Drape Parameters Research Articles

Ethnic Clothing Design Based on the Perspective of Fine Arts in the Context of Digitalisation

Abstract This study digitizes ethnic clothing design from the perspective of fine arts. The female human body data obtained is uploaded to the corresponding design platform of Style3D, and the design resources are precipitated to form a corresponding database. The virtual fabric drape parameters and virtual fabric control parameters are utilized to achieve 3D virtual fabric drape simulation. Combined with the results of the ethnic style recommendation configuration to obtain virtual samples and evaluate satisfaction. The results show that the bust, abdominal, and hip circumferences of the acquired female body data are within the ranges of 42-52cm, 40-57cm, and 47-49cm, respectively. The results of the draping simulation experiment showed a smooth state after 90 minutes for six different fabrics. The highest similarity between length and width between the upper and lower bodice and pants was found for lapel bodices (0.9) and slouchy bodices (0.88), respectively. These correspond to long gowns with large lapel bodices and pants. Designer B’s highest mean value of 4.67 indicates that designers are highly satisfied with the ethnic clothing design function of Style3D, as the mean values of the six styles are above 4. To sum up, this paper advocates for the application of ethnic clothing design using Style3D technology.

Drape of Composite Structures Made of Textile and 3D Printed Geometries

Applications of 3D printing in the fashion industry have continued to attract interest from academia and industry in order to improve and add functionalities to products. Among these applications, an interesting one is 3D printing on textile fabric. Composite structures created by 3D printing and textile fabric change a drape by improving or worsening its appearance. The scope of this work is to evaluate the effect of various 3D printed geometries on textile fabric regarding fabric drapes. The drape coefficient of the created composite structure is evaluated using a drape tester built according to EN ISO 9073-9. The results taken are compared with an algorithm developed for determining drape parameters and 3D form representation using color digital images and their image histograms. The measured values of the drape coefficient are close, with a minimal difference, up to 4%. The 3D printed patterns show a significant effect on the drape coefficient of textile fabrics by depicting another way to modify fabric drapes and create complex shapes by using less material. This can be seen as an advantage in the fashion industry where complex geometries can be added to textile fabrics, while changing fabric drape and product personalization and adding functionalities for garments and technical textiles.

Study of the Relationship between the Drape and Characteristics of Fabric Using Graphic Methodology and the AHP Method

This research aimed to increase knowledge of the various responses of drape parameters to different selected fabric properties. The principal goal is to optimise the fabric properties and obtain the desired draping effect for garment textiles by the graphic method and AHP method. The goal is to establish a model that reflects the impact of fabric properties, such as the bending rigidity in the warp, weft and skew directions, shear stiffness, weight, and thickness on drape parameters such as the drape coefficient (CD), number of folds (NF), folding depth index (FDI) and draped distance ratio (DDR).

Analysis of Polygonal Computer Model Parameters and Influence on Fabric Drape Simulation.

Contemporary CAD systems enable 3D clothing simulation for the purpose of predicting the appearance and behavior of conventional and intelligent clothing in real conditions. The physical and mechanical properties of the fabric and the simulation parameters play an important role in this issue. The paper presents an analysis of the parameters of the polygonal computer model that affect fabric drape simulation. Experimental research on physical and mechanical properties were performed for nine fabrics. For this purpose, the values of the parameters for the tensile, bending, shear, and compression properties were determined at low loads, while the complex deformations were analyzed using Cusick drape meter devices. The fabric drape simulations were performed using the 2D/3D CAD system for a computer clothing design on a disk model, corresponding to real testing on the drape tester in order to allow a correlation analysis between the values of drape parameters of the simulated fabrics and the realistically measured values for each fabric. Each fabric was simulated as a polygonal model with a variable related to the side length of the polygon to analyze the influence of the polygon size, i.e., mesh density, on the model behavior in the simulation. Based on the simulated fabric drape shape, the values of the areas within the curves necessary to calculate the drape coefficients of the simulated fabrics were determined in the program for 3D modelling. The results were statistically processed and correlations between the values of the drape coefficients and the optimal parameters for simulating certain physical and mechanical properties of the fabric were determined. The results showed that the mesh density of the polygonal model is an important parameter for the simulation results.

Fuzzy Logic Method for Predicting the Effect of Main Fabric Parameters Influencing Drape Phenomenon

Abstract The main aspect of this research was to predict the drape parameters and describe clearly the drape phenomenon using fuzzy logic method. Forecasting features allow manufacturers to save time and improve their productivity. The bending rigidity, (in warp, weft, and skew direction), shear rigidity, and weight of fabric samples were used as the key input variables for the model, whereas drape coefficient, drape distance ratio, folds depth index, and node number were used as output/response variables. The results show that changing the values of fabric parameters significantly affected the fabric drape and a representative correlation values were found between the experimental values and those calculated by the fuzzy system.

Psychophysical Testing of Virtual Fabric Drape

In this study, we tested five woven fabrics and observed their virtual drape behaviors. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were measured by Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system and simulations were created by O/Dev simulation software by Optitex. Drape behaviors of fabrics on a circular disc model were simulated and obtained virtual drape images were processed by image analysis software to calculate drape parameters. The purpose of this study is to understand the visual perception of people when looking at a fabric drape simulation. Which feature of drape is actually more significant to human eye? A psychophysical test was developed to understand human selectivity for drape geometry in virtual environment. Finally, 27 participants’ psychophysical test results were compared to calculated values. Participants found to be most sensitive to evenness and placement of folds while they were least sensitive to fold sizes.

Characterization of drape profile using Fuzzy-C-Mean (FCM) method

The overall objective of this study is to predict the behavior of the fabrics in details overlooked the drape phenomenon using Fuzzy-C-Mean (FCM) method. In this paper, the fabric properties which are the weight, the bending rigidity B in three direction: warp, weft and skew direction and the shear rigidity G were preselected according to their influence on the drape parameters (the drape coefficient DC, the node number NN, the fold depth index FDI and the drape distance ratio DDR). The result showed that the drape phenomenon was classified into three classes: low drape, average drape and high drape. The values of drape parameters were discussed in this work.

Cotton type fabric drape prediction

Fabric drape can be defined as a phenomenon of crease-forming when the fabric is put under pressure of its own mass, but without the influence of external forces. The drape ability of material has a direct influence on appearance and functionality of the garment. Recent findings in this field indicate that researchers have mostly been defining the phenomenon of draping on the basis of the mechanical characteristics of textiles. This paper presents the method that aims to to predict the draping parameters, where drape is defined in dependence of structure and construction parameters of woven fabric. Drape characteristics are tested on drape meter. Drape coefficient was determined by “cut weight” method. Variety of raw and finished fabrics for apparel are used, in order to explain how the changes of structural and constructional characteristics affect the woven fabric draping. Based on the results it is presented the equation that can be used to predict draping of woven fabric. The obtained results are aimed to provide drape parameters depending on the parameters of the structure and the construction of woven materials

A Simple Method for Measuring Fabric Drape Using Digital Image Processing

Drape is an important property, which affects the aesthetic appearance of fabrics used in garments in this study, a simple, easy and precise method for measuring fabric drape using the image processing technique was demonstrated. The study was conducted using a range of knitted and woven fabric samples. The fabrics were conventionally evaluated using the German drape meter instrument. The average drape coefficient of each fabric sample obtained through the conventional drape meter technique was compared statistically with that obtained through the new proposed digital technique. The results agreed with those obtained from the image processing technique with a high correlation coefficient (r=0.9970). Drapeability assessment has been done on the basis of changes in drape coefficient (DC), drape parameters, node parameters and structural parameters. Also, a method of expressing drape, node and structural parameters relating to the drape coefficient of fabrics has been developed. This method involves the area of polygon area. Two regression models were proposed for both conventional and digital image techniques and for all fabrics using the multiple linear regressions. The regression results were analyzed in terms of correlation coefficients. These regression models are shown to predict the drape coefficient accurately.

Investigating seamed woven fabric drape using experimental and virtual approaches

The aim of this study was to investigate the drape properties of seamed woven fabric using experimental and virtual approaches. Firstly, the influence of different seams on the fabric drape parameters was analyzed based on bending and draping experiments. Then, a preliminary drape simulation method for seamed fabric was presented using shell finite elements. The models with seams were simplified and separated into shell fabric partitions and seam partitions. The projection images of all models were extracted for calculating the drape coefficient and average radius. Through contrasting of drape profiles and correlate analysis of drape parameters, it shows that the drape properties between simulating and testing are very similar and correlated. Furthermore, their regression formulas of drape coefficient and average radius were given by regression analysis. The work has some helps for further study on evaluating and simulating the garment aesthetic performance in considering of seam’s mechanical properties.

A principal component analysis (PCA) method for predicting the correlation between some fabric parameters and the drape

Abstract A new method for predicting correlation between fabric parameters and the drape is developed. This method utilises a Principal Component Analysis (PCA) of intercorrelated influencing parameters (bending rigidity, weight, thickness) and the drape parameters (drape coefficient and the node number). This paper describes the PCA procedure and presents the similarities and contrasts between variables.

A Study on the Drape Profile Analysis of the Apparel Textiles and 3D Virtual Textiles using a 3D Digital Clothing Software

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

Prediction of drape profile of cotton woven fabrics using artificial neural network and multiple regression method

Fabric drape is one of the most important factors which affect the graceful appearance of the garment. The drape coefficient is the widely used parameter to describe fabric drape but it needs other parameters to explain the fabric behavior. In this study, we have investigated the relationship between the fabric drape parameters such as drape coefficient, drape distance ratio, fold depth index, amplitude and number of nodes and low stress mechanical properties. Drape parameters were tested on a specially developed instrument based on a digital image processing technique and the low stress mechanical properties were tested by the Kawabata evaluation system. Then the drape parameters were predicted by constructing models using multiple regressions method and feed-forward back-propagation neural network technique. Simple equations are derived using regressions method to predict the five shape parameters of drape profile from the low stress mechanical properties. It is observed that bending, shear and aerial density affect the drape parameters most whereas the tensile and compression have little effect on the drape parameters.

Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds , Dd and Dr , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics). In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id , express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds , Dr , D200 and Dd . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

A Quantitative Fabric Drape Evaluation System Using Image-Processing Technology, Part 2: Effect of Fabric Properties on Drape Parameters

Abstract A new quantitative fabric drape evaluation method using image-processing technology was published in Part 1 and submitted to the International Organization for Standardization as a revised international standard. In this research, the effects of fabric properties on drape parameters have been examined using the new drape evaluation system to verify the new method. Drape parameters include the number of drape nodes, the amplitude of the drape wave, and drape wavelength, as well as drape ratio (coefficient). The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was used to measure the mechanical properties of 60 woven fabric samples. Through correlation analysis, we found that tensile, bending, and shear properties of fabrics are closely related to each drape parameter. Some regression equations were derived to predict the drape ratio, the number of drape nodes, and the wave amplitude from the KES fabric properties. In all regression models, the bending hysteresis (2HB) of a fabric and its combined value with fabric weight (2HB/W) were observed to be the most significant factors.

Prediction of Fabric Drape Behaviour using Finite Element Method

In this study, an attempt has been made to predict the drape profile of woven fabrics using finite element analysis. The finite element method has been used in the prediction of structural instability and post buckling behaviour. The drape parameters like Drape coefficient, Drape distance ratio, Fold depth index, Amplitude to radius ratio and Number of nodes predicted by finite element analysis were correlated with those measured by Digital Image Processing method. The correlation between digital image processing method and finite element analysis proves to be very good. In all cases, R2 value is found to be higher than 0.8. In particular maximum correlation (R2= 0.91) is found in case of drape coefficient, because it is based on the project area of draped fabric in both the methods.

Features of Conventional Static and New Dynamic Drape Coefficients of Woven Silk Fabrics

Conventional static and new dynamic drape coefficients of silk woven fabrics are examined precisely to distinguish those features of each classified fabric by its yarn structure using our regression equations. We find that Shantung has large values of static drape coefficient D, and small node number n, revolving drape increase coefficient D,., and dynamic drape coefficient with swinging motion Dd. Chirimen is characterized by large values of Dr and Dd. Georgette has small values of revolving drape coefficient at 200 rpm, D200. Habutae has relatively large values of Ds and small n, and Dechine has relatively large values of Dr and Dd, but Fujiginu has no peculiar features. The differences between Fujiginu, Dechine, and Georgette become clear from the discriminant analysis, using the five drape parameters as variables. New dynamic drape coefficients are more useful for characterizing each classified silk fabric.

Changes of Static- and Dynamic- Drape Coefficients of Polyester-fiber Woven Fabrics by Weight Reduction in Sodium Hydroxide Solution

The effect of weight reduction on static- and dynamic- drape coefficients of polyester-fiber fabrics was studied precisely using 2 sets of fabric samples, one of which had various weave densities of weft yarns. Following conclusions were obtained: (1) Node number; n, the revolving drape increase coefficient; Dr, and the dynamic drape coefficient at swinging motion; Dd, increase with the increase of weight reduction ratio, and saturate around the ratio of 23%. (2) Static drape coefficient; Ds, and the revolving drape coefficient at 200rpm; D200, decrease with the increase of ratio, however, the former also saturates around 20%. (3) The effect of yarn weave density at the same weight reduction appears clearly on Dd, D200, and Dr, and these drape parameters increase with the increase in yarn weave density.