Breaker Bar Research Articles

Influence of seagrass meadow length on beach morphodynamics: An experimental study

A novel flume experiment was conducted to compare the sheltering effect of surrogate seagrass meadows of two different lengths against a bare beach (benchmark). The analyses focused on assessing the impact of meadow cross-shore extent on wave height attenuation, behaviour of wave orbital velocity components, sediment transport, and shoreline erosion. Throughout the tests conducted in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at LIM/UPC Barcelona, meadow density and submergence ratio remained constant, while irregular waves were run over an initial 1:15 sand beach profile. In both meadow layouts, a persistent decrease in wave height from the offshore area in front of the meadow to the breaking zone was found. This reduction was directly correlated with the length of the seagrass meadow. As a result of the reduction in wave energy, less erosion occurred at the shoreline in accordance with the decrease in wave height. The mean velocities exhibited changes in the velocity profile from the meadow area to the immediate zone behind the meadow, a phenomenon not observed in more onshoreward positions. Orbital velocities displayed a reduction exclusively for the long meadow case. This decrease was persistent up to the breaking zone. As a consequence of these changes, the long meadow layout led to a decrease in the volume of sediment transport and a breaker bar closer to the shoreline. The short meadow layout resulted in a higher volume of sediment transport compared to the long meadow layout, although still less than the benchmark layout. Furthermore, in the short meadow layout, the final bar was situated in a location similar to that observed in the benchmark layout.

Experimental study on the breaker bar response to tides

Experimental study on the breaker bar response to tides

On the Mechanisms Generating the Nearshore Bars on a Sandy Coastal Slope

The study is aimed at investigation of the problem in what conditions the morphodynamic self-organizational mechanism controlling the growth of small perturbations arisen on bed could be responsible for the nearshore bars development. A simplified sediment transport model is used in which the sediment discharge is turned out directly proportional to the local bed slope. This model allows reducing the problem to an analytical solving of the diffusion equation which gives the base to predict the evolution of perturbation arisen on bed. The conclusion is argued that the favorable preconditions for the nearshore bar formation can exist in the case of onshore sediment transport associated with the dominating contribution of wave asymmetry in transport process. However under conditions of steep stormy waves the undertow is developed providing offshore sediment flux from the beach. In this case, the breaker bar is formed by two mechanisms–self-organization and convergence of opposite sediment fluxes. The results obtained are in agreement with available data and also assist to explain some properties of multiple-bar systems found out from observations.

Influence of the Initial Beach Profile on the Sediment Transport Processes During Post‐Storm Onshore Bar Migration

AbstractOnshore bar migration is a characteristic bar behavior during post‐storm beach recovery. The present large‐scale experiments, feature bichromatic wave groups over an initially steep (1:15), fully‐evolving beach. The same accretive wave condition is applied on two different post‐storm beach profiles featuring outer and inner bars. They are characterized by a larger (smaller) shoreline erosion and a larger (smaller) outer breaker bar located farther away from (closer to) the shoreline depending on the larger (smaller) energy of the storm condition. After a considerable post‐storm recovery time, similar equilibrium profiles are obtained, stressing the link between wave condition and equilibrium beach configuration. However, the evolution toward the equilibrium is different and depends on the initial morphological condition (post‐storm beach profile). After the larger storm, the morphological evolution is termed accretive merging (AM) and characterized by merging of the two bars (outer bar dissipation). After the smaller storm, the morphological evolution denoted as accretive non‐merging (AN) is characterized by onshore migration of the two bars with constant distance between them (bar maintenance). This study focuses on processes around the outer bar. During AN it features wave breaking, causing large suspended net offshore transport. AM, in contrast, mainly features bedload related to short wave asymmetries and low decomposed net transport rate magnitudes. High suspended net offshore transport occurs solely onshore of the outer bar trough. This causes filling of the bar trough and bar dissipation during migration. Additionally, processes around the outer bars are linked to accretion onshore of the bars and at the shoreline.

Simulation of cross-shore breaker bar development utilizing a stabilized two-equation turbulence model

The performance of a recently developed “stabilized” turbulence (k−ω) closure model, which avoids un-physical over-production of turbulence prior to wave breaking, is investigated in the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulation of cross-shore sediment transport and breaker bar morphology. Comparisons are made with experiments as well as results from simulations employing (otherwise identical) “standard” turbulence closure. The stabilized turbulence model is demonstrated to result in major (qualitative and quantitative) improvements of the predicted breaker bar position and height. Conversely, the established over-production of turbulence in the standard closure, coupled with associated inaccurate undertow structure in the outer surf zone, contribute to erroneous offshore migration of the breaker bar. By correcting these shortcomings, the stabilized turbulence closure model rightly predicts initial onshore morphological migration of the breaker bar without any calibration. This work thus establishes proper turbulence modeling as a prerequisite for accurate CFD prediction of cross-shore sediment transport and profile morphology.

Analysis of the mechanics of breaker bar generation in cross-shore beach profiles based on numerical modelling

In this work, a recently developed numerical model, capable of solving the hydro- and morphodynamics of the cross-shore beach profile, is used to gain insight into the relevant processes driving the generation of a breaker bar. The bedload and suspended sediment transport contributions are analysed separately. It has been shown that the bedload transport tends to accumulate sediment on the onshore side of the undertow detachment point, at a distance that depends on the skewness of the waves and the magnitude of the friction velocity, shaping the onshore face of the breaker bar. In contrast, the suspended transport contributes to the growth of the offshore side of the breaker bar. Besides, a comparison between the sediment transport rates produced by different types of breakers shows a faster bathymetric evolution and an offshore displacement of the position of the breaker bar for high Iribarren numbers. Differences are consistent with the proposed mechanisms driving the evolution of the beach profile. The findings of this work provide a better understanding of the processes driving the formation of breaker bars, how they interact with each other and the relative importance of bedload and suspended sediment transport at each location of the cross-shore profile.

Numerical Simulation of Irregular Breaking Waves Using a Coupled Artificial Compressibility Method

Wave breaking is widely recognized as a very challenging phenomenon to emulate using numerical/computational methods. On that condition, the transition from modelling regular to irregular breaking waves is not trivial. Even though some issues are surpassed in CFD simulations, there still are two substantial problems to account for. The first one entails the proper generation of irregular waves in a numerical wave tank, while the second is the introduction of the turbulent regime of breaking in the solver. The present work addresses these two problems by employing the Stabilized k−ω SST model for turbulence closure and by proposing an efficient and accurate method for irregular wave generation. Apart from that, an artificial compressibility method is used for coupling the system of equations, which solves these equations in a non-segregated manner and overcomes problems pertaining to the existence of the interface in free-surface flows. The methodology is validated through the test case of irregular wave propagation over a submerged breaker bar and a piecewise sloped bottom, indicating the ability of the method to capture irregular breaking wave phenomena. Simulations are in fair agreement with experimental data regarding energy spectra and free surface time-series, while results suggest that the known over-prediction of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is significantly constrained by the stabilized k−ω SST model.

Experimental study of non-buoyant microplastic transport beneath breaking irregular waves on a live sediment bed

This paper presents experimental results on the cross-shore distribution of non-buoyant microplastic particles under irregular waves propagating, shoaling and breaking on live sediment sloping beds. Eighteen microplastic particle groups having various shapes, densities, and sizes are tested. The experiments consider two initial bottom configurations corresponding to a (i) plane bed and (ii) pre-developed singly-barred profile (more representative of field conditions). Four different microplastic accumulation hotspots are identified: offshore of the breaker bar, at the breaker bar, the plateau region between the breaker bar and beach, and the beach. It is found that the accumulation patterns primarily fall within three different particle Dean number regimes. The importance of plunger-type breaking waves for both on and offshore transport of microplastic particles is highlighted.

Relative sea level and wave energy changes recorded in a micro-tidal barrier in southern Brazil

AbstractConstructional sedimentary history of coastal barriers can provide insights regarding meteorological and oceanographic processes, and relative sea-level changes. We investigated the Holocene evolution of a segment of the Rio Grande do Sul Coastal Plain in southernmost Brazil. Data were obtained from ground-penetrating radargrams, optically stimulated luminescence dating, altimetry measurements, Google Earth imagery, and aerial photographs. These data allowed a qualitative and quantitative analysis of the beach profiles recorded in the radargrams. From which eolian, backshore/foreshore, breaker bars, and upper and lower shoreface radar facies were identified. The beach-related radar facies are recorded in twenty-eight progradational sand units (sigmoidal bodies). These units record increments of relatively steady deposition bounded by erosional surfaces produced by anomalous, high-magnitude storm events taking place about every 250 years. The upper shoreface strata include two to three breaker bars. Several pieces of evidence (number of breaker bars, upper shoreface gradient and progradation rate) suggest an alternation between dissipative and intermediate stages of barrier morphodynamics and a decrease of wave energy from 2 ka onwards. The barrier prograded during the last 7.1 ka, and initially, barrier progradation occurred because of a normal regression during a relative sea-level rise followed by a stillstand. Later, barrier progradation took place as a forced regression driven by a relative sea-level fall.

Near‐Bed Sediment Transport During Offshore Bar Migration in Large‐Scale Experiments

AbstractThis study presents novel insights into hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes in large‐scale laboratory experiments with bichromatic wave groups on a relatively steep initial beach slope (1:15). An Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler provided detailed information of velocity and sand concentration near the bed from shoaling up to the outer breaking zone including suspended sediment and sheet flow transport. The morphological evolution was characterized by offshore migration of the outer breaker bar. Decomposition of the total net transport revealed a balance of onshore‐directed, short wave‐related and offshore‐directed, current‐related net transport. The short wave‐related transport mainly occurred as bedload over small vertical extents. It was linked to characteristic intrawave sheet flow layer expansions during short wave crests. The current‐related transport rate featured lower maximum flux magnitudes but occurred over larger vertical extents. As a result, it was larger than the short wave‐related transport rate in all but one cross‐shore position, driving the bar’s offshore migration. Net flux magnitudes of the infragravity component were comparatively low but played a nonnegligible role for total net transport rate in certain cross‐shore positions. Net infragravity flux profiles sometimes featured opposing directions over the vertical. The fluxes were linked to a standing infragravity wave pattern and to the correlation of the short wave envelope, controlling suspension, with the infragravity wave velocity.

On the Interpretation of Coherent Marine Radar Backscatter From Surf Zone Waves

Observations of microwave backscatter from shoaling and breaking surface waves acquired with a shore-based, coherent-on-receive X-band marine radar are presented. The radar was located at the dune cliff of a sandy beach with two breaker bars. Waves were approximately shore-normal (inclination < 10°) during the study period. Consistent with other studies, the backscatter intensity from breaking waves is significantly increased ( <inline-formula xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"> <tex-math notation="LaTeX">$\approx 10$ </tex-math></inline-formula> dB compared to nonbreaking) with Doppler velocities close to the wave phase velocity in shallow water. The strong backscatter from active breakers can cause a significant amount of signal artifacts due to the leakage of pulse energy into adjacent range cells, in particular behind the breaking crests. In the near range, the backscatter from the undisturbed surface and such pulse smearing artifacts appear as distinct peaks inside the Doppler spectra. Thus, the velocity of both sources of scatterering can be retrieved using a dedicated peak separation algorithm. In the far range ( <inline-formula xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"> <tex-math notation="LaTeX">$r &gt; 500$ </tex-math></inline-formula> m), the artifacts dominate the Doppler signal behind breaking wave crests. Therefore, when investigating the spatio-temporal evolution of breaking wave-induced Doppler velocities with marine radar, the analysis should be restricted to the wave crests and the well-illuminated front faces of the waves. The evolution of Doppler spectra tracked along the crest of an exemplary individual breaking wave is extracted during the steepening, active- and post-breaking stage.

RANS SIMULATION OF BREAKER BAR DEVELOPMENT USING A STABILIZED TURBULENCE MODEL

The results demonstrate the significant advantages of utilizing formally stabilized turbulence closure models in accurately predicting the surf zone dynamics, sediment transport, and breaker bar morphology in the shoaling region and in the outer surf zone using RANS models. Simulated evolution using a stabilized turbulence model is demonstrated to predict cross-shore breaker bar position, growth and evolution. This is in contrast to results using (otherwise identical) standard turbulence closure, which tend to flush the bar further offshore. Further improvements are still needed to increase hydrodynamic accuracy, hence sediment transport and morphological evolution, in the inner surf zone.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/R_sm_06qQGM

Experimental Observation on Beach Evolution Process with Presence of Artificial Submerged Sand Bar and Reef

For observation on the influence mechanism of environmentally and aesthetically friendly artificial submerged sand bars and reefs in a process-based way, a set of experiments was conducted in a 50 m-long flume to reproduce the cross-shore beach morphodynamic process under four irregular wave conditions. The beach behavior is characterized by the scarp (indicating erosion) and the breaker bar (indicating deposition), respectively, and the scarp location can be formulated as a linear equation regarding the natural exponential of the duration time. Overall, main conclusions are: (1) the cross-shore structure of significant wave height and set-up is mainly determined by the artificial reef (AR); (2) the cross-shore distribution of wave skewness, asymmetry, and undertow (indicating shoaling and breaking) is more affected by the artificial submerged sand bar (ASB); (3) the ASB deforms and loses its sand as it attenuates incident waves, which leads to a complex sediment transport pattern; (4) the scarp retreat is related to the beach state, which can be changed by the AR and the ASB; (5) the AR, the ASB, and their combination decrease wave attack on the beach. In conclusion, this study proves positive effects of the AR and the ASB in beach protection through their process-based influences on beach behaviors and beach states for erosive waves.

Numerical modelling of intra-wave sediment transport on sandy beaches using a non-hydrostatic, wave-resolving model

The mutual feedback between the swash zone and the surf zone is known to affect large-scale morphodynamic processes such as breaker bar migration on sandy beaches. To fully resolve this feedback in a process-based manner, the morphodynamics in the swash zone and due to swash-swash interactions must be explicitly solved, e.g., by means of a wave-resolving numerical model. Currently, few existing models are able to fully resolve the complex morphodynamics in the swash zone, and none is practically applicable for engineering purposes. This work aims at improving the numerical modelling of the intra-wave sediment transport on sandy beaches in an open-source wave-resolving hydro-morphodynamic framework (e.g., non-hydrostatic XBeach). A transport equation for the intra-wave suspended sediment concentration, including an erosion and a deposition rate, is newly implemented in the model. Two laboratory experiments involving isolated waves and wave trains are simulated to analyse the performance of the model. Numerical results show overall better performance in simulating single waves rather than wave trains. For the latter, the modelling of the morphodynamic response improves in the swash zone compared with the existing sediment transport modelling approach within non-hydrostatic XBeach, while the need of including additional physical processes to better capture sediment transport and bed evolution in the surf zone is highlighted in the paper.

Stabilized RANS simulation of surf zone kinematics and boundary layer processes beneath large-scale plunging waves over a breaker bar

This paper presents numerical simulations of a bichromatic wave group propagating and breaking over a fixed breaker bar. The simulations are performed using a newly stabilized Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) two-equation turbulence closure, which solves the longstanding problem of over-production of turbulence beneath surface waves in the nearly potential flow region prior to breaking. This model has previously been tested on small-scale spilling breaking regular waves, whereas in this work focus is on full (rather than model) scale application, wave groups (rather than regular waves) and plunging (rather than spilling) breakers. Additionally this paper has novel emphasis on bottom boundary layer dynamics which are very important for cross-shore sediment transport predictions. The model is validated by comparing with results from a previous experimental campaign. The model is shown to predict the surface elevations, velocities and turbulence well in the shoaling and outer surf-zone, avoiding turbulence over-production and incorrect undertow structure typical of standard turbulence closures. Comparison with detailed boundary layer measurements in the shoaling position reveals that the model is able to accurately capture the temporal dynamics of the entire wave boundary layer, including evolution of the boundary layer thickness, velocity overshoot and phase-shifts. Comparison in the surf zone additionally reveals that the model is able to accurately capture the transport of breaking-induced turbulence into the wave boundary layer. The performance of the model indicates that it can be used directly in the simulation of cross-shore sediment transport and morphology and also be used to study important hydrodynamic processes, which can help improve the predictive skill of morphodynamic profile models applied in coastal engineering.

Influence of storm sequencing on breaker bar and shoreline evolution in large-scale experiments

New large-scale experiments on the influence of storm sequencing on beach profile evolution are presented. The experiments comprised three sequences that commenced from the same initial beach profile. Each sequence consisted of two storms of different energy, with each storm followed by a recovery phase. A specific focus of the experiments was the influence of storm chronology as well as the influence of the recovery wave energy and duration on beach evolution. The breaker bar and the shoreline are studied as indicators for the beach response. Both evolve towards an equilibrium location for each wave condition where the breaker bar reaches its equilibrium much faster than the shoreline. Overall, no enhanced beach erosion due to storm sequencing is observed. Despite a similar cumulative wave power of the three sequences, the final beach configuration of each sequence seems to be determined by the last wave condition instead of previous storms. However, storm sequencing is important when the beach profile has not yet fully recovered before being disrupted by the subsequent storm. In this case, the second storm does not necessarily cause further erosion but can result in onshore sediment transport and hence, form part of the recovery. The bulk onshore sediment transport as well as the shoreline recovery rate vary depending on the wave condition and the profile disequilibrium and show a maximum value for a recovery condition with an intermediate wave energy. The very low energy condition that was performed for a long duration (24hours) generated a near-stationary beach profile with typical features of a reflective beach.

Benthic Species Distribution Linked to Morphological Features of a Barred Coast

The composition of benthic species communities in the nearshore zone is closely related to the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions. Sustainable management of the coastal ecosystem requires knowledge about the natural dynamics as well as human-induced changes on the ecosystem. To improve our knowledge of the benthic species distribution along a dissipative sandy shore with multiple breaker bars, an extensive dataset was collected in the nearshore zone of the barrier islands Ameland and Schiermonnikoog in the Dutch North Sea. From 2010 to 2014, every year, approximately 180 grab samples along 18 cross-shore transects were collected and analyzed for sediment characteristics and macrobenthic species composition. Mixed-effect-models and partial redundancy analysis were used to analyze the importance of morphological features (i.e., slopes, bar crests, and troughs) as an explanatory variable for the benthic species distribution. The results indicate that the morphological features in themselves explain three times more variation than the environmental parameters used. This demonstrates the importance of morphological features as a factor in explaining the distribution of benthic species communities in the nearshore. Detailed information on morphological features is easy to obtain from bathymetry maps or visual inspection. Incorporating morphological features in species distribution models will therefore help to improve sustainable management of our valuable sandy coastal systems.

Beach Profile Evolution towards Equilibrium from Varying Initial Morphologies

The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates different sediment transport patterns. Largest beach changes and differences in hydrodynamics occur in the beginning of the experimental cases, highlighting the coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics for beach evolution towards the same profile. The coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics that leads to the same final beach profile is associated with differences in sediment transport in the surf and swash zone, and is explained by the presence of bar and berm features. A large breaker bar and concave profile promote wave energy dissipation and reduce the magnitudes of the mean near-bed flow velocity close to the shoreline limiting shoreline erosion. In contrast, a beach profile with reflective features, such as a large berm and a small or no bar, increases negative velocity magnitudes at the berm toe promoting shoreline retreat. The findings are summarised in a conceptual model that describes how the beach changes towards equilibrium from two different initial morphologies.

Wave Boundary Layer Hydrodynamics and Sheet Flow Properties Under Large‐Scale Plunging‐Type Breaking Waves

AbstractWave boundary layer (WBL) dynamics are measured with an Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) across the sheet flow‐dominated wave‐breaking region of regular large‐scale waves breaking as a plunger over a developing breaker bar. Acoustic sheet flow measurements are first evaluated quantitatively in comparison to Conductivity Concentration Meter (CCM+) data used as a reference. The near‐bed orbital velocity field exhibits expected behaviors in terms of wave shape, intrawave WBL thickness, and velocity phase leads. The observed fully turbulent flow regime all across the studied wave‐breaking region supports the model‐predicted transformation of free‐stream velocity asymmetry into near‐bed velocity skewness inside the WBL. Intrawave concentration dynamics reveal the existence of a lower pickup layer and an upper sheet flow layer similar to skewed oscillatory sheet flows, and with similar characteristics in terms of erosion depth and sheet flow layer thickness. Compared to the shoaling region, differences in terms of sheet flow and hydrodynamic properties of the flow are observed at the plunge point, attributed to the locally enhanced wave breaker turbulence. The ACVP‐measured total sheet flow transport rate is decomposed into its current‐, wave‐, and turbulence‐driven components. In the shoaling region, the sand transport is found to be fully dominated by the onshore skewed wave‐driven component with negligible phase lag effects. In the outer surf zone, the total net flux exhibits a three‐layer vertical structure typical of skewed oscillatory sheet flows. However, in the present experiments this structure originates from offshore‐directed undertow‐driven flux, rather than from phase lag effects.

WAVE OVERTOPPING WITH A CHANGING STEEP SANDY FORESHORE, CONVENTIONAL AND NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF RESULTS

Large scale tests were performed in the large scale facility GWK at Hannover, Germany, within the HYDRALAB+ project ICODEP: Impact of Changing fOreshore on flood DEfence Performance. The test set-up consisted of a relatively steep 1:15 sandy beach profile in front of a battered seawall with 10:1 slope (almost vertical). Two storms were generated, S1 and S2 with for each storm a specific combined surge and tide profile with varying wave conditions (sea states) depending on water level. These two types of storms have been modelled in varying order, giving three types of storm clusters (C1, C2, and C3). After each sea state the foreshore profile was measured and during each sea state wave conditions as well as wave overtopping have been measured. The changing foreshore showed a breaker bar formation as well as scour or accretion directly in front of the battered wall, depending on water level.