Anti-wrinkle Agent Research Articles

Tailored 3D Agarose-Well Integrated with Human Skin Equivalents for Enhanced Skin Penetration Assessment.

We developed a tailored 3D Agarose-well system integrated with reconstructed human skin equivalents to enhance skin penetration assessments. This system addresses common limitations in traditional trans-well reconstructions, such as dermal layer contraction and limited lateral diffusion, by entangling collagen fibrils within the Agarose-well. We evaluated the penetration behavior of three peptides, with and without skin-penetrating peptide (SPP) sequences, alongside adenosine, a known anti-wrinkle agent. Despite a SPP having a molecular weight approximately four times greater than that of adenosine, its kinetic constant was similar, with values of about 39 and 34, respectively. Moreover, this living skin equivalent system not only allowed for the evaluation of adenosine penetration, but also demonstrated its biological effects, with adenosine significantly enhancing procollagen synthesis by approximately 23% compared to the control. Overall, this novel strategy holds the potential for tailoring 3D Agarose-wells and advancing high-performance gel development, making it a promising approach for applications in tissue engineering, medical science, regenerative medicine, and cosmetics.

An ionic liquid nanoparticles for dermal targeted delivery and effective anti-wrinkle treatment

BackgroundAging is a natural process that cannot be stopped but retarded. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a potent anti-wrinkle agent, but with severe irritancy, low stability, and poor water solubility, making it hard to apply in cosmetics. Ionic liquid (IL), as a solvent, displayed improved transdermal efficiency. The role of nano-encapsulation technology in addressing the disadvantages of efficacy application is significant. ObjectiveUsing a combination of ionic liquids and nano-encapsulation technology to obtain HPR-encapsulated ionic liquid nanoparticles (HPR IL-NPs) is an innovative formulation used as a serum, emulsion, and cream in cosmetics for effective anti-wrinkle. MethodsHPR IL-NPs were prepared using matrine coconut oil ionic liquid as a surfactant and permeation enhancer combined with high-pressure homogenization. ResultsThe average particle size in the obtained HPR IL-NPs was 92.8 nm. Applying the HPR IL-NPs increased the content of active substances in the skin by 3.6-fold compared to a traditional HPR-loaded cream. The chick chorioallantois membrane assay showed an RC50 > 100 %, and repeated skin-irritation tests resulted in a mean value of 0.00 points per animal per day. The HPR IL-NPs showed continuous release for 24 h in vitro in the continuous release test. At the same time, the HPR IL-NPs significantly reduced irritation induced by HPR alone. The number and area of facial wrinkles decreased by 25.09 % and 23.65 %, respectively, after one week of application of liquid cream on volunteers. ConclusionIL NPs can significantly improve transdermal absorption efficiency, reduce irritation, and demonstrate high anti-wrinkle efficiency. Supramolecular liquid cream is a promising product in cosmetics for skin care.

Ginseng fruit rare saponins (GFRS), a promising anti-wrinkle agent: Evidence of its antioxidant effect and its capacity to prevent matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) expression in vitro and in vivo

Rare saponins show numerous significant biological activities, however, there has been no research on using ginseng fruit rare saponins (GFRS) to minimize skin wrinkles. This paper studied the anti-wrinkle effect, related mechanism, material basis of efficacy, and structure-activity relationship of GFRS in vivo and in vitro. The findings demonstrate that GFRS has potent collagenase and elastase inhibition capabilities in addition to superior ultraviolet absorption properties. Secondly, GFRS can strengthen the endogenous antioxidant defense system, thus lessening the UVB-induced ultraviolet damage that L929 cells and zebrafish experience. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) studies have shown that GFRS could significantly inhibit the UVB-induced MMP1 and MMP9 proteins production. Finally, the main ginsenoside component in GFRS was identified by LC-MS, and 16 kinds of ginsenoside were analyzed, including rare ginsenoside such as Rg6, F4, and R/S-Rg3, which may be caused by the transformation of prototype saponins Re and Rd caused by citric acid heat treatment (CAHT). After doing a quantitative HPLC analysis on twelve of them, it was discovered that CAHT could enrich the content of rare saponins in GFS. By evaluating these ginsenoside’s anti-wrinkle properties. It is found that the main material basis for GFRS’s anti-wrinkle action may be ginsenoside Rg6 or F4. In summary, GFRS exhibits promising properties as an anti-wrinkle treatment because of its robust anti-oxidation, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase activity, favorable ultraviolet absorption effect, and capacity to regulate MMPs in vivo and in vitro models.

Super-Antioxidant Vitamin A Derivatives with Improved Stability and Efficacy Using Skin-Permeable Chitosan Nanocapsules.

Retinyl palmitate (RP) is a retinol ester with strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as an antiwrinkle agent. However, it has poor aqueous solubility and easily degrades into inactive forms for topical applications. Therefore, we developed chitosan-coated nanocapsules (ChiNCs) to encapsulate RP using a simple nanoprecipitation method for protection against physiological conditions and to enable deep skin penetration. The as-prepared RP-loaded nanocapsules (RP@ChiNCs) loaded with approximately 5 wt.% RP exhibited a hydrodynamic diameter of 86 nm and surface charge of 24 mV. They had adequate stability to maintain their physicochemical properties after lyophilization in a biological buffer. Notably, ChiNCs provided RP with remarkable protection against degradation for 4 weeks at 37 °C. Thus, RP@ChiNCs exhibited good antioxidant activity in situ for sufficiently long periods without considerable changes in their efficacy. Furthermore, ChiNCs enhanced the skin penetration of lipophilic RP based on the inherent nature of chitosan. RP@ChiNCs exhibited good in vitro antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects without causing any cytotoxicity in dermal fibroblasts. Accordingly, they promoted cell proliferation in a wound-scratch test and enhanced collagen synthesis. These results suggest that RP@ChiNCs are promising candidates for cosmetic and biomedical applications.

Anti-Wrinkling Effect of 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic Acid from the Roots of Nymphoides peltata through MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, and Nrf2 Signaling in UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells.

Nymphoides peltata has been widely used pharmacologically in traditional Chinese medicine to treat heat strangury and polyuria. The aim of this study was to isolate the bioactive components from N. peltata and evaluate their potential use as antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. Phytochemical investigation of the methanolic extract of N. peltata roots led to the isolation of 15 compounds (1-15), which were structurally determined as α-spinasterol (1), 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-oleanolic acid 28-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (3), protocatechuic acid (4), vanillic acid (5), p-coumaric acid (6), caffeic acid (7), ferulic acid (8), neochlorogenic acid (neo-CQA) (9), chlorogenic acid (CQA) (10), cryptochlorogenic acid (crypto-CQA) (11), isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-DCQA) (12), isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-DCQA) (13), isochlorogenic acid C (4,5-DCQA) (14), and 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) (15). Of these 15 compounds, compound 2 was a new oleanane saponin, the chemical structure of which was characterized by 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic data and high-resolution electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HRESIMS), as well as chemical reaction. Biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) significantly improved Nrf2 levels in an Nrf2-ARE reporter HaCaT cell screening assay. TCQA was found to potently inhibit the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and to possess strong anti-wrinkle activity by modulating the MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling pathway and thus inhibiting MMP-1 synthesis in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB. Our results suggest that TCQA isolated from N. peltata might be useful for developing effective antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents.

CK2 inhibitor CX4945 inhibits collagen degradation of HaCaT human keratinocyte cells via attenuation of MMP-1 secretion.

During skin aging, the extracellular matrix (ECM) concomitantly breaks down. Out of the various protein components that comprise ECM, collagen is the most abundant one. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) is a major collagenase that can degrade collagen. Therefore, the inhibition of MMP-1 may be critical for skin aging prevention. CX4945 is an inhibitor of casein kinase 2 and shows anticancer effects on various types of cancer cells. In this report, we investigated the MMP-1-inhibiting effect of CX4945 in HaCaT human keratinocyte cells. We performed zymography assays, Western blot analysis and immunoprecipitation assay to investigate the anti-MMP-1 effects of CX4945. CX4945 was found to inhibit collagen degradation via attenuation of the MMP-1 secretion out of HaCaT cells. This activity of CX4945 may be mediated by the induction of MMP-1 ubiquitylation via c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) signaling. In wound healing cell migration assay, CX4945 also showed suppressive effect on the migration of HaCaT cells. This finding was closely related to the attenuation of CREB transcription factor via the downregulation of ERK mitogen-activated protein kinase as observed in Western blot analysis. Our report suggests that the inhibitory effects of CX4945 on MMP-1 in epidermal cells may offer a basis for further studying its therapeutic potential as an anti-wrinkle agent.

FORMULATION OF SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE (SAP) INTO O/W NANOEMULSION

Objective: Wrinkles are a natural aging consequence that are most visible on sun-exposed skin, such as the face, neck, hands, and forearms. To meet the demands of the aesthetic market, anti-wrinkle active substances have been produced. Due to its capacity to shield skin from free radicals and promote collagen activity, water-soluble vitamin c has emerged as one of the essential anti-wrinkle options. Vitamin c as an antioxidant, can reduce damage caused by free radicals. Methods: The aim of this study was to develop a water-soluble vitamin c nanoemulsion, identify the optimum formulation, and do stability tests. The method is to mix the ingredients with the same phase first, then mix the two and stabilize with surfactant. A standard procedure was used to produce the nanoemulsion, with the variation ratio of tween 80 to PEG 400 and glycerin. Then, the research went on to the evaluation involved a physical stability test utilizing centrifugation at 3375 rpm, six cycles of freeze-thaw and a thermal stability test at three distinct temperatures for four weeks. Results: The results showed that the 10% glycerin increased SAP's solubility in the oil phase. A clear and transparent nanoemulsion with fine physical and thermal stability and globule sizes less than 200 nm was produced by the optimum formula, which contained Tween 80, PEG 40, glycerin, VCO, and phosphate buffer at pH 6 in a ratio of 17:9:10:3:61. Conclusion: The formulation of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate has the good physical, chemical characteristic, and stability properties that makes it acceptable to use it as the primary or supplemental therapy for an anti-wrinkle agent with good efficacy and low side effects.

Seed Oils in Treatment of Skin Aging and Photoaging

Background: Seed oils have been exploited for an array of purposes with their addition to dietary, cosmetics, or therapeutic products. The process of skin aging is a natural and complex phenomenon in living beings. Skin aging is classified into two independent processes, i.e., chronological aging and premature aging. Aging is observed as a loss of strength and elasticity of the skin, leading to wrinkles on the skin. It is due to a decrease in various components of the skin matrix, like elastin, collagen, and hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, aging is potentiated by excessive exposure to UV radiation (Photoaging) and can be prevented or reduced by using products that combat photoaging. Objective: Anti-aging and antiwrinkle agents are in demand for maintaining skin tone. Seed oils composed of polyunsaturated fatty acids are traditionally used in cosmetic products as moisturizers and emollients, while palmitic acid and oleic acid are known for their penetration-enhancing effect. With the changing trend for extraction of oils like cold pressed methods, seed oils enriched with polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids, and phytosterols are good antioxidants and antimicrobials and therefore have an ever-growing demand for their usage in the treatment of skin diseases. In this review, an attempt will be made to brief the phytoconstituents present in various seed oils and their utilization against skin ailments. Furthermore, a mechanistic approach towards the benefit of oils in skin barrier repair, antiaging, and photo-aging with the help of extensive well-designed clinical trials carried out in the recent past is elaborated. Methods: A literature search in the Scopus database, Pubmed, and Medline was carried out using the terminology “aging, photoaging, antioxidant, UV-protection, sunscreens, skin barrier repair, and fatty acids, formulations” in the study. Data were retrieved over the last twenty years. Results: The review summarises the mechanistic approach and beneficial application of seed oils for healthy and glowing skin. The oils obtained from olives, sesame, borage, grape seeds, and carrot seeds have multitargeted effects. However, the variation in pharmacological effect may vary based on geographically differing varieties, skin type, and person-to-person variation. The need to standardize the varieties for their phytoactive ingredients and the composition of formulation used for skin care can help utilize the seeds as a potential source of actives against skin diseases. Conclusion: The potential of seed oils can be increased with appropriate analytical tools, validation protocols, and systematic experimental studies at preclinical and clinical trials for their application to skin care products.

Biological Activity and Component Analyses of Chamaecyparis obtusa Leaf Extract: Evaluation of Antiwrinkle and Cell Protection Effects in UVA-Irradiated Cells.

Background and Objectives: Chamaecyparis obtusa (C. obtuse) extract has been used as a folk medicinal remedy in East Asian countries to alleviate inflammation and prevent allergies. Active oxygen causes skin aging and leads to skin cell and tissue damage. Extensive research has been conducted to control active oxygen generation to prevent skin aging. We evaluated the antioxidant activity and antiwrinkle effect of C. obtusa extract to determine its potential as a cosmetic material. Materials and Methods: The antioxidant activity of a 70% ethanol extract of C. obtusa (COE 70) and a water extract of C. obtusa (COW) was determined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazy (DPPH) scavenging, 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS+) scavenging, superoxide dismutase-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition, and ferric-reducing antioxidant power assays. The effective concentration of the extracts was determined using the methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium assay to evaluate their toxicity. The effects of COE 70 on the production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and procollagen, and expression of activated cytokines, interleukin 6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor α (TNF-α), in UVA-irradiated fibroblasts were determined using quantitative real-time PCR. Additionally, quercitrin, amentoflavone, hinokiflavone, and myricetin concentrations in COE 70 were determined using high-pressure high-performance liquid chromatography. Results: COE 70 had higher polyphenol and flavonoid concentrations than COW and exhibited an excellent antioxidant effect. COE 70 suppressed UVA-induced fibroblast death by 21.3% at 25 µg/mL. It also increased MMP-1, MMP-3, TNF-α, and IL-6 mRNA levels at 5-25 µg/mL compared with those in control UVA-irradiated fibroblasts. Moreover, mRNA levels of collagen type I and superoxide dismutase significantly increased, indicating the antiwrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of the extract. Among the COE 70 components, quercitrin concentration was the highest; hence, quercitrin could be an active ingredient. Conclusions: COE 70 could be used as a natural antioxidant and antiwrinkle agent.

Evaluating the effect of Luffa cylindrica stem sap on dermal fibroblasts; An invitro study

Luffa cylindrica stem sap (LuCS) has been traditionally used as a facial cosmetic supplement to enhance the skin condition of Asians. However, LuCS has yet to be described and there is no solid scientific evidence regarding the use of LuCS as an anti-wrinkle agent. In the present study, we have evaluated the functional effect of LuCS and its underlying mechanisms based on scientific evidence. Treatment with LuCS stimulated the growth and migration of human skin fibroblasts. LuCS treatment activated EGFR signaling via the enhanced expression of EGFR and down-regulation of PPARγ in human skin fibroblasts. Exposure to LuCS induced the synthesis of cellular type I procollagen and elastin in consort with the down-regulation of various proteinases including MMP-1, -2 and -9 in human skin fibroblasts. LuCS treatment also reversed the skin damage induced by UV-A irradiation in human skin fibroblasts. 3-bromo-3-methylisoxazol-5-amine was identified as the functional component using UPLC-MS-MS analysis and increased production of cellular type I procollagen. Collectively, these results suggest the efficacy of LuCS supplementation in improving the skin condition via anti-wrinkle effect.

Anti-Wrinkle Effect of Isatis indigotica Leaf Extract: Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammation, and Clinical Activity.

Isatis indigotica leaf is an oriental herbal medicine that has been known for various pharmacological effects. However, its anti-wrinkle activity has not been fully evaluated. Therefore, we evaluated the anti-wrinkle effect of I. indigotica leaf extract on human skin. The purified extract inhibited 85.4% of 2,2-diphenyl-1-1picrylhydrazyl and 72.2% of 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt radicals at a concentration of 1 mg/mL. Nitrite production was reduced by 30% after treatment with 50 μg/mL of extract. Three fractions from the extract downregulated the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3 and upregulated the expression of interleukin 4. Among the three fractions, fraction 2 exhibited the highest activity. The major component of the extract was identified as 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Molecular docking was conducted to predict the binding mechanism of 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic with matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3, and their binding energies were −5.20 and −4.89 kcal/mol, respectively. In a clinical trial, five roughness values of visiometer and visual score were significantly reduced in treated groups compared with the placebo group after 8 weeks. I. indigotica leaf extract inhibits wrinkle formation, and could be a potential anti-wrinkle agent. This is the first clinical trial demonstrating its anti-wrinkle activity.

DESIGN, CHARACTERIZATION AND EVALUATION OF CURCUMIN-LOADED MESOPOROUS SILICA NANOPARTICLES BASED TOPICAL DRUG DELIVERY SYSTEM FOR TREATMENT OF WRINKLES

The objective of research work was to development and evaluation of curcumin-loaded mesoporous silica nanoparticles (MSN), based topical dosage form for the treatment of facial wrinkles. Curcumin was selected as a hydrophobic model drug since it has been reported as potent anti-oxidizing and as an anti-wrinkle agent. Hence curcumin drug was selected as anti-wrinkle agent for the treatment of wrinkles. The MSN were prepared with tetraethyl ortho silicate and cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide (as surfactant). The prepared MSN were characterized by using particle size analysis, scanning electron microscope, Xrd, FTIR and porosimetry. The MSN was found to be biocompatible chemically & thermally stable nanoparticles. The curcumin extract was loaded into MSN and incorporated into cream. In-vitro release study of curcumin-loaded MSN system was compared with marketed formulation and was found the curcumin-loaded mesoporous silica nanoparticles (MSN) showed good antioxidant activity and batter % cumulative drug release. The % cumulative drug release of curcumin-loaded MSN was found to be 88% at pH 5.5 and 85% at pH 7.4 respectively. Revealed that after incorporation of curcumin into MSN, the drug release rate was found increased. The properties of curcumin-loaded MSN strongly advocate its good feature for delivery of anti-wrinkles drug. The prepared curcumin-loaded MSN seem to have potential carrier for use as a topical drug delivery.

Pheophorbide a Derivatives Exert Antiwrinkle Effects on UVB-Induced Skin Aging in Human Fibroblasts.

Pheophorbide a is a chlorophyll metabolic breakdown product. This study investigated the antiwrinkle effect of pheophorbide a (PA) and its derivatives, including pyropheophorbide a (PyroPA) and pyropheophorbide a methyl ester (PyroPA-ME), on ultraviolet (UV) B-stimulated CCD-986sk fibroblasts. PA, PyroPA, and PyroPA-ME effectively suppressed reactive oxygen species accumulation in UVB-exposed CCD-986sk fibroblasts. All three pheophorbides also reduced UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 secretion and mRNA expression of MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9. Treatment with pheophorbides resulted in increased procollagen synthesis, and this required enhancement of procollagen type I C-peptide content and mRNA expression of collagen type I alpha 1 (COL1A1) and COL1A2 in CCD-986sk cells. These antiwrinkle effects were more potent with PA and PyroPA than with PyroPA-ME. Furthermore, PA and PyroPA suppressed UVB-induced phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase and c-Jun N-terminal kinase but not p38. Moreover, all three pheophorbides inhibited NF-κB p65 phosphorylation. Therefore, these pheophorbides, especially PA and PyroPA, can be used as antiwrinkle agents, and PA- or PyroPA-rich natural resources can be used in functional cosmetics.

Secondary metabolites changes in germinated barley and its relationship to anti-wrinkle activity

The purpose of this research was to identify metabolite change during barley (Hordeum vulgare) germination and reveal active principles for the anti-wrinkle activity. Barley was germinated with deionized water (DW) and mineral-rich water (MRW) for the comparison of the effect of mineral contents on the metabolites changes during germination. The effects of germinated barley extracts (GBEs) on collagen production and collagenase inhibition were evaluated in vitro using human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). A pronounced anti-wrinkle activity was observed in the test group treated with the MRW-GBEs. In order to find out the active components related to the anti-wrinkle activity, an orthogonal projection to latent structure-discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) was performed, using the data from secondary metabolites profiling conducted by UPLC–PDA–ESI–MS. The anti-wrinkle activity of MRW-GBEs was revealed to be associated with the increase of oligomeric compounds of procyanidin and prodelphinidin, indicating that it can be used as an active ingredient for anti-wrinkle agents.

Near-infrared-emitting nanoparticles activate collagen synthesis via TGF\u03b2 signaling

Research efforts towards developing near-infrared (NIR) therapeutics to activate the proliferation of human keratinocytes and collagen synthesis in the skin microenvironment have been minimal, and the subject has not been fully explored. Herein, we describe the novel synthesis Ag2S nanoparticles (NPs) by using a sonochemical method and reveal the effects of NIR irradiation on the enhancement of the production of collagen through NIR-emitting Ag2S NPs. We also synthesized Li-doped Ag2S NPs that exhibited significantly increased emission intensity because of their enhanced absorption ability in the UV–NIR region. Both Ag2S and Li-doped Ag2S NPs activated the proliferation of HaCaT (human keratinocyte) and HDF (human dermal fibroblast) cells with no effect on cell morphology. While Ag2S NPs upregulated TIMP1 by only twofold in HaCaT cells and TGF-β1 by only fourfold in HDF cells, Li-doped Ag2S NPs upregulated TGF-β1 by tenfold, TIMP1 by 26-fold, and COL1A1 by 18-fold in HaCaT cells and upregulated TGF-β1 by fivefold and COL1A1 by fourfold in HDF cells. Furthermore, Ag2S NPs activated TGF-β1 signaling by increasing the phosphorylation of Smad2 and Smad3. The degree of activation was notably higher in cells treated with Li-doped Ag2S NPs, mainly caused by the higher PL intensity from Li-doped Ag2S NPs. Ag2S NPs NIR activates cell proliferation and collagen synthesis in skin keratinocytes and HDF cells, which can be applied to clinical light therapy and the development of anti-wrinkle agents for cosmetics.

Safflower Seed Oil and Its Active Compound Acacetin Inhibit UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging.

Ultraviolet (UV) is one of the major factors harmful to skin health. Irradiation with ultraviolet accelerates the decline of skin function, causing the skin to have deep wrinkles, dryness, decreased procollagen production, and degradation of collagen. Novel materials are needed to prevent the aging of the skin by blocking the effects of UV. Safflower seed oil (Charthamus tinctorius L., SSO) contains significantly high levels of unsaturated fatty acids and phytochemicals. SSO has been traditionally used in China, Japan, and Korea to improve skin and hair. Our objective in this study was to determine the effect of SSO and its active compound acacetin on UVB-induced skin photoaging in HaCaT cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). SSO inhibited UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) at both protein and mRNA levels in HaCaT cells and HDF. MMP-1 is known to play important roles in collagen degradation and wrinkle formation. Acacetin, a type of flavonoid, is present in SSO. Similar to SSO, acacetin also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 protein and mRNA levels in HaCaT cells and HDF. MMP-1 mRNA is primarily regulated by the mitogen-activated kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway. Acacetin regulated the phosphorylation of JNK1/2 and c-jun, but did not inhibit the phosphorylation of ERK1/2, p38 and AKT. Taken together, these results indicate that SSO and its active compound acacetin can prevent UVB-induced MMP-1 expression, which leads to skin photoaging, and may therefore have therapeutic potential as an anti-wrinkle agent to improve skin health.

In Vitro Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Permeation of Myrsine africana and Its Isolated Compound Myrsinoside B

Dermal aging is characterized by states of oxidative stress, chronic inflammation, and abnormal proteolytic degradation due to the action of hydrogen peroxide, superoxide, 5-lipoxygenase, and elastase, respectively. Noteworthy elastase inhibition has previously been reported, and so this study aimed to investigate the ability of Myrsine africana and myrsinoside B to reduce the activity of hydrogen peroxide, superoxide, and 5-lipoxygenase as supplementary mechanisms of action by which M. africana may reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The use of maltose microneedles were also investigated as a means to enhance the delivery of myrsinoside B into the skin as this is a crucial aspect to investigate when characterizing the efficacy of an active ingredient. Myrsine africana has traditionally been used for skin allergies, boils, and to purify blood (as an astringent) and was selected for this study based on it use in skincare. The crude extract exhibited IC50’s of 56.08 ± 2.88 and 132.74 ± 1.64 µg/ml against the hydrogen peroxide and superoxide radicals, while myrsinoside B exhibited IC50’s of 52.19 ± 4.16 and 192.14 ± 3.52 µg/ml, respectively. The IC50 of the extract and compound against 5-lipoxygenase was 29.65 ± 2.92 and 29.33 ± 3.08 µg/ml, respectively. No toxicity was observed in vitro at the highest concentration tested. Microneedle treatment increased the permeation of the active through the skin after 24 h to 12.46 ± 5.14 µg/cm2 compared to the passive group (1.30± 0.85 µg/cm2). The amount of active retained in the epidermis and dermis was 8.97 ± 0.90 and 6.98 ± 0.73 µg/cm2 respectively, greater than the retention observed in the passive group (3.24 ± 1.41 and 3.27 ± 1.47 µg/cm2, respectively). M. africana and myrsinoside B showed promising antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity thus supporting the potential of M. africana and myrsinoside B as anti-wrinkle agents. Further, treatment of dermatomed human skin with maltose microneedles facilitated topical delivery of myrsinoside B and provided an effective means for compound delivery to ensure maximum effect.

Ursonic acid exerts inhibitory effects on matrix metalloproteinases via ERK signaling pathway

Ursonic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid compound that can be extracted from Ziziphus jujuba Mill., a traditional medicine. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are involved in cancer metastasis and skin aging. Regulation of various MMPs is closely associated with mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), including ERK, p38, and JNK MAPKs. In this study, we investigated the possibility of ursonic acid as an anti-cancer/anti-skin aging agent targeting MMPs. Cytotoxic effects of ursonic acid were analyzed by cell counting kit-8 (CCK-8) assay. Invasive abilities of ursonic acid-treated A549 and H1299 non-small cell lung cancer (NSCLC) cells were tested with Boyden chamber assay. Effects of ursonic acid on MMPs were analyzed by zymography assays and quantitative real time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR). We also conducted flow cytometry and western blot analysis to elucidate the mechanisms of MMP regulation by ursonic acid. Our results revealed that ursonic acid inhibited transcriptional expression of gelatinases (MMP-2 and MMP-9) via inhibition of ERK and CREB signaling pathways in NSCLC cells. Moreover, ursonic acid reduced mRNA levels of collagenase (MMP-1) via suppression of ERK and c-Fos signaling pathways in HaCaT keratinocytes. These results suggest that ursonic acid could be a potential candidate for development of an effective novel anti-cancer and anti-wrinkle agent.

Antioxidant, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Phellinus vaninii

In this study, the antioxidant, anti-xanthine oxidase, anti-melanogenic and anti-wrinkle effects of methanol (ME) and hot water (HE) extracts from the fruiting bodies of Phellinus vaninii were investigated. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl free radical scavenging activity of 2.0 mg/mL HE (95.38%) was comparable to that of butylated hydroxytoluene (96.97%), the reference standard. The hydroxyl radical scavenging activities of ME (98.19%) and HE (97.55%) were higher than that of butylated hydroxytoluene (92.66%) at 2.0 mg/mL. Neither ME nor HE was cytotoxic to murine melanoma B16-F10 cells at 25–750 µg/mL. Although the xanthine oxidase (XO) inhibitory effects of ME and HE were significantly lower than that of allopurinol, the values were higher than 84 percent. The in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activities of ME and HE were comparable to kojic acid at 2.0 mg/mL. The cellular tyrosinase and melanin synthetic activities of ME and HE on B16-F10 melanoma cells at 500 µg/mL were higher than arbutin, indicating that the inhibitory effects of arbutin on the tyrosinase and melanin synthesis were higher than those of ME and HE. The collagenase inhibitory activity of HE was comparable to EGCG at 2.0 mg/mL, however, the elastase inhibitory activity of ME and HE was lower than EGCG at the concentration tested. The study results demonstrated that the fruiting bodies of Ph. vaninii possessed good antioxidant, anti-xanthine oxidase, cell-free anti-tyrosinase, cellular anti-tyrosinase, anti-collagenase, and moderate anti-elastase activities, which might be used for the development of novel anti-gout, skin-whitening, and skin anti-wrinkle agents.

Clinical evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a timosaponin A-III-based antiwrinkle agent against skin aging.

BackgroundTimosaponin A‐III (TA‐III) is known to exist in the medicinal herb of Anemarrhena asphodeloides as one of major chemical components.AimsThe photoprotective properties of TA‐III on UVB‐exposed HaCaT cells were evaluated on the antiwrinkle effects and skin safety in terms of clinical trial.MethodsThe level of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)‐1, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), and pro‐inflammatory cytokines were measured in HaCaT cells following UVB irradiation. To evaluate the clinical safety of an agent containing 0.25% of TA‐III for use on human skin. Female subjects (n = 21) between the ages of 43 and 55 who met the criteria for subject selection were selected. They were beginning to form or had already formed wrinkles.ResultsUVB irradiation increased MMP‐1 expression and pro‐inflammatory cytokines. These increases were attenuated by TA‐III pretreatment of UVB‐exposed HaCaT cells. We found that the agent containing 0.25% of TA‐III ameliorated skin wrinkling. A comparison between groups showed that wrinkle parameters were significantly reduced after 12 weeks of product use (P < 0.05). According to skin safety result, TA‐III showed no dermatological toxicity was found in participants.ConclusionsIn conclusion, TA‐III could provide protection against photoaging and daily application of TA‐III for 12 weeks significantly reduced signs of facial aging by limiting wrinkle formation.