Cosmetic Potential Research Articles

Exploring the Multifaceted Potential of Kigelia africana: Journey from Ethnomedicine to Cosmeceutical

Since ancient times, Indian Balam Kheera or Kigelia africana sausage trees have been utilized to heal a variety of human afflictions. Ethnobotanists have documented the traditional uses of K. africana, which include the management of skin conditions, cancer, and gynaecological problems. Scientists have been interested in assessing the bioactivity of plant components of K. africana. Numerous researchers have been most interested in its fruit and leaves due to their diverse pharmacological properties. K. africana has been used to develop items that are sold commercially, yet many of them lack complete standardization. It is necessary to carry out additional research, extract novel bioactive phytochemicals, standardize K. africana products, and scientifically confirm other traditional applications of K. africana; despite numerous efforts by researchers to do so, many of these claims remain unsupported. The purpose of this review was to draw attention to Kigelia africana's undiscovered cosmetic potential.

Enhancing rhamnolipid production via immobilized Pseudomonas stutzeri lipase: A comparative study

Rhamnolipids (RLs) are widely studied biosurfactants with significant industrial potential in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and bioremediation due to their excellent surface activity, emulsifying properties and bioactive characteristics. However, high production costs impede their mass production. This study investigates the immobilization of Pseudomonas stutzeri lipase (PSL) on various supports to enhance RL synthesis efficiency, focusing on yield and regioselectivity in the enzymatic synthesis of 4-O-lauroylrhamnose by the transesterification of rhamnose with vinyl laurate. Three immobilization methods were compared: covalent binding, adsorption on Celite, and adsorption on hydrophobic supports. The immobilization efficiency varied depending on the method used, with the lowest observed for adsorption on Celite (56 %), followed by covalent immobilization on Sepabeads (EC-EP/S 78 % and EC-EP/L 70 %), and the highest for adsorption on hydrophobic supports (83–97 %, with EC-OD being the best at 97 %). For the enzymatic synthesis of 4-O-lauroylrhamnose, covalent immobilization on Sepabeads™ EC-EP yielded low conversions due to restricted conformational freedom of the enzyme. Celite® 545 adsorption resulted in moderate conversion rates, limited by the electrostatic interactions restricting enzyme activity. The most promising results were obtained with hydrophobic supports, particularly Purolite® ECR8806F, achieving nearly complete conversion and maintaining high regioselectivity at the 4-position of rhamnose in both THF and the green solvent 2-methyltetrahydrofuran (2-MeTHF). The study highlights the critical role of support hydrophobicity and active surface area in the immobilized enzyme performance. PSL immobilized on Purolite® ECR8806F demonstrated significant potential for sustainable RLs production, showing excellent reusability, stability and productivity across multiple reaction cycles. This study presents a significant advancement in RLs production by optimizing PSL immobilization and reaction conditions, facilitating the way for more cost-effective and sustainable industrial applications.

Zein-cyclodextrin complex used to prepare high internal phase pickering emulsions with various oil phases

Biobased solid particles for stabilizing high internal phase emulsions (HIPEs) are widely used in food and cosmetics industries. This study report a kind of zein-cyclodextrin complex particles which could HIPEs with various oil phases (log P values: 1.14–9.26), showcasing their wide applicability across different oil types. This versatility due to the slight differences (6–8°) in the three-phase contact angles for different oils. Furthermore, the complex particles showed a marked improvement in emulsification performance, as evidenced by their significantly higher diffusion rates (7–15 times faster) and reorientation speeds (2–5 times faster) at the oil-water interface. Moreover, the emulsions prepared were stable across a broad pH range (3–9), successfully addressing the common stability challenges associated with protein-based emulsifiers near their isoelectric points. Therefore, these complex particles have great potential in cosmetics, waste oil treatment and food field, such as multifunctional 3D bioprinting ink.

Mentha aquatica (Water Mint) as a Source of ActivePharmaceutical and Cosmetic Ingredients: ACriticalReview.

Mentha aquatica L., or water mint, is an important member of the Mentha genus, and has long been used in traditional medicine, mainly to treat respiratory diseases such as the common cold. Nevertheless, although over the years many studies have shown that it's potential grows beyond this use, a review that highlights M. aquatica L.'s true potential is still lacking. Thus, the main purpose of the present article is to provide a thorough and multidisciplinary critical review of M. aquatica L., including its phytochemical characterization, main bioactivities, and current marketed cosmetic products. Many compounds have been identified as part of M. aquatica L. composition, such as terpenes, phenolic acids, phenols, and terpenoids, which have been linked to a vast therapeutic potential, namely anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, antiobesity, and hepatoprotection bioactivities, with additional anticancer potential for several types of tumors (breast, lung, and skin), and psycho and neuroactive potential in depression, or Alzheimer's or Parkinson's disease. Additionally, it has been proven to be suitable for cosmetic application since several cleansing, hydrating, protecting, and/or odor masking products containing it are already available, with the main functions attributed to M. aquatica including refreshing/cooling effects, calming/soothing/relaxing effects, and purifying effects, properties closely related to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant bioactivities. Hence, M. aquatica is an extremely versatile plant, with its extracts and essential oils having great therapeutic and cosmetic potential. With many marketed cosmetic products, future studies should focus on this plant's medicinal aspects, so that 1 day it can be part of therapeutic regimens.

Comparing gastric emptying of cellulose nanocrystals with sodium alginate and pectin using a dynamic in vitro stomach model

Cellulose nanocrystals (CNC) are increasingly recognized for their potential in various applications, including packaging, cosmetics, and biomedical engineering. Due to their gelation properties influenced by pH and ionic strength, CNC could impact gastric emptying and satiety, beneficial for managing obesity and diabetes. This study investigated the gastric emptying of CNC (4 % and 8 %, w/w) in comparison with sodium alginate (2 %, w/w) and pectin (2 %, w/w), exploring the effect of divalent cations (Ca2+ and Mg2+) using a dynamic gastric digestion model. CNC, in the presence of Ca2+ and Mg2+, formed a high-viscosity gel network under gastric conditions, leading to delayed gastric emptying. While alginate formed strong gels with Ca2+, it did not significantly delay gastric emptying due to the poor water-holding capacity of its gel network. Pectin showed minimal impact on gastric emptying. Among the treatments, the half-time (t1/2) of gastric emptying for 8 % CNC with Ca2+ was observed to be the longest at 215.4 ± 23.7 min, compared to the shortest times observed with pectin at 15.1 ± 1.4 min. The results suggest that different mechanisms are involved in the gastric emptying effect of different dietary fibers, and CNC is more effective than alginate and pectin assisting in promoting gastric retention and aiding in the management of body weight. This study also introduced a novel application of the dynamic gastric digestion model for estimating digestion energy expenditure, providing insights into the impact of dietary fiber on gastric emptying and satiety enhancement.

Evaluation of the anti-aging potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline in cosmetics

Acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline, a commercialized bio-active peptide, is widely used in anti-wrinkle formulations. Volunteer-based tests have demonstrated that topical application of products containing acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline significantly reduces the visibility of stretch marks. However, there is still a lack of research dedicated to systematically and holistically evaluating its cosmetic properties and elucidating its mechanisms of action. In this study, we assessed the cosmetic potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline using human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and mouse embryonic fibroblasts (3T3). Our findings reveal that acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline exhibits anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities in skin cells, particularly effective against the inflammatory markers cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and interleukin-6 (IL-6), and the extent of inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production ranged from 95 % to 340 %. Moreover, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline specifically up-regulates Collagen IV and down-regulates matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9), enhances the expression of skin barrier proteins transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) and filaggrin (FLG), thereby demonstrating its reparative capabilities. Additionally, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline increases the expression of the water channel protein aquaporin 3 (AQP3), thus improving skin hydration function. These results substantiate the previously proclaimed cosmetic attributes of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline and support its efficacy as an anti-aging agent in dermatological applications.

Bio-inspired stretchable and self-healable nanocomposite gelatin hydrogel with low silica nanoparticle content and brilliant angle/strain-independent structural colors

Stretchable and self-healable structural-colored nanocomposite gelatin hydrogel with photonic structure of random dense/loose regions of non-close-packed silica nanoparticles (SiO2 NPs) is developed via convenient and scalable polymer-mediated assembly. The formation of the special photonic structure with overall low SiO2 NP content is characterized by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The small-angle X-ray scattering test indicates the existence of short-range order, which is consistent with the TEM and SEM results. The dense photonic structure consisting of SiO2 NP chains and domains, and the loose structure consisting of abundant solitary SiO2 NPs, accounts for pronounced and uniform structural colors via combined effects of coherent scattering of light by dense structure, and Mie scattering of solitary NPs. These structural colors are independent of viewing angles and large mechanical strains. The dynamic physical and chemical bonding of the gelatin hydrogel network matrix enables self-healing functions and good deformability. Moreover, salt treatment of the structural-colored gelatin hydrogel networks enhances physical crosslinking and the mechanical strength of the hydrogel. The resilient, flexible and self-healable structural-colored nanocomposite hydrogel with low SiO2 NP content has great potential in wearable photonics, cosmetics, and various other color-related fields. This work also sheds light on enhancing non-iridescent structural colors through advanced photonic design.

Chemical Composition and In Vitro Bioactivities of Extracts from Cones of P. halepensis, P. brutia, and P. pinea: Insights into Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Potential.

Various parts of the Pinaceae species, a traditional plant, have potential health benefits and exhibit antibacterial, anti-cancer, and antioxidant activities. This study aims to investigate the biochemical properties of both petal (P) and core (C) fractions from pinecones of P. halepensis (PA), P. brutia (PB), and P. pinea (PP). Pinecones were manually separated into P and C, which were then milled to investigate maceration with solvents of increasing polarity: cyclohexane (1SV), ethyl acetate (2SV), and methanol (3SV) at 20 °C. Spectrophotometry was utilized to quantify the total phenolic content (TPC) and to assess bioactivities. Gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) were employed to identify the chemical composition. 3SV extracts demonstrated the highest TPC and a significant anti-oxidant potential. PA-P-3SV exhibited the highest TPC (460.66 mg GAE/g DW) and PP-P-3SV displayed the best IC50 (10.54 µg/mL) against DPPH. 1SV and 2SV extracts showed interesting anticancer activity against Hela and HepG2 cells. No significant toxic effect of P and C extracts from pinecones was observed on HEK-293 cells. GC-MS analysis unveiled 46 volatile compounds, of which 32 were detected for the first time in these species. HPLC analysis identified 38 compounds, of which 27 were not previously detected in these species. This study highlights the significant potential of pinecones as a rich source of bioactive compounds.

Mineral Water as a Sustainable Raw Material for Skincare Products and Protective Natural Antioxidant from Solar Irradiation: Stability of Vitamin C and In Vitro Antioxidant Assessments

Oxygen is crucial for life, but its reactive species, like free radicals, can damage health and accelerate aging. Antioxidants from natural and synthetic sources mitigate these effects. Kanjiža Spa’s mineral-rich thermal water is renowned for its therapeutic benefits and potential in eco-friendly pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Hence, the utilization of mineral water in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications when exposed to artificially generated free radicals under simulated solar irradiation and different experimental conditions (pH values and mineral concentrations in the thermal water) was researched. Three different dermocosmetic products designed with raw minerals and water from Kanjiža Spa were tested. Our findings confirmed the protective effect of mineral water, as evidenced by the higher stability of vitamin C in thermal water. The degradation of vitamin C was significantly reduced in the presence of mineral water, with the least degradation occurring at pH = 7, which closely matches human skin pH. These results were further validated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and ABTS tests. Overall, the obtained results underscore the therapeutic and commercial potential of Kanjiža Spa’s mineral water, suggesting that it could be a valuable ingredient in next-generation skincare and pharmaceutical products.

Exploring Microalgae Diversity in Indonesia: Harnessing Potential for Lead Bioremediation

Background: Indonesia's biodiverse microalgae, numbering 2060 species, thrive in diverse environments, offering potential in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, fuel, and heavy metal bioremediation. Lead pollution from mining poses risks, prompting stringent government contamination limits. Microalgae-based bioremediation, notably Chlamydomonas reinhardtii and Chlorella vulgaris removing up to 90% of lead, suggests further exploring Indonesia's microalgae diversity. Methods: Data sourcing (2013-2023) employed Google and Google Scholar using specific keyword combinations across Indonesian provinces. Seventy-eight sources underwent analysis and visualization via Microsoft Excel 2021. Results: Microalgae's potential as lead bioremediation was explored across classes like Chlorophyceae, Cyanophyceae, and Bacillariophyceae. Chlorophyceae, exemplified by Chlorella and Scenedesmus, exhibit varied cell sizes and complex cell walls, aiding metal ion binding. Cyanophyceae like Cyanospira capsulata and N. commune synthesize diverse EPS compositions, indicating their potential in lead remediation. Conclusions: Indonesia's microalgae diversity across habitats, especially in the Chlorophyceae and Cyanophyceae classes, suggests a significant role in lead bioremediation. Their adaptability and diverse compositions highlight their potential for sustainable practices in combatting environmental lead contamination.

Sens-ocular model: Cell-based assay to evaluate eye stinging potential of chemicals and baby cosmetic formulations.

The TRPV1 receptor, which is known to contribute significantly to pain perception, has recently been identified as a useful tool for predicting eye stinging potential in cosmetics. In this study, HEK-293 cells with high TRPV1 expression were utilized to evaluate calcium influx related to receptor activation triggered by chemicals and cosmetic formulations. The cells were exposed to increasing concentrations of substances to cause or not some aggression to the eye, and TRPV1 activity was assessed by measuring intracellular FURA-2 AM fluorescence signal. To confirm TRPV1 channel activation, capsazepine, a capsaicin antagonist, was employed in addition to using capsaicin as a positive control. The study's results indicate that this novel model can identify compounds known to cause some aggression to the eye, such as stinging, considering a cut-off value of 60% of Ca2+ influx exposed to the lowest evaluated concentration (0.00032%). When applied to the cosmetic baby formulation, although the presented model exhibited higher sensitivity by classifying as stinging formulations that had previously undergone clinical testing and were deemed non-stinging, the assay could serve as a valuable in vitro tool for predicting human eye stinging sensation and can be used as a tier 1 in an integrated testing strategy.

Preparation and characterization of a novel humanized collagen III with repeated fragments of Gly300-Asp329

Recombinant human collagens have attracted intensive interest in the past two decades, demonstrating considerable potential in medicine, tissue engineering, and cosmetics. Several humanized recombinant collagens have been produced, exhibiting similar characteristics as the native species. To get insight into the structural and bioactive properties of different parts of collagen, in this study, the segment of Gly300-Asp329 of type III collagen was first adopted and repeated 18 times to prepare a novel recombinant collagen (named rhCLA). RhCLA was successfully expressed in E. coli, and a convenient separation procedure was established through reasonably combining alkaline precipitation and acid precipitation, yielding crude rhCLA with a purity exceeding 90%. Additionally, a polishing purification step utilizing cation exchange chromatography was developed, achieving rhCLA purity surpassing 98% and an overall recovery of approximately 120 mg/L culture. Simultaneously, the contents of endotoxin, nucleic acids, and host proteins were reduced to extremely low levels. This fragmented type III collagen displayed a triple-helical structure and gel-forming capability at low temperatures. Distinct fibrous morphology was also observed through TEM analysis. In cell experiments, rhCLA exhibited excellent biocompatibility and cell adhesion properties. These results provide valuable insights for functional studies of type III collagen and a reference approach for the large-scale production of recombinant collagens.

Microbial Composition Dynamics in Peloids Used for Spa Procedures in Lithuania: Pilot Study.

Despite peloids' acknowledged therapeutic and cosmetic potential, there remains a limited understanding of their microbial diversity and dynamics, especially concerning beneficial and non-beneficial microorganisms under different heating conditions. Our study employs both cultivation and metagenomic methods to assess the microbiota of peloids, focusing on lake sapropel and peat under heating conditions recommended for external application and safety assurance. By applying microbial indicators specified in national regulatory documents, we found that all peloids reached thresholds for sulphite-reducing clostridia and colony-forming units. Each peloid exhibited a distinctive bacterial composition based on metagenomic analysis, and temperature-induced changes were observed in microbial diversity. We identified beneficial bacteria potentially contributing to the therapeutic properties of peloids. However, the same peloids indicated the presence of bacteria of human faecal origin, with a notably higher abundance of Escherichia coli, pointing to a potential source of contamination. Unfortunately, it remains unclear at which stage this contamination entered the peloids. The findings underscore the importance of monitoring and controlling microbial aspects in peloid applications, emphasising the need for measures to prevent and address contamination during their preparation and application processes.

Methylanthranilate, a Food Fragrance Attenuates Skin Pigmentation through Downregulation of Melanogenic Enzymes by cAMP Suppression.

Methyl anthranilate (MA) is a botanical fragrance used in food flavoring with unexplored potential in anti-pigment cosmetics. MA dose-dependently reduced melanin content without affecting cell viability, inhibited dendrite elongation and melanosome transfer in the co-culture system of human melanoma cells (MNT-1) and human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), and downregulated melanogenic genes, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 (TRP-1, TRP-2). Additionally, MA decreased cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) production and exhibited a significant anti-pigmentary effect in Melanoderm™. These results suggest that MA is a promising anti-pigmentary agent for replacing or complementing existing anti-pigmentary cosmetics.

Recovery of Bioactive Components from Strawberry Seeds Residues Post Oil Extraction and Their Cosmetic Potential

Recently, there has been an increased interest in the valorization of byproducts generated during fruit processing. An example of this is the waste produced during the processing of strawberries. For instance, it has been evidenced that strawberries seeds can be a valuable source of oil. The goal of this paper was to investigate the potential of strawberry seed residues after oil extraction (defatted seeds) as a source of phenolics with possible cosmetic applications. The components were recovered using water and ethanol mixture, assisted by heat, ultrasound, and microwave. The extracts were characterized through ultra-high performance liquid chromatography with spectrophotometric and mass detectors (UPLC-DAD-MS), and the biological properties of the phenolic-rich fraction were assessed using antioxidant tests and a cell viability assay on human skin fibroblasts. The study revealed that defatted strawberry seeds are rich in low molecular weight phenolics, specifically in tiliroside, kaempferol 3-glucoside, and ellagic acid. Furthermore, the phenolic-rich fraction was effective in scavenging free radicals in human skin fibroblasts and showed cytoprotective activity against oxidative stress. This evidence suggests that defatted strawberry seeds are a valuable material for further processing to obtain a beneficial additive for skincare products.

Electrokinetic-mechanism of water and furfural oxidation on pulsed laser-interlaced Cu2O and CoO on nickel foam

The electrocatalytic oxidation of biomass-derived furfural (FF) feedstocks into 2-furoic acid (FA) holds immense industrial potential in optics, cosmetics, polymers, and food. Herein, we fabricated CoO/NiO/nickel foam (NF) and Cu2O/NiO/NF electrodes via in situ pulsed laser irradiation in liquids (PLIL) for the bifunctional electrocatalysis of oxygen evolution reaction (OER) and furfural oxidation reaction (FOR), respectively. Simultaneous oxidation of NF surface to NiO and deposition of CoO and/or Cu2O on NF during PLIL offer distinct advantages for enhancing both the OER and FOR. CoO/NiO/NF electrocatalyst provides a consistently low overpotential of ∼359 mV (OER) at 10 mA/cm2, achieving the maximum FA yield (∼16.37 mM) with 61.5% selectivity, 79.5% carbon balance, and a remarkable Faradaic efficiency of ∼90.1% during 2 h of FOR at 1.43 V (vs. reversible hydrogen electrode). Mechanistic pathway via in situ electrochemical-Raman spectroscopy on CoO/NiO/NF reveals the involvement of phase transition intermediates (NiOOH and CoOOH) as surface-active centers during electrochemical oxidation. The carbonyl carbon in FF is attacked by hydroxyl groups to form unstable hydrates that subsequently undergo further oxidation to yield FA products. This method holds promise for large-scale applications, enabling simultaneous production of renewable building materials and fuel.

Anti-phototoxicity and anti-melanogenesis activities of eelgrass Zostera marina and its phenolic constituents

The eelgrass Zostera marina L. has several economic roles, from its earlier usage in the insulation industry to protecting the earth from global warming. In this study, we aimed to discover the cosmetic potential of Z. marina. A methanolic extract of Z. marina showed anti-phototoxicity and anti-melanogenesis activity with an IC50 of 17.5 μM, followed by a phytochemical analysis of its phenolic constituents. Ten compounds (1−10) were isolated by several chromatographic techniques and identified by means of nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) as well as high-resolution mass spectrometry (HR/MS). The identified compounds are caffeic acid (1), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (protocatechuic acid) (2), luteolin (3), diosmetin (4), 4-coumaroyl-4′-hydroxyl phenyllactic acid (5), rosmarinic acid (6), caffeoyl-4′-hydroxy-phenyllactic acid (isorinic acid) (7), apigenin 7-O-β-D-glucopyranoside (8), luteolin 7-O-β-D-glucopyranoside (9), and luteolin 7-sulfate (10). This is the first report to identify compounds 5 and 7 from the family Zosteraceae. The isolated compounds were assessed for their anti-aging abilities and were found to exhibit good anti-phototoxicity and anti-melanogenesis activities by increasing the viability of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells by 6% to 34% and by inhibiting melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells by 44% to 65%.

A Review on Formulation, Characterization and Applications of Nanoemulsion

This review discusses the development, manufacturing, fabrication, and manipulation of Nanoemulsions, an advanced drug delivery method that addresses the limitations of conventional systems. Nanoemulsions are biphasic dispersions of immiscible liquids, either water in oil or oil in water, stabilized by an amphiphilic surfactant. They offer various drug delivery functionalities but face challenges in stability, structure control, and characterization. Nanoemulsions, with droplet sizes of 100 nm, are kinetically stable liquid-in-liquid dispersions with high surface area, robust stability, optical transparency, and tunable rheology. These submicron-sized emulsions are being studied for drug delivery and targeting, offering potential in cosmetics, diagnostics, drug therapies, and biotechnologies. They are used in cancer treatment, drug targeting, mucosal vaccines, transdermal drug delivery, lipophilic drugs, and self-nanoemulsifying drug delivery systems. This review explores various techniques for developing and characterizing Nanoemulsions, their formation and stability theories, and their current and future applications due to their unique structures and chemistries. This review discusses the importance of optimal formulation for nano-droplet systems, focusing on droplet size, solubilization, colloidal stability, optical and rheological properties. This research focuses on the study of various techniques of preparing Nanoemulsions i.e., high energy methods and low energy methods. This study explores the best methods for formulating Nanoemulsions, their characterization, release kinetics, and application in various fields.

Antigenotoxic and cosmetic potential of elderberry (Sambucus nigra) extract: protection against oxidative DNA damage.

The integrity of the genome is under constant threat from both endogenous and exogenous factors that induce oxidative stress and accelerate ageing. The demand for natural and organic cosmetics is rising due to the harmful effects of synthetic genotoxic agents on human health and the environment. Elderberry (Sambucus nigra L.), a fruit rich in bioactive compounds such as polyphenols, has demonstrated significant antioxidant properties. This study aimed to evaluate elderberry extract's chemical characterization and biological activities in peripheral blood mononuclear cells exposed to streptonigrin and H2O2, both known for causing DNA damage. The antigenotoxic evaluation and antioxidant assays (ABTS and DPPH) were conducted to assess its biological properties. Using the Comet assay enhanced with formamidopyrimidine-DNA glycosylase (Fpg) to detect oxidized purines, we found that elderberry extract significantly reduced DNA damage. These findings suggest that elderberry has potential as a natural alternative to synthetic ingredients in cosmetics, offering protective benefits against DNA damage and contributing to anti-ageing and skin health.

Research on the application of Thelephora ganbajun exopolysaccharides in antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and spot-fading cosmetics

Thelephora ganbajun exopolysaccharides (TGEP) with a “coral-like” branched chain structure (main chain diameter ∼ 80 nm) were prepared by liquid fermentation and fractionated by ion-exchange chromatography. The main fraction (TGEP-2) with the highest in vitro antioxidant capacity was composed of Glc, Man, Gal, GalA, GlcA, Ara, Rha, GlcN, Fuc and Rib in a molar ratio of 465.43:420.43:219.14:188.43:37:35.14:31.43:19.43:11.14:1, with a molecular weight of 1.879 × 104 Da. The sequence of monosaccharide residue release revealed that Gal, Glc and Ara residues were more distributed in the side-branch chains and at their ends, whereas Man and GalA residues were more distributed in the main chains. TGEP-2 contained linear residues (mainly →4)-Glcp-(1 → and →4)-Manp-(1→), branch residues (→3,6)-Glcp-(1→, →4,6)-Glcp-(1 → and →3,6)-Galp-(1→) and terminal residues (Galp-(1→, Manp-(1 → and Glcp-(1→). TGEP-2 consisted of α- and β-glycosidically linked pyranosides, with a triple helical conformation and many long branches. Zebrafish oxidative stress and inflammation models found that TGEP-2 had antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. The zebrafish skin black spot assay showed that TGEP-2 inhibited melanin formation. Therefore, extracellular polysaccharides of T. ganbajun have strong application potential in anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin spot-fading functions cosmetics.