Development Of Cosmetic Formulations Research Articles

Development of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Olive Extract and Spirulina sp.: Stability and Clinical Efficacy Studies

Cosmetic formulations with natural antioxidants can reduce the oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing olive extract (OE) and Spirulina sp. (SP). For this, rheological behavior, texture, and sensory properties were evaluated. In addition, 31 healthy women with an age of 39 to 60 years, with skin phototypes II and III, and the presence of signs of photoaging on the face were recruited and divided in Group 1 (vehicle formulation) and Group 2 (vehicle with active substances) for this clinical efficacy study. Both groups applied sunscreen daily during the day. The formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviors and good sensory properties. The clinical evaluation using instrumental measurements showed an increase in skin hydration, an improvement of the skin barrier, and morphological characteristics of the epidermis after 12 weeks of application of the formulations. There was a significant increase in the brightness of the stratum corneum, which suggested a film-forming effect. In addition, both groups had an improvement in the dermis echogenicity, due to the use of sunscreens. Finally, the proposed formulation was effective in protecting the skin and reducing skin changes related to photoaging.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts.

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Extraction, moisturizing activity and potential application in skin cream of Akebia trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz polysaccharide

Akebia trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz is gaining popularity, because of its high nutritional, economic and medicinal values. The purpose of this study was to optimize the extraction conditions of A. trifoliata (Thunb.) Koidz polysaccharide (ATKP) and investigate moisturizing activity to prepare a novel moisturizing cosmetic material. It has been observed that using polysaccharide yield as the evaluation criterion showed optimal extraction at a material-liquid ratio of 1:20, an ultrasonic temperature of 80 °C, an ultrasonic time 50 min and ultrasonic power of 175 W. Furthermore, three deproteinization methods of ATKP process, including Sevag, enzymatic hydrolysis and their combination method, were evaluated. The deproteinization efficiency of the Sevag and enzymatic hydrolysis combination method was the highest, with a deproteinization efficiency of 87.52 %. The moisturizing capacity of ATKP was significantly higher than that of chitosan and sodium alginate. ATKP-containing skin cream, particularly the combination of 4.2 % glycerol and 0.8 % ATKP, had an excellent moisturizing effect, and was added to cosmetic formulations to form skin creams. The findings revealed that ATKP has the potential synergistic effect with glycerol in the development of cosmetic formulations, which could be used as a new material for natural moisturizers.

Assessment of a Formulation Containing a Castanea sativa Shells Extract on Skin Face Parameters: In Vivo Evaluation

In the last years, the demand for new eco-friendly ingredients has increased on the cosmetic market. Consumers are more aware of sustainable principles and, simultaneously, more conscious regarding the skin aging process. Chestnut (Castanea sativa) shells are a food by-product produced in high quantities in Europe. This waste has been described as a rich source of phenolic compounds with skin biological effects, such as antioxidant, antiradical, and anti-inflammatory activities. Despite the huge number of assays reporting the richness of chestnut shell extracts in bioactive compounds as well as the development of cosmetic formulations containing these extracts, no in vivo assays have assessed their clinical efficacy in human volunteers. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect on skin face parameters of a formulation containing a chestnut shell extract in human volunteers (n = 22) who applied the product twice per day, for 56 days. For that, biophysical techniques, including Corneometer®, Cutometer®, and PrimosPremium, were employed, allowing the quantification of skin hydration and firmness, as well as of wrinkles’ depth and volume and wrinkles’ skin roughness. The results demonstrated that the formulation led to a slight decrease in roughness and wrinkles’ depth, although no significant differences with respect to a placebo were observed. In addition, a clear improvement of skin hydration was achieved (t0 = 54.00 Arbitrary Units (A.U.) and t56 = 58.62 A.U.). In contrast to the placebo, the active formulation increased skin firmness up to 31.76% in 50.00% of the volunteers, but without significant differences with respect to the placebo, probably due to the short period of treatment. A long-term use of the product is recommended to possibly observe significant differences in all parameters.

Recent Advances in Research on Polyphenols: Effects on Microbiota, Metabolism, and Health.

Polyphenols have attracted huge interest among researchers of various disciplines because of their numerous biological activities, such as antioxidative, antiinflammatory, antiapoptotic, cancer chemopreventive, anticarcinogenic, and antimicrobial properties, and their promising applications in many fields, mainly in the medical, cosmetics, dietary supplement and food industries. In this review, the latest scientific findings in the research on polyphenols interaction with the microbiome and mitochondria, their metabolism and health beneficial effects, their involvement in cognitive diseases and obesity development, as well as some innovations in their analysis, extraction methods, development of cosmetic formulations and functional food are summarized based on the papers presented at the 13th World Congress on Polyphenol Applications. Future implications of polyphenols in disease prevention and their strategic use as prophylactic measures are specifically addressed. Polyphenols may play a key role in our tomorrow´s food and nutrition to prevent many diseases.

Application of factorial design in the development of cosmetic formulations with carrageenan and argan oil

Background: Gel-cream formulations used as cosmetics can present various textures. They may be fluid or semisolid, being highly influenced by their composition. These presentations require a complete study to obtain information about the physical stability and consistency of the product and the possible interaction between its compounds. In this context, this study aimed to develop cosmetic formulations using carrageenan and argan oil and assess through factorial design the influencing factors on the physical-mechanical properties. Materials and Methods: This study presents two different moments, totalizing 28 formulations developed. First, 27 formulations were formulated according to a 3³ factorial design study to understand the influences of concentrations, processes, and interactions between the raw material. In a second moment, four formulations were selected from this factorial: F1 (1% carrageenan, without argan oil); F2 (2% argan oil; without carrageenan); F3 (without both), and F4, the formulation with the presence of both in the highest concentration. The formulation F4 was utilized to create F5, which presents the same basic composition as F4, but added 0.1% of NaCl. All the formulations were studied regarding the texture parameters using the TA.XT Texturometer. Results: The natural ingredients carrageenan and argan oil presented a synergistic action in improving the physical-mechanical properties of the formulation. It is possible to observe that the viscosity index is the most affected parameter according to the presence or absence of the variation of the raw materials. The addition of NaCl increased significatively all the physical-mechanical parameters studied. Thus, the formulation F4 presented higher results for consistency and index of viscosity when compared with F1, with the only carrageenan. Conclusions: This work has a significant contribution once showed that the use of factorial design could contribute to developing more suitable cosmetic formulations, besides evidence the possible interactions between the raw materials from natural sources, giving subsidies for the development of more stable cosmetics and with superior performance.

The application of the aqueous extract of milona leaves (Cissampelos sympodialis Eichl) in a cosmetic formulation

In the light of the search for untried natural active ingredients to provide new possibilities and increased benefits with their application in the cosmetic industry, we have introduced the species Cissampelos sympodialis Eichl (Menispermaceae) into the field of cosmetics. Our research was focused on the aqueous extract of milona leaves (Cissampelos sympodialis) and its application in cosmetic formulations. A phytochemical screening confirming the presence of some classes of secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, tannins, flavonoids and saponins had previously been reported in the literature. Due to its medicinal potential, mentioned in the literature, we applied the aqueous extract of Cissampelos sympodialis leaves in the development of cosmetic formulations, in view of its anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. On this basis, we consider the extract to be a promising active ingredient for skin and hair care. The aim of the present study was therefore to develop a cosmetic formulation (o/w), namely, a facial care cream containing the aqueous extract of milona leaves and to perform the stability study of the formulation.The stability study showed that the formulation presented no change in organoleptic characteristics, nor in physical and chemical parameters. The mean pH value was 4.5 ± 0.2 and the mean viscosity values were 999 ± 0.3 cP, which remained unchanged throughout the study. Microbiological analysis showed no formation of bacteria or fungi in the formulation containing the aqueous extract of Cissampelos sympodialis. We concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing this innovative raw material presents the desired characteristics for a new product. Further research will be necessary to perform clinical tests with volunteers to verify the benefits for the skin and hair.

Adapting epicutaneous patch testing protocols to assess immediate-type skin reactions.

During the development of cosmetic formulations, in vitro and in vivo methods are essential tools used to reliably assess the skin irritation potential of a product or ingredient. Epicutaneous patch testing (single and/or multiple application protocols) has long been used as an initial in vivo method to screen for possible skin irritation properties of a substance or formulation. To confirm the mildness and dermatological and/or consumer acceptance of a product, use tests are often subsequently conducted. A study was therefore initiated to see how well patch test results correlate with use tests with respect to irritation elicited by skincare (leave-on) products. A number of different cosmetic formulations were assessed in both tests. Although the patch test results did not indicate substantial irritation potentials, immediate-type reactions (stinging and redness) were observed in some volunteers which disappeared within approx. 1h. Although transient, these reactions suggested that consumer acceptance would probably be low and the studies were discontinued. Immediate-type reactions are rare but have been described for some substances used in cosmetics. These unexpected results were nevertheless intriguing and prompted the start of a journey to see if patch test protocols could be modified to assess these reactions. An occlusive short-term patch test protocol with an application period of 20min was developed. Successful identification of the spontaneous reactions became possible. Furthermore, there was a correlation between the intensity of reactions observed in the short-term patch test and those observed in the controlled in-use studies. Short-term patch testing using the developed protocol can therefore reliably be used as a screening method, for example in the development and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing ingredients that could cause spontaneous reactions, for instance of non-immunological contact urticaria type. The lessons learned from this studies indicate that simple modifications of existing test protocols can lead to important insights into skin reactions. These modifications can then be used to create further building blocks in the development and optimization of test strategies for cosmetic formulations which offer reliable study designs for possible reactions product developers may encounter.

Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation.

Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation. Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed. The texture profile of the formulations was analysed with a TA.XT plus Texturometer® . Twenty female volunteers aged 39-45 years were then selected for the assessment of immediate clinical efficacy of the formulations under study and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content and microrelief of the skin obtained with their use. The presence of UV filters resulted in an improvement of the physical properties of the multifunctional cosmetic formulation (M) and of skin microrelief. However, the presence of UV filters also caused a significant decrease in hydration. The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product.

Physical-Mechanical characterization of cosmetic formulations and correlation between instrumental measurements and sensorial properties.

The correct choice of raw materials in the development of cosmetic formulations is essential for obtaining stable and pleasant skin care products. Therefore, rheological, texture and sensory analyses are important to understand the behaviour and stability of the formulations. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop cosmetic formulations containing or not (vehicle) UV filters and chicory root extract, to evaluate their stability as well as to characterize their physical and texture properties and correlate them with the sensory attributes. Four formulations containing organic UV filters and chicory extract, each alone or in combination, were developed and evaluated for 180 days with a cone and plate rheometer, a texture analyzer and consumer's sensorial analysis. Thus, the data obtained were correlated to observe the different influences. The developed formulations remained stable after 180 days regarding macroscopic aspects, organoleptic characteristics and pH values. The addition of the UV filters alone and in combination with the active substance resulted in significant increases in rheology properties, viscosity and consistency. The formulation with the active ingredient showed significant decreases in the texture parameters after 180 days, mainly due to its polysaccharide inulin. All formulations obtained high scores in sensorial parameters. A strong correlation was mainly found between spreadability and work of shear, and between the texture parameters. The raw materials strongly influenced the physical, texture and sensorial parameters. Finally, the UV filters showed a greater influence on the results of the formulations than the chicory root extract. In conclusion, the association of the mentioned methods allows the correct choice of ingredients and their combinations.

Development of cosmetic formulations containing glucan polymer of Cassava (Manihot esculenta): stability and sensory analysis

The aim of this study was the development, rheological behaviour determination, and sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations containing glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta), a tensor agent that was proposed to produce an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. For this purpose, formulations were developed and supplemented or not with 4 % of hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract and submitted to preliminary stability tests. These formulations were evaluated in terms of rheological behaviour over 90 days. Sensory analysis was carried out through a research with 20 cosmetic consumers who answered a questionnaire regarding their perception to the cosmetic qualities. The formulations presented pseudoplastic behavior and were considered stable in the physical stability studies, with the exception of the gel formulation based on Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. The formulations were well evaluated in the sensory parameters. The gel formulations based on Polyacrylamide, C1314 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 were stable and presented the best sensory profile in some evaluated parameters, such as spreadability, smoothness and skin moisturizing, and can be considered an appropriate vehicle for formulations containing hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract.

Development of Cosmetic Formulations Using Rheological Properties -Generation of New Aqueous Thickeners and Novel Attempt for Quantitative Sensory Evaluation-

Development of Cosmetic Formulations Using Rheological Properties -Generation of New Aqueous Thickeners and Novel Attempt for Quantitative Sensory Evaluation-