Broad Spectrum Photoprotection Research Articles

Holistic Photoprotection, Broad Spectrum (UVA-UVB), and Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) from Baccharis antioquensis Hydrolysates Polyphenols

Overexposure to solar radiation has become an increasingly worrying problem due to the damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). In previous studies, the potential of an extract enriched with glycosylated flavonoids from the endemic Colombian high-mountain plant Baccharis antioquensis as a photoprotector and antioxidant was demonstrated. Therefore, in this work we sought to develop a dermocosmetic formulation with broad-spectrum photoprotection from the hydrolysates and purified polyphenols obtained from this species. Hence, the extraction of its polyphenols with different solvents was evaluated, followed by hydrolysis and purification, in addition to the characterization of its main compounds by HPLC-DAD and HPLC-MS, and evaluation of its photoprotective capacity through the measurement of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF), other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs), and its safety through the cytotoxicity. In the dry methanolic extract (DME) and purified methanolic extract (PME), flavonoids such as quercetin and kaempferol were found, which demonstrated antiradical capacity, as well as UVA-UVB photoprotection and prevention of harmful biological effects, such as elastosis, photoaging, immunosuppression, DNA damage, among others, which demonstrates the potential of the ingredients in this type of extract to be applied in photoprotection dermocosmetics.

Flower Extracts from Ornamental Plants as Sources of Sunscreen Ingredients: Determination by In Vitro Methods of Photoprotective Efficacy, Antigenotoxicity and Safety.

Plants are sources of sunscreen ingredients that prevent cellular mutations involved in skin cancer and aging. This study investigated the sunscreen properties of the extracts from some ornamental plants growing in Colombia. The UV filter capability of the flower extracts obtained from Rosa centifolia L., Posoqueria latifolia (Rudge) Schult, and Ipomoea horsfalliae Hook. was examined. Photoprotection efficacies were evaluated using in vitro indices such as sun protection factor and critical wavelength. UVB antigenotoxicity estimates measured with the SOS Chromotest were also obtained. Extract cytotoxicity and genotoxicity were studied in human fibroblasts using the trypan blue exclusion and Comet assays, respectively. Major compounds of the promising flower extracts were identified by UHPLC–ESI+–Orbitrap–MS. The studied extracts showed high photoprotection efficacy and antigenotoxicity against UVB radiation, but only the P. latifolia extract showed broad-spectrum photoprotection at non-cytotoxic concentrations. The P. latifolia extract appeared to be safer for human fibroblast cells and the R. centifolia extract was shown to be moderately cytotoxic and genotoxic at the highest assayed concentrations. The I. horsfalliae extract was unequivocally cytotoxic and genotoxic. The major constituents of the promising extracts were as follows: chlorogenic acid, ecdysterone 20E, rhamnetin-rutinoside, cis-resveratrol-diglucoside, trans-resveratrol-diglucoside in P. latifolia; quercetin, quercetin-glucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoside, kaempferol, kaempferol-3-glucoside, and kaempferol-rhamnoside in R. centifolia. The potential of the ornamental plants as sources of sunscreen ingredients was discussed.

Intermolecular Interactions and In Vitro Performance of Methyl Anthranilate in Commercial Sunscreen Formulations

In order to afford the required level of broad-spectrum photoprotection against UV-B and UV-A radiation, sunscreens must contain a combination of UV filters. It is important that any interactions between UV filters do not adversely affect their photostability nor the overall photostability of the sunscreen formulation. In this work, we explore the feasibility of using methyl anthranilate (MA) as an alternative to the photo-unstable UV-A filter, avobenzone. From the in vitro studies presented here, we conclude that MA does not provide sufficient UV-A protection on its own but that it is more photostable in formulation than avobenzone. In addition, we found that both octocrylene (OCR) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), two commonly used UV-B filters, can stabilize MA through quenching of its triplet states, as previously reported, which has a demonstrable effect in formulation. In contrast with previously reported observations for mixtures of EHMC and avobenzone, we found no evidence of [2+2] photocycloadditions taking place between EHMC and MA. This work demonstrates how a clear insight into the photophysics and photochemistry of UV filters, as well as the interactions between them, can inform formulation design to predict sunscreen performance.

Materials Science Challenges in Skin UV Protection: A Review.

UV radiation is one of the critical environmental stress factors for human skin, which can trigger various problems such as pruritus, burning, erythema, premature skin aging and skin cancer. Hence, UV protection has become an indispensable daily routine and the use of topical sunscreen products is rapidly increasing. However, there are emerging concerns over the efficiency and safety of existing chemical and physical UV filters used in consumer products. Furthermore, there is no universally approved method for assessing sun protection efficiency regardless of the immediate end user need to develop safer sunscreen products that afford broad-spectrum photoprotection. It is evident that the current organic and inorganic UV filters have significant unfavorable impacts on human, environmental, and marine safety. Therefore, effective alternative UV filters should be established. This article comprehensively reviews the properties, safety, health and ecological concerns of various UV filters including TiO2 and ZnO nanoparticles as well as the limitations of the testing protocols and guidelines provided by major regulatory bodies. The photoreactivity of UV filters used in sunscreen remains a major challenge, and it is crucial to develop new sunscreen ingredients, which not only protect the consumer, but also the environment.

Multifunctional photoprotection: corrective makeup for cutaneous dyschromias

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate a corrective and photoprotective makeup for patients with dyschromias. An emulsion was prepared and pigment mixtures were incorporated in the formulation, producing five shades of corrective makeup: BEIGE (I, II, III), BRONZE and TAN. The sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA/UVB ratio of the corrective makeup were determined using spectrophotometry with a Labsphere® analyser. The spreadability, occlusivity, stability, and photostability of the photoprotective formulations were also evaluated. For all formulations there was no statistical difference among them (p > 0.05) in terms of spreadability, occlusivity and SPF. They were considered to be photostable under solar radiation, with variations in SPF value and UVA/UVB ratio lower than 20%. The corrective makeup presented average-to-high UVB photoprotection and broad spectrum photoprotection. After 90 days, pH, density and SPF values showed no significant differences among formulations (p>0.05). All corrective makeup presented separation of the pigments, however, they returned to a homogeneous aspect and to the original color shade after shaking. The corrective makeup presented a fine texture, little brightness, and a homogeneous, dry-to-the-touch aspect. This work may benefit patients with dyschromias, improving their quality of life, besides promoting photoprotection and covering the skin blemishes.

Photostabilization of sunscreens by incorporation of tea as the external phase

The use of isolated ultraviolet (UV) filters in photoprotective formulations creates products with limited protection against radiation, emphasising the need to develop formulations containing UVA and UVB filter combinations. However, most of the formulations developed to include both filters are unstable as a result of this combination, as well as by exposure to UV radiation. It is, therefore, crucial to include additives that enable photostabilization. Tea is the second most widely consumed beverage in the world and represents a good source of bioactive compounds, particularly polyphenols, which provide antioxidant activity. In the present work formulations containing green tea or black tea, as well as the sunscreens avobenzone (UVA sunscreen) and octilmetoxinamato (UVB sunscreen), were developed and evaluated in order to develop new and effective photostable formulations providing broad spectrum photoprotection. These formulations have been developed with complete replacement of the external phase of the oil in water (O/W) emulsion by these teas. The results showed that both teas presented photostabilizing capacity, particularly for green tea in the storage conditions at room temperature and at 5 °C, and black tea for the samples stored at 40 °C. Key-words: green tea, black tea, photoprotective formulations, photostabilizing capacity, octyl methoxynnamate, avobenzone

A Pilot, Prospective, Open-Label Study on the Effects of a Topical Photorepair and Photoprotection Film-Forming Medical Device in Patients with Actinic Keratoses Evaluated by Means of Skin Analysis Camera Antera 3D

Background: Actinic keratosis (AK) is a very common precancerous skin lesion caused by chronic exposure to sunlight. UVA and UVB rays’ exposure is considered as the main pathogenic mechanism of keratinocytes alterations and malignant transformations. UVB and UVA cause direct alterations of DNA molecules, such as the formation of cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimers (CPD) and cellular structures damage, in particular membranes, trough free radicals formation. Eryfotona AK-NMSC (Ery) is a film-forming medical device (MD) class II indicated for the prevention and treatment of cancerization field in subjects with AK or non-melanoma skin cancers (NMSC). Ery is characterized by a photorepair action, thanks to its content in photolyase, an enzyme able repairing DNA CPD, and by high broadspectrum photoprotection (SPF 100+) (Repairsome). Controlled clinical studies have shown that this MD, both in the short and the long term, is able to induce in AK patients sub-clinical and clinical improvements at the cancerization field level. Study aim: In this pilot, prospective study, we evaluated the effects of 3-month application of this product in 11 subjects with AK through an objective assessment by skin camera ANTERA 3D instrument. The primary endpoints of the study were to evaluate: a) the evolution of the skin haemoglobin content (parameter related to the level of “vascularization” and inflammation of the skin lesions) at the level of a target AK lesion, identified and defined at baseline visit and b) the evolution of AK lesion area. Results: Ery treatment induced a statistically significant and clinically relevant reduction of AK target lesion area (a -75% reduction in comparison with baseline, range: -100%- 50%) and a significant haemoglobin content reduction as soon as after 1 month (-16%, p=0.01) and after 3 months of treatment (-34%, p=0.01) demonstrating an effect of normalization of this parameter at the AK target lesion level. The product was well tolerated. Conclusion: Data from this pilot study suggest that the use of a photorepair and photoprotection film-forming MD in subjects with AK is able to change in the short-medium term, an objectively-assessed parameter such as AK lesion area and the haemoglobin content via spectral analysis suggesting that this strategy could improve the skin area affected by the AK process.

Influence of vegetable oil on the synthesis of bioactive nanocarriers with broad spectrum photoprotection

Abstract Due to their unique features, most nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) in association with vegetable oils that exhibit UV filtering properties and bioactivity could be used in many cosmetic formulations. Therefore, in this work, a new application of pomegranate seed oil (PSO) in the cosmetic sector was developed, based on the synthesis of bioactive lipid nanocarriers loaded with various UV filters by the hot high pressure homogenization technique. To get broad spectrum photoprotection, different UVA and UVB filters have been used (Avobenzone — AVO, Octocrylen-OCT, Bemotrizinol — BEMT). The influence of the solid lipids combined with PSO on the particle size, physical stability and entrapment efficiency was investigated using 8 nanocarrier systems. An improved physical stability and an appropriate size were obtained for NLCs prepared with Emulgade, carnauba wax and PSO (e.g. −30.9÷-36.9 mV and 160÷185 nm). NLCs showed an entrapment efficiency above 90% and assured slow release rates of UV filters, especially for BEMT (5%). The developed nanocarriers have been formulated into safe and effective sunscreens containing low amounts of synthetic UV filters coupled with a high percent of natural ingredients. The highest SPF of 34.3 was obtained for a cream comprising of 11% PSO and 3.7% BEMT

Rice bran and raspberry seed oil-based nanocarriers with self-antioxidative properties as safe photoprotective formulations

The aim of this research was to develop advanced lipid nanocarriers based on renewable vegetable resources (rice bran oil and raspberry seed oil) that possess self-antioxidative properties, having advantages in terms of minimal side effects and exhibiting the ability to simultaneously co-encapsulate and co-release two active compounds. The focus has been oriented towards developing safe cosmetic formulations with broad-spectrum photoprotection based on these new lipid nanocarriers that contain large amounts of vegetable oils and low concentrations of synthetic UVA and UVB filters (butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane - BMDBM and octocrylene - OCT). The lipid nanocarriers have a spherical shape and show good physical stability, with a zeta potential in the range of -25.5 to -32.4 mV. Both vegetable oils play a key role in the preparation of efficient nanocarriers, leading to a less ordered arrangement of the lipid core that offers many spaces for the entrapment of large amounts of BMDBM (79%) and OCT (90%), as wells as improved antioxidant activity and UV absorption properties, particularly for the lipid nanocarriers prepared from rice bran oil. By formulating the lipid nanocarriers into creams containing only 3.5% of the UV filters and 10.5% of the vegetable oils, the resulting sunscreens exhibited improved photoprotection, reflecting up to 91% and 93% of UVA and UVB rays, respectively. A new direction of research achieved by this study is the multiple release strategy of both UV filters from the same lipid nanocarrier. After 24 hours, a slow release of BMDBM (less than 4%) and OCT (17.5%) was obtained through a Fick diffusion process. This study demonstrates a significant advance in the areas of both nanotechnology and cosmetics, developing safer cosmetic formulations that possess broad antioxidant, photoprotective and co-release effectiveness due to the existence of a high content of nanostructured vegetable oils combined with a low amount of synthetic UV filters in the same carrier system.

Unusual presentation of idiopathic sweet′s syndrome in a photodistributed pattern

A 40-year-old lady presented with history of multiple red raised painful lesions over her body of 10 days duration. Lesions spread from forearms to arms and back of trunk during the progress of the disease. Associated pain and burning sensation in the lesions was present while working in the sun. Mild to moderate grade fever, malaise, pain over large joints, decreased appetite, and redness of eyes was also present. There was no history of drug intake or other risk-factors. Dermatological examination revealed erythematous papules coalescing to form plaques with a pseudovesicular appearance over the extensor aspect of forearms and photo-exposed areas on the back of trunk. There was a sharp cut-off between the lesions and the photo-protected areas. Investigations revealed anemia, neutrophilic leukocytosis, raised erythrocyte sedimentation rate and positive C reactive protein. Skin biopsy showed characteristic features of Sweet's syndrome. No evidence for any secondary etiology was found. She responded to a tapering course of oral steroids and topical broad spectrum photo-protection. This case is a very rare instance of idiopathic Sweets syndrome occurring in a photo-distributed pattern.

HPLC Method for the Simultaneous Determination of the UV-Filters Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane and Octocrylene in the Presence of Their Photodegradants

Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDM) and octocrylene (OC), common UV-filters in sunscreen products are often used in combination. Together they provide broad spectrum photoprotection from exposure to both UVA- and UVB-light. These UV-filters may, however, undergo photodegradation and generate photodegradants, resulting in a potential loss of photoprotection. It is thus a concern that the photostability testing as described by the ICH Guideline Q1B is not a requirement for sunscreen products in Australia, Europe or the USA. UV-filter photodegradants have in addition been shown to be toxic, highlighting the importance of their separation from the parent UV-filters. An HPLC method was developed and validated to quantitatively determine a combination of these UV-filters in the presence of their photodegradants. Reverse-phase chromatography was employed, using a C18 column and an isocratic mobile phase consisting of methanol/water/acetic acid (89/10/1 v/v). Validation according to the ICH guidelines for linearity, accuracy, precision, sensitivity, specificity and robustness was confirmed. The developed and validated method was then successfully applied to the determination of BMDM and OC in an aqueous cream base, typically used in sunscreens, after photostability testing, according to the ICH Guideline Q1B. In addition, the diketo-enol ratio of BMDM in methanol-d4 was determined by NMR and the two major photodegradants were identified by FTMS and LC–MS.

Coencapsulation of Butyl‐Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Octocrylene into Lipid Nanocarriers: UV Performance, Photostability and in vitro Release

The coencapsulation of two UV filters, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) and octocrylene (OCT), into lipid nanocarriers was explored to develop stable cosmetic formulations with broad-spectrum photoprotection and slow release properties. Different types of nanocarriers in various concentrations of the two UV filters were tested to find the combination with the best absorption and release properties. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) have been the two types of lipid nanocarriers used. The NLCs were based on either medium chain triglycerides (MCT) or squalene (Sq). The following physicochemical properties of the nanocarriers have been evaluated: particle size, morphology, zeta potential (ZP), entrapment efficiency, loading capacity, and thermal behavior. The nanocarriers have been formulated into creams containing low amounts of UV filters (2.5% BMDBM and 1% OCT). The best photoprotection results were obtained with the cream based on NLCs prepared with MCT, having a sun protection factor (SPF) of 17.2 and an erythemal UVA protection factor (EUVA-PF) of 50.8. The photostability of the encapsulated BMDBM filter was confirmed by subjecting the nanocarriers-based creams to in vitro irradiation. The prolonged UV-protection efficacy was coupled with a slow in vitro release of the synthetic UV filters, which followed the Higuchi release model.

Sunscreens

Photoprotection is an essential component of many dermatologic therapeutic programs, which includes effective sunscreens. An ideal effective sunscreen should provide broad spectrum photoprotection (290-760), photostable, non-toxic, aesthetically acceptable and affordable. Sunscreens are broadly grouped as organic and inorganic. They protect against UV-A and UV-B rays preventing photodamage. The efficacy against UV-B rays is measured by sun protection factor and there is no universal consensus against UV-A protection. Various formulations are available improving the efficacy and aesthetics. Adverse effects are noted in 15-19% of the users. Desired protection is achieved with proper selection, application and compliance to the sunscreens. In addition to effective sunscreens, alternative protection measures like protective clothing and shade are necessary to obtain the maximum benefit.

Immunologically Mediated Photodermatoses

Electromagnetic radiation may cause distinct skin conditions. The immunologically mediated photodermatoses (IMP, previous term: idiopathic photodermatoses) represent a heterogenous group of disorders presenting with pathologic skin reactions caused by optical radiation, particularly in the UVA wavelength region. The exact pathomechanism in IMP remains to be elucidated; however, it is very likely (auto)-immunologic in nature. Polymorphic light eruption, actinic prurigo, hydroa vacciniforme, chronic actinic dermatitis, and solar urticaria are the most important conditions that may be summarized under the term IMP. IMP frequently result in a significant reduction in quality of life in affected individuals, mainly because of troublesome symptoms such as intractable itch and pain. Photodiagnostic procedures are mandatory for the exact determination of action spectra and the degree of photosensitivity. Broad-spectrum photoprotection is essential in the prevention of IMP. Photo(chemo)therapeutic regimens are predominantly used to increase the cutaneous immunologic tolerance against ambient UV radiation. In severe forms of IMP, immunomodulatory and immunosuppressive therapies may need to be considered. Overall, IMP form a significant group of skin conditions that can be extremely disabling to the patient and are difficult to diagnose and treat.

The Human Melanocyte as a Particular Target for UVA Radiation and an Endpoint for Photoprotection Assessment

The induction of DNA breaks by UVA (320-400 nm) in the nucleus of normal human melanocytes in culture was investigated using single cell gel electrophoresis, also called the comet assay. Endogenous pigment and/or melanin-related molecules were found to enhance DNA breakage: comets were more intense in melanocytes than in fibroblasts, in cells with high melanin content or after stimulation of melanogenesis by supplying tyrosine in the culture medium. After UVA doses where strong comets were observed, neither cytotoxicity nor stimulation of tyrosinase activity were detected. However, the accumulation of p53 protein suggested that cells reacted to genotoxic stress under these experimental conditions. The same approach was used to compare two sunscreens with identical sun protection factors but different UVA protection factors. The results presented in this paper suggest that human melanocytes may be used as a target cell to evidence broadspectrum photoprotection. Moreover, these data appear to be helpful in getting a better understanding of the role of sunlight in the initiating steps of melanocyte transformation.

Broad-spectrum photoprotection: the roles of tinted auto windows, sunscreens and browning agents in the diagnosis and treatment of photosensitivity.

Since window glass absorbs sunlight below 320 nm, it provides a means of assessing sensitivity to longer wavelengths, i.e. UVA and visible radiation. Positive responses to the query of whether symptoms develop in the auto with the windows up must now be interpreted with regard to the possible presence of tinted plastic film on side and rear windows. These films block nearly all UVA radiation, as does the plastic interleaf of windshields. Thus, occupants of an auto equipped with plastic film receive photoprotection from UVB radiation and well into the UVA region. We define three classes of topical sunscreens: (1) conventional UVB screens, (2) broad-spectrum preparations containing a UVB screen and a UVA absorber and (3) browning agents such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) that produce a skin coloration that absorbs in the low end of the visible region, with overlap into long-wavelength UVA. By considering responses of photosensitive persons in autos with tinted or untinted windows, coupled with efficacy of appropriate sunscreens, we produced an algorithm defining three photosensitivity subsets. Persons sensitive to long-wavelength UVA and/or visible radiation will benefit from tinted auto windows. In particular, patients with lupus erythematosus (LE) have actively promoted legislation allowing tinted windows. Support for their position is documented by recent reports of induction of lesions in LE patients by exposure to UVA and visible radiation. The brown color produced by DHA is a useful adjunct to the screening action of broad-spectrum sunscreens. Development of a durable color overnight allows application of the DHA preparation in the evening, thus eliminating possible interference with sunscreen use during the day.