Drape Measurement Research Articles

Comparison of the Silhouette of Virtual Clothes by Fabric Characteristics of Nylon Fabric for the Utilization of Virtual Clothes.

In this study, various nylon fabrics were investigated to measure the physical properties of the actual fabric using Kawabata systems and CLO fabric kits, and the correlation between the physical and drape properties of the fabric was statistically analyzed. Subsequently, the CLO fabric kit results were used as basic data for the CLO three-dimensional (3D) virtual clothing program, and the drapeability of the virtual fabrics was measured. The factors with the most significant effect on the drape properties were analyzed by comparing the drape measurement of the real fabrics through the variable measurement of various fabrics and correlation analysis with the drape properties, and attempts were made to reduce the difference between real fabrics and their virtual implementations. The correlation analysis results revealed that both the Kawabata system and CLO fabric kit results indicated that the bending and shear properties exhibited the highest correlation with the drape ratio. In addition, the comparison of the real and virtual fabric images revealed that they exhibited a similar morphology. Furthermore, the results confirmed that the difference between the real and virtual fabrics could be reduced as much as possible when the values measured using the Kawabata system and CLO fabric kit were converted into a database. Subsequently, the differences between virtual fabrics with various thicknesses were confirmed through CLO 3D simulation. The findings of this study are expected to be used as basic data for building fabric database.

Processing Characterization of Sisal/Epoxy Prepregs

Quality control to obtain composite laminates is frequently applied to synthetic fibers/epoxy prepregs. The gel time test, resin, volatiles and fiber content, drape measurement and tack tests together with water absorption capacity are methods currently employed. However, for natural fibers prepregs there is a gap in the literature, which makes their application difficult. Thus this work will investigate sisal fibers, which have low cost, high biodegradability and low specific weight, following the common methods to manufacture composites from natural fibers/epoxy prepregs. First, the prepregs were prepared by hand lay-up, aligning the fibers with epoxy, keeping 15% by weight content of fiber. After the quality control characterization, 3 mm thickness composite was prepared by using a press, and tensile tests and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were applied. As a result, the resin fraction values and the solid content of the matrix showed little variation between the different samples. The natural fibers prepregs absorbed water quickly in the initial stage until reaching the saturation level. The NaOH-treated sisal/epoxy prepreg had a tension of 71.06 ± 8.28 kPa for the tack test and tensile strength of 69.24 ± 11.69 MPa. Finally, the NaOH-treated sisal 15 wt%/epoxy resulted in composites with a better performance than the neat epoxy resin. There was good adhesion between the fibers and matrix, as confirmed by SEM and mechanical tests.

Image processing based drape measurement of fabrics using circular Hough transformation

The drape behaviour of fabric is regarded as an aesthetic property, especially in the apparel and home textile industries. It has an influence on how well the appearance of a fabric in the end use. Fabric drape testing instrument developed by Cusick has been commonly used for the objective measurement of fabric drape behaviour. The device and the classic cut-and-weigh procedure is still the standard method of measuring drape. This method needs consumables and skilled operator for drawing, cutting, and weighing operations. To eliminate the disadvantages of this conventional system, image processing algorithm based on the Circular Hough Transform is developed to calculate the drape coefficient of fabrics in this study. Various woven and knitted fabrics were tested by both the conventional and the developed image processing methods. Drape results obtained from both systems represented a very strong relationship with a correlation coefficient of 0.99. As a result, fast, accurate and robust objective fabric drape test method has been developed.

Study of Fabric Movement and Influenced of Drape Measurement Based on Image Processing Using MATLAB

Generally, Drape meter for assessment of fabric drape is used in textile industry. In this paper, Image processing technique for measuring drape profile of apparel fabric has been studied and developed using MATLAB as well as modeled the fabric movement influenced of the fabric strength fort a certain mass. A modified method based on conventional drape meter was researched to determine drape parameter. Drape coefficient was selected to compare the conventional result (a standard device used in industry based on SNI ISO 08- 1511- 2004) and image processing result. In this research, a very good correlation has been found both conventional and image processing technique.

Optimization of fabric drape measurement based on 3D model

Optimization of fabric drape measurement based on 3D model

Method of Drape, Appearance and Comfort Measurements

Depending on the type of garment to be designed, designers, developers, and retailers are aware of and put forward certain requirements for the implementation of an appropriate level of quality. But ultimately the consumer is the one who decides whether the product meets his individual requirements. There are many different standardized textile testing methods, as well as various subjective assessment methods for hand feel and wearing comfort occurs. The observations that the analysis of a product has to be complex has become increasingly widespread. The aim of the research is to formalize and practically use the conceptual method of drape, appearance and comfort measurements.

A Study on the Fabric Drape Evaluation Using a 3D Scanning System Based on Depth Camera with Elevating Device

Abstract Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer’s movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough. Keywords : fabric, drape, 3D scanning, depth camera, elevating device

Fabric objective measurement and drape

This issue of Textile Progress reviews the origins of fabric objective measurement through its research and development phases to its current use in research and industry. It then examines, in greater detail, the use of fabric objective measurement (FOM) methods for the measurement and prediction of fabric drape. Such prediction has become increasingly important in recent times, due to the push from the fashion industry for accurate three-dimensional (3-D) simulation and animation of apparel in its various forms, to allow fashion designers to visually prototype their garment creations without the need for the tedious and time-consuming steps involved in real-garment prototyping. The demand for accurate 3-D simulation and animation is occurring in the face of an ever-increasing variety of fabric types, which means that drape measurement methods must become more sensitive and more widely applicable than has been the case to date. The authors, in the light of this review and their own research experiences with fabric drape, offer the view that the measurements taken by existing methods of FOM and drape are unlikely to provide the accuracy and wide applicability required for realistic on-screen evaluation of apparel, not least because in a garment, fabric is neither draped nor supported horizontally in the way that the fabric is configured in the test methods.

Five years follow-up of the Ready for Child trial

In Australia, postpartum haemorrhage (PPH) occurs in 6.8–9.2% of all births, with variation between states. Australian and overseas data suggest the rates of PPH and associated morbidity are increasing, and that further research and improved management of the third stage of labour, including estimation of blood loss, are required. Australian clinicians tend to estimate third stage blood loss visually, which under estimates blood loss which can lead to an under-diagnosis of PPH and poor identification of women at risk of complications from anaemia. Anaemia associated with third stage blood loss significantly contributes to serious postnatal health complications and maternal mortality. A calibrated blood collection drape has been found to be more accurate for measuring third stage blood loss when compared to the visual method and this has led to World Health Organisation endorsement. The acceptability of the blood collection drape however has not been tested, nor has the accuracy of Australian midwives visual estimations of blood loss when compared to the drape measurement. We are testing the accuracy and acceptability of a calibrated blood collection drape in the Australian setting. Data will be collected in the birth suite setting using blood loss estimates from 75 vaginal births. During phase one of the study (50 births), the drape will be placed under the woman by the midwife researcher and blinded to the midwife. The drape measurement will be recorded bythe researcher. The blood in the drape will then be estimated by the midwife using standard methods; either visual or weighing after the bloodhas been removed from thedrape.Midwives’ estimations will be compared to the drape measurements via statistical analysis, measuring interclass correlation and Kappa statistics. During phase two of the study (25 births) midwives will be asked to use the drape and complete a survey focussing on acceptability. Study results will be presented at the conference.

The BLEED study: Testing an innovative drape that measures third stage blood loss

In Australia, postpartum haemorrhage (PPH) occurs in 6.8–9.2% of all births, with variation between states. Australian and overseas data suggest the rates of PPH and associated morbidity are increasing, and that further research and improved management of the third stage of labour, including estimation of blood loss, are required. Australian clinicians tend to estimate third stage blood loss visually, which under estimates blood loss which can lead to an under-diagnosis of PPH and poor identification of women at risk of complications from anaemia. Anaemia associated with third stage blood loss significantly contributes to serious postnatal health complications and maternal mortality. A calibrated blood collection drape has been found to be more accurate for measuring third stage blood loss when compared to the visual method and this has led to World Health Organisation endorsement. The acceptability of the blood collection drape however has not been tested, nor has the accuracy of Australian midwives visual estimations of blood loss when compared to the drape measurement. We are testing the accuracy and acceptability of a calibrated blood collection drape in the Australian setting. Data will be collected in the birth suite setting using blood loss estimates from 75 vaginal births. During phase one of the study (50 births), the drape will be placed under the woman by the midwife researcher and blinded to the midwife. The drape measurement will be recorded bythe researcher. The blood in the drape will then be estimated by the midwife using standard methods; either visual or weighing after the bloodhas been removed from thedrape.Midwives’ estimations will be compared to the drape measurements via statistical analysis, measuring interclass correlation and Kappa statistics. During phase two of the study (25 births) midwives will be asked to use the drape and complete a survey focussing on acceptability. Study results will be presented at the conference.

Fabric and Garment Drape Measurement - Part 2

Fabric and garment drape were compared using an alternative drape measurement system based on an image analysis technique. Garment drape was investigated using dresses suspended on a mannequin. A graphical user interface was developed to carry out the image analysis and to calculate drape values identifying and determining 21 parameters. A range of fabrics including knitted, woven and nonwoven fabrics were compared in terms of FAST properties, drape coe±cient and drape values. Visual assessment of the fabric range was carried out in terms of drape amount and preference. Low agreement was found between individuals with regard to preferred drape amount and high agreement with respect to actual drape amount. Nonwovens were found of better preference over some traditional fabrics. Most of the drape values of fabric and garment were found to have poor correlations.

Investigation of drape and crease recovery behaviors of woven fabrics produced from centipede yarns having different parameters

In this research, the effect of centipede yarn production parameters – band yarn count and chain number – on drape and crease recovery behaviors of woven fabrics produced with these yarns were investigated. Polyester centipede yarns were produced on a Crochet machine with three different count (150, 300 and 600 denier) band yarns and three different chain numbers (10, 12 and 14 chain/cm). The centipede yarns were used as filling in the woven fabric construction. Drape coefficients of the fabrics were calculated from the drape measurements and the crease recovery angles of the fabrics were measured in the weft and warp directions. According to the analysis of variance results, it was proved that the drape and crease recovery behaviors of the woven fabrics from centipede yarns were affected by the centipede yarn structural parameters. Drape coefficients and crease recovery angles in weft and warp directions of the fabrics increased with the selection of higher chain numbers and coarser band yarns. Also correlations were determined between centipede yarn bending length, yarn-to-yarn friction and measured physical behaviors of the fabrics. The results of this study could provide researchers with information on how to determine the centipede yarn structural parameters for producing woven fabrics of centipede yarns with desired aesthetics and functionality.

Fabric and Garment Drape Measurement - Part 1

This paper aims to make a comprehensive review of measurement methods developed for evaluating fabric and garment drape. Drapemeters used for evaluating drapeability since Pierce's bending length tester are reviewed. Parameters proposed for measuring drapeability are also considered. The authors propose that using flat fabric methods does not accurately reflect the drape of fabrics when worn. The paper is a pre-cursor to a new image analysis technique which will be reported in Part 2.

A new method in fabric drape measurement and analysis of the drape formation process

In this paper we present the Sylvie three-dimensional (3D) Drape Tester, developed for fabric drape measurements, and its special auxiliary device that exerts dynamical impact on fabrics during draping. In addition, a new draping characteristic, namely the Drape Unevenness Factor, was defined to describe the evenness of the shape of draped textile material numerically. Three special cotton fabrics were woven exclusively for this work. The three fabrics differ only in the twist direction of their weft yarns. The effect of twist directions in woven fabrics and the influence of the applied dynamical impact on drape test results were analyzed. Based on the test results, we also analyze the process of drape formation, offering proposals for modification of fabric behavior models to contribute to better fabric simulations.

A hybrid evolutionary algorithm for tuning a cloth-simulation model

Abstract Textile simulation models are notorious for being difficult to tune. The physically based derivations of energy functions, as mostly used for mapping the characteristics of real-world textiles on to simulation models, are labour-intensive and not guarantee satisfactory results. The extremely complex behaviour of textiles requires additional adjustment over a wide-range of parameters in order to achieve realistic real-life behaviour of the model. Furthermore, such derivations might not even be possible when dealing with mass-spring particle system-based models. Since there is no explicit correlation between the physical characteristics of textiles and the stiffnesses of springs that control a model’s behaviour, this remains an unresolved issue. This paper proposes a hybrid evolutionary algorithm (EA), in order to solve this problem. The initial parameters of the model are written in individual’s genes, where the number of genes is predefined for different textile types in order to limit the search-space. By mimicking the evolution processes, the EA is used to search the stability domain of the model to find a set of parameters that persuasively imitate the behaviour of a given real-world textile (e.g. silk, cotton or wool). This evaluation is based on the drape measurement, a characteristic often used when evaluating fabrics within the textile industry. The proposed EA is multi-objective, as textile drape is analysed using different quantifications. Local search is used to heuristically improve convergence towards a solution, while the efficiency of the method is demonstrated in comparison to a simple EA. To the best of our knowledge, this problem is being solved using an EA for the first time.

솔기 유형이 직물의 드레이프성에 미치는 영향

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

Enhancing accuracy of drape simulation. Part I: Investigation of drape variability via 3D scanning

The objective of this two part paper is to present a method of enhancing accuracy of fabric drape simulation using commercially available software. In Part I, we report results of an investigation of drape variability for a set of fabrics having varied mechanical properties, an essential step in defining accuracy for drape simulation. Results illustrate that fabric drape behaviour is highly variable and thus provide no single drape configuration to target with simulation. Development of a revolutionary method for capturing drape of actual fabrics and measuring that drape in a virtual three-dimensional (3D) environment is also presented. The method allows identical drape measurement processes to be implemented for actual and simulated fabrics and provides opportunity for use of additional measures to assess fabric drape in three dimensions. The accomplishments presented in this paper are utilized to demonstrate, in Part II, development of a relationship that enhances realism of particle model simulations generated using the commercial drape simulation software.

A sub-pixel stereo matching algorithm and its applications in fabric imaging

In this paper, we describe a sub-pixel stereo matching algorithm where disparities are iteratively refined within a regularization framework. We choose normalized cross-correlation as the matching metric, and perform disparity refinement based on correlation gradients, which is distinguished from intensity gradient-based methods. We propose a discontinuity-preserving regularization technique which utilizes local coherence in the disparity space image, instead of estimating discontinuities in the intensity images. A concise numerical solution is derived by parameterizing the disparity space with dense bicubic B-splines. Experimental results show that the proposed algorithm performs better than correlation fitting methods without regularization. The algorithm has been implemented for applications in fabric imaging. We have shown its potentials in wrinkle evaluation, drape measurement, and pilling assessment.

Drape simulation of woven fabrics using a mass-spring system

In this paper, a mass-spring system is used to predict the draping behavior of woven fabrics. The material properties important to fabric draping are measured from the Kawabata system and the experimental data are incorporated into the simulation to calculate internal forces, based on which the draping behavior of particular types of woven fabrics is dynamically demonstrated. The hysteresis behavior in mechanical tests of a certain fabric is displayed virtually by calculating the internal restoration forces of the system. To evaluate the validity of the method, both the virtual drape measurement and the real drape measurement are performed to compare the same drape attributes derived from the two measurements. The simulation results and the experimental data are in good agreement.

Evaluation of drape characteristics in fabrics

PurposeTo provide researchers with the details of developments in instruments to measure fabric drape and review the literature related to fabric drape.Design/methodology/approach – In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in investigating the aesthetic behavior of fabrics due to the developments in objective evaluation techniques. To understand drape behavior, it is essential to know how drape is measured quantitatively. This paper reviews research related to drape characteristics of fabrics, two‐dimensional instruments and analysis of drape by measuring stiffness, three‐dimensional instruments developed to measure drape, fabric mechanical properties and their influence on drape measurement, and the latest developments in the field including image analysis, the dynamic drape tester and other related research.Findings – Many instruments for measuring drape have been developed including the earliest that assessed stiffness of fabrics, later versions of drape meters and recent innovative instruments for capturing complex drape information. Even though extensive detail for simple geometric forms such as circles and squares can be provided by the newest methods, measurement of the drape characteristics of complex forms needs the consideration of researchers to extend the work on drape measurement to garments. It was also noted that there are some contradictory conclusions regarding the properties influencing fabric drape.Originality/value – This paper is offered as a concise reference for individuals beginning research in the area of fabric drape.