Array Of Wave Gauges Research Articles

Physical Modeling of Tsunamis Generated by Submarine Volcanic Eruptions

AbstractSubmarine volcanic eruptions can induce major local and regional tsunami hazards through varied source mechanisms. Large‐scale experiments of tsunamis generated by submarine volcanic eruptions are conducted to study the cylindrical wave generation and propagation in a three‐dimensional wave basin. A unique volcanic tsunami generator (VTG) was deployed at the bottom of the wave basin to generate volcanic tsunamis with repeatable and controlled source parameters. The physical modeling is based on the generalized Froude number defined with the VTG velocity and the near source water depth. The pneumatically driven vertical stroke motion generates leading elevation waves in the wave basin. The tsunami waves generated by the VTG are measured with a wave gauge array. The wave maker performance is characterized by the dimensionless leading wave amplitudes and periods. The experimental data show the variations of the leading wave amplitude, period, and celerity along the radial propagation distance. The generated cylindrical waves belong to the weakly nonlinear wave regime in the near field with decaying wave amplitude along radial propagation. The attenuation rate of the leading wave exceeds the range from the linear wave theory in runs with higher Froude numbers. The dimensionless leading wave period increases with the dimensionless propagation distance due to the dispersion relation. Empirical equations for the characteristic wave parameters such as amplitudes and periods are derived. The experimental results contribute to the understanding of volcanic tsunami generation processes and may serve rapid volcanic tsunami hazard assessments as well as the advancement and validation of numerical models.

Measurement Of Spatial-Temporal Waves In The Laboratory Using Computer Vision Technolog

Given the complexity of ocean wave phenomena, physical modeling continues to be essential in various engineering and research applications. Wave height, a characteristic measured in nearly all projects, is commonly assessed using resistance/capacitance wave gauges. However, a significant limitation of these traditional wave gauges is their point-based nature, which restricts their ability to describe detailed spatial wave characteristics, especially during wave nonlinearity or when waveforms change. Furthermore, to reconstruct the 3D wave field, an array of wave gauges is often employed alongside an appropriate interpolation algorithm. Additionally, wave gauges may alter flow/wave conditions in specific scenarios. To address these limitations, various non-intrusive measurement techniques have been proposed. Gomit et al. (2022) classified these into stereoscopic, projection, and light-based methods, including LiDAR (Blenkinsopp et al., 2012), RGB-D cameras (Martínez-Aranda et al., 2018), and binocular stereo vision (Li et al., 2022). However, their applicability is constrained by factors such as optical setup complexity and device cost. With the rapid advancement of computer vision technology, it is possible to improve these issues and better describe temporal and spatial wave field variations using such techniques. This conference contribution details the reconstruction of the temporal and spatial 3D free water surface using photogrammetry techniques applied to images from consumer webcams. It also compares these results with measurements obtained from a wave gauge.

Hydrodynamic and energy-harvesting performance of an isolated oscillating water column device: An experimental study

Most previous experimental studies on the hydrodynamic and aerodynamic performances of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter were conducted in a wave flume. In this study, an experimental study on an isolated OWC plant is carried out in a wave tank. The interactions between the OWC system and incident regular and irregular waves are analyzed by measuring the surrounding wave fields using a wave gauge array. The wave distribution patterns and reflection ratios of the OWC model are presented. In addition, the free-surface elevation, air pressure varying amplitude, turbine torque output, and relative capture width ratios and efficiencies in regular and irregular wave scenarios are measured and analyzed. The operating performances of the OWC model are analyzed and compared to the results derived from the flume tests. An overall performance reduction of over 20% can be observed in the wave tank tests. In addition, the representative results of the overall capture width ratio of the OWC model derived from irregular wave tests are corrected from the scaling effects caused by the similarity contradiction.

A Lightweight, Autonomous, Down-looking Wave Gauge Array in Shallow Lakes

A Lightweight, Autonomous, Down-looking Wave Gauge Array in Shallow Lakes

Wave- and current-dominated combined orthogonal flows over fixed rough beds

Orthogonal wave-current interaction often occurs in coastal regions, when waves approach the shoreline near-orthogonally and longshore currents are present. Notwithstanding its wide relevance, this phenomenon is far from being understood to a full extent, especially in the presence of bed roughness. Indeed the effects on the apparent roughness due to the combination of steady currents and surface waves propagating at right angles are still a matter of debate, both in the current and in the wave dominated cases.To this aim, the hydrodynamic effects of an orthogonal regular wave on a current propagating over a rough bed were investigated; two different rough beds, one sandy and one made of gravel, were considered. Both surface elevation and velocity profiles were acquired by means of an array of wave gauges and Micro Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters positioned within the tank. Here the range of the investigated parameters was significantly enlarged with respect to the existing literature studies.The present paper focuses on the analysis of the mean velocity profiles. More specifically, observation of velocity profiles shows that the current to wave velocity ratio and the bed roughness play an important role, by impacting the value of the apparent roughness. Indeed it was found that as far as the flow is current dominated the addition of waves on the current increases the flow resistance. The opposite happens when the flow is wave dominated, irrespective of the bed roughness type. In particular, the apparent roughness increases as far as the wave plus current to current only friction velocity ratio increases. The increase is more rapid if the wave plus current prevails on the current only friction velocity.

Experimental and numerical assessment of deterministic nonlinear ocean waves prediction algorithms using non-uniformly sampled wave gauges

We assess the capability of fast wave models to deterministically predict nonlinear ocean surface waves from non-uniformly distributed data such as sampled from an optical ocean sensor. Linear and weakly nonlinear prediction algorithms are applied to long-crested irregular waves based on a set of laboratory experiments and corresponding numerical simulations. An array of wave gauges is used for data acquisition, representing the typical spatial sampling an optical sensor (e.g., LIDAR) would make at grazing incidence. Predictions of the weakly nonlinear Improved Choppy Wave Model are compared to those of the Linear Wave Theory with and without a nonlinear dispersion relationship correction. Wave models are first inverted based on gauge data which provides the initial model parameters, then propagated to issue a prediction. We find that the wave prediction accuracy converges with the amount of input data used in the inversion. When waves are propagated in the models, correctly modeling the nonlinear wave phase velocity provides the main improvement in accuracy, while including nonlinear wave shape effects only improves surface elevation representation in the spatio-temporal region where input data are acquired. Surface slope prediction accuracy, however, strongly depends on the appropriate nonlinear wave shape modeling.

Correcting wave reflection estimates in the coastal zone

The impact of random noise on an existing two-dimensional method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra using an array of wave gauges is investigated using simulated time series with known wave amplitudes, reflection coefficients, and signal-to-noise ratios. Both the incident and reflected spectra are overestimated by a quantity that can exceed 100% for signal-to-noise ratios less than 1. Consequently, estimated reflection coefficients are also overestimated with larger errors occurring when the known reflection is low. Coherence decreases systematically with increasing noise and this trend is used to develop a mathematical function to correct for the observed bias and provide 95% confidence intervals for incident and reflected spectra and reflection coefficients. The correction technique is shown to be very effective in reducing error by up to ~90%. Field data from a natural beach are used to demonstrate the application of these results; corrected values suggest that reflection coefficients are frequently overestimated by over 50%.

The SPAIR method: Isolating incident and reflected directional wave spectra in multidirectional wave basins

Wave tank tests aiming to reproduce realistic or site specific conditions will commonly involve using directionally spread, short-crested sea states. The measurement of these directional characteristics is required for the purposes of calibrating and validating the modelled sea state. Commonly used methods of directional spectrum reconstruction, based on directional spreading functions, have an inherent level of uncertainty associated with them. In this paper we aim to reduce the uncertainty in directional spectrum validation by introducing the SPAIR (Single-summation PTPD Approach with In-line Reflections) method, in combination with a directional wave gauge array. A variety of wave conditions were generated in the FloWave Ocean Energy Research Facility, Edinburgh, UK, to obtain a range of sea state and reflection scenarios. The presented approach is found to provide improved estimates of directional spectra over standard methods, reducing the mean apparent directional deviation down to below 6% over the range of sea states. Additionally, the method isolates incident and reflected spectra in both the frequency and time domain, and can separate these wave systems over 360°. The accuracy of the method is shown to be only slightly sensitive to the level of in-line reflection present, but at present cannot deal with oblique reflections. The SPAIR method, as presented or with slight modification, will allow complex directional sea states to be validated more effectively, enabling multidirectional wave basins to simulate realistic wave scenarios with increased confidence.

Experimental study of wave dynamics in coastal wetlands

This paper presents laboratory experiments of wave-driven hydrodynamics in a three-dimensional laboratory model of constructed coastal wetlands. The simulated wetland plants were placed on the tops of conically-shaped mounds, such that the laboratory model was dynamically similar to marsh mounds constructed in Dalehite Cove in Galveston Bay, Texas. Three marsh mounds were placed in the three-dimensional wave basin of the Haynes Coastal Engineering Laboratory at Texas A&M University, with the center of the central wetland mound located in the center of the tank along a plane of symmetry in the alongshore direction. The experiments included two water depths, corresponding to emergent and submerged vegetation, and four wave conditions, typical of wind-driven waves and ocean swell. The wave conditions were designed so that the waves would break on the offshore slope of the wetland mounds, sending a strong swash current through the vegetated patches. Three different spacings between the wetland mounds were tested. To understand the effects of vegetation, all experiments were repeated with and without simulated plants. Measurements were made throughout the nearshore region surrounding the wetland mounds using a dense array of acoustic Doppler velocimeters and capacitance wave gauges. These data were analyzed to quantify the significant wave height, phase average wave field and phase lags, wave energy dissipation over the vegetated patches, mean surface water levels, and the near-bottom current field. The significant wave height and energy dissipation results demonstrated that the bathymetry is the dominant mechanism for wave attenuation for this design. The presence of plants primarily increases the rate of wave attenuation through the vegetation and causes a blockage effect on flow through the vegetation. The nearshore circulation is most evident in the water level and velocity data. In the narrowest mound spacing, flow is obstructed in the channel between mounds by the mound slope and forced over the wetlands. The close mound spacing also retains water in the nearshore, resulting in a large setup and lower flows through the channel. As the spacing increases, flow is less obstructed in the channel. This allows for more refraction of waves off the mounds and deflection of flow around the plant patches, yielding higher recirculating flow through the channel between mounds. An optimal balance of unobstructed flow in the channel, wave dissipation over the mounds, and modest setup in the nearshore results when the edge-to-edge plant spacing is equal to the mound base diameter.

Laboratory research on effective test area of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers

The size and shape of the effective test area are crucial to consider when short-crested waves are created by segmented wavemakers. The range of the effective test area of short-crested waves simulated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is analyzed in this paper. The experimental investigation on the wave field distribution of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is conducted by using an array of wave gauges. Wave spectra and directional spreading function are analyzed and the results show that when the main direction is at a certain angle with the normal line of wave generators, the wave field of 3D short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers has good spatial uniformity within the model test area. The effective test area can provide good wave environments for seakeeping model tests of various ocean engineering structures in the deep ocean engineering basin.

Experimental and Lagrangian modeling of nonlinear water waves propagation on a sloping bottom

This paper presents an experimental and theoretical investigation of nonlinear water wave propagation over a sloping bed. Firstly, a series of monochromatic wave laboratory experiments were performed in order to measure the particle trajectories, evolution of wave profile, and wave phase velocity as wave propagates on a sloping bottom. The particle trajectories are quantified by means of images from a high speed camera, whereas the evolution of wave profile and variation of wave phase velocity are measured by a wave gauge array. Subsequently, the free-surface elevation, phase velocity, particle trajectories, and breaking wave height are estimated using a Lagrangian nonlinear wave transformation model. Model predictions show a reasonable agreement with experimental data.

Field Measurements of Wave Characteristics on a Near‐Horizontal Shore Platform, Mahia Peninsula, North Island, New Zealand

AbstractWaves are an important process responsible for the initiation and subsequent development of intertidal shore platforms. However, few field studies to date have described wave processes on shore platforms. A field experiment was conducted using an across‐shore array of wave gauges, including a directional sensor, on a near‐horizontal platform at Mahia Peninsula, North Island, New Zealand. Results show that the platform is very efficient in filtering wave energy at gravity wave frequencies (>0.05 Hz), with 40–80% reduction in wave height measured across the 140 m wide platform. By contrast, infragravity waves are present on the platform and increase in magnitude towards the cliff toe. Directional wave analysis indicates that wave reflection is mainly restricted to infragravity wave frequencies, demonstrating the differences in gravity and infragravity wave behaviour on the platform studied. Results indicate that, under fair weather conditions, the role of waves as an agent of cliff toe erosion is likely to be limited at present, although they are probably important for removing sediments accumulated at the cliff toe. The observed increase in infragravity wave energy towards the cliff toe implies that these long‐period waves may be important geomorphic agents on shore platforms.

A Two-Scale Approximation for Efficient Representation of Nonlinear Energy Transfers in a Wind Wave Spectrum. Part II: Application to Observed Wave Spectra

Abstract In Part I of this series, a new method for estimating nonlinear transfer rates in wind waves, based on a two-scale approximation (TSA) to the full Boltzmann integral (FBI) for quadruplet wave–wave interactions, was presented, and this new method was tested for idealized spectral data. Here, the focus is on comparisons of the TSA and the discrete interaction approximation (DIA) with the FBI for observed wave spectra from field measurements. Observed wave spectra are taken from a wave gauge array in Currituck Sound and a directional waverider off the coast near the Field Research Facility at Duck, North Carolina. Results show that the TSA compares much more favorably to the FBI than does the DIA, even for cases in which the parametric component of the formulation does not capture the spectral energy distribution very well. These results remain valid for the TSA estimates when the FBI results are significantly affected by the directional distribution of energy. It is also shown that although nonlinear transfers are substantially weaker in swell portions of the spectrum these interactions contribute significantly to the spectral evolution and net energy balance in long-distance swell propagation.

The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum: Part II — The wavenumber spectrum

Data from a spatial array of wave gauges is analysed using the Wavelet Directional Method (WDM) to directly determine the wavenumber spectrum. The data shows that the asymptotic depth-limited wavenumber spectrum can be represented as a two-parameter form, which is far simpler than the corresponding frequency spectrum. The WDM analysis shows that there are significant nonlinear processes active in the finite depth water, which results in energy being “smeared” across a range of wavenumbers and frequencies around the standard dispersion shell. As a result, the wavenumber spectrum has much less peak enhancement than seen in the frequency spectrum obtained with standard Fourier analysis. In addition, the wavenumber spectrum does not have the clear harmonic previously observed in the finite depth frequency spectrum. This result demonstrates that the harmonic is nonlinearly phase-locked to the spectral peak.

Kinematics of breaking tsunami wavefronts: A data set from large scale laboratory experiments

This paper provides an overview of a new large scale laboratory data set on the kinematics of breaking tsunami wavefronts. The aim of the experiments was to provide an open access data set for model testing, calibration and verification, with particular emphasis on fluid kinematics in the wave breaking and run-up (swash) zones. The experiments were performed over a composite slope in the tsunami wave basin at the O. H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University. Data for ten different wave conditions were collected, including non-breaking and breaking waves, and both shore breaks and fully developed long bores. Surface elevation and fluid kinematics were measured with a closely spaced array of surface piercing wave gauges, non-contact ultrasonic wave gauges and four 3-D side-looking Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The array was traversed from the nearshore (depth = 0.2 m) to the middle and upper run-up zone, providing kinematic data at 30 cross-shore locations. Video was also recorded from 4 cameras covering the propagation, breaking and run-up zones. Surface elevation, flow velocities and the wave maker displacement were also recorded to provide offshore boundary conditions. The experiments include conditions with wave heights up to 0.55 m, notional wave periods up to 20 s and run-up lengths of up to 15.2 m on a 1/30 slope. In terms of the slope in the shoaling and breaker zones, the data correspond to Iribarren numbers in the range of 0.26–5.6. Raw, calibrated and processed data are stored with open access within the OSU Tsunami Wave Basin Experiment Notebook, which provides full access to all the wave maker control signals, data, instrument coordinates, and processing and plotting software. This paper serves as an introduction to the data set, demonstrates data quality and provides an initial analysis of some key parameters that govern the impact of tsunami events, including run-up versus offshore wave conditions and nearshore bore height, the maximum inundation depths at the original shoreline position, and the time to maximum inundation depth and flow reversal. Examples of temporal and convective accelerations and turbulent flow components are also presented to illustrate further details of the kinematics.

Evaluation of Two Numerical Wave Models with Inlet Physical Model

This paper evaluates the performance of two numerical wave models, GHOST and STWAVE, with measurements made in an idealized inlet physical model. The emphasis of this paper is on the overall performance of these models in coastal inlets. Both wave models are similar in that they employ a finite-difference method to solve the wave action conservation equation for the steady-state wave spectral transformation. However, these models differ in the computation of diffraction, reflection, wave breaking, and representation of the directional spectrum transformation. The models’ performance is compared with a new set of physical model data for four different idealized inlet configurations. Wave height is measured in the physical model by a linear array of capacitance wave gauges, and wave direction is measured by a remote-sensing video-camera system. The comparison with data is presented as mean absolute relative errors of wave height and mean absolute difference of wave direction. Both wave models produced similar results, but neither could accurately describe waves observed in the physical model in inlets and near structures. The mean absolute relative error of wave height prediction from models was between 22 and 40% as compared with the measured data. The mean absolute error of wave direction estimates ranged from 5to12degrees. Overall, wave direction estimates from GHOST in inlets and near structures compared slightly better with measurements.

The Dispersion Relation of Short Wind Waves from Space–Time Wave Measurements*

Abstract To study the dispersion relation of short wind waves, a linear wave gauge array (WGA) is configured and mounted on a wave-following buoy to conduct in situ space–time measurements of short gravity waves. Results from two field deployments of the WGA buoy in growing seas are presented. The two-dimensional (2D) wavenumber–frequency spectra derived from the space–time measurements provide a direct examination on the relation of wave frequency and wavenumber of short waves in the along-wind direction. Both wavenumber-based and frequency-based phase velocities are extracted from the 2D spectra. The effect of higher harmonics resulting from the Fourier decomposition of nonlinear wave profiles is more prominent to the frequency-based phase velocity than the wavenumber-based phase velocity. The wavenumber-based phase velocity is consistent with that according to the linear dispersion relation, while the frequency-based phase velocity becomes larger due to the higher harmonics.

Determining the hydrographic parameters of the surface of water from the image sequences of a CCD camera

Water surface fluctuations were analyzed using image sequences from a CCD (charge coupled device) camera. Both regular and irregular waves were used for the study. A transfer function is obtained by comparing the gray scales of the image and results of “in-situ” wave gauge array measurements. The effects of non-uniform illumination within the wave basin are imbedded in the transfer function. Thus, the obtained transfer function is directly applicable to all other areas of interests within the wave basin. Estimated wave heights are all in qualitative agreement with those obtained through direct measurements. It is shown that the averaged relative error between these two wave heights is less than 16%.

Frequency Banded Wave Climate Description Based on the Observed Directional Spectra

A new system for directional wave spectrum observation was developed by improving the Nationwide Ocean Wave information network for Ports and HArbourS (NOWPHAS). Either Doppler Type Wave Directional Meter (DWDM) or Wave Gauge Array System is adopted for wave observations. Directional spectra are estimated by EMLM method for DWDM and EMEP method for array system. For the convenience, the obtained directional spectra are expressed as the frequency banded wave heights and directions corresponding to the wave spectrum. Examples of annual statistics of the directional wave spectra at three typical NOWPHAS wave stations are introduced in this paper.

A general theory of three-dimensional wave groups Part II: Interaction with a breakwater

The equation obtained in Part I predicts how an exceptionally high wave occurs at any fixed point x o within a wind wave field. The equation may be applied with a theoretical spectrum or directly with the random time series obtained by an array of wave gauges in the field. From both approaches, it emerges that a very high wave at a breakwater occurs because a well-defined three-dimensional wave group at the apex of its development hits against the breakwater, and that a very high wave at some distance before the breakwater occurs because of the collision of two wave groups: the first one going back after having been reflected, and the second one approaching the breakwater. In order to test the theory, a special breakwater was assembled off the beach at Reggio-Calabria where the significant height of the wind waves typically ranges from 0.20 to 0.40 m. When an exceptionally high wave ( H = 9.6 σ) occurred at a point before this breakwater, the records made by a gauge array confirmed all the essential features of the prediction.