Alongshore Gradient Research Articles

Effects of Stratification on Wind‐Driven Upwelling Over a Coastal Valley

AbstractIn‐situ observations indicate variations in stratified conditions over the coastal valley off the Sansha Bay in the northwestern Taiwan Strait across different years. However, dynamic processes and mechanisms governing the upwelling process over the valley, as influenced by stratification, are still unknown. By employing idealized numerical simulations, we demonstrate that compared to the unstratified case, the surface offshore flow intensifies, upwelling flux and net cross‐shore transport are enhanced, upwelling area expands, and the cross‐shore velocity structure is modified over the valley under stratified conditions. The primary factor controlling the vertical velocity within the valley is the relative vorticity change along a streamline (RVC). Further decomposition of the RVC reveals that the depth‐averaged alongshore velocity () and the depth‐averaged alongshore gradient of vorticity () primarily modulate the magnitude and spatial distribution of the vertical velocity. The negative zone of the expands in the valley, resulting in a larger upwelling area. The magnitude of the in the upper layer is slightly enhanced. The combined influence of these two factors leads to increased upwelling flux in the valley under stratified conditions. The net upslope motion over the valley is intensified under stratified conditions. The augmented advection of relative potential vorticity, originating from the increased amplitude of coastal trapped lee waves, primarily contributes to the enhanced net cross‐shore transport in the valley.

A Perturbative Solution for Nonlinear Stratified Upwelling over a Frictional Slope

Abstract A perturbative solution of simplified primitive equations for nonlinear weakly stratified upwelling over a frictional slope is found that resolves the vertical structure of velocity fields and can satisfy Ertel’s potential vorticity conservation in the stratified inviscid interior. The solution uses assumptions consistent with the model proposed by Lentz and Chapman, including a steady-state, constant cross-shore density gradient, no alongshore gradients, laterally inviscid, and consideration of cross-shore advection of alongshore momentum. The solution resolves the vertical structure of velocity fields (including subsurface maxima of compensational flow, not resolved by Lentz and Chapman) and can satisfy Ertel’s potential vorticity conservation in the stratified inviscid interior. The dynamics are similar to Lentz and Chapman; bottom stress balances alongshore wind stress in a homogeneous density ocean and is replaced by nonlinear cross-shore transport of alongshore momentum as the Burger number (S = αN/f, where α, N, and f are the bottom slope, buoyancy frequency, Coriolis frequency, respectively) increases. When the solution uses the empirical relation between cross-shore and vertical density gradients proposed by Lentz and Chapman, vorticity conservation is not satisfied and the nonlinear momentum transport estimated by the solution linearly increases with S, asymptotically matching Lentz and Chapman for S < 1. When the solution conserves interior potential vorticity, the momentum transport is proportional to S2 for S < 1 and is in better agreement with numerical simulations.

Diagnostic modeling of the shoreline variation along the Jiangsu Coast, China

Intertidal flats are of great socio-economic and ecological importance in defending the coastal cities from flooding, providing resources for land reclamations and habits for wildlife. On the intertidal flats, milder profiles are usually featured with finer sediment. However, we find the opposite relationship between the alongshore variation in intertidal slope and sediment grain size on the intertidal flat along the Jiangsu Coast. With a conceptual figure of the hydrodynamics and shoreline evolution on this coast, we hypothesize that the unexpected pattern is caused by the alongshore gradient in hydrodynamic forcing. In order to test our hypothesis, we carry out a series of numerical model simulations in a highly schematized manner to investigate the real mechanism behind this unexpected pattern. Through the analysis, we find that only the southwards coarsening pattern is inconsistent with the shoreline evolution pattern. This inconsistency is not induced by alongshore hydrodynamic gradient, and can only be explained by different sediment provenances. We also find that the alongshore shoreline evolution pattern is not only determined by the alongshore gradient in hydrodynamic forcing, but also influenced by the alongshore variation in bed composition. In the erosion/sedimentation transition zone, the bed composition factor plays the major role.

Hazard assessment and hydrodynamic, morphodynamic, and hydrological response to Hurricane Gamma and Hurricane Delta on the northern Yucatán Peninsula

Abstract. Barrier islands in tropical regions are prone to coastal flooding and erosion during hurricane events. The Yucatán coast, characterized by karstic geology and the presence of barrier islands, was impacted by Hurricane Gamma and Hurricane Delta in October 2020. Inner shelf, coastal, and inland observations were acquired simultaneously near a coastal community (Sisal, Yucatán) located within 150 km of the hurricanes' tracks. In the study area, Gamma moved slowly and induced heavy rain, mixing in the shelf sea, and strong winds (>20 m s−1). Similar wind and wave conditions were observed during the passage of Hurricane Delta; however, a higher storm surge was measured due to wind setup and the drop (<1000 mbar) in atmospheric pressure. Beach morphology changes, based on GPS measurements conducted before and after the passage of the storms, show alongshore gradients ascribed to the presence of coastal structures and macrophyte wracks on the beach face. Urban flooding occurred mainly on the back barrier associated with heavy inland rain and the coastal aquifer's confinement, preventing rapid infiltration. Two different modeling systems, aimed at providing coastal flooding early warning and coastal hazard assessment, presented difficulties in forecasting the coastal hydrodynamic response during these seaward-traveling events, regardless of the grid resolution, which might be ascribed to a lack of terrestrial processes and uncertainties in the bathymetry and boundary conditions. Compound flooding plays an important role in this region and must be incorporated in future modeling efforts.

Post‐disturbance evolution of a prograded foredune barrier during a sustained dynamic restoration project—the role of wind speed, wind direction and vegetation

AbstractDisturbed (de‐vegetated) coastal dunes can follow divergent evolutionary pathways, evolving to one of a range of possible morphologies in response to spatial and temporal variations in windiness (i.e. the speed and direction of competent winds) or vegetation cover (i.e. the magnitude and rate of vegetation loss). Here we examine the influence of these factors on the evolution of two adjacent barriers during a sustained dune restoration programme, at Doughboy Bay, Aotearoa/New Zealand. We document a shift from a stable prograded foredune barrier to a mobile dune state over a 15‐year period. The spatial and temporal patterns of sedimentation across the barriers reflect alongshore variations in incident wind direction. Changes in vegetation resulted from an alongshore gradient in wind speed, with little decline in vegetation cover recorded towards the more sheltered sections of the dunes and almost total loss of vegetation towards the centre of the bay. Subsequent changes in vegetation cover continued to reflect these gradients in wind speed and direction, with an increase in vegetation cover associated with relatively sheltered sections of coast and a continued decline or no change in vegetation cover across the more exposed parts of the barriers. Finally, localized sediment accumulation across both barriers is strongly associated with the presence of dune‐building species. This case demonstrates the influence of wind speed, wind direction and vegetation on post‐disturbance foredune morphologies and barrier development. We propose a three‐stage conceptual model of barrier evolution consistent with existing biogeomorphic disturbance models: (1) an initial ‘reaction’ phase, characterized by high vegetation cover and relatively little topographic change; (2) an ‘activation’ phase, characterized by low vegetation cover and rapid rates of topographic change; and (3) a ‘stabilization’ phase, characterized by increasing vegetation cover and topographic stability. Dune restoration interventions of this type would clearly benefit from an analysis of incident wind conditions prior to commencement and careful consideration of where and how to reintroduce native sand‐binding species.

Wave shadow zones as a primary control of storm erosion and recovery on embayed beaches

Waves interact with headlands on embayed beaches through refraction, diffraction and attenuation and can create alongshore gradients in wave energy and beach response. This energy gradient shifts alongshore with changes in wave direction, especially during storms when waves may come from a direction different to average conditions. To better predict embayed beach storm responses, improved identification of exposed and headland shadowed zones is needed. Here we present a generalised geometric approach to quantify the alongshore distance shadowed by headlands, called the shadow edge (Ysh), differentiating exposed and headland shadowed zones. Our approach uses headland geometry collected from readily available imagery, combined with measured or modelled storm wave direction, reducing the reliance on complex nearshore wave models derived from relatively scarce bathymetric data. We use monthly topographic beach surveys (2015–2019) at nine embayed beaches in SE Australia to investigate the impacts of headland and embayment geometry relative to storm wave direction (i.e., exposure). Further, beach responses were compared to erosion and recovery rates across different embayment geometries with varying levels of geological control on beach morphodynamics. We found that storm frequency, headland shadowing and embayment geometry control the alongshore magnitude of beach erosion and recovery rates. Mean subaerial beach volume losses to six high-energy storms were on average 3.5 times higher in exposed zones (42.7 ± 40.7 m3/m) than headland shadowed zones (12.1 ± 23.6 m3/m). Our geometric approach provides a simple alternative to predict headland influence on beach morphodynamics. The approach can be applied at a regional scale and could be integrated into early warning systems to predict coastal erosion.

Environmental Gradients and Spatial Patterns of Calanoid Copepods in the Southeast Pacific

Understanding the mechanisms maintaining the biodiversity of plankton communities in marine ecosystems subject to a strongly variable ocean has become a critical issue for modern oceanography. Here, we used data on distribution of calanoid copepods in the upper layer of the ocean (0–500 m), a widely distributed taxonomic group in the pelagic realm, to assess the effects of changing oceanographic conditions on their diversity patterns and family and species richness. Copepods abundance and occurrence were evaluated from 2002 to 2015 covering the region extended between the coastal upwelling zone (CUP-Z) and the offshore region of Chile at subtropical and temperate areas. We used spatial analyses of community structure descriptors, such as abundance and diversity (family and species richness), multivariate analysis and General Additive Models (GAMS) in order to study the effect of surface temperature and its gradients, mixed layer depth, salinity and Chlorophyll-a on copepod diversity. Seventeen families were identified comprising 151 species distributed in 3 predefined zones in the onshore-offshore gradient covering the coastal upwelling, the coastal transition and the oligotrophic zones, whereas over the alongshore gradient, same families were majorly linked to the northern and southern portions of the sampled area (20–40°S). Families and species were significantly structured over the zonal gradient, revealing the dominant habitat for each of the families. Spatial patterns revealed the presence of transitional zones comprised by mixed taxa. Over the alongshore gradient this transition zone was linked to the subtropical convergence (30°S). The spatial variation of sea surface temperature (SST) revealed strong environmental zonation of temperature gradients across onshore-offshore and alongshore dimensions. Mean SST combined with mean mixed layer depth explained about 40% and about 29% of variation in family and species richness, respectively over the onshore-offshore axis. We thus conclude that the environmental zonation imposed by SST and its spatial gradients, considered as ecological barriers, is the key driver for maintaining diversity of copepods in the southeast Pacific.

A three-dimensional laboratory investigation of beach morphology change during a storm event

This study provides laboratory observations of the nearshore hydrodynamics and detailed topographic surveys associated with the morphological response of a beach-dune system to oblique waves during a storm event. A physical model consisting of a 20 m long sandy steep beach constructed in a wave basin, and a wave paddle oriented obliquely to the beach shoreline is used to generate irregular waves at the offshore boundary. In the experiment, the wave height is varied over time in five segments to simulate the change in the energy from a passing storm and is varied alongshore to initiate an alongshore gradient in waves and wave-driven currents. To simulate a constant storm surge, a high mean water level relative to the dune is used, enabling waves to reach the dune toe. The results indicate the formation and evolution of a beach scarp. The retreat of the scarp initially corresponds to time-varying wave energy, but becomes controlled by the changing nearshore beach slope over time. The alongshore current magnitude is governed by the spatio-temporal variability in wave energy and is the main driver of sediment flux. The sand that is eroded from the dune initially deposits at the dune toe when nearshore circulation is weak. However, as the wave energy increases sediment is transported along the beach and is deposited, increasing the surf zone width. The experimental results indicate that small waves at high water levels relative to the dune can drive the formation of a beach scarp. In addition, different levels of incident wave energy drive different rates of sediment transport and morphological evolution with high alongshore variability throughout a storm event.

An Analytical Solution for Nearshore Circulation Driven by Focused/Defocused Waves

An offshore shoal or bar refracts ocean surface waves and causes wave focusing/defocusing on the adjacent beach. Wave focal patterns characterized by alongshore variations in wave height, wave angle, and breaking location induce alongshore non-uniformities of wave setup and nearshore circulation, e.g., rip currents and alongshore currents, in the surfzone. A simplified analytic model for nearshore circulation generated by focused/defocused waves on a planar beach is developed and theoretical solutions are obtained using transport stream function and perturbations in alongshore distributions of wave height and wave angle at the breaker line. The analytic model suggests that alongshore currents are strongly affected by a pair of counter-rotating vortices generated shoreward of the wave focal zone. The vortices are persistent, and their strengths depend on the amplitudes of alongshore variations in wave height and wave angle. The alongshore gradient in wave height tends to intensify the vortices while the convergence of wave angle tends to weaken the vortices. Divergent flows associated with the vortices in the surfzone are intense, strengthening alongshore currents in the downstream of the wave focal zone and weakening alongshore currents or causing flows reversal in the upstream. Alongshore currents are modulated by rip currents associated with the wave focusing/defocusing patterns.

Spatio-temporal geomorphological and ecological evolution of a transgressive dunefield system, Northern California, USA

Abstract A series of historic aerial photographs in addition to the U.S. Coast Survey 1870 map were used to document evolution of the coastal barrier and transgressive dunefield system at the Lanphere-Ma-le'l Dunes on Humboldt Bay, California, USA, between 1870 and 2016. Geomorphic units (shorelines, foredunes, nebkha, blowouts, parabolic dunes, deflation basins, and dunefields) as well as vegetation alliance were mapped in ArcGIS at approximately decadal intervals and compared among three subareas delineated based on large scale geomorphic differences that coincided with contrasting biological invasion and management histories. Sand inundation events in the 1930s and 1940s led to deterioration of the foredune and burial of deflation basins in the south, with the transgressive dunefield directly abutting the backshore in places. The transgressive dunefield in the north differentiated into parabolic dunes that decoupled from the foredune complex earlier than in the southern subareas, which have retained undifferentiated transgressive dunefields. Shoreline progradation increased dramatically following the historic 1964 flood, but exhibited a north-south gradient consistent with the Mad River to the north acting as the primary source of sediment, and effective north-south littoral drift. Biological invasions of Lupinus arboreus in the north and Ammophila arenaria in the south contributed to stabilization post-1965, but concomitant increases of native vegetation in other areas suggest these biotic processes were subordinate to other forcing factors. A notable switch from an erosional to a depositional system occurred coincident with the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) shift from a cool to a warm phase in the late 1970s, suggesting climate forcing as a major driver of dune evolution. Changes in the rate of vegetation stabilization per time interval post 1948 are correlated with change in mean monthly PDO index for the same intervals. Alongshore gradients of sediment availability and tectonic subsidence are likely superimposed on climatic controls. Stability of the dune system reached its maximum extent in 2000, despite erosional effects of the 1998–2000 La Nina event and invasive plant removal projects in the 1990s. Increased storminess (2015–2016 El Nino) resulted in decreased shoreline stability in the most recent interval, coincident with sharply declining rates of progradation and a reduction in mean monthly PDO index. This study provides insights into how transgressive dune phases can be formed, sustained and decoupled, as well as how they change their geomorphology over time. The absence of relict foredunes in the study area and elsewhere on the North Spit barrier suggests that the foredune-blowout-parabolic dune complex may build to quite large proportions for some time, and then be destroyed or destabilized to such a degree that the sediments comprising the complex are released to form a new dunefield phase. Ruptures along the Cascadia subduction zone are a likely mechanism for transgressive dunefield initiation, both in the past, and likely in the future.

Complex small pelagic fish population patterns arising from individual behavioral responses to their environment

Small pelagic fish (SPF) species are heavily exploited in eastern boundary upwelling systems (EBUS) as their transformation products are increasingly used in the world’s food chain. Management relies on regular monitoring, but there is a lack of robust theories for the emergence of the populations’ traits and their evolution in highly variable environments. This work aims to address existing knowledge gaps by combining physical and biogeochemical modelling with an individual life-cycle based model applied to round sardinella (Sardinella aurita) off northwest Africa, a key species for regional food security. Our approach focused on the processes responsible for seasonal migrations, spatio-temporal size-structure, and interannual biomass fluctuations. Emergence of preferred habitat resulted from interactions between natal homing behavior and environmental variability that impacts early life stages. Exploration of the environment by the fishes was determined by swimming capabilities, mesoscale to regional habitat structure, and horizontal currents. Fish spatio-temporal abundance variability emerged from a complex combination of distinct life-history traits. An alongshore gradient in fish size distributions is reported and validated by in situ measurements. New insights into population structure are provided, within an area where the species is abundant year-round (Mauritania) and with latitudinal migrations of variable (300–1200 km) amplitude. Interannual biomass fluctuations were linked to modulations of fish recruitment over the Sahara Bank driven by variability in alongshore current intensity. The identified processes constitute an analytical framework that can be implemented in other EBUS and used to explore impacts of regional climate change on SPF.

Mechanisms of the intensification of the upwelling-favorable winds during El Niño 1997–1998 in the Peruvian upwelling system

The physical processes driving the wind intensification in a coastal band of ~ 100 km off Peru during the intense 1997–1998 El Nino (EN) event were studied using a regional atmospheric model. A simulation performed for the period 1994–2000 reproduced the coastal wind response to local sea surface temperature (SST) forcing and large scale atmospheric conditions. The model, evaluated with satellite data, represented well the intensity, seasonal and interannual variability of alongshore (i.e. NW–SE) winds. An alongshore momentum budget showed that the pressure gradient was the dominant force driving the surface wind acceleration. The pressure gradient tended to accelerate the coastal wind, while turbulent vertical mixing decelerated it. A quasi-linear relation between surface wind and pressure gradient anomalies was found. Alongshore pressure gradient anomalies were caused by a greater increase in near-surface air temperature off the northern coast than off the southern coast, associated with the inhomogeneous SST warming. Vertical profiles of wind, mixing coefficient, and momentum trends showed that the surface wind intensification was not caused by the increase of turbulence in the planetary boundary layer. Moreover, the temperature inversion in the vertical mitigated the development of pressure gradient due to air convection during part of the event. Sensitivity experiments allowed to isolate the respective impacts of the local SST forcing and large scale condition on the coastal wind intensification. It was primarily driven by the local SST forcing whereas large scale variability associated with the South Pacific Anticyclone modulated its effects. Examination of other EN events using reanalysis data confirmed that intensifications of alongshore wind off Peru were associated with SST alongshore gradient anomalies, as during the 1997–1998 event.

Shore and bar cross‐shore migration, rotation, and breathing processes at an embayed beach

AbstractA principal component analysis (PCA) is used to decompose data on the coupled morphodynamics of the shoreline and nearshore sandbar of a typical single‐barred embayed beach (Tairua Beach, New Zealand). Dynamic patterns are classified into simultaneous modes, where the bar and shoreline move at the same time, and nonsimultaneous modes, where the shore moves independently from the bar, and vice versa. Two simultaneous modes accounting for 65% of the variance of the shoreline and barline dominate the system. One mode describes inverse shoreline and sandbar cross‐shore migrations (alongshore averaged), occurring with simultaneous rotations in the same direction. The other mode accounts for migration in the same direction accompanied by variations of the barline curvature (similar to “breathing modes” previously described in embayed beach shoreline modeling studies). Two nonsimultaneous modes of lesser importance account separately for independent shoreline and barline rotations (10 to 15% of the variance explained). A PCA applied to the shore and sandbar behaviors modeled by four standard equilibrium models simulating shore and sandbar cross‐shore migrations and rotations show that these are interrelated because of a correlation between wave energy and direction. Shore and bar rotations are coupled partially because the shape of the bay induces a correlation of their respective drivers, the wave angle of incidence and the alongshore gradient of wave energy. However, this correlation depends on the wave energy. This, in combination with different shore and sandbar response times (quantified using the models), also explains the independent rotations reflected by the nonsimultaneous modes.

Extreme coastal erosion enhanced by anomalous extratropical storm wave direction

Extratropical cyclones (ETCs) are the primary driver of large-scale episodic beach erosion along coastlines in temperate regions. However, key drivers of the magnitude and regional variability in rapid morphological changes caused by ETCs at the coast remain poorly understood. Here we analyze an unprecedented dataset of high-resolution regional-scale morphological response to an ETC that impacted southeast Australia, and evaluate the new observations within the context of an existing long-term coastal monitoring program. This ETC was characterized by moderate intensity (for this regional setting) deepwater wave heights, but an anomalous wave direction approximately 45 degrees more counter-clockwise than average. The magnitude of measured beach volume change was the largest in four decades at the long-term monitoring site and, at the regional scale, commensurate with that observed due to extreme North Atlantic hurricanes. Spatial variability in morphological response across the study region was predominantly controlled by alongshore gradients in storm wave energy flux and local coastline alignment relative to storm wave direction. We attribute the severity of coastal erosion observed due to this ETC primarily to its anomalous wave direction, and call for greater research on the impacts of changing storm wave directionality in addition to projected future changes in wave heights.

Formation mechanisms for self-organized kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves

The feedbacks between morphology and waves through sediment transport are investigated as a source of kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves. In particular, the observed sand waves along Srd. Holmslands Tange, Denmark, are examined. We use a linear stability model based on the one-line approximation, linking the bathymetry to the perturbed shoreline. Previous models that consider the link by shifting the equilibrium profile and neglecting the curvature of the depth contours predict a positive feedback only if the offshore wave incidence angle (?c) is above a threshold, ?c?42°. Considering curvilinear depth contours and using a linearly decaying perturbation in bed level, we find that ?c can vary over the range 0–90° depending on the background bathymetric profile and the depth of closure, Dc. Associated to the perturbed wave refraction, there are two sources of instability: the alongshore gradients in wave angle, wave angle mechanism, and the alongshore gradients in wave energy induced by wave crest stretching, wave energy mechanism. The latter are usually destabilizing, but the former are destabilizing only for large enough Dc, steep foreshores, and gently sloping shorefaces. The critical angle comes out from the competition between both mechanisms, but when both are destabilizing, ?c=0. In contrast with earlier studies, the model predicts instability for the Holmslands Tange coast so that the observed sand waves could have emerged from such instability. The key point is considering a larger Dc that is reasonably supported by both observations and wave climate, which brings the wave angle mechanism near the destabilizing threshold.

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

AbstractTo investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip‐current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore‐directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave‐breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore‐directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking‐wave‐driven‐setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking‐wave‐driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore‐directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

Observations and 3D hydrodynamics-based modeling of decadal-scale shoreline change along the Outer Banks, North Carolina

Long-term decadal-scale shoreline change is an important parameter for quantifying the stability of coastal systems. The decadal-scale coastal change is controlled by processes that occur on short time scales (such as storms) and long-term processes (such as prevailing waves). The ability to predict decadal-scale shoreline change is not well established and the fundamental physical processes controlling this change are not well understood. Here we investigate the processes that create large-scale long-term shoreline change along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, an uninterrupted 60km stretch of coastline, using both observations and a numerical modeling approach. Shoreline positions for a 24-yr period were derived from aerial photographs of the Outer Banks. Analysis of the shoreline position data showed that, although variable, the shoreline eroded an average of 1.5m/yr throughout this period. The modeling approach uses a three-dimensional hydrodynamics-based numerical model coupled to a spectral wave model and simulates the full 24-yr time period on a spatial grid running on a short (second scale) time-step to compute the sediment transport patterns. The observations and the model results show similar magnitudes (O(105m3/yr)) and patterns of alongshore sediment fluxes. Both the observed and the modeled alongshore sediment transport rates have more rapid changes at the north of our section due to continuously curving coastline, and possible effects of alongshore variations in shelf bathymetry. The southern section with a relatively uniform orientation, on the other hand, has less rapid transport rate changes. Alongshore gradients of the modeled sediment fluxes are translated into shoreline change rates that have agreement in some locations but vary in others. Differences between observations and model results are potentially influenced by geologic framework processes not included in the model. Both the observations and the model results show higher rates of erosion (∼−1m/yr) averaged over the northern half of the section as compared to the southern half where the observed and modeled averaged net shoreline changes are smaller (<0.1m/yr). The model indicates accretion in some shallow embayments, whereas observations indicate erosion in these locations. Further analysis identifies that the magnitude of net alongshore sediment transport is strongly dominated by events associated with high wave energy. However, both big- and small- wave events cause shoreline change of the same order of magnitude because it is the gradients in transport, not the magnitude, that are controlling shoreline change. Results also indicate that alongshore momentum is not a simple balance between wave breaking and bottom stress, but also includes processes of horizontal vortex force, horizontal advection and pressure gradient that contribute to long-term alongshore sediment transport. As a comparison to a more simple approach, an empirical formulation for alongshore sediment transport is used. The empirical estimates capture the effect of the breaking term in the hydrodynamics-based model, however, other processes that are accounted for in the hydrodynamics-based model improve the agreement with the observed alongshore sediment transport.

Modeling Long-Period Swell in Southern California: Practical Boundary Conditions from Buoy Observations and Global Wave Model Predictions

AbstractAccurate, unbiased, high-resolution (in space and time) nearshore wave predictions are needed to drive models of beach erosion; coastal flooding; and alongshore transport of sediment, biota, and pollutants. On sheltered shorelines, wave predictions are sensitive to the directions of onshore propagating waves, and nearshore model prediction error is often dominated by directional uncertainty offshore. Here, regional wave model skill in highly sheltered Southern California is compared for different offshore boundary conditions created from offshore buoy observations and global wave model hindcasts [NOAA WaveWatch III (WW3)]. Spectral ray-tracing methods are used to transform incident offshore swell (0.04–0.09 Hz) energy at high directional resolution (1°). Model skill is assessed for predictions (wave height, direction, directional spread, and alongshore radiation stress) at 16 nearshore buoy sites between 2000 and 2009. Buoy-derived boundary conditions using various estimators (maximum entropy, maximum smoothness) have similar skill and all outperform WW3-derived boundary conditions. A new method for estimating offshore boundary conditions, CMB-ADJ, combines buoy observations with WW3 predictions. Although CMB-ADJ skill is comparable to buoy-only methods, it may be more robust in varying regions and wave climatologies, and will benefit from future improvements in global wave model (GWM) predictions. A case study at Oceanside Harbor shows strong sensitivity of alongshore sediment transport estimates to the boundary condition method. However, patterns in alongshore gradients of transport (e.g., the location of model accretion and erosion zones) are similar across methods. Weak, tidally modulated coastal reflection is evident in both shallow and deep buoy observations, and significantly increases the observed directional spread.

Impact of groyne fields on the littoral drift: A hybrid morphological modelling study

This paper concerns numerical modelling of the impact on the littoral drift and the shoreline from groynes forming a field of equidistant and identical groynes. The most important effect of a groyne on the shoreline morphology is that the littoral drift is blocked completely or partially. A local reduction in the littoral drift around the groyne introduces alongshore gradients in the alongshore sediment transport and sedimentation and erosion around the groyne which will cause re-orientation of the bed contours towards the prevailing wave direction until an equilibrium is reached. A discussion of this mechanism is presented including effects of scales, e.g. the effect of the relative length of the groynes (compared to the width of the surf zone).The model results indicate a strong dependency of the reduction in littoral drift on the initial geometric bypass ratio (Qgeo*), which is defined from the groyne length and the littoral transport on the undisturbed coastline; Qgeo* is the transport occurring outside the tip of the groynes divided by the total transport. It is found that the sensitivity of the littoral drift to variations in groyne spacing and the angle, of the approaching waves, is inversely proportional to Qgeo*.

New insights into embayed beach rotation: The importance of wave exposure and cross‐shore processes

AbstractAlthough embayed beach rotation has been viewed and modeled as an alongshore sediment transport process acting on a uniform beach profile, recent research suggests a more complex response whereby alongshore variability in cross‐shore sediment fluxes may be more significant. This study utilizes 5 years of fully three‐dimensional beach surveys at Narrabeen‐Collaroy Beach (SE Australia) to quantify the control of alongshore nonuniform wave exposure and cross‐shore processes on embayed beach rotation. Empirical orthogonal function analysis of the alongshore variability in subaerial beach volume/width and berm slope confirms that the dominant mode of subaerial beach variability is an onshore/offshore sediment exchange that is strongly controlled (R &gt; 0.8) by the alongshore gradient in breaker wave height and coincides with a uniform flattening/steepening of the berm slope. A secondary rotation‐like signal is observed in both the subaerial beach volume/width data and, significantly, the berm slope. This inverse flattening/steepening of the berm slope between beach extremities is most likely a proxy for differing cross‐shore processes within the surf zone between the exposed and sheltered ends of the embayment, particularly with regards to dissipation of storm wave energy by offshore sandbars and beach recovery following storms. Analysis of the corresponding wave data reveals two distinct time scales of wave forcing characteristic of short‐term erosion and longer‐term recovery processes. A new conceptual model is presented of three differing modes of embayed beach rotation, with the newly identified beach rotation mode controlled by offshore sandbars considered of particular importance at embayments where headland sheltering of oblique waves is pronounced.