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  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 10
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.796628
Research on spun yarn qualities in a modified ring-spinning system using airflow-twisting device
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Xinjin Liu + 1 more

In this paper, a kind of airflow-twisting devices which can produce the twist by the high vortex airflow is employed for improving the twist propagation process of ring-spinning system. Firstly, three different kinds of yarns Ne20, Ne40, and Ne60 are spun in this modified ring-spinning system with five different airflow pressures and two different swirling directions, including anticlockwise and clockwise, and the qualities of spun yarns, including hairiness, strength, evenness, and number of snarling characterizing the yarn residual torque, are measured. Secondly, the images of spinning triangles are captured by using a high speed camera system OLYMPUS i-speed3, and the mechanism of the effects of vortex airflow on yarn qualities is discussed by analyzing the fiber tension distributions in the spinning triangle. It is shown that for the ‘Z’ twist spun yarn, the spinning triangle decreases with the increasing of clockwise airflow pressures, whereas the triangle becomes more and more symmetrical with the increasing of anticlockwise airflow pressures. Meanwhile, the comprehensive qualities of spun yarn are improved with the increasing of both directions of airflow pressures to a certain extent. However, the hairiness and strength of spun yarn will be mainly improved with clockwise airflow, whereas yarn residual torque mainly reduced with anticlockwise airflow.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 6
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.779057
The influence of cyclic deformation on the strength and elongation at break of carded and combed wool yarns
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Rachid Halfaoui + 1 more

There are various factors that influence yarn strength. Yarn breaking is due to fiber breakages and fiber’s slippages. In reality, a part of the fibers slip while the other part breaks. In this study, we have shown that fatigue yarn, resulting in a fundamental way impact on the number of breaks on the weaving machine, and sometimes on the physical properties of fabrics. Given the importance of the issue and the very limited directed research number in this direction, a tests series were carried out with the aim to highlight the changes to the physical characteristics of the yarn resulting from mechanical treatment comparable to that which they are subjected on the weaving machine. In the first part of our investigation, the residual deformation, tensile strength, and elongation at break of combed and carded threads were measured. In the second part, the influence of the extensions number, their amplitudes, and frequencies were analyzed. In order to examine the influence of these parameters, carded and combed yarns, with different characteristics were prepared. Therefore, based on the separate treatment results of three test series, it appears that: the warp yarns subjected to repeated extensions undergo the phenomenon of fatigue. Yarns fatigue reduces their elasticity and resistance and it is the cause for break yarn during weaving. The fatigue of wool yarns is very low compared to other textile materials.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 3
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.786252
Evaluation of the relative significance of fibre diameter and fibre curvature when processing New Zealand Romcross type wool
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • R.m.w Sumner + 2 more

Research has shown a technical description of a blend for most woollen carpet applications can be met with objective measurements, namely mean fibre diameter, fibre length after carding, wool bulk, proportion of medullation, base colour and vegetable matter content. The compressional property of wool as reflected in bulk is strongly related to mean fibre diameter and mean fibre curvature. Both these measurements can now be measured simultaneously with recently developed electronic instrumentation. While the processing implications of changes in mean fibre diameter are well understood, the processing implications of changes in objectively measured mean fibre curvature have not been investigated in detail. A total of 360 New Zealand Romcross type fleeces shorn from yearling sheep, with an individual range in mean fibre diameter of 23.2–40.6 μm and an individual range in mean fibre curvature of 34–115°/mm were used. The individual fleeces were sorted to create five, similar-sized, wool-processing lines with the following specifications for mean fibre diameter and mean fibre curvature. Lot 1: low fibre diameter/high fibre curvature (30.2 μm, 72°/mm); Lot 2: high fibre diameter/high fibre curvature (33.5 μm, 70°/mm); Lot 3: medium fibre diameter/medium fibre curvature (32.1 μm, 64°/mm); Lot 4: low fibre diameter/low fibre curvature (31.1 μm, 58°/mm); and Lot 5: high fibre diameter/low fibre curvature (34.5 μm, 51°/mm). Each processing lot was scoured, combed to reduce the proportion of short fibre within each lot and spun into yarn on the semi-worsted system. Mean spindle speed at break (50 fibres in cross-section) and yarn breaking load were greatest for Lot 4 and lowest for Lot 2. Increasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in less unevenness within the yarn and a decrease in neps. Coarse highly crimped fibre produced the bulkiest yarn while the finer straighter fibre produced the lowest bulk yarn. Potential wearability of knitted garments using yarn spun from each processing lot was assessed using standard knitted squares. Increasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in greater relaxation shrinkage in length, while decreasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in increased extensibility in width. Overall resistance to felting shrinkage increased as crimp and diameter increased. There was no difference in pilling between the processing lots. The presented results indicate that increasing fibre curvature in Romcross type sheep as may occur through selection or crossbreeding associated with improving lamb production, will have a beneficial effect on the performance of products made from their wool.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 9
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.785080
Finite element analyses of stress distributions of three-dimensional angle-interlock woven composite subjected to three-point bending cyclic loading
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Baozhong Sun + 3 more

This paper presents the finite element simulation of stress distribution features of 3D layer-to-layer angle-interlock woven composite undergoing three-point bending cyclic loading. With the finite element analysis model, a microstructure shell element model of the woven composite at yarn level was established to calculate the fatigue behaviors and stress distribution during cyclic loading. The stress distributions in the warp, weft yarns, and the resin regions have been calculated to show the stress difference in the woven composite. It has been observed that the warp yarns share the most part of the stress or loading, i.e. the strength warp yarn is more important than that of the weft yarn for the fatigue design. In addition, the stress distributions at the locations where the weft yarns crossover the warp yarns have been investigated. The stress degradations of the top and bottom surface of the woven composite panels were also compared with those in experimental and good agreement was found. With the stress distribution in the woven composite, the method of improving the fatigue damage tolerance was expected to be developed.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 39
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.796627
Electrical, electromagnetic shielding, and some physical properties of hybrid yarn-based knitted fabrics
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Ayse Bedeloglu

Recently, increasing number of studies are performed on protective fabrics containing metal wires for electromagnetic shielding purposes. In the present paper, the hybrid fabrics in plain and rib structures were knitted by using single and double ply hybrid yarns obtained by acrylic (PAC) yarns plied with stainless steel wires having two different diameters. The physical properties including conductivity, air permeability, pilling, and abrasion resistance as well as electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) were measured. The variations in EMSE as well as reflection, absorption, and transmission and in other physical properties of knitted hybrid fabrics were investigated considering wire content and weave structure. It was seen that an increase in the wire content significantly increased the conductivity. Rib fabrics exhibited better EMSE values as compared with plain fabrics. Fabrics using two-folded yarns exhibited better EMSE values. Fabrics using thinner wire exhibited higher EMSE values. The highest EMSE value was obtained for rib-knitted fabric with 35 micrometer (μm) stainless steel wire.

  • Open Access Icon
  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 3
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.796084
Physical and compressional characteristics of a novel 3D fibrous structure – application in comparison between PU foam and 3D fibrous structure
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Nicole Njeugna + 7 more

The question of the recycling of the polyurethane (PU) foam, especially in the automotive industry represents one of the main technology thrust and challenge of the car manufacturers and the Original Equipment Manufacturers’ (OEM) since 2000. Indeed, it is nowadays necessary for car industry to promote ecological methods of development in regard to new consumer sensibility. New textile products present the best alternative solutions to answer this issue of replacement of the PU foam. Based on this fact, a new three-dimensional (3D) fibrous structure made of polyester (PET) material has been developed in order to replace PU foam in automotive trim. These new manufactured 3D fibrous structures are laminated with needle-punched and spun-bonded sheets. The sheets are made of 100% PET, in order to obtain a mono component product. Characterization of physical and mechanical properties of these new 3D fibrous structures, testing methods have to be developed. Based on the automotive specifications, a methodology has been set up to test the compression behavior of these new products. In order to answer the issue of replacement, some PU foam products have also been characterized, and comparisons with alternative products have been conducted. The results of this study show interesting properties of the new 3D fibrous structure in terms of compression behavior when compared to the PU foam.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 17
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.790581
Study on the bagging behavior of knitted fabrics by shape memory polyurethane fiber
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Yan Liu + 3 more

The shape memory polyurethane (SMPU) fabrics were knitted with different SMPU fiber contents for the investigation of its bagging behaviour in this paper. The bagging deformation and recovery of these SMPU-knitted fabrics were determined at different temperatures to evaluate its temperature sensitivity. Our experimental results show that the bagging behavior of the SMPU-knitted fabrics is highly correlated with the amount of SMPU fibers knitted inside the SMPU fabrics. The switching temperature of the SMPU-knitted fabrics is found to be above the phase transfer temperature of SMPU. A comparison between Lycra and SMPU-knitted fabrics is also conducted to validate the shape memory bagging behavior of SMPU-knitted fabrics.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 34
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.782214
The effect of different knitted fabrics’ structures on the moisture transport properties
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • E Öner + 1 more

In this study, fabrics with different plain, tuck and float stitch combinations in three different tightness levels as tight, medium and loose are produced from combed ring spun cotton yarn. It is aimed at determining the effect of fabric structure on liquid absorption, transport and permeability properties, which are important factors in the people’s perception of wear comfort. The air permeability, wicking ability and moisture management measurements of the produced fabrics are made. It is determined that the increase in the fabric tightness decreases the air permeability and increases the wicking ability especially in 60 min measurements. The fabric tightness has also different effects on different knitting types in terms of moisture management properties. It is observed that structures with float stitches show high wicking ability and moisture management properties in terms of plain, tuck and float stitches combinations.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 8
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.782847
Experimental and statistical comparison of selected water absorption test methods
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • Belkıs Zervent Ünal + 1 more

In the study, it is aimed to experimentally and statistically compare the results of selected three different water absorption test methods and for this purpose, terry fabrics having different physical properties and pretreated with sodium hydroxide were used as samples. Correlation and curve estimation analyses were carried out using the obtained hydrophilicity values and degrees as input data. As a result, it was determined that 50% of the samples have the same hydrophilicity degree in three test methods, and a high correlation was detected between the hydrophilicity degrees obtained by water flow and drop tests. In addition, generally, it was concluded that increasing pile height and weight in water have positive effects on hydrophilicity property.

  • Research Article
  • Cite Count Icon 34
  • 10.1080/00405000.2013.780787
Applications of stimuli responsive hydrogels: a textile engineering approach
  • Nov 1, 2013
  • Journal of The Textile Institute
  • A Bashari + 2 more

Stimuli responsive hydrogels (SRHs) are smart materials with reversible changes in their properties through the environmental stimulus variations. Although SRHs have been used in various medical applications such as sensors, drug release systems and, etc., they are still being actively researched on other sectors such as functional textiles and smart clothing. One of the best methods to produce textiles with more functionality is smart finishing of textile by surface modifying stimuli responsive hydrogels. In this paper, literatures on SRHs applications, methods and application of some SRHs on textile have been thoroughly discussed.