Cosmeceutical Ingredients Research Articles

Potential of Coffee Cherry Pulp Extract against Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons in Air Pollution Induced Inflammation and Oxidative Stress for Topical Applications.

Airborne particulate matter (PM) contains polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) as primary toxic components, causing oxidative damage and being associated with various inflammatory skin pathologies such as premature aging, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. Coffee cherry pulp (CCS) extract, rich in chlorogenic acid, caffeine, and theophylline, has demonstrated strong antioxidant properties. However, its specific anti-inflammatory effects and ability to protect macrophages against PAH-induced inflammation remain unexplored. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory properties of CCS extract on RAW 264.7 macrophage cells exposed to atmospheric PAHs, compared to chlorogenic acid (CGA), caffeine (CAF), and theophylline (THP) standards. The CCS extract was assessed for its impact on the production of nitric oxide (NO) and expression of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), interleukin-6 (IL-6), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2). Results showed that CCS extract exhibited significant antioxidant activities and effectively inhibited protease and lipoxygenase (LOX) activities. The PAH induced the increase in intracellular reactive oxygen species, NO, TNF-α, IL-6, iNOS, and COX-2, which were markedly suppressed by CCS extract in a dose-dependent manner, comparable to the effects of chlorogenic acid, caffeine, and theophylline. In conclusion, CCS extract inhibits PAH-induced inflammation by reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in RAW 264.7 cells. This effect is likely due to the synergistic effects of its bioactive compounds. Chlorogenic acid showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, while caffeine and theophylline enhanced anti-inflammatory activity. CCS extract did not irritate the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane. Therefore, CCS extract shows its potential as a promising cosmeceutical ingredient for safely alleviating inflammatory skin diseases caused by air pollution.

Bioactives of the Freshwater Aquatic Plants, Nelumbo nucifera and Lemna minor, for Functional Foods, Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical Applications, with Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Antithrombotic Health Promoting Properties

Despite significant progress, certain inflammation related to chronic disorders, including cardiovascular diseases (CVD) and cancer, still present high mortality rates. Thus, further study is needed to address such pathologies more appropriately. Apart from classic therapeutics, natural bioactives with less toxic side effects have gained attention, including those with potential pharmaceutical properties derived from several plants. Within this article, the potential utilization of freshwater aquatic plants as sources of bioactives with antithrombotic, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties is outlined. Emphasis is given to a well-established aquatic plant with known but not fully clarified and overviewed bio-functional and pharmaceutical properties, the Chinese lotus (Nelumbo nucifera), as well as to a so far neglected aquatic plant, Lemna minor, which has not yet been thoroughly reviewed for such applications. The latent usually grows naturally in large numbers at the surface of stored water basins of retrieved water from the last stages of wastewater treatment facilities. The continuous growth of this aquatic plant in such conditions further suggests that it can be a sustainable source of natural bioactives, if appropriately valorized, with an economic benefit and in a friendly environmental approach. The abundant content of both freshwater aquatic plants in bioactive components with potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antithrombotic activities is thoroughly outlined, while their applications as functional ingredients in several functional products (functional foods, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals) are also discussed. The outlined outcomes urge further study of both aquatic plants and especially of Lemna spp. to fully elucidate their potential as alternative sustainable sources of bioactive ingredients for functional foods, supplements, nutraceuticals, nutricosmetics, cosmeceuticals, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products with health-promoting properties against inflammation and thrombosis related manifestations and their associated chronic disorders.

Plant Essential Oil Nanoemulgel as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient: A Review

Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their high volatility often poses a challenge to the transdermal delivery of their bioactive constituents. Additionally, the direct application of pure EOs on the skin may result in irritating effects. Hence, various novel carrier systems have been explored for the topical application of EOs. Among these, nanoemulgel has received particular attention from the cosmeceutical industry. It is a hybrid technology combining nanoemulsion and a gelling phase, which can enhance the bioadhesivity of EOs, at the same time minimizing their irritating effects. This review summarizes the methods of EO extraction, steps and factors influencing the preparation of EO nanoemulgel, and characterization parameters for nanoemulgel studies. The potential cosmeceutical applications of EO nanoemulgels as an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and penetration enhancer are also compiled and discussed.

Prenylated flavonoids from Sophora flavescens inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity and modulate melanogenesis in murine melanoma cells and zebrafish.

Background: Sophora flavescens, a traditional Chinese medicine for treating conditions associated with abnormal skin pigmentation, contains flavonoids with inhibitory effects on tyrosinase. However, their mechanisms of action and their modulatory effects on melanogenesis remain unclear. Methods: Herein, a group of prenylated flavonoids was identified from S. flavescens extracts and their inhibitory activities on mushroom tyrosinase were evaluated. The anti-melanogenesis effects of these prenylated flavonoids were investigated in cellular (with murine melanoma cells) and animal (with zebrafish) models. Results: Prenylated flavonoids including isoanhydroicaritin (IAI), kurarinone (KR), and sophoraflavanone G (SG) were the major active constituents in S. flavescens extracts with anti-tyrosinase activity (IC50 = 0.7, 7.1, and 6.7μM, respectively). Enzyme kinetic assays showed that IAI, KR, and SG had a mixed type of tyrosinase inhibition, supported by data from computational docking. Notably, KR at concentrations of 5 and 10μM enhanced intracellular tyrosinase activity and stimulated melanin production in B16F10 cells, whereas SG and IAI did not exhibit significant activity. Further studies with the zebrafish model showed that IAI (80 and 160μM) inhibited melanin biosynthesis by about 30.0% while KR (20μM) stimulated melanogenesis by 36.9%. Furthermore, a zebrafish depigmentation model supported the anti-melanogenesis effect of IAI (80 and 160μM) by 33.0% and 34.4%, respectively. Conclusion: In summary, IAI was identified as a tyrosinase inhibitor with an anti-melanogenic effect and KR was an enhancer for melanin production in B16F10 cells and zebrafish. Findings from the current study suggest that IAI and KR from S. flavescens may exert contrasting effects in the modulation of melanin production, providing important insights into the development of S. flavescens as a cosmeceutical or medicinal ingredient.

Innovative Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Harnessing Selenosugar-Linked Hydroxycinnamic Acids for Antioxidant and Wound-Healing Properties.

Selenosugars are gaining growing interest due to their antioxidant efficacy, and their ability to inhibit glycosidases, repair skin tissue or reduce endothelial dysfunction. Among selenosugars, those in which selenium replaces heterocyclic oxygen in a 5-membered sugar were our focus, and their coupling with phenolic compounds appears to be a strategy aimed at producing new compounds with enhanced antioxidant efficacy. In this context, the Mitsunobu reaction has been advantageously explored to obtain trans-p-coumaroyl-1,4-deoxy-2,3-O-isopropylidene-4-seleno-d-ribose, trans-caffeoyl-1,4-deoxy-2,3-O-isopropylidene-4-seleno-d-ribose, and trans-feruloyl-1,4-deoxy-2,3-O-isopropylidene-4-seleno-d-ribose. These compounds underwent removal of the iso-propylidene group, to provide the corresponding hydroxycinnamoyl-1,4-deoxy-4-seleno-d-ribose. All compounds were characterized by Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy and High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry (HRMS). This latter technique was pivotal for ensuing cellular metabolomics analyses. In fact, after evaluating the anti-radical efficacy through 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) methods, which underline the massive role of the phenolic moiety in establishing efficacy, the compounds, whose cytotoxicity was first screened in two highly oxidative-stress-sensitive cells, were tested for their wound healing properties towards human HaCaT keratinocytes cells. Caffeoyl- and feruloyl selenosugars exerted a dose-dependent repair activity, while, as highlighted by the metabolomic approach, they were poorly taken up within the cells.

Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of 2'-Hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone in B16F10 and RAW264.7 Cells.

Chalcone is a type of flavonoid compound that is widely biosynthesized in plants. Studies have shown that consuming flavonoids from fruits and vegetables or applying individual ingredients reduces the risk of skin disease. However, the effects of chalcone on melanogenesis and inflammation have not been fully investigated. The aim of this study was to evaluate the anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of 2'-hydroxy-3,4'-dimethoxychalcone (3,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxychalcone (4,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-3',4'-dimethoxychalcone (3',4'-DMC), and 2'-hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone (4',6'-DMC). Among the derivatives of 2'-hydroxy-4'-methoxychalcone, 4',6'-DMC demonstrated the most potent melanogenesis-inhibitory and anti-inflammatory effects. As evidenced by various biological assays, 4',6'-DMC showed no cytotoxicity and notably decreased the expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 enzymes. Furthermore, it reduced cellular melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), β-catenin, glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK3β), and protein kinase B (AKT) proteins, while upregulating extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and p-β-catenin. Additionally, treatment with 4',6'-DMC significantly mitigated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced expression of NO, PGE2, inflammatory cytokines, COX-2, and iNOS proteins. Overall, 4',6'-DMC treatment notably alleviated LPS-induced damage by reducing nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), p38, JNK protein levels, and NF-kB/p65 nuclear translocation. Finally, the topical applicability of 4',6'-DMC was evaluated in a preliminary human skin irritation test and no adverse effects were found. These findings suggest that 4',6'-DMC may offer new possibilities for use as functional ingredients in cosmeceuticals and ointments.

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro.

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

Overview of popular cosmeceuticals in dermatology.

The eternal pursuit to prevent ageing and maintain a youthful appearance has resulted in a rapidly expanding cosmeceutical industry. Cosmeceutical products, particularly of natural origin, are in high demand due to claims of efficacy for signs of ageing and other skin conditions. Consumers often include cosmeceutical products in their skin care regime as they are readily available, and a more affordable option compared to prescription products. However, many cosmeceutical ingredients lack clinical evidence regarding their efficacy and safety as these products are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. This review provides a brief overview of several popular cosmeceutical ingredients with regards to their potential indications, targets and mechanisms of action.

Algal cellulose reinforced polyvinyl alcohol composite hydrogel with controlled niacinamide release for cosmeceutical applications

Niacinamide, a multi-functional cosmeceutical ingredient, has been extensively formulated in skincare products. To enhance the efficacy of niacinamide penetration into the skin, numerous hybrid hydrogels and drug delivery systems have been extensively developed as carriers for efficient entrapment and release of niacinamide. However, the mechanical properties and limited capacity of achieving high loading and sustained drug release are predominantly determined by synthetic polymers. Hence, it becomes imperative to develop innovative hybrid materials. Here, we successfully fabricated algal cellulose/Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) composite hydrogels by employing cellulose extracted from Cladophora spp. and Ulva spp. through alkaline treatment. The physiochemical characteristics and properties of the composite hydrogels including niacinamide entrapment and release efficiency were examined. The results found that reinforcing PVA with algal cellulose resulted in a reduction in pore size with an increase in both number and distribution. The reinforcement also led to enhanced thermal stability and improved swelling properties. The Ulva cellulose/PVA composite hydrogel exhibited a higher swelling ratio and encapsulation efficiency compared to Cladophora cellulose/PVA composite hydrogel. Furthermore, the results of release kinetics confirmed that the Ulva cellulose/PVA composite hydrogel showed the most effective mechanism of niacinamide release from hydrogel, transitioning from non-Fickian to Fickian model. This suggests that it is a suitable material for niacinamide delivery as a cosmeceutical ingredient via the transdermal route. This study implies that the Ulva cellulose/PVA composite hydrogel could serve as a promising vehicle for niacinamide delivery across the skin.

Application of integrated skincare in medical aesthetics: A literature review.

Integrated skincare combines clinically proven skincare products with professional medical aesthetics to provide a comprehensive solution for beauty pursuers. Studies have demonstrated that a combination of medical aesthetic procedures and maintenance therapies is more effective than either treatment alone. This review outlines the current applications of integrated skincare, including different regimens of energy-based aesthetic devices and active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or chemical peels. Additionally, the benefits and limitations of integrated skincare are discussed. Lastly, this review highlights the potential for improved satisfaction and long-term maintenance of the desired outcomes through appropriate integrated skincare procedures.

Vitamin A: It's role in cosmeceuticals for antiaging

AbstractTopical retinoids are among the most well‐studied and widely used cosmeceutical ingredients. Topical retinoids have skin rejuvenating benefits and can soften fine lines and wrinkles, lighten mottled hyperpigmentation, improve skin roughness, sallowness, and overall appearance of photoaged skin. Retinoic acid or tretinoin remains favored among dermatologists because there are a plethora of well‐designed clinical trials confirming its efficacy as a topical therapy for treating aging skin. In contrast, cosmeceutical retinoids are regulated as cosmetics and in general are not subjected to the same degree of scientific rigor as prescription retinoids. Despite this difference, there are studies confirming the antiaging benefits of cosmeceutical retinoids and studies comparing their efficacy and tolerability to tretinoin. This review will focus on over‐the‐counter retinoids including retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters, adapalene, and novel retinoid molecules. Studies on pharmacokinetics, mechanisms of action, clinical benefits, and tolerability will be reviewed.

A Cost-Based Analysis of Anti-aging Products Across Four Major United States Retailers.

Background In the field of aesthetic dermatology, there is currently very little data on affordability and cost analysis regarding cosmeceuticals as more demand from patients showing interest in cosmeceutical products to reduce and prevent aging continues to grow.Photoaging, a form of extrinsic aging from sun exposure, can be ameliorated by applying sunscreen and retinol products. Topical ascorbic acid and niacinamide have been shown to target the oxidative stress process that contributes to photoaging.These four products have been identified as the cosmeceutical ingredients with the most evidence-based data on photoaging prevention and treatment. Objective Given the demand for effective skin care,the paucity of data on cost differentiation, and the availability of cosmeceutical products, we analyzed the unit cost offour anti-aging products from major online and physical retailers in the United States. Such a cost comparison may facilitate more economically appropriate recommendations on skin care to consumers. Methods and materials We analyzed sunscreen, topical vitamin C (ascorbic acid), topical vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and topical vitamin A (retinol) products sold by four major United States retailers: Walmart, Ulta, Walgreens, and Amazon. The average cost in dollars per ounce (dollar/oz) was calculated for each product category at each retailer. Statistical analyses were done to determine statistical significance for each product category between retailers as well as between each category of product. Results Between the four retailers, Walmart offered the lowest cost per ounce for every product. In contrast, Amazon offered the highest cost per ounce for every product except for sunscreen. We also found that sunscreen products are less expensive per ounce as compared to retinol, ascorbic acid, and niacinamide products. Conclusion Dermatologists should be knowledgeable of product costs when providing patients with anti-aging product recommendations. Our study provides data on the financial cost by retail location of evidence-based anti-aging cosmeceuticals to better guide physicians in patient consulting and economical resource sharing.

Potential role of the cell-penetrating peptide-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2-patterned peptide in novel cosmeceutical skin product development.

This study aimed to investigate and verify the effect of cell-penetrating peptide (CPP)-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2)-patterned peptide (INCI name: Acetyl sh-Oligopeptide-26 sh-Oligopeptide-27 SP, trade name: M.Biome-BT) on improving skin function in vitro. The cytotoxicity of CPP-conjugated SNARE motif of VAMP2-patterned peptide (CVP) was investigated using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay against B16-F10 cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a reconstructed skin irritation test. The anti-wrinkle activity of M.Biome-BT was determined by assessing the release of norepinephrine and dopamine in PC-12 cells via ELISA. The skin-whitening effects of CVP were assessed in B16-F10 cells by measuring the intra- and extracellular melanin contents and expression levels of melanin production-related genes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. CVP is not cytotoxic to B16-F10 cells and HDFs, and no skin irritation was observed. CVP treatment considerably diminished K+ -induced norepinephrine and dopamine secretion compared with the non-treated control group (62% and 40%, respectively). Additionally, the inhibition ability of CVP on norepinephrine and dopamine release was comparable to that of botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT/A). CVP also increased intracellular melanin content in a dose-dependent manner, whereas extracellular melanin content decreased (76%-85%). However, CVP treatment did not affect the mRNA expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. These results suggest that CVP does not inhibit melanin production; however, it may induce a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin transport. Taken together, our findings indicate that CVP could be used as an active and safe cosmeceutical ingredient for antiaging applications.

Bacillus subtilis Fermentation Augments the Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Moisture Improvement Activities of Tetragonia tetragonoides through the Upregulation of Antioxidant Components

This study demonstrates that the fermentation of Tetragonia tetragonioides (T. tetragonioides) by Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis) subsp. spizizenii enhances its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-moisturizing activities. Fermented T. tetragonioides extracts (FTEs) showed a significant increase (p < 0.05) of approximately 1.3 to 3.07 times in their total polyphenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and vanillic acid content compared to pre-fermentation T. tetragonioides extracts (TEs). Additionally, the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)- and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical-scavenging activities were significantly higher (p < 0.05) in FTEs than in TEs, showing an increase of about 1.25 to 1.64 times. The anti-inflammatory effects, evaluated through the inhibition of nitric oxide (NO) in RAW 264.7 cells stimulated by lipopolysaccharide (LPS), revealed that FTEs exhibited significant (p < 0.05) NO inhibition activity at less than half the concentration of TEs. It is particularly noteworthy that the FTE at 200 μg/mL significantly suppressed the expression of the cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) proteins. In HaCaT cells, FTEs substantially (p < 0.001) increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin (FLG), hyaluronan synthase (HAS)-1, and HAS-3, indicating improved skin protection and moisturization. In conclusion, this study confirms that T. tetragonioides’ antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-moisturizing activities are enhanced by B. subtilis fermentation, suggesting the potential of FTEs as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

LC-MS profiling-based non-targeted secondary metabolite screening for deciphering cosmeceutical potential of Malaysian algae.

Application of natural resources from the marine environment in the cosmeceutical industry is gaining great attention. This study pursues to discover the cosmeceutical potential of two Malaysian algae, Sargassum sp. and Kappaphycus sp. by determining their antioxidant capacity and assessing the presence of their secondary metabolites with cosmeceutical potential using non-targeted metabolite profiling. Metabolite profiling using Quadrupole Time-of-Flight (Q-TOF) liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) in the Electrospray Ionization (ESI) mode resulted in 110 putative metabolites in Sargassum sp. and 47 putative metabolites in Kappaphycus sp. and were grouped according to their functions. To the best of our knowledge, the bioactive compounds of both algae have not been studied in any great detail. This is the first report to explore their cosmeceutical potential. Six antioxidants were detected in Sargassum sp., including fucoxanthin, (3S, 4R, 3'R)-4-Hydroxyalloxanthin, enzacamene N-stearoyl valine, 2-hydroxy-hexadecanoic acid, and metalloporphyrins. Meanwhile, three antioxidants detected in Kappahycus sp., namely Tanacetol A, 2-fluoro palmitic acid and idebenone metabolites. Three antioxidants are found in both algae species, namely, 3-tert-Butyl-5-methylcatechol, (-)-isoamijiol, and (6S)-dehydrovomifoliol. Anti-inflammatory metabolites such as 5(R)-HETE, protoverine, phytosphingosine, 4,5-Leukotriene-A4, and 5Z-octadecenoic acid were also found in both species. Sargassum sp. possesses higher antioxidant capacity as compared to Kappahycus sp. which may be linked to its number of antioxidant compounds found through LC-MS. Hence, our results conclude that Malaysian Sargassum sp. and Kappaphycus sp. are potential natural cosmeceutical ingredients as we aim to produce algae cosmeceutical products using native algae.

The Application of Nanotechnology in Natural Cosmeceuticals

With the continuous improvement of people's economic level and the maturity of consumption concepts, natural cosmeceuticals (with therapeutic effects) have received more and more attention, which has prompted the innovative development of the cosmeceuticals industry. Natural ingredients derived from plants and the marine have attracted the attention of scientists for their sustainability and less skin irritation. These ingredients, along with low skin penetration and instability, influence formulation development. Nanotechnology is used to help improve the shortcomings of natural ingredients such as instability in formulations. However, the toxicity of nanotechnology and regulatory gaps have also raised concerns and potential concerns among consumers. This paper provides an overview of potential active ingredients in botanical and marine cosmeceuticals and how they can improve formulation innovation under the action of different nano delivery systems. Relevant literature from pub med, web of science, and other websites are studied to corroborate the most recent trends in the development of cosmeceuticals and the most recent advancements in industry regulation. As a result, a key area of research for scientists continues to be how to enhance formulations while creating natural nano-cosmeceuticals to allay consumers' worries about toxicity.

Review of the Effects of Tremella fuciformis Berk Extract as a Functional Phytochemical

Tremella fuciformis (T. fuciformiss) Berk is an edible and medical fungus that has been used as a traditional food and medicine throughout Asia. T. fuciformis Berk studies have been conducted in various ways, including neuroprotection related to memory and learning ability, anticancer efficacy, and efficacy for restoring and maintaining elevated cholesterol and blood sugar levels. Furthermore, T. fuciformis Berk’s importance has also been on the rise since the extracts derived from natural products have recently been in the limelight for safety and environmental protection as functional ingredients for cosmetics. Moreover, numerous studies have investigated T. fuciformis Berk’s activities on skin care. Due to these diverse bioactivities, the recent research has been focused on the usability of T. fuciformis Berk extract as a novel phytochemical. This article aimed to organize T. fuciformis Berk’s comprehensive effects, emphasizing its value as a useful phytochemical. T. fuciformis Berk would be remarkably effective in protecting the skin based on its functional activities such as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. It is thus anticipated that T. fuciformis Berk would be a valuable cosmeceutical ingredient in medical and cosmetics industries in the future.

Neurog1-Derived Peptides RMNE1 and DualPep-Shine Penetrate the Skin and Inhibit Melanin Synthesis by Regulating MITF Transcription

Anti-pigmentation peptides have been developed as alternative skin-lightening agents to replace conventional chemicals that have adverse effects on the skin. However, the maximum size of these peptides is often limited by their low skin and cell penetration. To address this issue, we used our intra-dermal delivery technology (IDDT) platform to identify peptides with hypo-pigmenting and high cell-penetrating activity. Using our cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) from the IDDT platform, we identified RMNE1 and its derivative RMNE3, "DualPep-Shine", which showed levels of α-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin inhibition comparable to the conventional tyrosinase inhibitor, Kojic acid. In addition, DualPep-Shine was delivered into the nucleus and regulated the gene expression levels of melanogenic enzymes by inhibiting the promoter activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor-M (MITF-M). Using a 3D human skin model, we found that DualPep-Shine penetrated the lower region of the epidermis and reduced the melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, DualPep-Shine showed high safety with little immunogenicity, indicating its potential as a novel cosmeceutical ingredient and anti-pigmentation therapeutic agent.

Anti-wrinkle and Moisturizing Activity of Echinacea angustifolia Extract as a Cosmetic ingredient

Purpose: Echinacea angustifolia (E. angustifolia) extract’s usefulness as a cosmetic ingredient was examined. This study confirmed its skin improvement effects through a moisturizing and elasticity test and clinical trials.Methods: Cell ability of E. angustifolia on HaCaT and CCD986sk cells was measured by MTT assay respectively. And hyaluronic acid in HaCaT cells and pro-collagen acid productions in CCD986sk cells were measured.Results: As a result of the cytotoxicity test on CCD986sk and HaCaT cells, it was confirmed that there was no cytotoxicity at a concentration of 200 μg/mL or less. At a concentration of 200 μg/mL, both hyaluronic acid and collagen productions showed statistically significant differences. Meanwhile, the skin improvement test performed in the clinical trials revealed high scores compared to a control group and a significant difference was observed especially in moisturizing and wrinkle-care effects (p <0.001, p <0.01).Conclusion: With the potential of E. angustifolia extract, this study confirmed its promise as a cosmeceutical cosmetics ingredient.

Physicochemical properties and protective effects on UVA-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells of Pleurotus ostreatus polysaccharides by fractional precipitation

The development of natural ingredients protecting skin from UVA-induced photoaging is widely expected. The present study investigated the physicochemical properties, antioxidant, moisturizing, collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities, and protective effect on UVA-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells of Pleurotus ostreatus polysaccharides (POPs). POP-40, POP-60, and POP-80 were extracted by gradient precipitation of 40 %, 60 %, and 80 % ethanol, which could be prepared in large quantities. The results showed that POPs had good DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging abilities, water retention capacity, and collagenase and elastase inhibition effects. POP-80 had the best efficacy. Further determined the anti-inflammatory and antisenescence activities of POPs in Hs68 cells. The results indicated that after UVA irradiation, the contents of ROS, senescent cells, NF-κB activity, and proinflammatory cytokines increased in Hs68 cells. However, cells pretreated with 50 μg/mL POPs significantly decreased the contents of ROS and the number of senescent cells, reduced NF-κB activity, and inhibited IL-6 and TNF-α production. There was no significant difference in reducing the accumulation of ROS and senescent cells between POP-80 and the common anti-inflammatory substance quercetin. The results suggested that POP-80 may be potential cosmeceutical ingredients as it can protect Hs68 cells from photodamage.