Development Of Textile Products Research Articles

Optimising Textile Biomaterial Selection for Sustainable Product and Circular Design: Practical Guidelines for a Greener Future

The article endeavours to establish improved design practices in the development of textile products and explore the utilisation of sustainable materials in the future. Through a comprehensive literature review, valuable information and data were gathered to reflect upon and gain essential knowledge about textile biomaterials. The study aims to address the question of what new skills designers need to acquire in order to effectively select these materials for their projects. Subsequently, by studying and characterising various materials such as biopolymers from the polyester group, natural fibres and next-generation materials, a broader, more robust and clearer understanding of this emerging materiality was achieved. In conjunction with the principles of Design for Sustainability, the study further integrates the concepts of circular economy and bioeconomy, encompassing the extended product life cycle, material flows, dematerialization (recycling and reuse) and judicious use of raw materials. This research has identified critical linkages between material attributes that can significantly influence material selection in the design of a product development process. These insights are pivotal in guiding designers towards informed and pragmatic decision-making, facilitating sustainable and forward-thinking design practices for textile biomaterials. Overall, this article offers valuable insights and practical guidance for designers seeking to incorporate sustainable biomaterials in their projects, thus fostering a more environmentally conscious and innovative approach to textile product development.

Peningkatan Teknik Pounding Terinspirasi Happa-Zome dalam Kegiatan Pembuatan Tekstil Ramah Lingkungan di PPSA “Taruna Yodha” Sukoharjo

This community service is carried out with the participation of PPSA (orphanage) Taruna Yodha in Sukoharjo, Central Java. By creating textile products, the activity that incorporates an eco-friendly production process inspired by the Japanese Happa-zome technique (manual leaf-printing decoration technique) is chosen and improved to motivate environmental awareness while strengthening the entrepreneurial capacity of the beneficiaries. The service program is conducted by (in)direct presentation and mentoring, a participatory and iterative process from the beginning to the end. Within the program, design survey activity in the form of exploring nature's potential involves introducing the surrounding natural environment while collecting leaf material. The results are; (1) Providing environmental awareness for beneficiaries through textile-making, (2) the Happa-zome technique for interior textile product development, (3) creating an Entrepreneurial program including story-making and online marketing strategy

Adaptation of Aipan motifs for development of textile products using different embroidery stitches

Aipan art of the state (Uttarakhand) has been undergoing transition where its application in original composition has been declined owing to social and economic changes now-a-days. There is need to explore possibilities for the conservation of this art form via other artistic media for future generations. The reason for using traditional motifs in textiles is to keep our designs or motifs alive. Various attempts have been made in this regard by different agencies to preserve Aipan design in the form of cards, paintings, stickers etc. Besides this, work has also been undertaken in the direction of adaptation of Aipan designs to create design base for application in textile designing through different techniques. So an effort was done to add another dimension in the application of Aipan designs on textiles, the present study was planned. The effort was targeted towards finding the possibility of applying Aipan designs on textile articles utilizing the hand embroidery. Aipan motifs/designs were adapted for center design and border design. Total thirty motifs / designs were developed keeping in mind their suitability for articles like cushion cover, file folder and wall hanging. Developed design sheets were subjected to visual evaluation for selection of one best design in each category by the panel of thirty respondents to find out the suitability of the developed designs. Finally three articles were prepared by using selected designs and these prepared articles were highly appreciated by the respondents.

Ekspresi Warna Ecoprint Daun Jati (Tectona grandis) Pada Katun Primissima dengan Mordan Tawas, Tunjung dan Kapur

The availability of abundant natural materials in Indonesia strongly supports the development of textile products, one of which is natural coloring which can be obtained from natural materials such as teak leaves. Teak leaves contain natural anthocyanin pigments that can be used as environmentally friendly textile dyes. Transfer of pigment to the fabric can be done using the ecoprint technique, which requires a mordant for the color binding process to prevent it from being easily separated from the fabric. The purpose of the research to determine the color expression of teak leaf ecoprints with mordant alum, tunjung and calcium dioxide on primissima cotton fabric and to determine the effect of variations in boiling time during mordanting on the color expression of teak leaf ecoprints. The research was carried out experimentally using the ecoprint steam technique to transfer colors and motifs into the fabric. This study used three types of mordant substances, there are: alum, tunjung and calcium dioxide with each concentration of 50g/l with variations in boiling time for mordanting: 20 minutes, 40 minutes and 60 minutes and three replications in each treatment. The ecoprint technique applied is steaming for 80 minutes. The results showed that the color expression produced by the alum mordant was dominated by yellow, the color produced from the tunjung mordant was dominated by black and the dye produced by quicklime was dominated by brown. The natural motif of teak leaves can be printed well on primissima cotton. The variation of boiling time during mordanting in this study did not produce differences in color expression because there was no variation in the concentration of the mordant substance.

Oil Palm Empty Fruit Bunches as Raw Material of Dissolving Pulp for Viscose Rayon Fiber in Making Textile Products.

The creative fashion industry produces several textile products that play an important role in the national economy. In various countries, this industry has continued to grow along with the strong flow of information technology and e-commerce. The development of textile products for fashion is very dynamic and competitive. Competition is not only about price, but also the quality of organic/synthetic materials, the comfort provided, and designs that change every 4–6 months. Recently, creative fashion not only relies on natural and synthetic polymer-made fibers but also biomass-based waste materials. Therefore, this study aims to manufacture textile products from biomass-based waste materials that can be applied to the creative fashion industry. Two types of raw materials from oil palm empty fruit bunches (EFB), namely, whole-empty fruit bunches (WEFB) and stalk-empty fruit bunches (SEFB), are used as an excellent innovation of rayon viscose fiber (RVF), a noncotton organic yarn capable of providing a solution to the 99% import of global cotton needs. This is expected to increase competitiveness, as well as the added value of palm oil products and their derivatives. The process of manufacturing DP chemically includes prehydrolysis, cooking, bleaching to dissolve the lignin and noncellulosic materials as well as isolation to purify POEFB fiber. Furthermore, DP testing is carried out to determine product quality and compare it with the national product standards. The results show that the alpha-cellulose content reaches >94% with variations in the active alkali of 18%, 20% and 24%. This implies that the WEFB and SEFB are used to fulfill the first requirements of the national standard (SNI 938:2017). The WEFB with an active alkali variation of 24% meets the SNI standard for rayon pulp with a value of S10 = 3.07 and S18 = 7.14%, while all variations of SEFB show opposite results. The use of active alkali at 24% had a brighter color than between 18% and 20%. Additionally, the fiber density of WEFB appears to be higher than that of SEFB. These results correlate positively with DP prepared using 24% alkali as the optimum treatment for all products, as well as the morphological observations performed with scanning electron microscopy (SEM), which shows that WEFB fixated fiber had a larger diameter than SEFB.

Sustainable profiled poly(lactic acid) multifilaments with high moisture management performance for textiles

Sustainable poly(lactic acid) multifilaments are a new type of biodegradable fibers that have gained increasing attention in textile product development. However, low moisture management performance has hindered their application in high added-value textile products such as functional garments and sportswear. In this work, profiled poly(lactic acid) multifilaments with “+” cross-section and “Y” cross-section were developed by the melt spinning process in order to improve their moisture management properties. The cross-sectional and longitudinal morphologies of the produced profiled poly(lactic acid) multifilaments were first examined and their non-circularity degrees were calculated. The moisture-absorbing and fast-drying properties of both the poly(lactic acid) multifilaments and knitted fabrics, including vertical wicking, in-plane wicking, water absorption and evaporation, and water vapor transmission were then evaluated, and the effects of fiber cross-section shape and yarn texturing were analyzed. The results show that the moisture management performances of the knitted fabrics made with profiled poly(lactic acid) multifilaments are significantly improved when compared with those of the fabric made with circular cross-section poly(lactic acid) multifilaments. The results also show that moisture management performances of the knitted fabrics made with profiled poly(lactic acid) multifilaments are comparable or even better than those of the fabrics made of polyester multifilaments. The study suggests that poly(lactic acid) fibers can be applied for the development of textile products with high added value and substitute the large amounts of petroleum-based PET fiber in apparel end-use.

Structure and properties of bast fiber of Alchornea Davidii Franch based on chemical alkali degumming and biological enzyme degumming

In this work, the effects of degumming treatment on the structure and properties of OS-BADF were discussed. Alkali degumming and biological enzyme degumming were used to obtain AD-BADF and BED-BADF respectively. Spinnability index, thermal property, macromolecular structure, bending property and antibacterial property of OS-BADF (Original Sample of Bast Fiber of Alchornea Davidii Franch), AD-BADF (Alkali Degummed Bast Fiber of Alchornea Davidii Franch), and BED-BADF (Biological Enzyme degummed Bast Fiber of Alchornea Davidii Franch) were tested. The surface morphology of the above three kinds of fiber was analyzed by SEM. The results showed that the main component of degummed OS-BADF was cellulose, and the fiber had stripes in longitudinal direction, and kidney ellipsoid, irregular polygon in the cross section. After degumming treatment, the fineness of fiber decreased obviously and reached the spinnability index. Non-cellulose substances in OS-BADF can be removed by degumming. SEM observation showed that AD-BADF and BED-BADF became smoother after degumming. Compared with AD-BADF, BED-BADF had finer linear density, better thermal stability and higher antibacterial property. The equivalent flexural modulus and flexural rigidity of AD-BADF and BED-BADF were decreased compared with OS-BADF. In particular, the equivalent flexural modulus and the flexural rigidity of BED-BADF were mostly reduced, which indicated that BED-BADF became thinner and softer. The initial thermal decomposition temperature and the highest thermal decomposition temperature of AD-BADF and BED-BADF had been significantly increased. And -OH (free group) decreased significantly after degumming treatment. The testing results of the antibacterial properties of the three blended fabrics showed that the antibacterial properties of AD-BADF and BED-BADF were improved. Compared with AD-BADF, the antibacterial properties of BED-BADF were improved significantly. On the one hand, this research can provide a basis for technological research for the development of ADF (Alchornea Davidii Franch) bast fiber blended yarn and its textile product development. On the other hand, because of the high mechanical properties of ADF bast fiber, it also provides new development idea for the development of natural high-performance fiber reinforcement composites.

TEXTILES IN THE RESIDENTIAL INTERIOR

The relevance of the study is due to new experience in architectural design, new technologies and types of materials and the need to generalize and systematize them to expand the formative possibilities of textiles in the design of residential interiors. Research in the field of interior textile design was carried out by: T.I. Isayeva, Khabibullina, E.V. Zmanovska and others. The purpose of the study is to identify areas, functions and compositional techniques of textiles in residential interiors. The historical reference of development of textile production is resulted. The structural analysis of textiles in the interior by types of textile materials, production technology, types of weave, types of ornaments; identified qualities of textile materials, which determine their widespread use and the main areas of application of textiles in modern residential interiors. According to the results of the research, the main functions of textiles in the interior are revealed: creation of a comfortable microclimate in the room; psychological comfort; space adjustment; visual isolation; protection of surfaces from damage and pollution; hygiene products; decorative; compositional component of interior space design. The description of types of textile wall-paper, curtains is resulted. The compositional function of textiles in the interior is revealed: accent, dominant, background, rhythm.
 The conclusion is made that at a choice of textiles and reception of placement it is necessary to consider regional natural and climatic conditions; the style decision of an interior is accepted; function, size, orientation on the sides of the horizon of the room; combination of textiles with finishing of surfaces of enclosing designs and subject filling of the room; combination of fabrics in texture, color and pattern; price segment.

HISTORY OF WOMEN'S ACTIVITIES IN LIGHT INDUSTRY OF UZBEKISTAN

This article provides a detailed overview of the role and importance of women's participation in the light industry of Uzbekistan. The history of human society is unthinkable without light industry. With the development of a person, his needs grew, and in particular his needs for clothes, shoes, fabrics. The textile, sewing, leather and fur and footwear industries developed. The impetus for industrialization and the development of capitalism was the development of textile production.

Special Issue on Innovative Textiles in the Era of Circular Economy

This work presents the Special Issue on Innovative Textiles in the Era of Circular Economy, published in the Applied Sciences Journal. Such an issue was introduced to promote papers related to the textile field aiming at the development of a range of sustainable processes, technologies, products, and actions for the improvement of human well-being and social equity. Works proposed in this Special Issue are aimed at significantly reducing environmental risks and ecological shortcomings related to the development of textile products.

The Process of Promoting the Economic base of the Thai Lanna Textile Handicraft Community in Sukhothai

This research aims to study the potential and develop skills in textile handicrafts of Thai Lanna ethnic group inSukhothai Province. The research process was carried out as follows: 1) study the community context, 2) community-basedknowledge transfer, and 3) the development of textile products using quantitative and qualitative research methods. Researchtools include interviews and questionnaires, collected data from group conversations, and the satisfaction was assessed by aspecific sampling group from key informants from Thai Chanasuek Sub-District Community, Thung Saliam District, Sukhothaiprovince, in the group of 30 people by analyzing descriptive statistics. Research results showed that 1) the Thai Lanna ethniccommunity is a community that immigrated from Lampang Province with the traditions, culture, language, traditions andweaving with a flower pattern which has been the identity of the community and has been produced as costumes, blankets andbags. 2) The knowledge of the weaving production of the community arises from the dynamic exchange of knowledge betweenthe conveyer and the recipient of knowledge in the form of explicit knowledge. Knowledge consolidation and the conversion ofknowledge were applied to enhance the textile products and the economic base of Thai Chanasuek Sub-District Community. 3)Woven fabric pattern design, using the concept of Neem flower to develop the pattern by using cotton brocade technique andprocessing of woven fabrics into clothing with satisfaction in utility, shape and beauty. The average was at a very good level

Telar en Cucunubá, tradición que aún se teje a través del diseño contemporáneo

Esta investigación se centra en la identificación y la transformación del diseño desde la técnica de telar horizontal, usada por los artesanos del municipio de Cucunubá, en el desarrollo de productos textiles, a partir del contacto con entidades académicas de formación en diseño de vestuario y accesorios. Entre estas entidades se encuentran instituciones académicas, fundaciones y organizaciones gubernamentales que no solo representan el estado del diseño contemporáneo en Colombia, sino que también promueven la artesanía en el país.
 La investigación se desarrolló con artesanos del municipio de Cucunubá, ubicado en Cundinamarca, Colombia; este municipio se encuentra localizado a 90 km de Bogotá y es reconocido por su larga tradición textil en lana. El diseño metodológico de la investigación tiene un enfoque inductivo, mediante el cual fue posible analizar las particularidades de la técnica empleada por la comunidad. Además, se analizó la coyuntura actual entre la técnica artesanal y el diseño contemporáneo desde la academia y demás entidades gubernamentales e independientes, con las cuales los artesanos han trabajado en los últimos años. Asimismo, se pudo identificar un cambio importante en los procesos de producción, a partir de la modificación de algunas estructuras del telar, las cuales permitieron reducir tiempos de elaboración del producto. También se consideraron etapas importantes como el merchandising, los acabados de los productos y la implementación de puntadas y tejidos en el diseño de las prendas más características.

Innovative projects with real options in textile production: evaluation of their effect

The article raises a relevant topic - increasing the objectivity of assessing the effect of innovative projects with real options in the textile industry. The purpose of this article is to offer recommendations for assessing the effect of innovative projects with real options implemented in the textile industry. The novelty of the article is to identify trends in the development of textile production in Russia and to propose a mathematical model for assessing the effect of innovative projects with real options implemented in textile production. A forecast and an analysis of the main strategic directions of development of the Russian textile industry until 2025 were made. It was concluded that the use of real options changes approaches to innovative projects implemented by textile enterprises, which can lead to a change in the nomenclature and assortment produced within the framework of this project and the enterprise in overall textile products and the extent of its supply.

Managing knowledge and parameter dependencies with MBSE in textile product development processes

Abstract Today’s mechanical engineering companies are confronted with challenges like new material technologies, shorter product life cycles, increasing interdisciplinarity of the various departments as well as product development across distributed company locations. In the context of lightweight design, Tailored Textiles offer promising potentials to reduce product weight and manufacturing costs. Tailored Textiles are textiles with integrated local reinforcements whose textile properties can be adapted locally during the production due to the textile structures, so that process steps and therefore time and costs can be reduced. However, the production-oriented design of Tailored Textiles is currently very complex. One reason for this is the large number of stakeholders that are involved in the process. In order to make this complexity manageable, it is necessary to develop a common understanding of the textile process chain and to improve communication between different stakeholders. Another major challenge is the identification and management of technical parameter dependencies over the entire product development process (PDP). The aim pursued by this work is to link the technical parameter level of different expert models with the process level of Tailored Textiles PDP, so that expert knowledge is externalized to other stakeholders In this context, Model-Based Systems Engineering (MBSE) is a promising approach. Through the formalized application of modeling, MBSE allows the process accompanying development of a system model, which enables the visualization of the parameter dependencies within the product development process. In this paper, a methodological approach is presented which initially involves modeling the PDP for Tailored Textiles in a product data management system (PDMS). The process is then linked to a MBSE modeling tool. In the modeling tool, the analyzed parameters and their dependencies are set up and visualized. Following this procedure, the feasibility of the design will be evaluated based on a use case.

Textile materials as barriers against electromagnetic radiation

The accelerated development of textile products that have shielding properties against electromagnetic (EM) radiation excites the interest of scientists, the textile and clothing industry in the manufacture of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and clothing with shielding properties. This paper deals with the investigation of the shielding effect of the electroconductive fabric to be used for manufacturing protective clothing consisting of textile and non-textile components. The textile component is a cotton-modacrylic blend, and the non-textile component is an inox yarn inserted into the fabric every 1 cm in the transverse direction of the fabric. The fabric was finished using solvents in the processes of dry and wet cleaning as potential care processes. The measurement results of shielding fabric properties have shown that the degree of shielding is better preserved after 10 cycles of wet cleaning than after dry cleaning

주름 기법을 이용한 섬유제품 개발 - 누노펠트 기법 중심으로 -

주름 기법을 이용한 섬유제품 개발 - 누노펠트 기법 중심으로 -

Hibiscus sabdariffa (Roselle): A potential source of bast fiber

ABSTRACTRoselle is a bast fiber, and its utilization as a textile fiber for the development of textile products is still scanty. A work has been attempted to develop yarn from Roselle. Fibers were extracted from Roselle bark by decortication and degummed in alkaline medium. The degumming process was optimized based on fiber yield and strength. The degummed fibers were then bleached by the hydrogen peroxide bleaching process. Degummed and bleached fibers were characterized by scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and X-ray diffraction analysis. Degumming and bleaching results in enhancement of density, fineness, and brightness of Roselle fiber. A marginal decrease in tenacity of the Roselle fiber was observed after bleaching; however, the strength was not affected by degumming. Fibers were converted into fine yarn in the jute spinning system. The yarn properties inferred that the yarn possessed essential properties for the preparation of apparels and home furnishing.

Human – river relations at various stages of development of water front factory settlements in Łódź

Abstract The purpose of this article is to analyze and clarify the circumstances which led to the current condition and degradation of the watercourses and rivers of Łódź. These rivers were the decisive factor in initiating and stimulating the industrial development of the city. A detailed analysis examined changes in the management of river waters in the vicinity of the socalled water-front factory settlements (referred to locally as “posiadła”) in the River Jasień valley. This was the location of one of the first industrial settlements within the city of Łódź and took place shortly after the city was included by the Polish Kingdom authorities (in 1821) in the group of so-called factory cities intended for the development of the textile industry - initially with emphasis on the cloth and linen making industry, with further transformation into the cotton industry. The article presents the forms and methods of use of the River Jasień in the period from the beginning of the 19th century up to the present. The specification assumed therefore the period of agricultural usage in the form of water mills, through textile manufacture, industrial production and the period after the fall of the textile industry. The River Jasień is an outstanding example of the way, in which people have “treated” the river during the successive stages of technological development of textile production. How close to the river they settled at the early stages of industrial development, slowly “moving away” from the river, leading to its gradual degradation, and abandoning it, restraining it to a covered channel, to ultimately forgetting it ever existed. The changes in these man - river relationships, as described in this document, can lead to conclusions for the future direction for the current spatial policy of the city. Also about these riverside post-industrial areas, with regard to the need to restore their original values and the need to protect and conserve their unique natural character and cultural heritage.

Supporting product development in the textile industry through the use of a product lifecycle management approach: a preliminary set of guidelines

Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) is in some segments, such in the aerospace and defence (A&D) and automotive fields, a well-known business approach to support product development. However, while these markets recognise the power of PLM, others, such as textile, which searches for more performing solutions to meet the new globalised market competitiveness, still need to take the first steps towards a better understanding of how its processes/features could support the company businesses. For this reason, this paper aims to provide a roadmap about where and how PLM could support the development of textile products, in particular those ones that should be quickly innovated in order to answer to the volatile customers’ demand (fast fashion scenario), adopting a user-centred approach. Starting from a rigorous formalisation of the textile New Product Introduction (NPI) process, weaknesses and strengths have been then formalised via the involvement of NPI stakeholders catching and analysing their needs as users/actors. This set of requirements has been then correlated with the PLM features, through the use of Quality Function Deployment (QFD), in order to define a set of guidelines describing for each NPI process how PLM processes/features could be linked and which benefits could be obtained with this link. These guidelines could help textile companies to have a clearer idea of the advantages that could be obtained through the adoption of the PLM approach. Hence, the proposed methodology is able to provide to the company with a quantification of the impact of the PLM features on its processes. Moreover, it could support vendors to provide their solutions with more tailored features.

Production of Natural Dyed Palm Yarns and Fabrics

Palm fibreis a waste product from the fruit crushing-extracting process in local communities. This study examined the characteristics of natural dyed palm yarns and fabrics producedfrom treated palm fibres. The results showed that fibre characteristics were improved by anaerobic fermentation, and following crushing and carding, were 3-5 times smaller, softer and more pliable.In the production of palm/cotton yarns of No. 7 (50/50), No.10(40/60), No.16(30/70)andNo.10(0/100),the 3-5 denier palm yarns and cotton yarns were spun in open-end spinning units. Regarding the physical properties, the blended yarns showed more unevenness and higher tensile strength and elongation at break than 100% cotton yarn. However, it was found that the coarser yarns were lower in strength than the finer yarns. Fibre sorting by denier leads to a decrease in unevenness caused by thin and thick patches and neps. When dyed with natural dyes, the palm yarns were found highly fast to light, but only moderately fast to washing.Dark dye spots distributed on the palm fibre yarns formed a natural pattern structure in the woven textiles. The tested woven textiles from the weft palm yarns are lighter in weight and higher in tensile force and tear strength than their cotton counterparts. The results suggest that palm fibre yarns should be promoted and introduced in Thai textile craft markets to provide diversity and added value to Thai textiles. Moreover, this study offers an opportunity to use palm waste to provide an alternative income source while preserving the environment in local communities. Such community-level industries may provide a sound basis for sufficiency community economies and green textile product development.