Contemporary Fashion Research Articles

Effect of Traditional Textile Techniques on Modern Fashion Design in Nigeria

Purpose: The aim of the study was to analyze the effect of traditional textile techniques on modern fashion design in Nigeria. Methodology: This study adopted a desk methodology. A desk study research design is commonly known as secondary data collection. This is basically collecting data from existing resources preferably because of its low cost advantage as compared to a field research. Our current study looked into already published studies and reports as the data was easily accessed through online journals and libraries. Findings: Traditional textile techniques in Nigeria, such as adire (tie-dye), akwete weaving, and aso-oke fabric, have significantly influenced modern fashion design. These indigenous methods, known for their intricate patterns and vibrant colors, are increasingly incorporated into contemporary fashion by Nigerian designers. The use of traditional techniques adds cultural depth and authenticity, appealing to both local and international audiences. Modern designers blend these age-old methods with contemporary styles, creating innovative and unique fashion pieces that reflect Nigeria’s rich heritage. This fusion has not only revitalized traditional craftsmanship but also positioned Nigeria as a global hub for Afrocentric fashion. Unique Contribution to Theory, Practice and Policy: Cultural identity theory, sustainable fashion theory & brand equity theory may be used to anchor future studies on the effect of traditional textile techniques on modern fashion design in Nigeria. Fashion designers should collaborate with local artisans who specialize in traditional textile techniques. Policymakers should develop initiatives that support artisanal communities involved in traditional textile production.

Ornamental Patterns of Contemporary Indonesian Batik: Clothing for Strengthening the Articulation of Appearance Characteristics

Batik is a significant aspect of Javanese and Indonesia culture, celebrated for its complex motifs, rich history, and deep cultural values. The research method used is qualitative research based on exploration and explanation supported with Iconographical Analysis and Elegant Design Theory. UNESCO’s recognition of batik as a world culture heritage, has led to a revival in interest and respect for this art form in Indonesia. Historically, batik was reserved for the nobility, but nowadays, it has evolved into national attire with contemporary significance. The focus of this study is to position batik as not only a traditional work of art that has developed into contemporary fashion, but also contains various ethical and aesthetic boundaries as a reflection of the intelligence of clothing culture. Contemporary batik is seen as a medium that can enhance the wearer’s appearance. Several characteristics of a person’s appearance that can be strengthened based on batik ornamental patterns are authoritative, openness, responsible, dynamic, and simplicity. This pattern is actualised in fashion design with a format resembling the letters or punctuation marks of Y, +, \, Z, and I.

A Study on Fake Out-of-Home Advertising of Contemporary Fashion Converged with Short-Form

A Study on Fake Out-of-Home Advertising of Contemporary Fashion Converged with Short-Form

Cross-cultural design in costume: case study on totemic symbols of China and Thailand

Cross-cultural design has emerged as a pivotal domain of significance within the context of globalization. In the field of cross-cultural design, designers are tasked with addressing user requirements and identity characteristic contexts across diverse cultural backgrounds, aiming to achieve enhanced service delivery and cultural dissemination outcomes. Nonetheless, the landscape of contemporary fashion design research exhibits a noticeable dearth in studies that effectively integrate with cross-cultural design. This study selects the iconic cultural symbols of the Chinese loong (dragon) and Thai naga as case subjects, embarking upon research that employs costume design as a medium and bridge for cross-cultural design and communication. The research methodology integrates qualitative and quantitative approaches, including field investigations, participatory research, and Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) analysis, thereby substantiating theoretical constructs through empirical investigation. The study proposes that cross-cultural costume design, undertaken with the purpose of cross-cultural communication, can be conceptualized as a cyclical process involving multiple encoding and decoding iterations. The research elaborates on how costume, functioning as a non-verbal language, serve as a medium for facilitating cross-cultural interactions. Furthermore, the design extraction of cultural symbols is approached through a four-tiered framework. By articulating its research perspective, methodologies, and design cases, this study contributes valuable insights to researchers and practitioners engaged in cross-cultural design and related fields.

Comparison of actual and virtual pressure of athletic clothing in active poses

PurposeThe circular design process in contemporary fashion design, from two-dimensional (2D) sketching and pattern making to three-dimensional (3D) prototypes, can be facilitated by virtual prototyping. Virtual pressure representations on avatars provide visual and quantitative information regarding garment fit and comfort, which are particularly important for active wear. The purpose of this study is to investigate the benefits of using avatars in active poses from 3D body scans and the use of digital 3D tools for the design process and the prediction of fit of active wear.Design/methodology/approachThis research initially explores virtual fit of cycling wear in active poses and compares the actual pressure values from humans with virtual pressure maps on custom avatars made from body scans in cycling poses across a range of sizes.FindingsSimilar fit results were achieved visually in both the standing and cycling poses. However, the comparisons showed no correlation between the actual and virtual pressure data. Of the 32 cases representing different combinations of the parameters of this research (four sizes, two garment types, four active poses), the differences were significant. The results suggest that, rather than providing a direct correlation with pressure values on the body, the main value of avatar data is in providing comparative visual support for fit evaluation.Originality/valueThe approach taken in this research, which considers the active pose and the size range, potentially contributes to the improvement of virtual fit technology, and its more effective use in apparel product development and fit evaluation.

Development of Local Cultural Woven Textile Product to Contemporary Fashion Product

This research has purpose to take local woven or “Pahkahmah” which is a cultural product of the local woven of Nong Kao district in Kanchanaburi province of Thailand to develop for and applying with contemporary fashion design in order to increase its value. The process of creation in this research has 5 steps as 1. Create concept and inspiration 2. Design collections for the improved textiles 3. Create decoration technique for the improved textile and collections 4. Create the prototype collections and products 5. Evaluate satisfactory for the prototype collection and products. The improved textiles were used in making 3 collections of fashion apparels and costume accessories in street fashion for present lifestyle. Knowledge to improved and develop local Pahkahmah woven textile and the idea from prototype collections and products from this research was relayed to makers of Pahkahmah woven textile in Nong Kao district, Kanchanaburi province. Evaluation for satisfactory to the creative idea and developed textile products by representatives of Pahkahmah woven textile maker community and consumers revealed average score 4.45 with standard deviation 0.27. Knowledge from this research become a guideline for sustainable development and innovative idea for increasing commercial value to the local Pahkahma woven products of Nong Kao district community.

YORGANLAMA ZANAATININ MODA VE GİYİLEBİLİR SANAT İÇİNDE UYGULANABİLİRLİĞİNE DAİR BİR ÖRNEK ÇALIŞMA “BAŞKALAŞIM MUCİZESİ SERGİSİ”

While contemporary production emphasizes speed and technology, it also retains a certain fascination with the traces of craft-centered living from the past. In this vein, designers in the fashion world have been integrating pieces into their collections that reference traditional crafts and reflect the qualities of handwork. These handmade elements, filtered through past traditions, can create design opportunities when handled with appropriate references within contemporary fashion and art. One such element is the art of quilting, a significant part of our culture, which offers contemporary possibilities for fashion with its aesthetics and propositions from the past. This study will examine how the art of quilting is handled within the context of design integrity. The two different lives of the dragonfly, which are featured in the exhibition "The Miracle of Metamorphosis," are expressed through design applications within the framework of wearable art. The study focuses on the first part of the exhibition, which tells the story of the dragonfly's first life, spent hidden under its shell underwater. The shell is conceptually considered as a quilt, a shield, and a shelter, with the meaning of "a covering, hiding, protecting, and sheltering cover." This work, expressed through the art of quilting, reflects the experiences of measurement and form in a way that is consistent with design integrity. It also demonstrates that the art of quilting, which is typically applied to two-dimensional surfaces, can be adapted to three-dimensional garment forms. Keywords: Wearable Art, Fashion, Quilting , Traditional Craft, Slow Fashion.

Enhancing Soft Skills through Generative AI in Sustainable Fashion Textile Design Education

This study explores the significance of incorporating soft skill training in fashion design education through the use of artificial intelligence (AI) technology and examines various AI-based approaches for sustainable fashion textile design education employing a multifaceted methodology that encompasses empirical, quantitative, and qualitative methods. We investigate the aspects of Design Sprints, identify key soft skills that help students meet the complex demands of contemporary fashion design workplaces, propose a curriculum guide for AI textile design programs, and evaluate the soft skill training process. Participants included students who had completed basic fashion design courses over three to four semesters and had experience with the fashion design process. The findings confirmed that participants’ soft skills improved across four areas—digital competence, sense of initiative and entrepreneurship, problem-solving and thinking skills, and communication—through the AI-based fashion textile design curriculum. This study validates the importance of integrating AI technology into educational programs to enhance essential soft skills in the digital fashion industry environment. Additionally, it emphasizes the necessity of developing AI technology-specialized design prompts while maintaining a balance between traditional design education and digital design education for sustainable fashion design education.

Re-Engineering Nubi: A Design-Driven Approach to Cultural Sustainability in Korean Fashion/Textile Practice

This study delves into the realm of traditional Korean fashion/textile practice, known as traditional nubi and Tongyeong nubi (t/T nubi), and re-engineers it from a contemporary fashion perspective within the framework of cultural sustainability. Drawing upon the systemic design approach, the project employed specific activities to trace, decode, and reconfigure t/T nubi following the phases of exploration, reframing, creation, and catalyzation, aiming for innovative design in the contemporary fashion space. The paper emphasizes a holistic and iterative process, based on learning the practice of t/T nubi from artisans, understanding and recontextualizing the future envisaged for t/T nubi, and delivering creative outcomes. Utilizing the interpretative model of cultural sustainability through craft, the study also analyzed the outcomes, identifying impacts such as rethinking craft culture, decoding craft roots, and influencing craft culture. Striking a balance between safeguarding the practice and fostering creativity was challenging; however, the approach serves as a valuable reference for designers and/or artisans of traditional craft practice, bridging their knowledge and design thinking process with the enduring sustainability of this heritage craft. It also demonstrates the potential for designers to leverage traditional craft practices to drive innovation in design, production, and business.

Creating Contemporary Fashions Using the Art of Macrame in light of Sustainable Fashion

Creating Contemporary Fashions Using the Art of Macrame in light of Sustainable Fashion

Expression types and aesthetic formativeness of interlacing techniques applied to contemporary fashion bags

Expression types and aesthetic formativeness of interlacing techniques applied to contemporary fashion bags

Application of Kansei engineering in the innovative design of traditional fashion elements

Kansei engineering can quickly establish the relationship between human emotion and product composition, and it is expected to be an important method for design evaluation. This paper investigates the application of Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklaces to modern attire, specifically the cheongsam, with a focus on the Kansei Engineering-based design approach. The study introduces sensory evaluation to analyse the suitability of various types of Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklaces in cheongsam designs and the sensual style of high-fit cheongsam designs. Two experiments were conducted, with Experiment 1 assessing the suitability of Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklaces on different traditional cheongsam, and Experiment 2 examining the overall style of cheongsam designs when combined with Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklace designs. Fuzzy logic was employed in Experiment 1 to evaluate the suitability of each necklace element, while Experiment 2 incorporated sensory evaluation to determine the sensual style of high-fit cheongsam designs, assessed through subjective ratings by 50 industry experts and 50 evaluators (women aged 18 to 35). The investigation utilized standard procedures for subjective evaluation experiments, resulting in the determination of the suitability of three mainstream cheongsam designs with 24 Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklaces, as well as the identification of high-fit cheongsam sensual styles. The paper concludes by providing recommendations for the design of Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklaces on the cheongsam, utilizing the relative weight values of cheongsam designs as guidance for future applications. This research contributes to understanding the integration of cultural artefacts in contemporary fashion, offering insights into design considerations and potential enhancements of the cheongsam through the incorporation of Yungang Grottoes Bodhisattva necklaces.

The ‘Wellbeing Wardrobe’ as a tool to promote just transitions in the fashion and textile industry

ABSTRACT In this paper we discuss the pressing need for a just transition in one of our most environmentally and socially problematic contemporary industries: the fashion and textiles industry. We detail the current injustices in the industry, from both environmental and socio-economic standpoints, and then move on to providing some suggestions as to how these entrenched problems with the industry could be addressed. Specifically, we identify five key action areas that could take us towards a just transition for the fashion and textiles industry: establishing limits, developing new indicators, promoting fairness, implementing just modes of governance, and creating new exchange systems. We propose policy interventions in each of these five action areas and discuss how they could practically be put into practice. In doing so, we develop a novel theoretical concept for a more just version of the global fashion industry: the ‘Wellbeing Wardrobe’, which draws on wellbeing economics and de-growth thinking applied to the contemporary fashion industry.

Innovative Applications and Market Impact of Indonesian Batik in Modern Fashion

Batik, a traditional Indonesian textile art, has transcended its local origins to gain a prominent place in the global fashion industry. This thesis explores the modern adaptations of Batik within contemporary fashion, highlighting the innovative applications and the market impact these adaptations have created. By integrating advanced technologies and sustainable practices, Batik has evolved into a versatile fashion element that appeals to a global audience. This study analyzes how these adaptations contribute to the economic vitality of the Indonesian economy, support local artisans, and promote cultural preservation. It also identifies strategies to enhance global recognition and demand for Batik, ensuring its sustainability and relevance in the international market. The thesis underscores the balance between innovation and the maintenance of authenticity, crucial for the cultural and economic prosperity of the Batik industry.

Periarticular soft tissue effect following fourth generation MIS Hallux Valgus correction: Formation of a pyramid-shaped first metatarsal osseous healing zone

Literature of fourth-generation minimally invasive surgery (MIS) on hallux valgus is scarce. In this study, extra-capsular transverse osteotomies were performed on ten cadaveric specimens. The capital fragment was shifted lateral to nearly 100% of the first metatarsal width and then fixated in contemporary fashion following MIS principles. A mixture of radio-opaque solution and methylene blue dye was injected through the second screw hole into the pyramid-shaped space created after the osteotomy shift. The injection was visualized under fluoroscopy and specimen were dissected in layered fashion to assess for containment versus extravasation. The purpose of this study is to observe and describe the preservation of the joint capsule, periosteum, and soft tissue structures adjacent to the osteotomy.

The role of developing countries in the global fashion industry sustainability discourse: Ghana in perspective - A narrative review

Fashion Industry practices globally are considered to have major negative impacts on both the environment and society. Production and consumption have increasingly moved towards the industry’s model of take-create-dispose. As this phenomenon is observed to take center stage in more industrialized and advanced nations, developing countries including Ghana, also contribute directly or indirectly to the negative impacts. Fashion production in Ghana is predominantly centered on small to medium-scale enterprises, and their mode of operation allows for customized small runs tailored to specific end-customers, thereby providing an avenue for exploring sustainable strategies that may have a positive impact on the environment and society. This paper takes a narrative review approach to how the fashion industry in Ghana impacts sustainability and the opportunities to make positive impacts on sustainability at a global level. It demonstrates how Ghana, as a developing country, imports raw materials for both textile and apparel production from counterparts in developing and developed countries and contributes to negative environmental impacts associated with sourcing countries. However, with the emergence of sustainable strategies, local contemporary fashion designers can embrace culturally friendly sustainable models to enhance their practice toward industry sustainability.

Integrating Faith and Fashion: How Muslim Women in Ghana Are Redefining Workplace Dress Codes

This study assessed the interplay of fashion, religion, and employment among Muslim women in Ghana’s formal sector. It examined their fashion consumption behaviors and how religion influences their attire choices, focusing on their awareness of Islamic fashion laws. Employing a concurrent mixed method approach, the study targeted Muslim women in various formal institutions in Accra, Ghana. Data collection involved questionnaires, observations, and interviews. Descriptive and Regression analysis was conducted to test hypotheses. The study discovered a significant association between contemporary fashion features in Muslim women’s styles and their knowledge of Islamic fashion laws. It also revealed that Islamic and contemporary fashion characteristics influence their understanding of clothing regulations under Islamic law. The study suggested the integration of religious beliefs in the fashion industry. It recommends involving professionals with religious and fashion expertise in education, promoting current trends in fashion that align with Islamic laws, and enforcing workplace rights for Muslim women. This study provides unique insights into how Islamic laws influence the fashion choices of Muslim women in Ghana’s formal sector, bridging a gap in understanding the intersection of faith, fashion, and professional life. Additionally, the findings highlight the dual impact of fashion and religion not only on personal identity but also on professional engagement within the workplace. These results emphasize the need for a more inclusive fashion industry that respects and reflects diverse religious tenets while supporting women in their career endeavors. This integrative approach could potentially enhance workplace inclusion and boost the career prospects of Muslim women in the formal sector.

EXPLORING THE HISTORICAL LAYERS OF VICTORIAN SOCIETY & FASHION TRENDS: A LITERARY REVIEW

The Victorian era, spanning Queen Victoria's reign from 1837 to 1901, witnessed a complex interplay of societal norms, cultural trends, economic factors, and gender roles that profoundly influenced fashion. This era was characterized by a strict code of morality and respectability, leading to clothing that emphasized modesty and concealment, along with a distinctive class-based approach to attire. The fascination with Orientalism and the Arts and Crafts Movement left a distinct mark on fashion, introducing exotic elements and handmade details. Economic and technological factors, notably the Industrial Revolution, transformed the fabric market and influenced clothing availability and affordability. The proliferation of visual media disseminated fashion trends, while distinct men's and women's fashion reflected the "separate spheres" ideology. This exploration of Victorian fashion is not merely a retrospective analysis but an examination of how clothing serves as a mirror to society. The legacy of this era endures, influencing contemporary fashion and underscoring the enduring relationship between attire and culture. The study of Victorian fashion offers a deeper understanding of how societal values, cultural dynamics, economic forces, and gender constructs intertwine to shape the clothing choices of a bygone era, leaving a rich and resonant tapestry of historical and cultural significance.

Influence of Contemporary Fashion Developments on the Shifting Meanings of Hand-Drawn Batik Lasem, Indonesia

Influence of Contemporary Fashion Developments on the Shifting Meanings of Hand-Drawn Batik Lasem, Indonesia

Happy narratives: stories of compulsory success in contemporary fashion and lifestyle publications for women

ABSTRACT This article focuses on the “happy narratives” of successful resolution and overcoming in fashion and lifestyle publications, and interrogates their relation to the increasing politicisation of fashion and lifestyle media. Analysing the “happy narratives” of celebrity and personality profiles, the article comments on the promissory and disciplining nature of such “happy narratives,” linking them to the “psychological turn” within neoliberalism Gill and Orgad and the rise of the “consumer citizen, and situating them within the economy of visibility, which sees exposure and visibility as solutions to structural problems. The article interrogates the (in)effectiveness of “happy narratives” in approaching political issues, and demonstrates their ineptitude in engaging with complex and potentially unresolvable issues. To further this point, the article employs a discursive analytic approach to survey celebrity profiles in Vogue US and Teen Vogue, including the highly controversial profile of Olena Zelenska that appeared in the October 2022 issue of Vogue US.