Cosmetic Argan Oil Research Articles

Chemical and Biochemical Features of Spinasterol and Schottenol.

Phytosterols, which are produced in plants, are structurally similar to cholesterol. Their basic structures consist of a cyclo pentano-perhydrophenanthrene nucleus composed of 3 hexane rings and of a pentane ring with an alkyl side chain. There are around more than 250 phytosterols and related compounds that have been identified in natural resources. Among them, spinasterol and schottenol, its dihydro analog, are often found in seeds, and consequently in seed oils, and in other botanical parts of some plant families such as Sapotaceae, Cactaceae, and Cucurbitaceae. Spinasterol and/or schottenol has been identified in dietary and cosmetic argan oil, milk thistle seed oil, nigella seed oil, and pumkin seed oil. These phytosterols that have several bioactive properties make them potentially attractive molecules in pharmacology. Their chemical and biochemical features are summarized and the analytical methods used to characterize and analyze these compounds are presented.

Anti-lipid peroxidation effect of essential oil from Mentha piperita leaves on cosmetic argan oil under accelerated oxidation

Anti-lipid peroxidation effect of essential oil from Mentha piperita leaves on cosmetic argan oil under accelerated oxidation

Argan Oil: Chemical Composition, Extraction Process, and Quality Control.

Argan oil is considered a relatively international product exported from Morocco, although different companies in Europe and North America distribute argan oil around the globe. Argan oil is non-refined vegetable oil, of the more well-known “virgin oil” type, is produced from the argan tree [Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels]. The argan tree is deemed to be an important forest species from both social and economic standpoints. Argan oil has rapidly emerged as an important product able to bring more income to the local population. In addition, it also has important environmental implications, owing to its ability to stand against desert progression. Currently, argan oil is mainly produced by women's cooperatives in Morocco using a semi-industrial mechanical extraction process. This allows the production of high-quality argan oil. Depending on the method used to prepare argan kernels, two types of argan oil can be obtained: food or cosmetic grade. Cosmetic argan oil is prepared from unroasted kernels, whereas food argan oil is achieved by cold pressing kernels roasted for a few minutes. Previously, the same food argan oil was prepared exclusively by women according to a laborious ancestral process. Extraction technology has been evolved to obtain high-quality argan oil at a large scale. The extraction process and several accompanying parameters can influence the quality, stability, and purity of argan oil. In view of this, the present review discusses different aspects related to argan oil chemical composition along with its nutritional and cosmetic values. Similarly, it details different processes used to prepare argan oil, as well as its quality control, oxidative stability, and authenticity assessment.

An interval regression analysis of Japanese consumer’s preference for cosmetic argan oil

An interval regression analysis of Japanese consumer’s preference for cosmetic argan oil

Interval regression analysis of the Japanese consumer’s preference for cosmetic argan oil

Interval regression analysis of the Japanese consumer’s preference for cosmetic argan oil

Effects of the heating temperature during the press extraction process on the yield and quality of cosmetic argan oil

The effects of the temperature of the heating ring of the extraction cylinder during the press extraction of argan oil from unroasted kernels on the oil extraction yield and quality were investigated. Oil extraction experiments were carried out with an Ateliers Afyach P55 mechanical screw press that had one press cylinder equipped with a heating ring located on the outlet side. Tested heating ring temperatures were 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, and 160 °C, and a medium screw rotational speed of 5 rpm was applied. The temperature was monitored during the extraction process along the cylinder and at the oil outlet. Results showed a significant effect of the cylinder heating ring temperature on the oil extraction yield; higher yields were obtained in the 80–120 °C range, with the highest values obtained at 80 °C for crude oil and clarified oil (53–55% and 47% wt/wt, respectively). At 60 °C, the oil extraction process was difficult to realize because the cylinder jammed due to the presence of a considerable amount of residue particles in the extracted oil. The measured temperatures at different points along the press cylinder during the extraction process and the temperature of the oil extracted during the process were much lower than the temperature of the heating ring. The extracted oil temperature ranged between 45 and 68 °C. In addition, even though the effects of the temperature on the monitored quality parameters (free acidity, peroxide value, and UV absorbance) were significant, all of the extracted oils were of extra virgin grade. These results imply that heating the ring of the extraction cylinder to approximately 80 °C optimizes the performance of the press and results in a high oil yield without compromising oil quality.

Fatty Acid Composition of Cosmetic Argan Oil: Provenience and Authenticity Criteria.

In this work, fatty-acid profiles, including trans fatty acids, in combination with chemometric tools, were applied as a determinant of purity (i.e., adulteration) and provenance (i.e., geographical origin) of cosmetic grade argan oil collected from different regions of Morocco in 2017. The fatty acid profiles obtained by gas chromatography (GC) showed that oleic acid (C18:1) is the most abundant fatty acid, followed by linoleic acid (C18:2) and palmitic acid (C16:0). The content of trans-oleic and trans-linoleic isomers was between 0.02% and 0.03%, while trans-linolenic isomers were between 0.06% and 0.09%. Discriminant analysis (DA) and orthogonal projection to latent structure—discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) were performed to discriminate between argan oils from Essaouira, Taroudant, Tiznit, Chtouka-Aït Baha and Sidi Ifni. The correct classification rate was highest for argan oil from the Chtouka-Aït Baha province (90.0%) and the lowest for oils from the Sidi Ifni province (14.3%), with an overall correct classification rate of 51.6%. Pairwise comparison using OPLS-DA could predictably differentiate (≥0.92) between the geographical regions with the levels of stearic (C18:0) and arachidic (C20:0) fatty acids accounting for most of the variance. This study shows the feasibility of implementing authenticity criteria for argan oils by including limit values for trans-fatty acids and the ability to discern provenance using fatty acid profiling.

The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years

The “argan oil project” is nowadays considered as an economic success that harmoniously combined sustainable development, integrated research-action and socio-economic progress. Actually, it was a long battle whose main stages are presented here. The main stages of the argan oil project include a detailed chemical study of argan oil in order to certify argan oil quality and establish an official quality norm and obtain a geographic indication, pharmacological analyses to certify cosmetic argan oil safety, and finally a strong desire to develop Moroccan rural areas by implementing women’s cooperatives and easing the women’s access to education.

Argania spinosa (L.) as a source of new and efficient green corrosion inhibitor for copper in acidic medium: a comparative study of three green compounds

The inhibition effect of three green inhibitors, Argan Oil (AO), Cosmetic Argan Oil (CAO) and Argan Hulls Extract (AHE), against copper corrosion in 2 M H3PO4 containing 3·10 M NaCl solutions were evaluated using conventional weight loss, potentiodynamic polarization, and electrochemical impedance spectroscopy. The weight loss results showed that all the three green inhibitors are excellent corrosion inhibitors, electrochemical polarizations data discovered the mixed mode of inhibition and the results of electrochemical impedance spectroscopy have shown that the change in the impedance parameters, charge transfer resistance and double layer capacitance, with the change in concentration of the inhibitors employed is due to the adsorption of the molecule leading to the formation of a protective layer on the surface of copper. The values of the inhibition efficiency calculated from these techniques are in reasonably good agreement.

The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity.

BackgroundDuring menopause, the decrease of estrogenic secretion induces the disruption of skin functioning, thus causing the decline in skin elasticity characteristic of skin aging. The purpose of this study was to evaluate in postmenopausal women the effect of daily consumption and/or application of argan oil on skin elasticity.Materials and methodsSixty postmenopausal women consumed butter during the stabilization period and were randomly divided into two groups for the intervention period: the treatment group of 30 participants received dietary argan oil, the control group of 30 participants received olive oil, and both groups applied cosmetic argan oil in the left volar forearm during a 60-day period. Assessments of skin elasticity parameters, ie, the three R-parameters (R2 or gross-elasticity of the skin, R5 or net elasticity of the skin, and R7 or biological elasticity), and the resonance running time (RRT) at both volar forearms of the two groups were performed during three visits: before starting oils consumption and application, after 30 days of oils consumption and application, and after 60 days of oils consumption and application.ResultsThe consumption of argan oil led to a significant increase of gross-elasticity of the skin (R2) (P<0.001), net elasticity of the skin (R5) (P<0.001), biological elasticity (R7) (P<0.001), and a significant decrease of RRT (P=0.002). The application of argan oil led to a significant increase of gross-elasticity of the skin (R2) (P<0.001), net elasticity of the skin (R5) (P<0.001), biological elasticity (R7) (P=0.001), and a significant decrease of RRT (P<0.001).ConclusionOur findings suggest that the daily consumption and/or topical application of argan oil have an anti-aging effect on the skin demonstrated by the improvement of skin elasticity, characterized by an increase of R-parameters (R2, R5, and R7) and a decrease of RRT.

Kinetic parameter determination of roasted and unroasted argan oil oxidation under Rancimat test conditions

The present study investigated the Kinetic parameter determination of edible argan oil (coldpressed from roasted argan kernels) and cosmetic argan oil (cold-pressed from unroasted argan kernels) under the Rancimat test conditions. The physicochemical parameters of edible and cosmetic argan oil immediately after preparation and after accelerated oxidation test Rancimat at different temperatures 90 °C, 100 °C, 110 °C, 120 °C, 130 °C and 140 °C were determined and compared. The natural logarithms of the kinetic rate constant (kvalue) varied linearly with respect to temperature. An increasing rate of oxidation could be observed as temperature increased. On the basis of the Arrhenius equation and the activated complex theory, frequency factors A, activation energies Ea, Q10 numbers, activation enthalpies ΔH, and activation entropies ΔS for oxidative stability of the vegetable oils were calculated. The accelerated oxidation and Kinetic parameters have shown that edible argan oil can be stored much better than cosmetic oil.

Skin hydration in postmenopausal women: argan oil benefit with oral and/or topical use.

The aim of this studyThe aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of daily consumption and/or application of argan oil on skin hydration in postmenopausal women.Material and methodsSixty postmenopausal women consumed butter during the stabilization period and were randomly divided into two groups for the intervention period: the treatment group absorbed alimentary argan oil (n = 30) and the control group olive oil (n = 30). Both groups applied cosmetic argan oil in the left volar forearm during a sixty days’ period. Evaluation of skin hydration, i.e. transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water content of the epidermis (WCE) on both volar forearms of the two groups, were performed during three visits at D0, D30 and after sixty days (D60) of oils treatment.ResultsThe consumption of argan oil has led to a significant decrease in TEWL (p = 0.023) and a significant increase in WCE (p = 0.001). The application of argan oil has led to a significant decrease in TEWL (p = 0.01) and a significant increase in WCE (p < 0.001).ConclusionsOur findings suggest that the daily consumption and application of argan oil have improved the skin hydration by restoring the barrier function and maintaining the water-holding capacity.

Quality of Cosmetic Argan Oil Extracted by Supercritical Fluid Extraction from Argania spinosa L.

Argan oil has been extracted using supercritical CO2. The influence of the variables pressure (100, 200, 300, and 400 bar) and temperature (35, 45, 55°C) was investigated. The best extraction yields were achieved at a temperature of 45°C and a pressure of 400 bar. The argan oil extracts were characterized in terms of acid, peroxide and iodine values, total tocopherol, carotene, and fatty acids content. Significant compositional differences were not observed between the oil samples obtained using different pressures and temperatures. The antioxidant capacity of the argan oil samples was high in comparison to those of walnut, almond, hazelnut, and peanut oils and comparable to that of pistachio oil. The physicochemical parameters of the extracted oils obtained by SFE, Soxhlet, and traditional methods are comparable. The technique used for oil processing does not therefore markedly alter the quality of argan oil.

Argan oil and other argan products: Use in dermocosmetology

AbstractArgan oil is of food or cosmetic (INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil) grade. During the past 15 years cosmetic argan oil, as beauty oil or cosmetic ingredient, has become one of the major actors in the dermocosmetic field. Beauty argan oil is produced by cold‐pressing argan‐fruit kernels. As a cosmetic ingredient, argan oil is produced by solvent‐assisted extraction of the finely crushed kernels. Enriched‐argan oil which is produced by distillation of cosmetic argan oil can be supplemented with antioxidants. Hence, it presents an even better cosmetic potential. Argan fruit pulp and argan leaves also contain proteins, peptides, saponins and other chemicals presenting highly interesting dermocosmetics. Therefore, the argan tree (A. spinosa) is sometimes nicknamed A. cosmetosa. We comprehensively review the current knowledge (literature and patent) related to argan oil and argan tree products in the dermocosmetic domain.

Colorimetric Evaluation of Phenolic Content and GC-MS Characterization of Phenolic Composition of Alimentary and Cosmetic Argan Oil and Press Cake

The global phenolic content of argan oil and press cake samples (alimentary and cosmetic) was evaluated using the Folin-Ciocalteu colorimetric method and the phenolic composition of argan oil (alimentary and cosmetic) and press cake (alimentary) samples were analyzed by GC-MS after extraction with 80:20 (v/v) methanol:water and silylation. Identification of chromatographic peaks was made by mass selective detection. Nineteen simple phenols were detected, 16 in press cake, 6 in the alimentary oil, and 7 in the cosmetic oil, among which 15 compounds [3-hydroxypyridine (3-pyridinol), 6-methyl-3-hydroxypyridine, catechol, resorcinol, 4-hydroxybenzyl alcohol, vanillin, 4-hydroxyphenylacetic acid, vanillyl alcohol, 3,4-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenethyl alcohol, methyl 3,4-dihydroxybenzoate, hydroxytyrosol, protocatechuic acid, epicatechin, and catechin] were identified for the first time in such materials.