Chain Stitch Research Articles

Characterization of tensile properties of chain stitch structure fabric with negative Poisson’s ratio yarn

Negative Poisson’s ratio textiles have expanded deformation behavior and special mechanical properties under tension. According to the previous research, the negative Poisson’s ratio effect of fabrics was always lower than yarns. The main reason was that negative Poisson’s ratio yarns showed little structural deformation because of the fabric structures. In this study, chain stitch structure fabrics with negative Poisson’s ratio yarns as inserted weft yarns were designed and prepared. The effect of inserted weft yarns, symmetrical and parallelization arrangement and density on the Poisson’s ratio of chain stitch fabrics were tested and analyzed. The results showed that the negative Poisson’s ratio effect of fabrics was as similar as yarns and yarns in fabric. When the knitting loops provided fixation role in the fabrics, the negative Poisson’s yarns could also present obvious deformation behavior to successfully improve the expand effect of fabrics. Poisson’s ratio and porosity of fabrics under cyclic stretching were carried out to study the structure and property stability. The chain stitch structure fabrics with negative Poisson’s ratio are expected to provide more choices for improving the property and applicability.

Optimal design and experiments of a novel bobbin thread-hooking mechanism with RRSC (revolute–revolute–spherical–cylindrical) spatial four-bar linkage

Abstract. To solve the problem of low supply of bobbin thread and frequent bobbin changes existing in current embroidery machines, a novel bobbin thread-hooking mechanism with an RRSC (revolute–revolute–spherical–cylindrical) spatial four-bar linkage is proposed which can achieve a large number and continuous supply of bobbin thread. Based on the analysis of the chain stitch formation principle, the design requirements for motion trajectory and posture of the hooking mechanism are proposed. The methods of direction cosine matrix and mechanism identity condition are applied in kinematics modeling and analysis of the RRSC mechanism. The optimization design model and computer-aided software are developed, then the human–computer interaction optimization method is used to obtain optimal solutions to meet working requirements. The physical prototype is machined and a test bench is built. The virtual simulation and prototype high-speed camera kinematics tests are conducted. The results verify the correctness of mechanism design and show good application feasibility of the mechanism.

Symbolic Expression of Bungong Mata Uroe in the Interior Craftwork of the Living Room

Bungong mata uroe is the name for the sunflower plant by people of Aceh, the represented in the form of a sunflower which has beautiful blooming petals and is bright yellow in color with the meaning of loyalty and beauty making the artist interested in visualizing bungong mata uroe into the interior of the family room.The concept used in the creation of works uses the concept of symbolic expression, namely modern art forms that utilize traditional idioms as the basic elements of the creation. The creation method uses four stages, including the pre-design stages, the design stage, the embodiment stage and the presentation stage.In the creation of this final project, the artist expresses the bungong mata uroe which are applied to interior family room products, including corner table mats, wall hangings, mirrors, pillowcases, table mats and window curtains. This work is used to decorate or decorate family rooms as well as to reintroduce the bungong mata uroe shape with a knitting technique that combines two stitching techniques, namely double stitch and chain stitch.

RESEARCH OF VARIABLE PARAMETERS OF NEEDLE THREAD TAKE-UP MECHANISMS AND DEVELOPMENT OF RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ADJUSTING MULTI-THREAD CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINES

The purpose of this research is to develop specific recommendations for optimizing the adjustment of the thread take-up mechanisms of typical chain stitch sewing machines based on the analysis of the thread take-up process. These recommendations are intended to help manufacturers and machine operators achieve maximum productivity and increased product quality, while taking into account the specific technological parameters of the operations performed on these machines. The research is aimed at increasing the efficiency of the sewing process, reducing machine setup time, and improving the overall result of the technological process in the sewing industry. The research uses an analytical method of determining and investigating functions of the actual thread take-up as the instantaneous sum of sections of the take-up contour when adjustable parameters of the mechanisms are changed, taking into account accepted assumptions. In the research, an analytical method was used to determine functions of the actual thread take-up as the instantaneous sum of sections of the take-up contour, taking into account the change in regulated parameters of the mechanisms. At the same time, assumptions were made that has simplified analysis and modelling of this process with sufficient accuracy of calculation results. The scientific novelty of this research lies in discovery of new relationships and establishment of regularities that determine influence of adjustable parameters on the nature and scope of the thread take-up function in chain stitch machines. Further re-search in this area can be aimed to the development of more efficient methods of adjustment and optimization of needle thread take-up mechanisms, as well as to the implementation of new technologies in pro-duction to improve productivity and quality of sewing operations. The obtained results became basis for the development of nomograms for determining the optimal values of adjustable parameters for needle thread take-up mechanisms of typical flat chain stitch machines, taking into account technological parameters of specific operations. These nomograms allow operators and manufacturers of sewing machines significantly simplify adjustment of these mechanisms when using operational equipment or when switching to other technological operations. The obtained results can be applied directly in production during adjustment or repairing of specified ma-chines to increase their productivity by reducing adjustment time and for improving the quality of the technological process.

Load extension behavior of spun sewing threads on seam slippage

The present research is focused to develop the relationship between the seam slippage and mechanical properties of sewn fabric by considering the spun thread and fabric configuration in the stitched assembly. Plain and twill weave fabric was used for the sample development stitch with the spun thread while the sewing machine setting was kept constant to produce a balanced seam. Different stitched samples are prepared in warp and weft direction for investigation by considering superimposed, flat, and bound seam classes with multi-thread chain, lock, and cover stitches. Experiment findings highlight the optimum load of seam slippage in N at 6 mm seam opening at stitched assembly by employing mentioned seam classes and stitch types. The results showed that 189.97 N maximum load was found at 6 mm seam opening for plain weave fabric in warp direction at flat seam sample with a lock stitched while in weft direction 80.65 N minimum load at the bound seam with multi-thread chain stitch. For twill weave fabric 94.72 N minimum slippage load at a 6 mm seam opening was observed in the weft direction at the bound seam with multi-thread chain stitch while in the warp direction maximum slippage load of 200 N was reported at the superimposed, flat and bound seam with multi-thread chain, lock and cover stitches. Established findings have a significant coefficient of determination (R2 0.90) between sewing thread extension and seam slippage load at 6 mm seam opening in both directions. The present research provides the guidelines to select the spun sewing thread which was possessed the minimum extension (%) against the respective load (N) to overcome the seam slippage in the stitched garment.

Seam Strength Prediction for Different Stitch Types Considering Stitch Density of Cotton Woven Fabrics

Seam strength is critical in achieving the proper and adequate quality seam, which eventually determines the overall quality of any garment. The target of this research was to investigate exactly how different stitch density affected seam strength for different stitch types. Commercially available, 100% cotton plain weave structured woven fabric with mass per unit area of 270 g/m2 was used in this analysis. Two different stitch types, such as lock stitch (ISO#301) and chain stitch (ISO#401), along with four stitch densities like 8, 10, 12 and 14 per inch were utilized. The seam strength of the prepared samples was determined using a tensile strength tester followed by the ASTM D1683 standard procedure. The impact of independent variables on superimposed seam strength was statistically analyzed using a regression correlation with the help of SPSS software to construct a regression equation to predict seam strength before the manufacturing process. The study found a non-linear relationship between seam strength and stitch density. When the stitch density is too low, the seam strength is shown low as well, because the cloth cannot be held under tensile load. In a very compact woven fabric, structural jamming or intrinsic puckering occurs if it is too high. As a result, the best stitch density should be chosen to achieve the best seam strength. This study will help the manufacturers choose a suitable SPI for lock and chain stitches from polynomial regression equations before the sewing production of cotton woven fabric, which was not predicted by any researcher before. Therefore, the optimum stitch density can be chosen using regression equations to get the best result for seam strength.

Investigating the Influence of Yarn Density and Seam Construction on the Seam Performance of Woven Linen Fabric

The impacts of fabric thread density and seam structure on woven linen fabric seam slippage and tensile strength characteristics have been investigated. Two different types of woven fabric samples were produced and prepared for the sewing process, with various levels of fabric thread density. The samples are sewn with different seams (superimposed, lapped, and bound), stitch density (10, 12, and 14 stitches/inch), and stitch type (single needle lock stitch, double needle lock stitch and double needle chain stitch). Fabric tensile characteristics, seam slippage, and seam strength in both the warp and weft directions have been tested and evaluated. The research reveals that seam strength and seam slippage are dependent on the seam type, stitch type, and SPI. Furthermore, we found that the fabric’s EPI and PPI had a considerable impact on its seam performance, with greater EPI and PPI resulting in better seam performance.

Geometrical Model to Determine Sewing Thread Consumption for Stitch Class 406

This study aimed at developing a geometrical model for predicting the sewing thread consumption of stitch class 406. Stitch class 400 is a multi-thread chain stitch which consumes a less amount of thread as compared with stitch class 500 but more thread as compared with stitch class 300. Sewing thread calculation plays a significant role in determining the exact amount of thread for completing a garment and predicting the right quantity of thread for bulk production. The geometrical model developed was used for predicting sewing thread consumption by using different factors like stitch density (8 and 12 SPI), material thickness (2, 4 and 6 layers of fabric), and type of material (denim, knitted and fleece). The model was validated with a total of 18 samples sewn with different kinds of fabric, SPI, and material thickness. It was concluded that the model could predict sewing thread consumption with more than 97.18% accuracy.

Investigation of Stretch Properties of Different Stitch Types in Garments Made of Elastane Woven Fabrics

In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of fabric with elastane is able to stretch by about 10-30% and recovery immediately after release. In the apparel industry, sewing should not prevent the fabric from stretching in the garments made from woven fabrics with elastane. The elasticity of the seams of the garments consisting of elastic fabrics is very important. 
 
 In this study, it is aimed to examine the stretch and permanent elongation properties of different stitch types of garments made of elastane woven fabrics. For this purpose, 5 different stitch types were selected as lockstitch, zig zag stitch, two thread chain stitch, three thread overlock stitch and five thread overlock stitch, and these stitches were sewn at different stitch densities (3 - 4 and 5 stitches / cm), with different sewing threads (spun polyester, core spun (poly / poly), nylon and elastic sewing thread) with different ticket numbers (80 and 120). The stretch and permanent elongation values of the sewn fabric samples were examined.

رؤیة تشکیلیة جدیدة للکروشیه الفیلیة على النول الیدوی والاستفادة منها فى إثراء مکملات الملابس

رؤیة تشکیلیة جدیدة للکروشیه الفیلیة على النول الیدوی والاستفادة منها فى إثراء مکملات الملابس

Sewing Thread Consumption for Chain Stitches of Class 400 using Geometrical and Multilinear Regression Models

Abstract This work deals with determination of rapid and precise methods to predict the amount of sewing thread needed to sew a garment using different chain stitches of the class 400 (from 401 to 407 chain stitches). At first, to avoid unused stocks, sewing consumption value was determined using a geometrical method (based on different chain stitch shapes). The prediction of the sewing thread consumption was proposed as a function of the studied input parameters, which are fabric thickness, stitch density, yarn linear density, and stitch width. Then, a statistical method based on the multilinear regression was studied. Geometrical and statistical results were discussed. Based on the R2 range, we concluded that the geometrical method is more accurate than the statistical one (from 98.16 to 99.19% and from 97.30 to 98.51%, respectively). Thus, this result encourages industrialists to use geometrical models to predict thread consumption. Also, all studied parameters, contributing to the sewing thread consumption behavior, were investigated and analyzed. The result shows that the most important parameters affecting thread consumption are stitch density followed by stitch width and fabric thickness. The yarn density has a low contribution on the thread consumption value.

Investigation into the tensile properties of ISO-401 double-thread chain-stitched glass-fibre composites

Interlaminar stitching has proven to be an effective through-thickness reinforcement technique for laminated composites but a major drawback is the negative effect it has on the in-plane tensile properties. This study aims to optimise stitching for composites to reduce the associated negative effects by introducing a new stitch type to composite laminates. The double-thread chain-stitch (ISO-401) has shown great utility in the textile industry but has not yet been applied as through-thickness reinforcement to composites. In this paper, tensile properties of glass fibre composite laminates stitched with ISO-401 double-thread chain stitch have been examined, as stitching reduces in-plane strength while improving damage tolerance. Three variations of the ISO-401 geometry were employed by varying the stitch junction position and each position was applied at two stitch densities by varying the stitch pitch at 3 mm and 4 mm. The composites were manufactured using E-glass 2 × 2 twill fabric and a Bisphenol-A type epoxy resin, stitching was performed with core-spun tex 24 polyester thread. The experimental data demonstrated the influence of ISO-401 junction position and stitch density on the composite tensile properties. Furthermore, adjustment of the junction position was found to affect the size of stitch-induced resin pockets and severity of in-plane fibre misalignment.

ВЛАСТИВОСТІ ЕЛАСТИЧНИХ ОСНОВОВ'ЯЗАНИХ БИНТІВ

The market analysis of knitted elastic bandages in Ukraine, the investigation of the parameters and properties of the most common products and their comparison as well as determination of compliance to requirements are the main purposes of this study. Methodology. Standard test methods were used to experimental study the raw material composition, type of interlooping, structure parameters and relaxation characteristics of elastic bandages. Results. As a result of the study of the elastic bandage structure, it is found that all tested bandages are produced on Crochet knitting machine using four yarn systems. chain stitch with closed loop from is a ground interlooping. The ground guide bar is partially threaded with polyester yarn depending on the manufacturer. The requested level of elasticity is provided by elastomeric threads, which are used as longitudinal in-lay yarn with incomplete threaded of the guide bar and a diff erent repeat of its shifting behind the needles. The other two yarns systems are cotton yarn in several ends, which is laid across the bandage's entire width at both sides of the elastomeric yarn, ensuring its overlap and the combination of individual chain wales into the fabric. Obtained experimental data of the parameters and elongation of elastic bandages of diff erent manufactures allowed to establish their compliance with standardized values. It ensures the products functionality during usage. It is indicated that the yarn composition specifi ed by the manufacturers correlated with experimental results. The percentage of the elastomeric thread content is not a determining characteristic of the bandage's stretchability since the elastic component of full deformation for all tested bandages exceeds 0.95. The residual component is less than 0.02. It is indicating high elastic properties and functionality. The practical signifi cance of the work is confi rmed by the possibility of evaluating a bandage of a particular manufacturer based on the resulting array of their properties data. The results of the work expand the knowledge about the infl uence of the knitted structure on the parameters and deformation properties of elastic bandage.

Comparison of Mechanical Behavior of Biaxial, Unidirectional and Standard Woven Fabric Reinforced Composites

The conventional woven fabrics (plain, twill, satin, etc.) have yarn undulations, that may lead to the fibre breakage and loss of mechanical strength. This problem was resolved using unidirectional woven structures having straight yarns, but they provide strength in one direction only. A possible solution is the use of biaxial fabric having yarns at ±45 ° as reinforcement, but its fabrication cost is too high. The current study focussed on the development of a composite material using conventional fabrics having comparable properties with biaxial fabric composites. Three different reinforcements (plain, twill and unidirectional) were prepared using glass fibre. For composite fabrication, plies were cut, stacked at ±45° and infused with unsaturated polyester resin to produce a composite equivalent to the biaxial composite. Similarly, the stitched composites were also fabricated by stitching the similar stack (using chain stitch class 101) before impregnating with resin. Laminated composites from biaxial fabric (both stitched and unstitched) were also produced for comparison. All these composites were characterised for tensile and impact properties. The tensile strength of stitched unidirectional composites was higher as compared to the other woven and biaxial structures. Similarly, the impact strength was also higher for stitched unidirectional composite. Hence, the ±45° stacked unidirectional composite may be used as a potential replacement of biaxial composite.

Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method: effects of different stitch types and seam directions

Sewing quality is an important factor that contributes to the overall quality of an end-product. Sewing quality compro - mises different components such as bending, seam strength, seam slippage, elasticity etc. Among these components, bending has a special importance because of causing changes in appearance, sensorial comfort and drape of a garment. Therefore, in this study, effects of stitch type and seam direction on the bending rigidities of sewn fabrics were evaluated and compared. A polyester woven fabric which is suitable for sportswear was sewn with three basic stitch types (lock stitch, chain stitch and overlock stitch), in 5 different directions (warp, weft, 30°, 45° and 60° angles). As reference, samples without stitches were tested, too. Bending properties of samples were determined via heart loop method. According to the results, sewing increased the fabric bending rigidity. The degree of bending rigidity increment was dependent on the stitch type. Highest bending rigidity values were obtained for overlock stitched samples those were approximately 4 times higher when compared to non-sewn reference samples. Thickness of sewn parts was in accordance with the bending rigidity results. For oriented seams, bias sewing especially for 45˚ oriented samples, showed the most advantageous bending results. This study showed the usability of heart loop method for sewn samples via consistent results for different stitch types and seam directions.

SEAM RESISTANCE ANALYSIS: COMPARING SEAMS MADE BY THE DCSS MACHINE AND IS MACHINE

The present work performs a resistance analysis of the seams applied in flat fabrics commonly used in the making of uniform trousers. The purpose is to identify whether the Double Chain Stitch Sewing Machine is stronger than that of the Interlock Sewing Machine with rebound stitch in the Twin Needle Lockstitch Sewing Machines. For this purpose, tensile tests were carried out, where the sample tested was the twill, 3x1 frame with 100% cotton composition tested in the different directions of the fabric (weft, warp and bias). The results show that the Interlock Sewing Machine is stronger than Double Chain Stitch Sewing Machine. The results indicate that the strongest seam is necessarily the one that uses the least needles and this goes against the information that the manufacturers thought.

Investigation of Seam Performance of Chain Stitch and Lockstitch Used in Denim

Investigation of Seam Performance of Chain Stitch and Lockstitch Used in Denim

AB005. Complications and management following tracheal resection and reconstruction

AB005. Complications and management following tracheal resection and reconstruction

The embroidery artisans of the Kashmir Valley

On a visit to the Kashmir Valley in northern India during the winter months I was given a pheran to wear. This long woolen garment is the customary apparel worn by Kashmiri men and women in cold weather. While the men’s are plain, the women’s pherans are embroidered on the front and sleeves. The skills of those Kashmiri artisans who hand embroider clothing such as the pherans, shawls, and other textiles including rugs, curtains, and cushions are well recognized in India and beyond. Considering the Kashmir Valley’s geographic position surrounded by the Himalayan Mountains, I presumed that their embroidery crafts would have emerged intrinsically given the long winters spent indoors and limited access to resources like wool. However, historically it was Kashmir’s position on the trade routes of Central Asia and continuous occupation by foreign rulers that resulted in outside influences developing their textile crafts including techniques, design motifs, and materials used. It is thought that sultan Zain-ul-Abidin (1420-70) brought craftsmen from Damascus who introduced zalakdozi (crewel and chain stitch) hook work embroidery to Kashmir. While in 1803 Khwaja Yusuf, an Armenian shawl merchant, introduced needlework, or sozni embroidery, to Kashmir as a means of producing cheaper shawls than woven kani shawls so to be more viable in the competitive markets. Cultural exchanges continue in contemporary times with collaborations between foreign designers and specific embroidery communities of the Kashmir Valley, although ongoing political unrest challenges all Kashmiris including the sozni and zaladozi embroiderers. Hand embroidered Kashmiri textiles have markets locally and as export products, but a June 2017 report in the Kashmir Reader claims exports have greatly diminished over the past two years. Through discussion with embroiderers in the Kashmir Valley I have learnt about changing influences on their communities, how they adapt, and how they perceive their future.

Effect of Stitch Types Used in Apparel Production on Aerobic Mesophilic Bacteria Growth

In this study, the effect
 of stitch types (those commonly used in apparel production) on antibacterial
 activity was investigated. Determination of best stitch types through hygienic
 environments, where dangerous situations exist such as infection was intended.
 For this purpose, the antibacterial
 activity of various stitches was tested within the framework of the ASTM E2149 standard. Bleached reusable clinical
 aprons` fabrics, those comprising 65% polyester – 35% viscon mixture were named as alpaca weave
 fabric. Onto these alpaca fabrics, 3
 different stitches with various yarns (3 threads overlock + chain stitch, lockstitch
 with lap felled seam and 5 threads overlock) were applied.  Evaluation of findings showed that there are
 no significant differences according to stitch types.