Apparel Fabrics Research Articles

INVESTIGATION OF FABRIC TACTILE CHARACTERISTICS FOR DIFFERENT CLOTHING BASED ON ELDERLY PERSPECTIVES

Thailand has an aging society which is affected by the social and economic dimensions of the country. Products and services for the well-being of the elderly are becoming very competitive markets. This study investigated Thai elderly preferences toward apparel fabrics. In total, 40 Thai elderly women were interviewed on their purchasing behavior relating to clothing and their attitudes to different types of fabric. The free sorting task method was applied to 28 fabric samples based on their suitability for different applications by elderly people. The results showed that the factors influencing apparel purchasing by the elderly were price, tactile properties, and apparel pattern design. The elderly considered sensorial comfort, breathability, and softness as important components of good quality in a fabric for well-being. The sorting task produced 6 groups. The sleeping wear group was associated with all knitted fabrics and related to soft and stretched textures that provided comfort, while loungewear had a high association with the fabrics made of linen fiber based on the descriptive words ‘soft’, ‘comfort’, ‘airy’, ‘natural’, and ‘stiff’. Business professional wear had a high association with fabrics made of silk, linen, and cotton based on the descriptive words ‘thick’, ‘stiff’, and ‘look expensive’. These findings could provide guidelines for designing and manufacturing fabrics whose characteristics match the demands of the elderly, as well as guiding the fabrics to use to create clothing providing well-being for the elderly.

Mechanical and in-use properties of nonwoven fabrics made of bicomponent microfilament PET/PA fibers

As nonwovens have advantages like low cost and tunable properties, their implementation to apparels can create advantages. Weakness of nonwoven fabrics for apparel applications arises from their low mechanical properties and drape. However, their properties can be designed by changing the raw materials and production methods. Bicomponent fiber spinning combined with hydroentangling can create advantages by forming microfilaments within the fabric structure, in this regard. Therefore, in this study, nonwoven fabrics of polyester:polyamide 6 (PET/PA6) bicomponent fibers exposed to hydroentangling were tested for their mechanical and in-use properties in order to reveal their usability as apparel fabrics. Results show that mechanical properties of samples reached to a certain level compared to a woven reference fabric. Also, their breathability properties are better than the woven competitor. However, bending and drape properties still require improvements to be used for leisure wear. Apparel models with lower drapes can be selected for nonwoven fabric applications.

Compostability of wool textiles by soil burial

Chemical processing has the potential to impact the composting of wool fabrics, influencing potential end of life options. The aim of this study was to investigate the comparative composting behaviors of a range of knitted and woven merino apparel fabrics. The range included scoured only control fabrics and variants which had undergone different chemical processes during manufacturing, including dyeing, bleaching, stain-repellence and various shrink-resist treatments. Biodegradation by composting was elicited by a soil-burial process incorporating three sets of randomized samples buried to a depth of 10 cm. Replicates were removed at regular intervals up to a maximum of 15 weeks burial. The dyes present in the fabric showed the greatest impact on composting. Chrome dyed samples exhibited only 60% mass loss over the trial period, whereas the other 10 fabrics all lost on average over 95%. When assessing easy care treatments, chlorine–Hercosett provided consistent initial resistance to decomposition. Soil burial test results suggested that chemical processing does impact the composting of wool fabrics, under the conditions of soil burial. Statistically significant longer-term effects were only observed for the chrome dyed sample. • Chemical processing of wool fabrics influences the onset of composting as a result of soil burial. • Dyeing fabrics had the greatest impact on the onset of composting as a result of soil burial. • Machine-washable wool has initial resistance to decomposition, compared with untreated wool, as a result of soil burial.

Simple post-treatment of cotton fabric for efficient personal moisture management

Wet comfort is an important indicator for evaluating human wearing comfort, and personal moisture management fabrics can quickly transfer sweat from the skin surface to meet the human body's requirements for wet comfort. Although cotton fabrics have an excellent water absorption capacity, the inability of moisture to transfer quickly causes the fabrics to cling to the skin and causes discomfort. Here we demonstrate personal moisture management cotton fabric by two-step grafting treatments, which are relatively simple and usually do not fall off as easily as a simple coating process. Moreover, unlike traditional double-layer or sandwich structures that absorb water and grow heavy, the fabric's quick-drying qualities are accomplished by expanding the area of water evaporation. According to the results of liquid moisture management and water evaporation rate tests, this fabric's moisture diffusion radius is 5 mm larger than that of pure cotton fabrics, and its evaporation rate can reach 0.2082 g/(m2 · d). In addition, it is also suitable for high-volume apparel fabrics. This work paves the way for personal moisture management cotton fabric.

Prediction of Shrinkage Behavior of Stretch Fabrics Using Machine-Learning Based Artificial Neural Network

Stretch fabric provides good formability and does not restrict the movement of the body for increased tension levels. The major expectations of a wearer in an apparel fabric are a high level of mechanical comfort and good aesthetics. The prediction of shrinkage in stretch fabric is a very complex and unexplored topic. There are no existing formulas that can effectively predict the shrinkage of stretch fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to develop a novel model based on an artificial neural network to predict the shrinkage of stretch fabrics. Different stretch fabrics (core-spun lycra yarn) with stretch in the weft direction were manufactured in the industry using a miniature weaving machine. A model was built using an artificial neural network method, including training of the data set, followed by testing of the model on the test data set. The correlation of factors, such as warp count, weft count, greige PPI, greige EPI, and greige width, was established with respect to boil-off width.

Sensory analysis and Principal Component Analysis: a sustainable approach for quality control of stretch denim fabrics

This study proposes a simplified approach to optimise the portfolio of denim manufacturers by reducing the cost of unattractive or undifferentiated assortments for future consumers based on their ability to perceive and discriminate sensory comfort. A key factor in a successful textile value chain is end consumers, who can be considered naive evaluators when it comes to sensory analysis, as they tend to touch apparel fabrics to perceive the sensory comfort they feel when wearing them. In this context, 16 naive assessors were recruited to quantitatively characterise six bipolar sensory attributes as hand descriptors of an assortment of five washed stretch denim fabrics based on tactile properties. Statistical analysis of the extensive data was performed using the multivariate technique PCA. Two principal components that explained 70.46% to 76.67% of the total observed variance for the five washed denim fabrics provided an adequate summary of the sensory data reported, so relationships between sensory attributes as hand descriptors and ratings given by the 16 untrained assessors were examined. Statistical tests showed that all six bipolar attributes were important for sensory analysis and that inter-rater agreement was low. However, considering the sensory perception of the untrained evaluators (i.e., consumers), it was concluded that four of the five washed stretch denim fabrics could be an option for product portfolio diversification. Thus, from a strategic and sustainability perspective, PCA for sensory analysis may be helpful in the quality control of washed stretch denim

Developing textile sustainability education in the curriculum: pedagogical approaches to material innovation in fashion

ABSTRACT The textile industry needs to adopt environmentally sustainable approaches to address ecologically damaging practices. Whilst driven by initiatives such as Textiles 2030, it is current students who will carry this agenda forward. This project investigated pedagogical approaches to develop sustainable textiles for the fashion design curriculum. Pilot studies, using bacterial cellulose (BC) as a material for millinery, revealed members of the public were prepared to experiment with this novel material, and BC was compatible with traditional hat-making techniques. A further study challenged secondary school students, based on an experiential learning model, to grow their own BC biofilm, exploring this as a sustainable apparel fabric. Initial attitudes of reluctance developed into acceptance once engaged in the practical activity. This study illustrates that with appropriate communication and education strategies, the principles of sustainability in fashion, and the acceptability of novel materials, can be engendered in different audiences.

Seam Performance of Nonwoven Apparel Fabrics

Nonwoven fabrics have limited usage as durable apparel fabrics. Their relatively lower drape, mechanical properties and flexibility decrease their chance to be used as apparel fabrics. However, in the last decades, there are attempts to improve the nonwoven fabric properties in order to seize an opportunity for their use in durable apparel applications. At this point, usage of bicomponent fiber technology together with hydro-entanglement fixation method was found beneficial. In addition to the fabric properties, the suitability of nonwoven fabric for durable seams are quite important for their usability as apparel fabrics. Therefore, in this study, seam performance of nonwoven apparel fabrics made up of polyester: polyamide bicomponent fibers have been determined in order to reveal their usability for durable applications. For this purpose, nonwoven fabrics with 3 different unit masses were utilized. In order to mimic the seams of woven garments, nonwoven samples were sewn with lock stitch with 3 different stitch lengths. Results of the study showed that, unit mass was not a determinative factor for the seam performance of selected nonwoven samples. Also, it was inferred from the study that, sufficient seam strength and seam efficiency values could be obtained by using lower stitch lengths.

Computer-aided design method for random patterns of apparel fabrics

Random pattern is a pure digital art done by computer design, which can be widely used in clothing fabric pattern. This article introduces the method of using Photoshop general image processing software with external filter plug-in to design and produce random patterns for apparel fabrics.

A Theoretical Study of The Relation between Wrinkle Resistance and Crease Recovery Angle of Apparel Fabrics.(Dept.T)

In this work, a simple apparatus for measuring wrinkle resistance (non orientec crease resistance) of fabrics is constructed. By using a geometrical model of a cylindrical Specimen of fabric, a simple theoretical approach is attempted to relate the wrinkle resistance to the crease recovery angle of fabrics. A wide range of apparel woven fabrics were tested on both the wrinkle resistance apparatus established by the author and the Shirley crease recovery tester. An experimental verification for the theoretical work has been made which gives a good fit.

Çinko oksit Nanopartiküllerle İşlem Görmüş Keten, Polyester ve Naylon Kumaşların Ultraviyole Koruma Faktörünün Değerlendirilmesi

In this study, influence of nano-zinc oxide treatment on the UV protection properties of the widely used apparel fabrics including flax, polyester, and nylon, were investigated by means of ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) assessment. Nanoparticle content of the flax, polyester, and nylon fabrics were determined to be 1.2, 0.9, and 1.5 wt%, respectively. The UPFs of non-treated fabrics were in the range of 1.5 to 2.2 in the entire UV region. An improvement in UPF was obtained after introducing the nanoparticles into the fabrics. Approximately a sixfold- increase in UPF (11.02 ± 1.57) against UV-B was recorded for nylon. Flax and polyester fabrics had nearly the same UPF values around 2.8 against UV-B, while they were close to each other (2.71 ± 0.22 and 2.61 ± 0.28 for flax and polyester, respectively) against UV-A. SEM micrographs showed that nanoparticles agglomerated on flax and polyester in high extent, whereas they existed as dispersed particles at micro scale together with some slight agglomeration inside nylon. Keywords: Zinc oxide nanoparticle, Textile fabrics, Ultraviolet protection factor

Development of prediction model through linear multiple regression for the prediction of longitudinal stiffness of embroidered fabric

Embroidery through computer aided semi-automatic machines is one of the most widely used option for the surface ornamentation of apparel fabrics at present. Since the embroidery process includes addition of certain amount of embroidery-threads depending upon the design motif, it is quite obvious that basic physical and functional properties of fabric are subject to change. It is therefore important to develop an algorithm or empirical equation for proper prediction of the properties of the embroidered fabric, relevant to its required end-use in apparel industry. In this context, an effort has been made to determine a prediction equation through linear multiple regressions for the prediction of longitudinal stiffness of embroidered fabric in terms of flexural rigidity in warp direction of the base fabric, considering the input parameters as warp-way flexural rigidity of the base fabric, breaking load and linear density of the embroidery thread, stitch density, average stitch length and average stitch angle of the embroidery design. The final Prediction model is statistically verified taking new embroidery samples of different varieties. It is found that the model can predict with a very satisfactory level of accuracy. Also, the influences of the embroidery parameters in this context have been analyzed through the corresponding regression coefficients and the three dimensional (3D) surface curves. Stitch density has been emerged as the most influential parameter, followed by the stitch length and the stitch angle.

Encapsulation of Electrically Conductive Apparel Fabrics: Effects on Performance.

Electrically conductive fabrics are achieved by functionalizing with treatments such as graphene; however, these change conventional fabric properties and the treatments are typically not durable. Encapsulation may provide a solution for this, and the present work aims to address these challenges. Next-to-skin wool and cotton knit fabrics functionalized using graphene ink were encapsulated with three poly(dimethylsiloxane)-based products. Properties known to be critical in a next-to-skin application were investigated (fabric structure, moisture transfer, electrical conductivity, exposure to transient ambient conditions, wash, abrasion, and storage). Wool and cotton fabrics performed similarly. Electrical conductivity was conferred with the graphene treatment but decreased with encapsulation. Wetting and high humidity/low temperature resulted in an increase in electrical conductivity, while decreases in electrical conductivity were evident with wash, abrasion, and storage. Each encapsulant mitigated effects of exposures but these effects differed slightly. Moisture transfer changed with graphene and encapsulants. As key performance properties of the wool and cotton fabrics following treatment with graphene and an encapsulant differed from their initial state, use as a patch integrated as part of an upper body apparel item would be acceptable.

Prediction of Longitudinal Subjective Stiffness of Embroidered Fabrics by Fuzzy Logic

Computerized embroidery is a very popular option in today’s apparel industry, in the context of surface ornamentation of fabrics. With the addition of embroidery threads on the fabric surface, it is quite obvious that the basic physical, mechanical and functional properties of the apparel fabric are subject to alter. In this context, a prediction model based on fuzzy logic is prepared to predict the subjective longitudinal stiffness of embroidered fabric, using basic process parameters. The model is tested for a number of new embroidered samples and a very high prediction accuracy is obtained as investigated both graphically and statistically.

Influence of Yarn Count and Cover Factor on Mechanical, Comfort, Aesthetic and Hand Properties of Ladies’ Summer Apparel Fabrics

ABSTRACT Fine cotton fabrics are extremely popular for ladies’ summer apparel in the Sub-continent, the Middle East and those parts of the world which are known for hot and humid summer seasons. The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanical, comfort, and hand properties of fine cotton fabrics by systematically varying the fabric cover factor using two of the most commonly used yarn counts. After undergoing the same pre-treatment processes, fabric test results revealed improvement in fabric wrinkle recovery, smoothness, and resilience with increase in cover factor values from 21 to 26, while deterioration in fabric tear strength, air permeability, moisture management capability, drapability, and softness. It was also revealed that when fabric tear strength and resilience is a priority, production of a specific cover-factor fabric with coarser yarn count gives better results, whereas for better wrinkle recovery, drapability, smoothness, softness, moisture management capability, and air permeability, production of the same cover-factor fabric with finer yarns gives more desirable results.

Study of Fabric Movement and Influenced of Drape Measurement Based on Image Processing Using MATLAB

Generally, Drape meter for assessment of fabric drape is used in textile industry. In this paper, Image processing technique for measuring drape profile of apparel fabric has been studied and developed using MATLAB as well as modeled the fabric movement influenced of the fabric strength fort a certain mass. A modified method based on conventional drape meter was researched to determine drape parameter. Drape coefficient was selected to compare the conventional result (a standard device used in industry based on SNI ISO 08- 1511- 2004) and image processing result. In this research, a very good correlation has been found both conventional and image processing technique.

Fabrics and Garments as Sensors: A Research Update.

Properties critical to the structure of apparel and apparel fabrics (thermal and moisture transfer, elasticity, and flexural rigidity), those related to performance (durability to abrasion, cleaning, and storage), and environmental effects have not been consistently addressed in the research on fabric sensors designed to interact with the human body. These fabric properties need to be acceptable for functionalized fabrics to be effectively used in apparel. Measures of performance such as electrical conductivity, impedance, and/or capacitance have been quantified. That the apparel/human body system involves continuous transient conditions needs to be taken into account when considering performance. This review highlights gaps concerning fabric-related aspects for functionalized apparel and includes information on increasing the inclusion of such aspects. A multidisciplinary approach including experts in chemistry, electronics, textiles, and standard test methods, and the intended end use is key to widespread development and adoption.

JSON-based Apparel Fabric Query Micro-program Application

With the continuous development of information technology, the application market has also gradually innovated. Light applications are favored by people because of its small footprint, easy to use, and fast running. JSON (JavaScript Object Notation) is considered by developers to be an ideal data exchange language because of its simplicity and ease of use, and is widely used in Web development.Compared with XML, JSON has more advantages in Web data exchange processing. JSON is used to cache data, which is convenient for storing complex data, and is more conducive to client parsing and use.

Comfort Behavior of Unconventional Natural Fiber Based Union Fabrics

To fulfill the sustainability need of today’s comfort conscious consumers, an attempt has been made in this research study to explore the possibilities of producing high-quality apparel fabrics using unconventional fiber fabrics and their union fabrics. Unconventional natural fibers such as banana, hemp, linen and ramie and also their union fabrics with cotton were used. Union fabrics have different fiber content in warp and weft directions. A comparative study was made on the comfort behavior of these fabrics to evaluate their comfort performance. The properties of these fabrics were evaluated and compared under air permeability, moisture management, thermal properties, low-stress mechanical properties, etc. Unconventional fiber fabrics showed better results in many cases and thus were comparable with 100% cotton fabrics.

Studies on Thermal Behaviour of Cotton and Eri/Cotton Blended Fabrics Using Response Surface Methodology

Eri silk fibre, the lone domesticated non-mulberry variety of silk is reported to possess excellent thermal insulation property and the fabrics made of eri silk yarn is popularly used as warmth giving apparels by the people of north-eastern states of India in particular. On the other side, cotton fibre which is comparatively cheaper than eri silk has wide application in making apparel fabrics. This paper deals with the manufacturing of plain woven fabrics made of eri/cotton blended yarn as weft over cotton warp yarn and to conduct an in-depth study on the effect of blend composition and yarn parameters like count (Ne) and amount of twist on its thermal behaviour. The Box and Behnken model of Design of Experiment for three variables and three levels, a popular statistical tool, has been used to study the influence of chosen factors. The fitted regression equation has been found to be linear in nature confirming the presence of independent effect of yarn fineness, twist and eri content in the blended yarn over thermal insulation value of the fabric with strong degree of association. The effects of yarn count, twist and proportion of eri in blends have been well explained using response surface methodology.