Cross-shore Sediment Transport Research Articles

Numerical evaluation of the impact of sandbars on cross-shore sediment transport and shoreline evolution

Nearshore nourishments are a common intervention used to mitigate sediment deficits in coastal areas experiencing erosion problems. This coastal intervention involves placing nourished sediments in the submerged zone of the beach profile to form an artificial submerged sandbar which are then distributed by natural forces occurring in the coastal zone. Coastal processes that control the morphological evolution of coastal zones operate on several spatial and temporal scales (seconds to years) and can be divided into cross-shore and longshore components. Usually, the numerical models that simulate the evolution of cross-shore profiles due to sediment transport within the profiles, are related with short to medium-term events (days to months), and shoreline evolution models, that allow for long-term analysis (years to decades), are typically only considering longshore sediment transport. Describing all the processes in a single numerical model is complex and computationally demanding, and therefore, the numerical models are typically focused on specific processes, categorized by their temporal and spatial scales. This article presents a numerical study focused on medium to long-term numerical modelling of coastal zone evolution, examining the combined effects of cross-shore and longshore sediment transport processes of sediment transport. The model incorporates two simplified numerical models: LTC - Long Term Configuration, for shoreline evolution and CS-Model, for cross-shore sediment exchanges. Applied to nine different sandbar scenarios, model results revealed that disturbances in sandbar volume tend to return to equilibrium through cross-shore sediment transport processes. In situations that considered a constant sandbar volume alongshore, the longshore effects are null, because the volume entering in the coastal domain is equal to the volume leaving, and the sediment balance is only dependent of the cross-shore processes. Variable sandbar volume alongshore leads to impacts on shoreline position due to longshore sediment transport gradients generated by the sandbar disturbance. The results demonstrate the potential of the proposed combined model for medium to long-term projections, allowing for the interpretation of how physical aspects of nearshore nourishments evolve. These aspects include sandbar volume, shoreline position, berm width, and shoreline displacements induced by cross-shore and longshore sediment transport processes. These parameters aid in understanding sandbar-beach sediment dynamics, which is valuable for supporting coastal management, particularly in the development and design of shoreface sand nourishments, enabling the optimization of sand resources.

The Impact of Foreshore Slope on Cross-Shore Sediment Transport and Sandbar Formation in Beach Berm Nourishment

Foreshore slope is crucial in designing beach berm nourishment schemes and understanding coastal responses to wave forces. Beach berm nourishment often suffers from a high loss rate, necessitating theoretical research and design parameter comparison to mitigate these losses early on. This study uses Bagnold’s energy conservation method and the small-angle approximation method to establish a relationship between cross-shore sediment transport and foreshore slope. The feedback mechanism between these factors shows that when the foreshore slope is fewer than 10 degrees, a smaller initial slope results in a reduced rate of sediment transport. Over time, the foreshore slope decreases and eventually reaches equilibrium, promoting the formation of an offshore sandbar, which helps reduce sediment loss. Using data from Guanhu Beach in Dapeng Bay, this study constructs a realistic numerical beach model to simulate the dynamic behavior of beach profiles with varying foreshore slopes under the influence of monsoon waves and storm surges. The simulation results support the feedback mechanism findings, demonstrating that profiles with minimal foreshore slopes experience the least initial sediment loss, thus facilitating sandbar formation more effectively. These insights can inform beach berm nourishment strategies, emphasizing early-stage efforts to expand beach areas and reduce sediment loss.

Observed beach nourishment development in a semi-enclosed coastal embayment

Beaches are important coastal features that provide vital ecosystem services; however, these systems are threatened by coastal erosion, sea-level rise, and coastal squeeze. Beach nourishments are a commonly applied coastal protection measure to mitigate erosion and flood risks while maintaining or enhancing recreational values. Nourishments vary in scale from mega-nourishments to small-scale nourishments, where the latter has typically been less studied due to the limited resources for monitoring. Meanwhile, with rising sea levels, the implementation of small-scale nourishments is expected to increase, and there is a need for more knowledge about the morphological evolution and technical lifetime of these interventions. In this study, the morphological responses of small-scale beach nourishment (total volume 20,000 m3 which amounts to 30 m3 added per m alongshore) are observed and quantified over various timescales, considering the initial adjustment, long-term development, and event-driven response. The investigated nourishment is implemented in a partly sheltered coastal embayment in the semi-enclosed Baltic Sea, which has a complex interaction between waves and water levels. Furthermore, the beach is surrounded by hard structures, a rock revetment at the back, and a harbor mole and a groin, influencing the longshore and cross-shore sediment transport. The results show that substantial reduction in subaerial volume can be attributed to specific events. In addition, we observed considerable spatial variation in the sediment re-distribution induced by hard structures and variability in the nearshore bathymetry. The lifetime of the beach nourishment is just over two years. The nourished material remains in the system at the end of the lifetime but is not available for beach recovery. Still, the added subaerial volume has eroded at the midsection, and the protective beach width has been reduced, leaving the rock revetment exposed with reduced protection for the hinterland. The energy conditions at the site are highly episodic, which impacts morphological evolution, and observations indicate that the development is event-driven.

The response of sediment transport and morphological evolution to storms with different characteristics

Strong wave-current interaction under the impact of storm events can induce a series of complex sedimentary processes of sediment resuspension and transport and morphology changes, significantly changing the topography of coastal zones. However, coastal sedimentary processes during storm events have not been fully understood. In this study, we developed a wave-current-sediment coupled model to investigate the response of dynamical processes to extreme storm events. The model was first validated against the observed data for both storm conditions during the 2007 Typhoon Wipha and fair-weather conditions in 2016 in the Haizhou Bay (HZB) of the Yellow Sea. The simulated results indicated that the longshore sediment transport was dominated originally by tidal effects which were significantly enhanced by wind-induced waves during the passage of the Typhoon Wipha. Storms with different characteristics correspond to two typical sedimentary dynamic response modes based on a series of numerical experiments. The tidal pumping effect (T3 + T4 + T5) and gravitational circulation term (T6) controlled the total storm-induced sediment flux, and T6 played a crucial and special role, typically in the opposite direction of the dominant wind of the storm. The strong wind could lead to the stratification of the water column, causing the down-slope or up-slope cross-shore sediment transport, resulting in coastal seabed erosion/deposition. In addition, the onshore wind was found to have a stronger impact on the sedimentary process. The methodology and findings of this study provide a scientific basis for understanding the response mechanism of sediment transport during storm events in coastal areas.

Cross-Shore Modeling Features: Calibration and Impacts of Wave Climate Uncertainties

Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations.

Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone: A Review

This paper presents a review of cross-shore sediment transport for non-cohesive sediments in the coastal zone. The principles of sediment incipient motion are introduced. Formulations for the estimation of bedload transport are presented, for currents and combined waves and current flows. A method to consider the effect of sediment heterogeneity on transport, using the hiding–exposure coefficient and hindrance factor, is depicted. Total transport resulting from bedload and transport by suspension is also addressed. New research is encouraged to fill the knowledge gap on this topic.

Photogrammetric Investigation of Storm-Induced Erosion Process on Sandy Beach Profile in Medium-Scale Flume

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous laboratory measurements, including the monotonous exchange from foreshore erosion to shoaling zone accretion in most stages of the storm simulation. The surf zone was the main region supplying sediment for beach morphology modification and sandbar generation. The degree of storm erosion was not completely determined by the largest wave height and water level or the cumulative wave power of the apex phase. The largest gradients of the wave parameter sequence change occurred in the rising phase, and this was the main factor generating efficient beachface erosion. It induced an increase in sandbar size, accompanied by the cross-shore motion of maximum velocity amplitude, more violent disturbances of wave nonlinearity, and increased surf zone erosion, with these factors increasing beach instability and leading to more severe storm erosion. The large wave height and water level resulted in shoreline retreat, with a more significant swash zone erosion under a higher runup. The offshore sediment transport turned toward the onshore direction as the original large sandbar deteriorated under the decreasing wave parameter sequence in the waning phase.

Determination of Grain Sorting in an Accretion Profile Caused by Cross-Shore Sediment Transport

Determination of Grain Sorting in an Accretion Profile Caused by Cross-Shore Sediment Transport

Alongshore variability in berm and sandbar migration patterns on a highly dynamic beach

Sediment exchange between the shoreface and the foreshore is investigated through the analysis of sandbar and berm migration cycles at La Misión beach in Baja California, Mexico. In general, nearshore sandbars migrate onshore during low-energy wave conditions merging with the shoreline to become intertidal sandbars that later contribute to berm rebuilding. However, significant alongshore differences were observed in the sandbar welding and berm rebuilding process, which can be attributed to alongshore wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations. The analysis of topographic and bathymetric surveys collected monthly over a 5-year period revealed larger shoreline retreat and longer recovery times in the southern beach compared to the north. This was related to the inability of sandbars to weld to the intertidal beach during spring and summer, occurring only during extended periods of low-energy waves. In the southern beach, the berm formation process exhibited less dependence on incoming wave energy, persisting during mild-energy winters, and reforming in the presence of sandbars. Hydrodynamic measurements indicated that the southern part of the beach experienced relatively more intense net offshore flows (up to −0.2 ms−1) due to undertow, and possibly related to the presence of persistent rip currents. In contrast, the berm in the northern beach followed a seasonal erosion and rebuilding process associated with sandbar migrations driven by variations in incoming wave energy and cross-shore sediment transport. This was characterized by larger near-bed wave velocity skewness compared to the south. Net flows in the north were predominantly onshore, reaching up to 0.1 ms−1 during lower-energy periods with oblique wave incidence. This study reveals the presence of considerably distinct sandbar and berm migration cycles along a relatively short beach of 2.2 km long. It also highlights how such variability can be related to the morphodynamic feedback with sandbars affecting hydrodynamics, particularly near-bed wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations, which in turn influence sediment transport and morphological evolution.

A new approach for handling complex morphologies in hybrid shoreline evolution models

Hybrid shoreline evolution models are being increasingly used to inform the management of sandy coastal systems. These models generally apply a two-dimensional physics-driven approach to calculate littoral drift and the one-line theory to update the shoreline morphology. As per the one-line theory, the calculated littoral drift is uniformly distributed over the active coastal profile. A key challenge facing the application of hybrid models is that they fail to consider complex morphologies when updating the shoreline morphology. Complex morphologies are defined herein by non-parallel depth contours to the shoreline, a characteristic feature of many vulnerable sandy coastal systems. This study illustrates the deficiency of the current hybrid 2D/one-line approach when applied to hindcast shoreline change from 2014 to 2016 along a sandy coast with fringing reefs in Puerto Rico. Results show that the hybrid approach is unable to predict observed shoreline change (BrierSkillScore=0) as a result of the one-line theory assumption of a spatially constant closure depth, which defines the offshore extent of significant cross-shore sediment transport. To address this, a new hybrid approach is developed for application in complex morphologies that accounts for alongshore variations in the closure depth. In the new hybrid approach, the coast is divided into segments according to the alongshore distribution of fringing reef substrate with each segment having a different closure depth specified based on their underlying bed morphology. Results show that this new hybrid approach enables a more realistic simulation (BrierSkillScore=0.4) of observed shoreline change. This finding explicitly demonstrates that the closure depth is an important variable in shoreline evolution models. It also implicitly indicates that we are likely to better simulate shoreline evolution in complex morphologies over timescales of concern in coastal management by allowing the closure depth to vary alongshore in hybrid models.

Mesoscale Shoreline Evolution on a Carbonate Sand Island: Anegada, British Virgin Islands

Anegada, the easternmost island of the Virgin Islands group (Caribbean Sea), is a low Pleistocene carbonate platform surrounded by Horseshoe Reef, the world’s third-largest fringing reef. The western part of the island consists of an extensive beachridge plain (>40 ridges). The sandy carbonate shoreline exists in three morphodynamic domains that exhibit distinctive behaviour over the 59-year study period (1953 to 2012). The northern shore is dominated by westerly longshore drift under fair-weather conditions and cross-shore sediment transport during high-energy events. Storm wave run-up and high nearshore sediment availability contribute to the construction of shore-parallel beachridges. The western end of the island is affected by refracted waves that drive strong erosion and sediment transport. This is reflected in a succession of alternating rapid shoreline recession and progradation phases over the study period. The south–central shoreline is exposed to low wave energy and is stable and colonised by mangroves. The fringing reef plays a dominant role in mesoscale shoreline morphodynamics, both as a sediment source and in wave energy dissipation. Quasi-stable points and embayments suggest a strong influence of the reef framework in controlling the shoreline’s morphology and position. Sediment transfer from the reef to the shoreline appears to take place via shore-oblique, linear sediment transport pathways that develop across the lagoon in response to the modification of incoming waves. Cannibalisation of the shoreline sediment over the past 50 years is leading to straightening of the shoreline planform. This is counter to the long-term (Holocene) development of beachridges and suggests a change from a strongly positive to negative sediment budget.

EFFECT OF LARGE-SCALE FORCING ON THE LOCAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT POTENTIAL AT THE SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN BALTIC SEA COAST

The Schleswig-Holstein (SH) Baltic Sea coast consists of different morphological features (e.g., bars, beaches, dunes, cliffs), which are continuously shaped by various along- and cross-shore sediment transport patterns driven by local currents generated from tides, seiches, winds and waves (Soomere et al., 2012). Understanding local scale sediment transport is of utmost importance to manage the scarce coastal sediments and to identify suitable mitigation strategies against extreme forcing scenarios (Hofstede and Hamann, 2022). This investigation was carried out at the exemplary cliff coast at Stohl, at which the glacial till cliff (maximum height about 20 m) is the source of nearshore sediments (Averes et al., 2021). The main objective of this study is to investigate the relative importance of different forcing conditions on local sediment transport pathways.

Modelling and evaluation of beach morphodynamic behavior: A case study of Dongsha Beach in eastern China

Beaches provide natural protection for coast and ecosystems. Storm surges and waves make significant impacts on the topographic changes of beaches, subsequently causing crises of coastal erosion and management. Beach protection and nourishment projects is growing considerably along the world. Five profiles of Dongsha Beach located in the southeast of Zhujiajian Island, eastern China, were measured and used to analyze the cross-shore profile changes, longshore sediment transport, beach rotation and equilibrium shoreline and profile. Delft3D Flow/Wave and XBeach models were established and calibrated to investigate the morphological responses of Dongsha Beach. It was found that: (1) the longshore sediment transport dominated the changes of erosion and accretion sediment volume compared to the cross-shore sediment transport; (2) the shoreline of Dongsha Beach was not in equilibrium condition compared to the profile equilibrium conditions; (3) the longshore sediment transportation was the main reason of the erosion because the shoreline changes caused by longshore sediment transport during the storm condition could not be restored during calm sea periods; (4) the correlation between wave induced currents and Hs2·T was good and the dominating wave direction was 90°. Finally, sediment nourishment projects named N1∼N3 were assumed and simulated to identify the optimum for the dynamic balance of Dongsha beach. Sediment sources with D50 of 0.5 mm should be chosen in sediment nourishment projects, and the nourished area should be selected in N1 or N3 of the beach. The numerical model established in this study could be a useful tool to predict the future erosion and accretion of beaches. This study can provide a useful understanding and reference especially for the embayed beach nourishment, making the beach management decisions more scientific and reasonable.

Interannual variability in dominant shoreline behaviour at an embayed beach

Shoreline variability at embayed beaches can be characterized into modes where either longshore or cross-shore sediment transport processes dominate the overall shoreline response, or there is a mixed combination of the two. To-date it has been assumed that the relative dominance of these differing modes of longshore and/or cross-shore shoreline behaviour is stationary in time. This concept is tested using a unique 43-year dataset of shoreline positions at Narrabeen-Collaroy beach (southeast Australia) and a rolling five-year window Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis, revealing the new observation of a distinct interannual variability in the dominant cross-shore and longshore modes of shoreline behaviour at this site. The dominant mode of shoreline behaviour was found to range from time periods when the cross-shore mode (referred to as the cross-shore coherent mode) comprised as much as 74 % of the overall shoreline variability, contrasting to other time periods when the alongshore mode of shoreline behaviour (longshore coherent mode) was more dominant, accounting for up to 62 % of the observed shoreline variability. Wave forcing correlation analysis suggests that these modes are controlled by varying influences of wave intensity and wave direction at interannual time scales. Consistent with previous research at this same embayment, the cross-shore coherent mode of shoreline variability appears to be controlled primarily by wave height/intensity, with stronger controls (i.e., higher correlation) when this cross-shore mode was overwhelmingly dominant. In contrast, the contribution of the longshore coherent mode appears to be controlled primarily by wave direction, but also at certain unique times in the time series by wave intensity. Analysis using available topographic and bathymetric data suggests that the observed switch in longshore versus cross-shore dominance may be triggered by extreme storm events, which cause significant and near ‘instantaneous’ redistribution of sediment across the entire shoreface and beach face. These results highlight the importance of considering a non-stationary shoreline behaviour at embayed beaches and the association of differing modes of dominant shoreline behaviour with interannual wave climate variability. Given observed interannual variability in deep water wave climates more broadly, it is likely that the dominant modes of shoreline variability may also occur at other embayed beaches and should be considered for numerical modelling (and prediction) of future shoreline behaviour.

Development, calibration and validation of a phase-averaged model for cross-shore sediment transport and morphodynamics on a barred beach

Simulating cross-shore sediment transport and associated sandbar migration is still a challenging task for phase-averaged coastal morphological models. Numerical studies have mostly relied on beach morphology prediction for calibration and validation, without examining in much detail the underlying hydrodynamics, sediment concentrations and transport rates. This paper reports on a new three-dimensional coastal morphodynamic model based on the hydrodynamic model of Zheng et al. (2017), combined with an advection-diffusion type suspended sediment transport model and the extended SANTOSS near-bed sediment transport formula of Van der A et al. (2013), to represent the key cross-shore transport mechanisms. The model is are calibrated based on comprehensive measurements from a large-scale laboratory experiment involving regular plunging breaking waves over an evolving sandbar, covering detailed comparisons on hydrodynamics, sediment suspension, transport rates, and bed level evolution. Separate validation using large scale wave flume experiments were also conducted to confirm the model's performance on different conditions. Good agreements are obtained between measurements and model results, which demonstrates the model's ability to reproduce cross-shore sediment transport processes under breaking waves correctly, given that the appropriate parameterizations for intra-wave processes are included. Model results also reveal the onshore near-bed transport is related to wave-induced near-bed streaming, wave skewness and asymmetry, and bed slope effects at different locations across the beach surface. Wave breaking-induced turbulence enhances the near-bed transport within the bed boundary layer which needs to be taken into account in order to achieve good model prediction skills.

Sediment Budget and Net Sediment Transport on a Coast Dominated by Waves and Offshore Currents: A Case Study on the Ishikawa Coast and Its Surrounding Areas in Japan

This study discusses the coastal sediment budget for the Ishikawa coast using 12 years of observational datasets; it involves an understanding the local and regional sediment dynamics, the intensity of the transport processes in the region, and sediment supply from a local river. Although alongshore sediment transport and sediment budgets have been analyzed in previous studies, only a few conducted cross-shore sediment transport evaluations. The concentration of suspended sediments will be determined in this study, taking into account the influence of waves that are associated with the coastal current. The cross-shore sediment transport using sediment budget analysis indicated that the net alongshore sediment transport directions in the surf and offshore zones are opposite on the Ishikawa coast. The increase in the sediment budget of the surf zone can be attributed to the river sediment supply and longshore sediment transport inflow. Because of the significant outflow components of longshore and cross-shore sediment transports, the offshore zone budget showed a decreasing trend. A detailed sensitivity study was performed by varying the input parameters, in order to determine the possible ranges of net transport rates and sediment transport to the adjacent coasts. The results demonstrated the possibility of a clockwise residual sediment circulation. Our method can be used to analyze the alongshore sediment transport for other coasts and supplement future studies on coastal sedimentology and sediment budgets.

Simulation of cross-shore breaker bar development utilizing a stabilized two-equation turbulence model

The performance of a recently developed “stabilized” turbulence (k−ω) closure model, which avoids un-physical over-production of turbulence prior to wave breaking, is investigated in the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulation of cross-shore sediment transport and breaker bar morphology. Comparisons are made with experiments as well as results from simulations employing (otherwise identical) “standard” turbulence closure. The stabilized turbulence model is demonstrated to result in major (qualitative and quantitative) improvements of the predicted breaker bar position and height. Conversely, the established over-production of turbulence in the standard closure, coupled with associated inaccurate undertow structure in the outer surf zone, contribute to erroneous offshore migration of the breaker bar. By correcting these shortcomings, the stabilized turbulence closure model rightly predicts initial onshore morphological migration of the breaker bar without any calibration. This work thus establishes proper turbulence modeling as a prerequisite for accurate CFD prediction of cross-shore sediment transport and profile morphology.

What can long-termin situmonitoring data tell us about our coastlines?

AbstractLong-termin situmonitoring of beach morphology is indispensable for capturing the processes of foreshore morphological changes, and thus many beach monitoring campaigns have been conducted globally. Here, we review the various foreshore beach processes attributable to cross-shore sediment transport, which have been elucidated through long-term beach monitoring. Historicalin situbeach monitoring has revealed many daily–annual-scale cyclic foreshore beach morphological changes and shoreline changes; however, many shorter- and longer-term processes remain unresolved, for example, the short-term response to tidal fluctuations and the long-term response to sea level rise. The cost per area surveyed of state-of-the-art equipment will gradually decrease over time, and the accuracy, resolution, and volume of information obtained from the monitoring methods, which are still in the early stages of development, will improve as research progresses. Continued long-term monitoring and acquisition of previously unmeasured monitoring data through the development of monitoring methods are expected to help elucidate unresolved beach processes.

Seasonal Morphological Variability on Estuarine Beaches and Implications for Low-Energy Beach Management

Mercaldi, B.; Brideau, L.E.; Tait, J.F., and Griggs, G., 2022. Seasonal morphological variability on estuarine beaches and implications for low-energy beach management. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(6), 1135–1147. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines are critical for habitats and coastal infrastructure protection. Many different species inhabit estuaries because of the water bodies' unique characteristics, such as their mixed seawater and freshwater and variable tidal ranges. Estuarine beaches also have the important role of buffering storm wave energy. Yet, their natural physical processes are understudied. This research focuses on seasonal morphological variability of estuarine, low-energy beaches and evaluates the implications for beach management practices. Five sandy beaches were studied along the northern shoreline of Long Island Sound in the northeastern region of the United States. The studied beaches vary in location, width, length, and orientation within Long Island Sound to represent different exposures to wave energy. Three seasonal profiles were measured at each beach approximately every four months from late 2015 to early 2019 to document topographic changes. The results revealed minimal sediment movement throughout the study period and there was no evidence of significant cyclic cross-shore sediment transport to indicate patterns of seasonal profile changes. These findings reveal important implications for beach management practices on low-energy shorelines. Specifically, estuarine and other low-energy beaches should be studied on decadal time scales to document any long-term variability and post-storm recovery rather than the monthly or yearly time scales on which open-ocean beaches are typically evaluated. Additionally, estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines require specialized management practices that cater to their stagnancy to ensure adequate protection of coastal structures and infrastructure in the face of intensifying hurricanes and sea level rise.

Experimental Investigation on the Mechanism of Longshore Sediment Transport Using a Circular Wave Basin

In this paper, a hydraulic model experiment was conducted to investigate the mechanism of longshore sediment transport on a sloping beach of 1:7 using a circular wave tank equipped with a spiral wave maker. The experimental results revealed that cross-shore sediment transport was predominant up to the formation of equilibrium cross-section. Then the longshore sediment transport was actively dominant near the bar after the development of equilibrium topography. The wave-breaking positions and the characteristics of sand displacement in the vicinity of the wave-breaking zone were observed throughout the installation of fluorescent sands in different cross-sections under several wave conditions on the same terrain to presume the coastal erosion. From the outcomes, it was confirmed that the gradient of the average water level due to the obliquely incident waves breaking and the differences in breaking positions along the shoreline accelerated the generation of longshore currents and longshore sediment transport in the sloping beach profile. Moreover, the actively longshore sediment transport tendency throughout the breaking waves and the longshore current had been confirmed in this study where the gradually increasing wave heights influenced the stronger degree of wave breaking on the sloping beach, which enhanced the sediment transport procedure to deform the beach profile.