overlap. Results show that spatial variations in the availability of resources can modify carbon pathways and trophic interactions in coastal food webs. Whenever resources are abundant, species display a more specialized diet while food scarcity leads to broader diets, a pattern consistent with the optimal foraging theory. This resource maximization behavior commonly observed in nature is also occurring in surf zone ecosystems.

Drone-Based Assessment of Marine Megafauna off Wave-Exposed Sandy Beaches

The wave-impacted waters off exposed sandy beaches support marine megafauna, including dolphins, whales, sharks, rays and turtles. To characterise variation in megafaunal assemblages in this challenging habitat, we used drone-based remote sensing to survey marine megafauna off 23 beaches along 1050 km of the New South Wales (NSW, Australia) coast from 2017 to 2020. The surveys occurred from September to May and included 17,085 drone flights, with megafaunal abundances standardised by flight hours. In total, we identified 3838 individual animals from 16 taxa, although no megafauna was observed off 5 of the 23 beaches surveyed. Bottlenose dolphins were the most commonly sighted taxa and accounted for 82.3% of total megafaunal abundance. Cownose (6.7%) and eagle (3.4%) rays were the next most abundant taxa, with potentially dangerous sharks being rarely sighted (<1% of total megafauna). The megafaunal assemblages off wave-exposed beaches in northern NSW significantly differed from those in the central region, whereas the assemblages off the central region and southern NSW did not differ significantly. Wave exposure and water temperature were the best predictors of megafaunal assemblage structure. The richness of marine megafauna off ocean beaches was significantly greater in northern than southern NSW, and turtles were only observed off beaches in the northern region. However, variation in megafaunal richness, as well as the abundances of total megafauna, dolphins, rays, sharks and turtles were not significantly explained by water temperature, wave height, distance to estuary, or proximity to the nearest reef. Overall, drone-based surveys determined that megafaunal assemblages off wave-exposed beaches are characterised by sparse individuals or small groups of sharks, turtles and rays, punctuated by occasional large aggregations of dolphins, cownose rays and schooling sharks. The exception to this pattern was bottlenose dolphins, which routinely patrolled some beaches in northern NSW.

Alive and dead foraminiferal assemblages at sandy beaches of Karachi coast-diversity, ecological distribution and responses to seasonal fluctuations

Foraminifera are eukaryotic protists and play a vital role in marine community structure. However, how physicochemical environment shape meiofaunal community structure at highly dynamic exposed sandy beaches of Arabian sea is inadequately known. This is the first study about spatiotemporal distribution of alive and dead benthic foraminiferal (BF) species from coastal regions of Pakistan based on 48 core samples collected monthly with the help of hand corer (diameter = 3 cm) from four stations at two sandy beaches of Karachi coast i.e., Sandspit and Hawksbay. Sampling was done throughout the year from March 2013 to April 2014 to observe seasonal variability in southwest and northeast monsoon season. Physicochemical parameters (temperature, salinity, pH, dissolved oxygen and nutrients i.e. Ammonia, nitrate and phosphorus) and sediment characteristics (grain size, moisture content, organic content) was analysed using standard methods.The top 0–2 cm sediment slice was analysed for both living and dead foraminiferal assemblages. A sum of 6615 individuals (ind.) cm−2 of BF consisting of 3451 ind. cm−2 empty tests and 3164 ind. cm−2 living specimens belonged to 66 species were recorded, where 47% species are Miliolina, 42% Rotaliida, 9% Textulariina and 2% are Spirillinina. The similarity percentage breakdown analysis (SIMPER) showed 18.51% average dissimilarity between foraminifera abundance at Sandspit and Hawksbay but stations within sites showed similarity (82.83% at Sandspit and 84.65% at Hawksbay). The highest abundance of alive BF was recorded in northeast monsoon season (3232 ind. cm −2) associated with high levels of nutrients. Alive and dead foraminifera assemblages at Karachi coast do not seem to be measured by a single physicochemical and environmental factor but multiple factors are controlling spatiotemporal distribution of BF at these beaches. The most significant and governing factor for benthic abundance and diversity at these beaches is the monsoon season.

Efficacy of Sampling Design to Study Macrofaunal Assemblage on Exposed Sandy Beaches

Efficacy of Sampling Design to Study Macrofaunal Assemblage on Exposed Sandy Beaches

Physical and chemical evolution of a Pleistocene marginal marine gold paleoplacer deposit, southern New Zealand

Pleistocene placer gold accumulation in coastal sediments during fluctuating Pleistocene sea levels and active tectonic uplift in southern New Zealand provides a well-constrained model for processes that have affected paleoplacers formed in similar settings in older rocks, going back to the Archean. Initial gold concentration occurred > 200 ky ago on exposed sandy beaches, where sand-blasting processes deformed fluvially-transported (~200 km) flakes into toroids, dumbells and spheroids. This gold was recycled into younger gravel-bearing sediments < 30 m thick during subsequent uplift (>50 m) with negligible morphological changes during < 10 km of fluvial transport. Most of the gold accumulated in basal fluvial gravels hosted in channels incised into gabbroic basement. Groundwater in the sedimentary sequence was derived from rain with marine aerosols and had the composition of dilute sea water. This low-temperature groundwater interaction has altered mafic clasts and immediately underlying basement to clays dominated by smectites and kaolinite, with some clay cementation. Groundwater alteration occurred under a wide range of redox and pH conditions that were lithologically controlled, principally by permeability contrasts at the centimetre to metre scale. Hence, oxidised waters produced clays impregnated with ferric iron oxyhydroxide, and reduced waters generated authigenic pyrite. Some of this pyrite was subsequently oxidised with localised acidification. Micron scale dissolution of gold via chloride, thiosulphate and bisulphide ligands led to authigenic gold impregnation of clays. Basal gravels contain clasts that have been pervasively clay-altered, partially clay-altered, and only incipiently clay-altered, attesting to repeated fluvial reworking to basement of the channelised sediments, and progressive gold concentration.

Sandy Beach Macrofauna of Yucatán State (Mexico) and Oil Industry Development in the Gulf of Mexico: First Approach for Detecting Environmental Impacts

The biodiversity of the coastal ecosystems in the Gulf of Mexico is threatened by anthropogenic activities of various kinds. The predominant portion of the land-sea margin in the State of Yucatán consists of exposed sandy beaches. This ecosystem is threatened by several activities that vary in spatial scales, at a local: cargo/fishing ports, touristic facilities, maritime traffic, and domestic pollution; and at a larger scale: the forthcoming development of the oil industry. In the absence of information about the biodiversity of these beaches, we implement the Marine Biodiversity Observation Network Pole to Pole sampling protocol to (1) Quantify the spatial patterns of diversity of macrofauna along the beaches; (2) quantify current levels of pollution by hydrocarbons (aromatic and aliphatic); (3) estimate sampling effort for future environmental impact assessments. During November 2018, six localities along the coastline of Yucatán State were sampled following a spatial hierarchical design that included three sites at each locality, and 9-18 core samples in the intertidal strata of each site. As a result, 31 species of invertebrates were registered. The patterns of distribution and abundance of species showed that there was a base community structure along the entire coast dominated by four species. In general, the density of species was relatively low (2-4 species/0.01 m3) and the density of individuals was high (20-200 ind./0.01 m3). The beta diversity was higher between localities with good environmental health, but the estimated alpha diversities did not show a pattern regarding the health of the coast. Lastly, the overall number of species reported suggest that gamma diversity of the macrofauna in the beaches of Yucatán is within the highest known worldwide. Levels of hydrocarbons detected in this study are exceptionally low compared to those reported for other coastal areas of the Gulf of Mexico and are several orders of magnitude lower than those considered as lower-threshold values for marine sediments. The biological and chemical patterns reported here indicated that it is an appropriate moment to start long-term monitoring. The sampling design we suggest is based on statistical precision and internationally recognized protocols for assessment of marine diversity on sandy beaches.

Macrofaunal assemblages from two low-energy sandy beaches within contrasting salinity environments in Northeastern Cuba

Low energy sheltered beaches occur in a wide range of coastal environments. Invertebrate macrofaunal assemblages for this beach type have been less studied compared with those at exposed sandy beaches. An estuarine and a reef-fringed beach in northeastern Cuba were sampled to assess the effects of freshwater input on the intertidal assemblages, and to describe the spatial zonation at both beach types. A total of 13 species were recorded; species richness between beaches was similar with ten species at the estuarine beach and nine species at the reef-fringed beach. Salinity and swash width differed significantly between the two beaches. Macrofaunal assemblages also differed between beaches, and the differences persisted over time. Moreover, salinity and swash width resulted in relevant predictors for differences in macrofaunal composition. Species were clustered in two main cross-shore zones corresponding with the resurgence and the retention zones. These findings contribute to the understanding of factors affecting macrofaunal communities in sandy beaches that have been under-represented in global studies. In addition, this study contributes to the knowledge of the structure and composition of macrofaunal assemblages in the less well studied beaches of Cuba.

Euryhalinity of subtropical marine and estuarine polychaetes evaluated through carbonic anhydrase activity and cell volume regulation.

Polychaete worms are widespread and diverse in marine and estuarine habitats subject to varying salinity, in areas influenced by tides, demanding physiological adjustment for internal homeostasis. They are typically considered and reported to be osmoconformers, but they are not often studied for their osmoregulation. Here, three species of polychaete worms from distinct coastal habitats have been investigated: the spionid Scolelepis goodbody (intertidal in saline, exposed sandy beaches), the nereidid Laeonereis culveri (estuarine polyhaline), and the nephtyid Nephtys fluviatilis (estuarine oligohaline). The general objective here was to relate ecological aspects and physiology of the studied species. Constitutive whole body osmolality and carbonic anhydrase activity (CAA, relevant for osmoregulation, acid-base balance and respiration) have been assayed. In addition, cell volume regulatory capacity (from whole body cell dissociation) was challenged under hypoosmotic and hyperosmotic shocks (50% intensity), with respect to isosmotic control. S. googdbody and L. culveri, the two species from most saline environments (marine/estuarine), showed higher CAA than N. fluviatilis, which, in turn, displayed a hyperosmotic gradient to water of salinity 15. Cells from S. goodbody and L. culveri showed regulatory volume decrease upon swelling, with S. goodbody showing the largest volume increase. As in other more studied marine invertebrate groups, polychaetes also show variability in their osmoregulatory physiology, related to distinct saline challenges faced in their coastal habitats.

Dominant Bivalve in an Exposed Sandy Beach Regulates Community Structure Through Spatial Competition

Fluctuations in abundance of dominant species can cause competitive release of resources with consequences on community structure and functioning. In the present study, changes in the intertidal macroinfauna community of an exposed sandy beach were evaluated during two contrasting periods characterized by low and high densities of the yellow clam Amarilladesma mactroides. The increase in clam abundance and biomass was associated with a significant decrease in abundance of the rest of the community. In particular, a decline was observed for the pea crab Austinixa patagoniensis, a commensal species that lives in the burrows of the shrimp Sergio mirim. Our study demonstrates that fluctuations in clam abundance lead to long-term changes in community structure, suggesting the presence of competitive interactions. The environmental stability over the two periods strengthens the hypothesis that the competition between species is crucial for shaping the ecological community. Stable isotope analysis allows discarding trophic competition as mechanism of exclusion. Image maps reveal complementary distribution of species, showing the relevance of the spatial competition, which is mediated by changes in abundance of a third species. Indeed, high densities of A. mactroides reduce the available area for the establishment of the S. mirim burrows, limiting the foraging behavior of its commensal, the pea crab. Such an interaction drives density-dependent exclusion of the pea crab from the intertidal zone following the establishment of the yellow clam population. This study illustrates that spatial competition triggered by the increase of a bed-forming species can have community-wide consequences in exposed sandy beaches.

The feeding habits of the endemic Remo flounder, Oncopterus darwinii (Actinopterygii: Pleuronectidae), in an exposed sandy beach’s surf zone in southern Brazil

The Remo flounder, Oncopterusdarwinii Steindachner, 1874 is a small Pleuronectidae (~ 250 mm TL) distributed in the warm-temperate zone from Santa Catarina (28°S – Brazil) to the Gulf of San Matías (42°S – Argentina). We studied the occurrence and diet of juveniles of this flatfish (85% &amp;lt; 100 mm TL) for one year (August 2009 to July 2010) in a southern Brazilian sandy beach. Individuals were much more common in spring and early summer than in the other seasons. Of the 758 individuals analyzed, only 69 (9.1%) were found with empty stomachs. The Remo flounder fed predominantly on small crustaceans (gammarid amphipods, mysids and the hipiidae Emeritabrasiliensis Schmitt, 1935) and no seasonal differences were found in the composition of the diet of this flatfish. However, variations in the Index of Relative Importance (IRI) were found among seasons, which most likely can be explained by a decrease in the availability of favored food items throughout the year. The pattern of distribution of O.darwinii indicates that southern Brazilian sandy beaches are used as nursery ground for this species.

Small-scale changes of an arthropod beach community after hard-engineering interventions on a Mediterranean beach

Sandy beaches and their resident communities are subjected to increasing impacts of human interventions and activities. Still, very little is known about the effects of hard engineering interventions on sandy beach ecosystems. This study analysed the arthropod community on a beach stretch of about ten kilometres in the western Mediterranean coast of Italy. This is a microtidal and exposed sandy beach at the delta of Ombrone River, long since subjected to coastal erosion. Aiming at contrasting erosion dynamics, a seawall of about one thousand metres was constructed landwards at one side of the river mouth, and several perpendicular groynes were made in the sublittoral zone in front of the wall and one thousand metres further. The objectives of this study were to (1) identify the main drivers defining the arthropod community structure on a changing Mediterranean sandy beach and (2) evaluate whether the anti-erosion hard-engineering interventions had any effects on the arthropod community along the beach continuum, at the two sides of the river mouth. Arthropods were sampled on the beach every three months, over a two year period, during and after the hard-engineering works. Individuals were counted and identified when possible to the species level; data were analysed with multivariate factor analysis, which was used as an exploratory tool to reveal relationships among variables. The results proved a correlation of the community composition with coastal erosive–accretive dynamics, climatic (seasonal) changes and beach width. Biotic interactions seem to have assumed a major role in defining the community composition in the beach stretch where the seawall has already affected the coastal dynamics by producing beach accretion.

Warming intensify CO2 flux and nutrient release from algal wrack subsidies on sandy beaches.

Algal wrack subsidies underpin most of the food web structure of exposed sandy beaches and are responsible of important biogeochemical processes that link marine and terrestrial ecosystems. The response in decomposition of algal wrack deposits to global warming has not been studied in ocean-exposed sandy beaches to date. With this aim, passive open top chambers (OTCs) were used to increase soil temperature within the range predicted by the IPCC for western Europe (between 0.5 and 1.5°C), following the hypothesis that the biogeochemical processing of macroalgal wrack subsidies would accelerate in response to temperature increase. The effect of temperature manipulation on three target substrates: fresh and aged macroalgae, and bare sand, was tested. Results indicated that a small warming (<0.5°C) affected the wrack decomposition process through traceable increases in soil respiration through CO2 flux, inorganic nutrients within the interstitial environment (N and P), sediment organic contents measured through the amount of proteins and microbial pool through the total soil DNA. The different responses of soil variables in the studied substrates indicated that the decomposition stage of stranded macroalgae influences the biogeochemical processing of organic matter in sandy beaches. Thus, CO2 fluxes, releases of organic and inorganic nutrients and microbial activity intensify in aged wrack deposits. Our results predict that expected global warming will increase the release of inorganic nutrients to the coastal ocean by 30% for the N (21Gg/year) and 5.9% for P (14 Gg/year); that increase for the flow of C to the atmosphere as CO2 was estimated in 8.2% (523Gg/year). This study confirms the key role of sandy beaches in recycling ocean-derived organic matter, highlighting their sensitivity to a changing scenario of global warming that predicts significant increases in temperature over the next few decades.

Response of a fringing reef coastline to the direct impact of a tropical cyclone

AbstractTropical cyclones generate extreme hazards along coastlines, often leading to losses of life and property. Although coral reefs exist in cyclone‐prone regions globally, few studies have measured the hydrodynamic conditions and morphological responses of reef‐fringed coastlines to tropical cyclones. Here, we examine the impact of Tropical Cyclone Olwyn on a section of Australia's largest fringing reef (Ningaloo Reef) using in situ wave and water level observations, topographic surveys, and numerical modeling. Despite forereef significant wave heights reaching 6 m and local winds of 140 km h−1, average beach volume change was only −3 m3 m−1. The results indicate that this erosion was due to locally generated wind waves within the lagoon rather than the offshore waves that were dissipated on the reef crest. A comparison of these volume changes to observations of tropical cyclone impacts along exposed sandy beaches quantitatively demonstrates the substantial coastal protection reefs can provide against extreme storms.

Influence of storm surges on intertidal meiofauna of an exposed sandy beach

Influence of storm surges on intertidal meiofauna of an exposed sandy beach

The Importance of Environmental and Spatial Factors in the Metacommunity Dynamics of Exposed Sandy Beach Benthic Invertebrates

We studied the contribution of environmental and spatial factors in determining the metacommunity dynamics of benthic macroinvertebrates in ocean-exposed sandy beaches. A combination of different metacommunity models contributed to the structure of the benthic species, suggesting that the interplay of environmental and spatial factors played a key role in determining the beach community structure. Our study highlights the sensitivity of beach invertebrates to environmental factors such as morphodynamic descriptors, and to oceanographic-related variables (e.g., sea-water temperature). The results also suggest significant spatial signals at a large geographical scale. We applied two different species categorizations, high dispersive vs low dispersive and generalist vs specialist, to disentangle the roles of dispersal mode and habitat specialization in the beach metacommunity structure. The strength of the environmental and spatial factors varied depending on the category of species traits considered, emphasizing the value of using different groups of species in explaining variation in metacommunity dynamics. Low dispersive species showed a better ability to track environmental variability than high dispersive species, which were more spatially constrained. Habitat specialists were better able to track environmental variability than generalists, which were mainly predicted by pure spatial factors. A better understanding of the metacommunity dynamics using different species categorizations can help to improve our predictions about exposed beach community structure, and to prioritize management actions to cope with biodiversity loss in such superlative marine environment.

Population and production parameters of the wedge clam Donax trunculus (Linnaeus, 1758) in intertidal areas on the southwest Spanish coast: Considerations in relation to protected areas

The main objectives of this study were (i) to provide an updated age-length key for D. trunculus from Atlantic waters, and (ii) to evaluate population dynamics, the timing of recruitment and production parameters of the wedge clam Donax trunculus in two moderately exposed sandy beaches (the protected area of Doñana National Park and the tourist destination of Isla Canela) along the littoral of Huelva (SW Spain). First an in-depth analysis of the shell and updated estimation of growth parameters of the intertidal D. trunculus population were performed between January 2014 and July 2015 using two different methods i) thin-layer cross section (TL) (ii) length-frequency distributions (LFD). Von Bertalanffy growth functions provided an asymptotic length of 46mm (LFD) and 46.7mm (TL) and growth constants of 0.48 (LFD) and 0.47yr−1 (TL) in Doñana beach. In addition, several deformities as well as signs of shell repair were observed. Population dynamics analyses through length-frequency distribution clarified the timing of recruitment (February–March and July). The mean annual biomass (B¯) of intertidal populations of D. trunculus ranged between 3.03 (Doñana) and 3.31g ash-free dry mass (AFDW) m−2yr−1 (Isla Canela). Individual production showed the highest value at 27mm length (0.117gAFDWm−2yr−1) and annual production (P) ranged between 3.40 (Doñana) and 4.91g (Isla Canela), resulting in renewal rate (P/B¯) values between 1.03 and 1.61, respectively. The present results, together with information on environmental parameters, revealed clear differences in population dynamics and production between beaches related to the presence or absence of a protection figure.

Mass Mortalities Affecting Populations of the Yellow ClamAmarilladesma mactroidesAlong Its Geographic Range

The yellow clam Amarilladesma mactroides (Deshayes, 1854) is considered a vulnerable species since the mid-1990s. Populations have experienced mass mortalities throughout their entire range of distribution (23–41°S) along exposed sandy beaches of Atlantic South America. Detrimental anthropogenic impacts have further contributed to failure of populations to make a recovery. To determine the factors involved in these events, density prior to a mortality event was calculated and live yellow clams encompassingmost of its geographic range distribution were analyzed histologically to describe parasites and pathologies. Moreover, moribund specimens were analyzed by molecular techniques to test for the presence of the virus OsHV-1. A mortality event was recorded after a maximum density of 127 clams/m2 was attained. No clear pattern was found between the prevalence and intensity of infection and localities, mortality events, or sampling season. Although OsHV-1 was not observed in any of the yellow clams tested, the possibility that another viral agent was implicated cannot be ruled out. The presence of bacteria of the genus Vibrio in combination with stress caused by a relatively high population density is suggested as the likely cause of these episodic mass mortalities.

The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: Beach recovery along the southwest coast of England

Sand and gravel beaches naturally act as a coastal buffer, absorbing wave energy and dynamically adapting to the seasonal and long-term wave climate. Significant shifts in nearshore morphology can occur during extreme wave events, which can have a significant impact on coastal vulnerability. During the winter of 2013/14, the Atlantic coast of Europe received an unprecedented sequence of very energetic wave conditions (8-week mean offshore Hs=4.4m). These events caused extensive physical (beach and dune erosion) and socio-economic (flooding, damage to infrastructure) impacts throughout the west coast of Europe. Many monitored sites in the UK and France were in their most eroded state since morphological records began (5–10years). We consider the geomorphological significance of the storm response at 38 natural beaches in the southwest of England, ranging from semi-sheltered reflective gravel barriers to ultra-dissipative exposed sand beaches with dunes. The extent and patterns of post-storm recovery are examined in detail at three beaches with characteristic storm response behaviours. Exposed sandy beaches were dominated by cross-shore transport processes leading to significant loss of sediment offshore from the intertidal zone (>200m3/m); exposed gravel beaches were dominated by overwash with significant loss landward; and semi-sheltered sites exposed to more oblique wave forcing were dominated by a rotational response due to alongshore sediment redistribution. Due to these contrasting responses, mechanisms and timescales for beach recovery displayed strong inter-site and intra-site variations. In offshore and rotational cases, the recovery processes were multi-annual, comprising seasonal to decadal signals and were intrinsically linked to the storm response mechanisms, while permanent losses occurred when overwash dominated. We show that post-storm recovery does not necessarily occur during calm periods and that in many cases high-energy wave events appear to be essential for recovery of sediment (offshore and counter-rotation). Our results highlight the significance of dominant climatic oscillations, multi-annual storm sequencing, storm tracks and resultant variations in wave angle, in controlling the impact that extreme wave events have on contrasting sand/gravel beaches in exposed/sheltered locations.