Anthropogenic microfibers, a ubiquitous environmental contaminant, can be categorized as synthetic, semisynthetic, or natural according to material of origin and production process. Although natural fibers, such as cotton and wool, originated from natural sources, they often contain chemical additives, including colorants (e.g., dyes, pigments) and finishes (e.g., flame retardants, antimicrobial agents, ultraviolet light stabilizers). These additives are applied to textiles during production to give textiles desired properties like enhanced durability. Anthropogenically modified "natural" and semisynthetic fibers are sufficiently persistent to undergo long-range transport and accumulate in the environment, where they are ingested by biota. Although most research and communication on microfibers have focused on the sources, pathways, and effects of synthetic fibers in the environment, natural and semisynthetic fibers warrant further investigation because of their abundance. Because of the challenges in enumerating and identifying natural and semisynthetic fibers in environmental samples and the focus on microplastic or synthetic fibers, reports of anthropogenic microfibers in the environment may be underestimated. In this critical review, we 1) report that natural and semisynthetic microfibers are abundant, 2) highlight that some environmental compartments are relatively understudied in the microfiber literature, and 3) report which methods are suitable to enumerate and characterize the full suite of anthropogenic microfibers. We then use these findings to 4) recommend best practices to assess the abundance of anthropogenic microfibers in the environment, including natural and semisynthetic fibers. By focusing exclusively on synthetic fibers in the environment, we are neglecting a major component of anthropogenic microfiber pollution. Environ Toxicol Chem 2022;41:822-837. © 2021 SETAC.
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