Drape Properties Research Articles

Estimating Cloth Simulation Parameters From Tag Information and Cusick Drape Test

AbstractIn recent years, the fashion apparel industry has been increasingly employing virtual simulations for the development of new products. The first step in virtual garment simulation involves identifying the optimal simulation parameters that accurately reproduce the drape properties of the actual fabric. Recent techniques advocate for a data‐driven approach, estimating parameters from outcomes of a Cusick drape test. Such methods deviate from standard Cusick drape tests, introducing high‐cost tools, which reduces practicality. Our research presents a more practical model, utilizing 2D silhouette images from the ISO‐standardized Cusick drape test. Notably, while past models have shown limitations in estimating stretching parameters, our novel approach leverages the fabric's tag information including fabric type and fiber composition. Our proposed model functions as a cascaded system: first, it estimates stretching parameters using tag information, then, in the subsequent step, it considers the estimated stretching parameters alongside the fabric sample's Cusick drape test results to determine bending parameters. We validated our model against existing methods and applied it in practical scenarios, showing promising outcomes. (see https://www.acm.org/publications/class-2012)

Fishing gear with enhanced drapability and biodegradability: Artificial, eco-friendly fibers inspired by the mussel byssus

Abandoned, lost, and discarded fishing gear (ALDFG) poses a global challenge for marine ecosystems because it results in the destruction of algal forests, the largest oceanic carbon dioxide sinks. Biodegradable polybutylene succinate (PBS), which has a tensile strength similar to that of nylon, has been suggested as a potential fishing-gear material. However, its slow degradation in the marine environment and limited drapability need to be addressed before it can be used in environmentally friendly fishing gear. Inspired by the mussel byssus, a thread-like holdfast known for its stiff yet extensible mechanical properties, we developed fishing gear using a mussel-byssus-mimetic fiber (artificial byssus fiber, ABf) structure. The ABf was composed of poly(butylene adipate-co-butylene terephthalate) (PBAT) fibers with favorable draping characteristics coated with mechanically resilient and PBS, which demonstrated sufficient toughness and draping properties for use in fishing gear. AB shows promise as a material for fishing-gear capable of mitigating issues related to ALDFG, especially given its marine degradability by microbial strains that degrade PBS and PBAT. Furthermore, it could serve as a substrate for ocean afforestation, given the improved settlement and growth of seaweed spores (Pyropia yezoensis) on AB. Overall, AB-based fishing gear is expected to enhance macroalgal forest conservation and expansion and facilitate marine carbon capture through marine afforestation.

Mechanical and in-use properties of nonwoven fabrics made of bicomponent microfilament PET/PA fibers

As nonwovens have advantages like low cost and tunable properties, their implementation to apparels can create advantages. Weakness of nonwoven fabrics for apparel applications arises from their low mechanical properties and drape. However, their properties can be designed by changing the raw materials and production methods. Bicomponent fiber spinning combined with hydroentangling can create advantages by forming microfilaments within the fabric structure, in this regard. Therefore, in this study, nonwoven fabrics of polyester:polyamide 6 (PET/PA6) bicomponent fibers exposed to hydroentangling were tested for their mechanical and in-use properties in order to reveal their usability as apparel fabrics. Results show that mechanical properties of samples reached to a certain level compared to a woven reference fabric. Also, their breathability properties are better than the woven competitor. However, bending and drape properties still require improvements to be used for leisure wear. Apparel models with lower drapes can be selected for nonwoven fabric applications.

Comparative evaluation of textiles for use in textile reinforced concrete

Textile reinforced concrete (TRC) offers many advantages over traditional, steel bar reinforced concrete. The biggest advantage is the corrosion resistance of textiles, which leads to a reduced minimum cover with concrete. This allows for significantly thinner concrete elements, which are also easier to shape because of the excellent draping properties of textiles. For producers of technical textiles there is a need for a quick and easy method to test their products for suitability for use in TRC. In this paper, such a method is proposed: Novel textiles can be evaluated by comparing their properties to those of existing textiles already in use in the construction industry. Three different characteristic values crucial to the suitability of textiles for use in TRC are identified: tensile stress–strain behavior and alkaline resistance of the textiles and the tensile stress–strain behavior of TRC components. For each characteristic value a test method is identified. To validate these test methods and to provide a database for future comparison, the tests are performed on three different impregnated biaxial non-crimp fabrics that are already approved for and used in TRC. These consist of a styrene butadiene rubber impregnated carbon fiber textile, an epoxy resin impregnated alkaline resistant glass textile and a polyvinyl alcohol fiber textile. From these validation tests, key figures that allow for a ranking of new textiles in comparison to the already available textiles are inferred; The tensile strength of the textiles ranges from 880 to 2900 MPa, the alkaline strength degradation is at maximum −0.17 %/day and the tensile strength of the TRC elements ranges from 770 to 2310 MPa. The comparison of these values with those of a new textile enables a quick initial evaluation of the suitability of the new textile for the use in TRC.

Comparison of the Silhouette of Virtual Clothes by Fabric Characteristics of Nylon Fabric for the Utilization of Virtual Clothes.

In this study, various nylon fabrics were investigated to measure the physical properties of the actual fabric using Kawabata systems and CLO fabric kits, and the correlation between the physical and drape properties of the fabric was statistically analyzed. Subsequently, the CLO fabric kit results were used as basic data for the CLO three-dimensional (3D) virtual clothing program, and the drapeability of the virtual fabrics was measured. The factors with the most significant effect on the drape properties were analyzed by comparing the drape measurement of the real fabrics through the variable measurement of various fabrics and correlation analysis with the drape properties, and attempts were made to reduce the difference between real fabrics and their virtual implementations. The correlation analysis results revealed that both the Kawabata system and CLO fabric kit results indicated that the bending and shear properties exhibited the highest correlation with the drape ratio. In addition, the comparison of the real and virtual fabric images revealed that they exhibited a similar morphology. Furthermore, the results confirmed that the difference between the real and virtual fabrics could be reduced as much as possible when the values measured using the Kawabata system and CLO fabric kit were converted into a database. Subsequently, the differences between virtual fabrics with various thicknesses were confirmed through CLO 3D simulation. The findings of this study are expected to be used as basic data for building fabric database.

Material characterisation of biaxial glass-fibre non-crimp fabrics as a function of ply orientation, stitch pattern, stitch length and stitch tension

Due to their high density-specific stiffnesses and strength, fibre reinforced plastic (FRP) composites are particularly interesting for mobility and transport applications. Warp-knitted non-crimp fabrics (NCF) are one possible way to produce such FRP composites. They are advantageous because of their low production costs and the ability to tailor the properties of the textile to the reinforcement and drape requirements of the application. Based on their specific production parameters, their draping properties can vary significantly. Draping simulations are used to predict the forming behaviour without relying on costly and time consuming trial and error experiments. However, these simulations require a broad material dataset to make accurate predictions. Previous studies have investigated the relationships between production parameters and drape behaviour only in isolation for a limited number of material parameters at a time. In this study, a comprehensive material characterisation is carried out. The influence of ply orientation, stitch pattern, stitch length and stitch tension on the tensile and bending properties and the friction, shear and drape behaviour of NCFs are investigated on a meso and macro scale. Furthermore, the inter-ply sliding phenomena in bias extension tests are analysed and the results of bias extension and picture frame tests are compared.

Recycled Polyester and Cotton Blended Siro Spun Yarns and Fabrics: A Sustainable and Eco-friendly Approach

ABSTRACT In this paper, we report the comparison of physical properties of 19.68 Tex (30 Nec)/1 Siro spun yarns and fabrics manufactured from 100% cotton, virgin polyester, and recycled polyester in 50:50 blend ratio with cotton fibers. Tensile analysis revealed that recycled polyester-cotton siro spun yarns exhibited comparable tensile strength to the virgin polyester-cotton yarns. The evenness and structural uniformity of the recycled polyester-cotton yarn was also equivalent to the polyester-cotton siro spun yarns. Plain weave (1/1) fabrics were manufactured from the obtained yarns. Recycled polyester-cotton blended fabrics depicted comparable tensile, tear, and ball bursting strength to the virgin polyester-cotton blended fabrics, and exhibited better wettability, air permeability, and were less prone to pilling when compared with the polyester-cotton blended fabrics. Recycled polyester-cotton fabrics also exhibited good drape properties and less shear stiffness in the Kawabata analysis when compared to their counterparts. Based on the results obtained, it may be safely concluded that the recycled polyester fibers can be used as an alternative to virgin polyester fibers in siro spun medium-count yarns and consequent fabrics.

Production of Fabrics with Etherified Jute Blended Yarns

Different fabrics were prepared by plain weaving with the blended yarns made of etherified jute fibre in the ratio of 50:50 with cotton, rayon and polyester. The physical properties of fabrics from blended yarns have been compared with those of cotton fabrics made with the same calculation 30 tex yarns. The mechanical properties of these fabrics were determined to monitor their serviceability in practical use and to ensure their suitability as jute blended cotton and synthetic fabrics. The softness and handling characteristics presented by the blending length and flexible firmness of the blended fabrics were much more comparable to that of the cotton fabrics with the indented fabric structure. The strength properties of etherified jute blended fabrics showed that the durability and serviceability of these fabrics was not much less than that of cotton fabrics due to any stress and deformation during use. It has also been observed that the blending of etherified jute with cotton, rayon, polyester or any other flexible fiber improves the draping properties of the fabrics made from it and in actual use these fabrics have almost the same bright look and firmness of cotton fabrics.

Numerical Simulation of the Mechanical Behavior of a Weft-Knitted Carbon Fiber Composite under Tensile Loading.

Knitted textiles are a popular reinforcement in polymer composites for their high drape properties and superior impact energy absorption, making them suitable for specific composite components. Nevertheless, limited attention has been paid to modeling the mechanical behavior of knitted fabric composites since knitted textiles generally offer lower stiffness and strength. This study presents a 3D finite element (FE) modeling of a precise geometrical model of weft-knitted carbon fiber thermoplastic composite to better understand its nonlinear mechanical behavior and interface damage mechanisms under tension. Toward this end, a representative volume element (RVE) of the weft-knitted fabric composite with periodic boundary conditions (PBCs) is generated based on actual dimensions. The validity of the textile RVE to represent the macroscopic behavior was evaluated prior to analyzing the composite. The effect of fiber tow/matrix debonding during tension on the mechanical behavior of the composite is investigated using the cohesive zone model (CZM). Finally, the predicted results of the mechanical behavior of the composite with and without considering the interface failure are compared with the experimental measurements. It is found that the fiber tow/matrix interfacial strength has a significant effect on the tensile performance of the knitted fabric composites, particularly when they are subjected to a large strain. According to the simulation results, the highest tensile performance of the composite is achieved when the interfacial debonding is prevented. However, considering the fiber/matrix debonding in the modeling is essential to achieve a good agreement with the experimental results. In addition, it is concluded that stretching the fabric before composite manufacturing can substantially increase the tensile stiffness of the knitted composite.

인공신경망을 이용한 드레이프성 예측

This study aims to propose a prediction model for the drape coefficient using artificial neural networks and to analyze the nonlinear relationship between the drape properties and physical properties of fabrics. The study validates the significance of each factor affecting the fabric drape through multiple linear regression analysis with a sample size of 573. The analysis constructs a model with an adjusted R² of 77.6%. Seven main factors affect the drape coefficient: Grammage, extruded length values for warp and weft (m_warp, m_weft), coefficients of quadratic terms in the tensile-force quadratic graph in the warp, weft, and bias directions (c_warp, c_weft, c_bias), and force required for 1% tension in the warp direction (f_warp). Finally, an artificial neural network was created using seven selected factors. The performance was examined by increasing the number of hidden neurons, and the most suitable number of hidden neurons was found to be 8. The mean squared error was .052, and the correlation coefficient was .863, confirming a satisfactory model. The developed artificial neural network model can be used for engineering and high-quality clothing design. It is expected to provide essential data for clothing appearance, such as the fabric drape.

Silicone oil based softeners including different additives

PurposeIn this study, which is divided into two parts, the silicone softeners having different properties and including different additives as glycerin, polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400) and polyethylene glycol 4000 (PEG 4000) (due to their high hydrophilic characters) are produced for the purpose of providing or developing the hydrophilic character, lubricity and filling properties of the emulsions. The paper aims to discuss this issue.Design/methodology/approachIn the first part of the study, the produced silicone emulsions were characterized and applied to the 100 percent cotton-knitted fabrics. In addition, the mechanical properties and whiteness degrees of the fabrics were also researched. In this part of the study, the effects of the produced silicone softeners on the comfort properties of the fabric samples were investigated by qualitative handle, hydrophility, contact angle, air permeability, thermal comfort and moisture management tests.FindingsThe results showed that while classic silicone application improved mechanical comfort properties of the samples such as the handle and drape properties, they worsened other thermal comfort properties as hydrophility, transfer or dispersion of the moisture, and air permeability. In addition, the thermal comfort properties about heat transfer of the fabric samples were not significantly affected by application of the silicone softeners. All results were affected from the producing recipe of the silicone softeners, and generally the usage of the additives had positive effect on the comfort results depending on the producing recipe (especially type of the silicone oil) of the silicone softeners.Research limitations/implicationsIn this study, the additives were used in single form; however, their dual or trio combinations and/or their different amounts can be used in the emulsions.Practical implicationsIn order to enhance the hydrophilic character, lubricity and filling properties of the silicone softeners, they could be produced by using appropriate additives.Originality/valueIn the literature, there were not any studies about the silicone softeners including different additives. So the authors can say that the contribution of the additives to the recipes of the silicone softeners is a novel approach.

Comparative analysis of drape characteristics of actually and virtually draped fabrics

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment.Design/methodology/approachFive different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties.FindingsDifferences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented.Research limitations/implicationsThere are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies.Originality/valueDrape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

Development and Characterisation of Nonwoven Fabrics for Apparel Applications

The cost of making apparel fabrics for garment manufacturing is very high because of their conventional manufacturing processes and new methods/processes are being constantly developed for making fabrics by unconventional methods. With the advancements in technology and the availability of the innovative fibre, durable nonwoven fabrics by using the hydroentanglement process that can compete with the woven fabrics in terms of their aesthetic and tensile properties are being developed. In the work reported here, the hydroentangled nonwoven fabrics were developed through a hybrid nonwoven manufacturing processes by using fibrillated Tencel® and bi-component (sheath/core) polyethylene/polyester (PE/PET) fibres, in which the initial nonwoven fabrics were prepared by the needle-punching method followed by hydroentanglement process carried out at optimal pressures of 50 to 250 bars. The prepared fabrics were characterised according to the British Standards (BS 3356:1990, BS 9237:1995, BS 13934-1:1999) and the attained results were compared with those for a standard plain-weave cotton, polyester woven fabric and commercially available nonwoven fabric (Evolon®). The developed hydroentangled fabrics showed better drape properties owing to their flexural rigidity of 252 mg.cm in the MD, while the corresponding commercial hydroentangled fabric displayed a value of 1340 mg.cm in the MD. Tensile strength of the developed hydroentangled fabrics showed an approximately 200% increase than the commercial hydroentangled fabrics. Similarly, the developed hydroentangled fabrics showed higher properties in term of air permeability, such as the developed hydroentangled fabric exhibited 448 mm/sec and Evolon fabric exhibited 69 mm/sec at 100 Pa pressure. Thus for apparel fabrics, the work combining the existing methods of nonwoven production, provides additional benefits in terms of cost, time and also helps in reducing the carbon footprint for the apparel fabric manufacture.

Development of a Universal Solar Energy Harvesting System Suited for Textile Integration Including Flexible Energy Storage

With the growing interest in smart textiles the need for a lightweight energy supply that is compatible with textile properties is increasing. Here we describe a proof of concept for a universal solar harvesting system which is scaled for the integration into clothing including flexible energy storage and flexible solar cells. The flexible solar cells show efficiencies of above 10 % and are integrated as individual strips in order to minimize the effect on the bending and draping properties of the textile. The integrated batteries are lithiumion based and include an electrolyte that guarantees safety when in proximity to the human body.

Analysis of the performance properties of knitted fabrics containing elastane

Purpose– Knitted fabrics containing elastane provide high level of comfort and ease of usage because of the elastic and drape properties over the body. Knitted fabrics respond to every movement of the body and return back to its original shape easily so they are used widely for apparel production. The most important properties required from the elastic knitted garments are wear comfort, fit, breathability and durability. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of elastane yarn count and ground yarn count on the performance properties of 12 single jersey knitted fabrics were analysed after dying.Design/methodology/approach– The research design for this study consists an experimental study. In all, 12 fabrics containing half plating and full plating elastane were produced using 30/1-40/1 Ne yarn counts. Bursting strength, stretch recovery, residual extension, air permeability, spirality and drape properties of fabrics were evaluated.Findings– As a result of study it was found a certain effect as the elastane amount and count changed. For all types of knitted fabrics, bursting strength values increased and fabric spirality values decreased as the elastane amount and elastane yarn count increased. Also it was found a significant relationship between elastane amount and count with air permeability, spirality, bursting strength and drape.Originality/value– As a result of the literature review, it was seen that the effects of elastane amount, elastane yarn count and fabric yarn count on the performance properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied broadly.

나일론 6 섬유의 감량가공 및 특성 연구

Weight loss treatment of a fiber leads an improvement of its handle and drape properties. Hydrolysis of a fiber is commonly known as a method to reduce its weight of 5-40%. Most of the studies on the weight loss treatment are mainly based on polyester fibers and there has been almost no study on the weight reduction of nylon fibers. In this study, however, in order to develop a use of nylon 6 fiber for the industrial applications such as toothbrush, underwear, carpet and more, weight loss treatment of a nylon 6 fiber was carried out. Under various treatment conditions, morphological analysis were done to observe the change in the structure of the surface and analysis. From the observation of formic acid treated nylon 6 fiber, there were many etched and deformed morphologies. Thermal and crystalline properties were analyzed to find the changes in the crystal structure caused by the weight loss treatment. There were little differences in the crystalline properties of nylon 6 fiber by formic acid treatment. Tensile strength of nylon 6 fiber decreases with acid concentration. The FITR peak intensity of the amide bond decreases with formic acid concentration.

Fabrication of highly conductive stretchable textile with silver nanoparticles

A method has been developed for the deposition of conductive metals onto fibers within textile structures. The resultant fabric exhibited full metal coverage with good adhesion to the fibers. As well as being conductive and extremely flexible with little effect on its handle and drape properties. In order to make a conductive fabric, cotton was first mercerized followed by immersion in poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride) solution. Silver nitrate was then reduced on the surface of the fabric which allowed formation of silver nanoparticles. Scanning electron microscopy studies of the conductive fabric confirmed the deposition of the polymer resulted in more uniform attachment of nanosilver to the surface of fibers. The fabric was then electroless plated to obtain a surface resistivity less than 0.2 Ω/square. This method can be used for woven, non-woven and knitted types of fabric. It can be applied on to the fibers before or after being made into a textile.

Investigating seamed woven fabric drape using experimental and virtual approaches

The aim of this study was to investigate the drape properties of seamed woven fabric using experimental and virtual approaches. Firstly, the influence of different seams on the fabric drape parameters was analyzed based on bending and draping experiments. Then, a preliminary drape simulation method for seamed fabric was presented using shell finite elements. The models with seams were simplified and separated into shell fabric partitions and seam partitions. The projection images of all models were extracted for calculating the drape coefficient and average radius. Through contrasting of drape profiles and correlate analysis of drape parameters, it shows that the drape properties between simulating and testing are very similar and correlated. Furthermore, their regression formulas of drape coefficient and average radius were given by regression analysis. The work has some helps for further study on evaluating and simulating the garment aesthetic performance in considering of seam’s mechanical properties.

Linen 혼방 편성물의 쾌적성 및 물성

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.

Grey Clustering Analysis of the Bending Creasing and Draping Properties of Bamboo Pulp/Cotton Interwoven Fabric

The properties of fifteen bamboo/cotton interwoven fabrics with different specifications were tested, such as static drape coefficient, dynamic drape coefficient, total bending rigidity, elastic modulus of bending, the angle of fast-elastic recovery, the angle of delayed-elastic recovery,etc. then the author took these properties index as clustering index, fifteen bamboo/cotton interwoven fabrics as clustering object, using the grey clustering analysis to evaluate the bending，creasing and draping properties synthetically. The results show that: The first grey type including 1#、2#、3#、4#、7#、8#、10#、11#, achieved optimal standard；The second grey type including 5#、6#、9#，achieved good standard；The Superscript text third grey type including 12#、13#、14#、15#，their bending properties、creasing properties and draping properties were poor.