Coastal Evolution Research Articles

Monitoring Coastal Evolution and Geomorphological Processes Using Time-Series Remote Sensing and Geospatial Analysis: Application Between Cape Serrat and Kef Abbed, Northern Tunisia

The monitoring of coastal evolution (coastline and associated geomorphological features) caused by episodic and persistent processes associated with climatic and anthropic activities is required for coastal management decisions. The availability of open access, remotely sensed data with increasing spatial, temporal, and spectral resolutions, is promising in this context. The coastline of Northern Tunisia is currently showing geomorphic process, such as increasing erosion associated with lateral sedimentation. This study aims to investigate the potential of time-series optical data, namely Landsat (from 1985–2019) and Google Earth® satellite imagery (from 2007 to 2023), to analyze shoreline changes and morphosedimentary and geomorphological processes between Cape Serrat and Kef Abbed, Northern Tunisia. The Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) was used to quantify the multitemporal rates of shoreline using two metrics: the net shoreline movement (NSM) and the end-point rate (EPR). Erosion was observed around the tombolo and near river mouths, exacerbated by the presence of surrounding dams, where the NSM is up to −8.31 m/year. Despite a total NSM of −15 m, seasonal dynamics revealed a maximum erosion in winter (71% negative NSM) and accretion in spring (57% positive NSM). The effects of currents, winds, and dams on dune dynamics were studied using historical images of Google Earth®. In the period from 1994 to 2023, the area is marked by dune face retreat and removal in more than 40% of the site, showing the increasing erosion. At finer spatial resolution and according to the synergy of field observations and photointerpretation, four key geomorphic processes shaping the coastline were identified: wave/tide action, wind transport, pedogenesis, and deposition. Given the frequent changes in coastal areas, this method facilitates the maintenance and updating of coastline databases, which are essential for analyzing the impacts of the sea level rise in the southern Mediterranean region. Furthermore, the developed approach could be implemented with a range of forecast scenarios to simulate the impacts of a higher future sea-level enhanced climate change.

Transdisciplinary Research Supports the Sustainability of Barrier Island Systems Threatened by Climate Change

AbstractThe management of developed barrier islands is often piece‐meal and reactionary despite the complex, dynamic nature of these systems, and sustainable practices will become increasingly difficult due to heightened pressures of climate change. Adaptation actions, including nature‐based solutions, need to be thoroughly evaluated prior to implementation to understand system‐wide impacts and avoid maladaptation. Anarde et al. (2024a), (https://doi.org/10.1029/2023ef003672), Anarde et al. (2024b), (https://doi.org/10.1029/2023ef004200) is the latest important contribution in a growing body of transdisciplinary research that more robustly evaluates the complex physical process‐and‐response relationship of barrier systems via sophisticated numerical modeling approaches that also interface with socioeconomic models to inform coastal management actions in response to mitigating coastal risk. This new research indicates the importance of coordinated system‐scale barrier island management, as strategies to reduce coastal hazard risk in one location will directly affect adjacent communities. Further, this work demonstrates that reducing barrier management interventions may actually promote barrier recovery and sustainability in the face of sea level rise. In addition, recent advances in the analysis and application of remotely sensed data from satellites and oblique aerial photography provide scientists an unprecedented opportunity to track coastal evolution over a wide range of spatial and temporal scales at minimal cost. As sea level rise and changing storm patterns challenge the sustainable management of barrier island systems, integrating these advanced, transdisciplinary tools will enable scientists and coastal practitioners to more thoroughly evaluate coastal adaptation options, efficiently invest limited resources to mitigate coastal hazard risk for communities, support healthy ecosystems, and reduce system‐wide impacts.

Shore ice control on coastal geomorphic evolution in cold regions

Shore ice is a common feature on cold climate coasts, which are abundant in mid- and high-latitude regions, however it is understudied. Previous research has reported both beach protection and erosion as potential impacts from shore ice presence. Altered ice dynamics resulting from a changing climate are likely to intensify these impacts. To address this discrepancy and improve future coastal change predictions we conducted the first combined field, laboratory and modeling study of shore-ice processes and impacts. Beach and nearshore morphology mapping, experiments with a novel cryogenic wave tank, and 3D coastal evolution modeling revealed that shore ice protected the beach from storms, but scoured the nearshore at the ice edge and transported sediment offshore, likely past the depth of closure. This resulted in enhanced beach erosion during the ice-free and non-storm season, countering the protective benefit from the ice. This study indicates that shore ice plays an important and likely evolving role in geomorphic evolution along cold climate coasts.

Taphonomy and taphofacies of the bioclastic accumulations of Baía Formosa Paleolagoon (Quaternary), Rio de Janeiro state, Brazil

The study of taphofacies is extremely relevant in Paleontology as it provides support for paleoenvironmental interpretation by associating the preservation state of fossil content with sedimentological and stratigraphic characteristics. Despite its importance, there are few analyses of taphofacies in bioclastic accumulations of invertebrates in Brazilian sedimentary basins or Quaternary sedimentary accumulations. Therefore, this article aims to identify taphofacies in Holocene bioclastic accumulations distributed along the coastal plains of Armação de Búzios, Rio de Janeiro State, Brazil. After qualitative observations and taphonomic analysis of material from two outcrops located in the Canal Marina Porto Búzios, three distinct taphofacies were identified. Taphofacies 1 was interpreted as a beach environment related to strandlines; taphofacies 2 was interpreted as a shallow lagoon environment; and taphofacies 3 was interpreted as a lagoon margin. The taphofacies identified in this study are related to the maximum Holocene transgression, which occurred in the region about 6000 years BP, and the subsequent marine regression. This study presents relevant and unprecedented data, enabling a better understanding of the coastal evolution of Armação dos Búzios and Cabo Frio.

Evolution of Coastal Environments under Inundation Scenarios Using an Oceanographic Model and Remote Sensing Data

A new methodology to map Italian coastal areas at risk of flooding is presented. This approach relies on detailed projections of the future sea level from a high-resolution, three-dimensional model of the Mediterranean Sea circulation, on the best available digital terrain model of the Italian coasts, and on the most advanced satellite-derived data of ground motion, provided by the European Ground Motion Service of Copernicus. To obtain a reliable understanding of coastal evolution, future sea level projections and estimates of the future vertical ground motion based on the currently available data were combined and spread over the digital terrain model, using a GIS-based approach specifically developed for this work. The coastal plains of Piombino-Follonica and Marina di Campo (Tuscany Region), Alghero-Fertilia (Sardinia), and Rome and Latina-Sabaudia (Lazio Region) were selected as test cases for the new approach. These coastal stretches are important for the ecosystems and the economic activities they host and are relatively stable areas from a geological point of view. Flood maps were constructed for these areas, for the reference periods 2010–2040, 2040–2070, and 2040–2099. Where possible, the new maps were compared with previous results, highlighting differences that are mainly due to the more refined and resolved sea-level projection and to the detailed Copernicus ground motion data. Coastal flooding was simulated by using the “bathtub” approach without considering the morphodynamic processes induced by waves and currents during the inundation process. The inundation zone was represented by the water level raised on a coastal DTM, selecting all vulnerable areas that were below the predicted new water level. Consequent risk was related to the exposed asset.

Factors Controlling the Formation and Evolution of a Beach Zone in Front of a Coastal Cliff: The Case of the East Coast of Evia Island in the Aegean Sea, Eastern Mediterranean

The present study examines the recent evolution of a cliff coast along the Aegean Sea, considering its geotectonic context, oceanographic factors, sediment dynamics, and human impact. Initially, the formation of this coastal stretch was influenced by neotectonic faults, oriented both semi-parallel and diagonally relative to the present coastline orientation (NE–SW). Subsequently, the delivery of terrestrial sediment from ephemeral rivers and cliff erosion, along with nearshore wave-induced hydrodynamics have played a secondary role in shaping its current configuration, which includes a beach zone along the base of the cliff. This secondary phase of coastal evolution occurred over the past 4–5 thousand years, coinciding with a period of slow sea level rise (approximately 1 mm/year). Evidence such as uplifted notches and beachrock formations extending to around 5 m water depth suggests intervals of relative sea level stability, interrupted by episodic tectonic events. Anthropogenic interventions, related to both changes in coastal sediment budget and coastal engineering projects, have caused beach erosion, particularly in its central and northern sectors.

A Boulder Beach Formed by Waves From a Calving Glacier Revisited: Multidecadal Tsunami–Controlled Coastal Changes in Front of Eqip Sermia, West Greenland

ABSTRACTThe calving of glaciers regularly produces tsunami‐like waves that pose a serious threat to coastal environments. Those strong waves are not only able to move ice mélange and redistribute icebergs, growlers, or sea ice across a fjord but also flood and remodel neighbouring cliffs and beaches. Here, we analyze over 90 years (1929–2023) of coastal zone changes that occurred in front of Eqip Sermia. We show that calving waves play a dominant role in transforming the lateral moraine and forming a beach and spit system south of the glacier front. Part of the former moraine has transformed into a boulder‐dominated spit, which closed the lagoon over the years. By multidecadal analysis, we also detected a significant erosion of unconsolidated cliffs located on the opposite side of the bay (~0.53 m per year between 1985 and 2023). In addition, we demonstrate that even a single event (one calving wave) can remodel a beach surface by entrainment of up to 1.8‐m‐diameter boulders and the erosion of the beach surface by washing away sand and gravel from rocky outcrops. Our study constitutes important progress toward modes of paraglacial coastal evolution in regions characterized by rapidly retreating calving glaciers.

Shoreline retreat and beach nourishment are projected to increase in Southern California

Sandy beaches in Southern California are experiencing rising coastal erosion due to changes in precipitation patterns and urban growth. As a result, beach nourishment is necessary for mitigation. In our study, we forecast the rates of shoreline retreat and the required volumes of sand nourishment to mitigate it for the coming decades. We employ photogrammetric multi-decadal shoreline positioning and Digital Shoreline Analysis System methods to measure and predict the coastal evolution of the Gulf of Santa Catalina in Southern California. This region is hypothesized to be globally representative of other semi-arid sandy coasts facing similar hydroclimatic and anthropogenic challenges. Our findings indicate that Southern California’s shoreline retreat rates for sandy beaches will increase from the present average value of ~−1.45 to −2.12 meters per year in 2050 and to −3.18 meters per year in 2100. Consequently, the annual volume of sand required for beach nourishment could triple by 2050, increasing from the present-day amount of ~1223 to ~3669 cubic meters per year per kilometer. However, the associated cost for this nourishment will grow five times, exacerbating several coastal communities’ economic and logistical pressures. Similar trends are emerging globally, with semi-arid developing nations already grappling with coastal hazards and may struggle to manage the escalating costs of curbing beach nourishment.

OSL dating of very young aeolian sediments of NW Spain to assess dune erosion and accretion periods

Optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages of young coastal dune ridges have allowed getting more knowledge on the deposition, erosion and evolution of coastal dune systems in Northern Europe during historical times. However, there is a lack of knowledge of the evolution of the same systems in SW Europe. The studies published in the last years about fossil dunes in NW Spain have allowed the reconstruction of the coastal evolution of this area from the Marine Isotopic Stage (MIS 8) until the Middle Holocene. However, there is still a poor knowledge for the Late Holocene and namely the last centuries. Dating young sediments is challenging due to the low signal to noise ratio of the natural OSL signal and because young samples are very sensitive to thermal transfer or partial bleaching of the luminescence signal during transport. In the last century, erosion and accretion events are better known because remote sensing methods allowed to model some coastal dune systems. However, OSL dating has also been particularly useful in NW Europe to get a better knowledge on the coastal dune evolution. In this work, seven samples from dune ridges and a climbing dune of a coastal system in Playa de Trece (NW Spain) were dated by OSL, as they record the last accretion events occurred in the last two centuries, and above all the 20th Century. For assessing the ages we have compared the results from both parametric central age models and Bayesian statistic using R package BayLum.

Tracing the Late Quaternary coastal evolution of Central Kerala, India, around the lost ancient port Muziris using multi-proxy study of the sedimentary archives

The Central Kerala coast in Southwest India serves as a valuable natural archive for studies of the Late Quaternary coastal evolution, palaeoclimate, and maritime trades. The coast is an archeologically and culturally significant region in South India, located in the mouth of the longest river in Kerala, the Periyar River. The riverbank of the Periyar at its mouth is believed to host the ancient port Muziris, whose remnants are found in the areas around where the Periyar River joins the Arabian Sea. Sea level oscillations and climate variabilities in the past have played a pivotal role in the destruction of the Muziris port. Recent excavations unearthed many artifacts from nearby areas of the river confluence; however, the exact location of the port remains unresolved. The present study is an attempt to trace out the coastal evolutionary processes and palaeoclimatic conditions that prevailed in the area during the Late Quaternary period using three drilled cores retrieved from this stretch of the coastal lands. A multi-proxy approach, combining geochemical, mineralogical, palynological, and geochronological tools was used in the study. The Holocene deposit in the study area is composed mainly of sand and clay-dominant sediments that fall within an age range of 1.1–8.1 cal kyr BP, whereas the underlying sedimentary sequence dates to a maximum of 31.5–37.9 cal kyr BP. The inorganic and organic elemental compositions, together with the textural and palynological attributes, indicate that Holocene sedimentation occurred here under fluctuating environmental conditions with significant changes in climate and sea level positions. The upper part of this section bears the signature of the humid depositional environment that prevailed during the Late Holocene when sand-dominated sediments were deposited and brought in under the influence of longshore drift. The sediments from the lower part of the section carry the signature of the Holocene transgression when deposition took place under submerged conditions with considerable marine influence but receiving significant terrestrial inputs. The study highlights the location of the historically significant lost ancient port of Muziris at Kodungallur near the mouth of the Periyar River. A three-fold evolutionary model proposed for the coastal segment revealed that the location of the Muziris port was part of the Periyar River near Kodungallur, as mentioned by the historians, and the settlement near Pattanam may be considered a satellite township of the ancient Muziris port.

Wave Impacts On Cliffs: From The Field To The Laboratory

Rock coasts occupy over 50% of the global shoreline and many sandy beaches are underlain by coastal platforms and rocky cliffs. The problem of wave-driven cliff erosion is of great societal importance, with many coastal communities located on top of cliffs that are at risk from erosion. Continuing global mean sea level rise and changes in storminess are generally expected to exacerbate the erosion of coastlines (Hurst et al., 2016), as larger waves can reach the cliff toe without breaking offshore. However, the science underpinning wave-induced cliff erosion is still at a relatively early stage. Even the relative contributions of waves to cliff erosion, which include hydraulic forces, impulse pressures and abrasion, are not well resolved. Most insights into wave impacts on cliffs come from field observations of coastal ground motion during storm events (e.g. Young et al., 2011, Huppert et al., 2020). These field investigations demonstrate the dependence of large wave impacts on both water levels and wave conditions, and in some cases the correlation of periods of large ground motion with increased erosion (Earlie et al., 2015). Unsurprisingly, although large impacts generally occur at high tide during storms characterised by large significant wave heights, the largest impacts occur when tidal levels and storm surge combine to provide water levels that are conducive to the incident waves breaking on the cliffs (Thompson et al., 2019; 2022). Larger wave heights or shallower water levels tend to lead to breaking further offshore, with a broken wave interacting with the cliff, while smaller wave heights or deeper water levels may preclude strong wave breaking on the cliffs. There have been relatively few experimental studies into wave-driven cliff erosion; these were generally undertaken under very idealised wave conditions (e.g. Sunamura, 1977) and using materials that were either too soft to approximate natural rocks (e.g. Sunamura, 1977; 1982) or too hard to be eroded (Hansom et al., 2008). Although these experiments have informed the development of rocky coast evolution models, their results have not been replicated or verified, and rigorous scaling laws to link laboratory erosion rates to field time scales are currently lacking. However, considering cliffs as steep or vertical (natural) coastal structures, a large body of experimental work has been undertaken to investigate impact pressures and their implications for the failure of engineered structures (e.g. Peregrine, 2003, Bullock et al., 2007). These investigations are complicated by the inherent variability of the wave impact pressures, even within controlled experiments undertaken with highly repeatable incident wave conditions (Raby et al., 2022). Although field and laboratory data are valuable, it is still very challenging to quantify wave contributions to cliff erosion due to the relatively short durations and variable conditions of most field records. On the other hand, most controlled laboratory investigations have typically focused on loads on non-erodible engineered structures such as seawalls. The current project seeks to advance understanding of the fundamental mechanisms and timescales of wave-driven erosion on rocky cliffs, which will be vital in improving assessments of cliff erosion hazard in high-energy wave environments as sea levels rise.

Shore platform erosion and cliff retreat in the Eastern Korea: A quantified assessment using 10Be concentrations and numerical modeling

Shore platforms, essential for coastal analysis and management, are poorly understood in terms of their long-term evolution, particularly regarding coastal cliff retreat rates and trends, despite their common presence in rocky coastlines. Rock coasts constitute fully erosional environments, yet long-term rates and trends of coastal cliff retreat remain poorly understood. This study adds to the limited number of studies that use cosmogenic isotopes to reconstruct millennial-scale cliff erosion. Cosmogenic 10Be concentrations were measured in 16 rock samples collected across an active 31 m wide granitic Jangsa shore platform in eastern Korea. A geometry-based inverse numerical model was used to simulate 10Be concentrations for various cliff retreat modes, relative sea level curves, and platform downwearing models. The model results were combined with measured concentrations to find the most likely scenario for coastal evolution. Our findings reveal that the shore platform has widened through time and is entirely formed during the Holocene, unlike the previous cosmogenic study in western Korea that attributed the formation of shore platforms to former interglacial periods. The results suggest acceleration in cliff retreat rate from 1.4 mm yr−1 at 7.4 kyr BP to 7.0 mm yr−1 at present. Accelerating cliff erosion may pose a threat to coastal communities, particularly in the context of observed and predicted anthropogenic sea level rise.

Coastal Evolution of Satingpra Peninsula, Songkhla Province: Implications for Understanding Songkla Lagoon Formation

Songkhla Lagoon has been studied for decades, but there is no clear evidence of its origin. As a barrier to the lagoon, the Satingpra Peninsula plays a crucial role in understanding its formation. Eleven sediment samples from sand ridges and tidal flats on the Satingpra Peninsular were collected and analysed for granulometry and geochronology. Both coarse-grained and fine-grained quartz-rich fractions were utilised to prepare samples of aliquots. The optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating was performed using the single-aliquot regenerative dose method for a determined (deposited) age. In addition, previous research, geological surveys and geochronological data were combined to explain their formation in this region. The OSL ages in the present study indicated that the late Holocene regression occurred between 0.36 and 3.27 ka (ka stands for 1,000 years). Integrated with previous studies, recorded ages dating back to the mid-Holocene sea level rise (ca. 6.5 ka) and the subsequent late-Holocene decline, indicate that both the old lagoon and middle beach ridge exhibit a sand ridge formation that runs parallel to the shoreline, extending from the south to the north. The middle sand, in this study, formed from about 3.02 to 1.5 ka ago resulting in the lagoon being isolated from the sea during that time. The lagoonal tide led the deposition as the present tidal flat from 3.3 to 1.7 ka. About 2.19 ka ago, the inner and middle ridges formed due to wind-driven processes influenced by a dry climate. This was followed by a continued sea level regression, leading to the formation of the outer ridge around 1.5 ka ago when the sea level was 1.4 m below the present sea level. However, it’s essential to consider this sea level data in relation to the tectonic and human-induced land motions in the surrounding area. HIGHLIGHTS OSL ages, based on average dose model at the Northern Satingpra Peninsula were 1.04 - 3.27 ka. The old sand ridges of the Satingpra Peninsula prograde northward after mid Holocene sea level highstand. Paleo sea level based on wind-wave sediments contact was 1.4 m lower than present day at 1.46 ka. GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT

On the use of satellite information to detect coastal change: Demonstration case on the coast of Spain

Recent developments in satellite processing tools allow low-cost, fast and automatic processing of a large amount of information from Earth observation, enhancing the capability of detecting coastal changes from space at different temporal scales. Some works have assessed the quality of these data and applied it to detect coastal evolution locally, most of them focusing on mid-term and long-term changes in the coastline. In this work, we evaluate the capability to monitor changes in coastal morphology at various temporal and spatial scales using 1D (coastlines) and 3D (bathymetry) satellite-derived data obtained from site-specific processing methods. Local characteristics were included in several phases of the development of the satellite products used here: i) geolocated very high resolution images from each pilot site were used in the coregistration process to enhance geolocation accuracy in images from different missions, ii) different spectral indices were tested at each pilot site to obtain more reliable detection of the coastline at all sites and iii) measured topobathymetry data were used to obtain datum-based satellite shorelines and bathymetry. The accuracy and skill of those satellite products were assessed at several pilot sites in Spain. The results indicated high horizontal accuracy (RMSE < pixel size), with errors on the order of half of the pixel size (RMSE = 5.0 m and for Sentinel-2 and 18.8 m for Landsat5). Furthermore, the coastlines used here presented errors comparable to those obtained from the widely used open-source tool CoastSat. Time-series analysis using satellite-derived shorelines showed that coastal change processes can be detected at several temporal and spatial scales, such as short-term erosion and accretion events on a small beach, seasonal beach rotation, and long-term trends at local and regional scales. However, the results from satellite-derived bathymetry indicated that the quantitative assessment of the coastal morphology with 3D products is still limited. Some in situ measurements are necessary to obtain satellite data that represent site-specific conditions. However, the quantity of this auxiliary in situ measurements required to obtain reliable time series of satellite derived shorelines and bathymetry is significantly lower than the quantity required by traditional monitoring methods. The results are discussed, highlighting the gaps that need to be filled in the future so that satellite-derived products can be used in usual coastal change monitoring practices.

Mangrove development on a remote volcanic island in the South Atlantic

Sueste Bay, in the Fernando de Noronha archipelago (FNA), contains the only mangrove area among the oceanic islands of the South Atlantic. This work aims to reconstruct this mangrove's evolution during the Holocene based on a morphostratigraphic study integrated with palynological and multi-elemental geochemical data, temporally calibrated with radiocarbon dating. The data obtained indicated that, around 8000 to 7000 cal yr BP, well-developed Rhizophora and Laguncularia mangroves established over altered rocks of the Quixaba (phonolites, lamprophyres, basanites, trachyandesites and basalts) and Remédios (basanites, melilite and melanophelinites) Formation, under rising relative sea level, about 2 to 3 m below present. This period was the last record of Rhizophora in the FNA. From 6000 to 3600 cal yr BP, the lagoon system was eroded and significantly retrograded, under rising RSL during at least part of time, leaving clay pebbles scattered in the lower/upper shoreface deposit as the only record of its reworking. This process limited mud/mixed flats near the mouth of the Maceió River. Under a relative stability of RSL from 3600 cal yr BP to the present, a progradation of coastal facies, including beach/foredunes ridges, occurred and allowed the development of the modern lagoon system over swales between aeolian sand ridges. Mangroves were only observed during modern times but in environmental conditions very different from those of the previous occurrence. Indeed, Laguncularia coexists with several invasive plants within the narrow mixed flats associated with a small and almost filled tidal creek, whose siltation may be a product of the artificial damming of the Maceió River to supply public water to the archipelago. This study highlights the complex interactions between natural processes, sea-level changes, and human activities in shaping the coastal evolution of the Fernando de Noronha archipelago over the Holocene.

Beaches in a semi-insulated compartment: Engineering tools from the diffusion theory

Beaches can serve as a valuable asset to any community, which can gain a massive source of income from them; in fact, beach tourism is ever more frequently the essential target of countries, aimed at attracting foreign investment or exchange. In this frame, prediction of coastal evolution at large scales is very important for coastal management and first conceptual design. Management strategies, almost at the early stages of the projects, may likely involve numerical simulations, but they can be extremely laborious, computing demanding and intensely time-consuming especially when involving either wider coastal domain or longer time scales that basically encompasses the majority of coastal projects by now. Analytical solutions of the Diffusion Shoreline Equation (DSE) can be a valid alternative. In these frames, given the surprisingly good predictive capabilities, they can isolate essential features of the processes, making them more readily comprehended, and can avoid cumulative errors associated with the accuracy of computational time-stepping models. Nevertheless, the rather complex mathematical form makes their use extremely challenging and confines them in the realm of high mathematics. Ciccaglione et al. (2023) provided analytical solutions of the DSE for finite beaches bounded by outcrops of whatever length (bypassing or non-bypassing groin compartments). Differently from the other studies, the authors checked the applicability range of the solutions through the comparison with reliable numerical models; furthermore, using curve fitting analysis simple design tools were suggested to aid engineers in the practical applications. In this paper, a deep focus is given on the case of a bypassing groin compartment, and easy-to-use formulae are given to assess the lifetime of beach fill projects. A simple semi-theoretical solution is also given for the case of a compartment bounded by a very short groin, by introducing a “convective term” modelled via a Heavy-side function, H(x). The practical usefulness of this solution is proved through an application to the evolution of a real beach along Italy's Adriatic coast.

Identification and simulation the response of storm-induced coastal erosion in the China Yellow sea

Storm events have a significant impact on coastal topography, which can subsequently lead to coastal erosion and ecological deterioration. Traditional field measurements are affected by environmental factors and consume substantial resources, making it difficult to conduct large-scale terrain, hydrodynamic and other monitoring tasks. Significant challenges still remain to identify the response of coastal processes to storm events due to the lack of field measured data. In this study, the response of coastal morphodynamical variations to extreme storm events was simulated by the coupled XBeach and FVCOM models and the storm-induced coastal evolution was evaluated in the China Yellow Sea. The costal morphodynamical variations under different wind conditions were also quantified. The results reveal that erosion dominated the supratidal zone while accretion mainly occurred in the subtidal zone. Comparing the coastal morphology before and after the storm, we found the alongshore currents were the primary factors influencing sediment transport. The degree of coastal erosion and accretion shift was positively correlated with the wind speed and direction. The present nested model may serve as a valuable tool for predicting future coastal erosion and accretion, contributing to more scientifically informed coastal management decisions. The study also provides a scientific basis for understanding the response mechanism of coastal morphodynamical process to extreme storm events and coastline evolution under global change.

Model of Pleistocene geomorphological evolution in active Alpine neotectonics controlled margins in the western Mediterranean area: The case of SE Iberian Peninsula

At the northern tip of the Betic realm (SE Iberian Peninsula), some troughs (synclines) and elevations (anticlines) alternate, marking the present-day coastal lobed morphology of cape-bounded bays, where subsidence and uplift conditions prevailed, respectively. In this study, we were able to establish a clear coastal evolution. To this end, we considered the sedimentological and palaeoenvironmental conditions, the palaeogeographical reconstruction, and recent tectonics until Middle Pleistocene times (MIS 5) through the interpretation of onshore cores, raised marine deposits and geophysical profiles. In this regard, as reflected by both onshore and offshore information, there seems to be a stratigraphical gap from the end of the Pliocene to MIS 15 (Middle Pleistocene). In areas under uplift conditions, linked to tardive Alpine tectonics, the deposits of ancient shorelines and raised beaches were located at different post-depositional elevations, which were dated from odd MIS 15 to MIS 5 using amino acid racemization. Only deposits aged MIS 7 and MIS 5 are roughly at the present-day sea level or some meters above. In the troughs, which remain mostly as lagoons and salt marshes, subsidence did not allow the sedimentary record to be discerned. However, many borehole cores were recovered, attesting lagoonal, marsh, sabkha, or alluvial environmental conditions, which were usually unconnected from the sea. Micropaleontological and amino acid racemization dating revealed these cores to be of MIS15 to MIS5 age. Offshore seismic research revealed five erosive-bounded deposits that are stacked accretionary prisms corresponding to highstands between odd MIS 15 and MIS 5. In contrast, even MISs can be correlated to the erosive horizons that separated the seismic units, reflecting lowstands. In this regard, some bars, at a range of distances from the present-day coastline, protected wetlands from marine influence, allowing the development of diverse sub-environments under changing paleogeographical and paleoclimatological conditions.

Rapid mangrove expansion triggered by low river discharge episode in Nanliu river estuary, Beibu Gulf of China

Mangrove forest is a critical primary producer, biological habitat, and carbon sink in the subtropical-tropical coast zone, and the natural variation of mangrove coverage deserves study for a better understanding of the dynamics of mangrove coastal evolution. In this study, multispectral Landsat images from 1985 to 2018 are used to reconstruct the change in the coverage of mangrove (dominant species is Aegiceras corniculatum) and salt marsh (dominant species is Cyperus malaccensis) in the Nanliu River estuary. Tidal flat elevation measuring and 210Pb dating is used to study the substrate elevation when mangroves first colonize salt marsh. Historical temperature records, river discharge records, and the time series N/P concentration in sediment are analyzed. It is found that the mangrove forests have expanded rapidly in salt marsh since the mid-1980s. The change in factors such as accommodation space, cold event frequency, and nutrient supply cannot explain the origin of mangrove expansion. A low river discharge episode lasting for 8 years since 1986 is considered to have triggered the mangrove expansion in this area, as previously established salt marsh plants died due to germination restriction caused by high salinity and mangroves colonized the salt marsh habitat during this period. This case proves again that estuarine wetlands are very sensitive to salinity variation.

Geospatial techniques to determine Coastal geomorphology changes along the Cuddalore and Nagapattinam coast, Tamil Nadu, India

This study proposes to use geospatial techniques to assess coastal geomorphological changes along the southeast coast of India, from Cuddalore to Nagapattinam. The results will provide insights into regional morphology changes and will advance our understanding of coastal evolution, sea level variations and quaternary geomorphic processes. The coastal geomorphological units of the study area comprise of the coastal zone and an older deltaic plain. Most coastal zone features have developed through erosion, accretion and other natural processes. These features can be classified as depositional or erosional. By analyzing satellite imagery from 1980 to 2020, the study identified changes in coastal geomorphological features. This information can be used to locate mineral deposits, hydrocarbon locales, groundwater targets and sites for artificial recharge and saltwater intrusion mitigation. It can also affect coastal zone management decisions.