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FIGUR PEREMPUAN JAWA DALAM DAMAR KURUNG SEBAGAI INSPIRASI MOTIF BATIK KHAS GRESIK

Javanese women have a position as a pillar of Javanese culture, not only physically but also psychologically which includes perceptions, imaginations, and interpretations of Javanese cultural values. Damar Kurung is a lantern from the 16th century that serves as a marker of the coming of the Month of Ramadan. This culture of light has been gradually eroded by its irrelevant function, especially since electric lights dominate human life. The decoration that decorated the Damar Kurung has been preserved for generations by a female artist: Masmundari. Masmundari died at the age of more than 100 years ago in 2005, after the death of Damar Kurung also faded. This research is qualitative research using a descriptive method that is used to describe the performance of Javanese women in the Damar Kurung decoration. This research was carried out for approximately 8 months which included the research phase, the design phase and the implementation phase of the design results. The data analysis method used is descriptive, which is useful for describing the factual findings of the characteristics of the Damar Kurung ornamental variety along with its historical chronology. The data findings are classified according to the findings of the female performance themes and then developed as an innovation in the typical Gresik batik motif. The purpose of this research is the development of Damar Kurung decoration into batik motifs is one of the conservation efforts to preserve Damar Kurung as a national intangible heritage. And to find out the identity and role of women's gender in Javanese culture. The output of this research is also expected to contribute to the designers and practitioners of the art and/or crafts in order to be able to utilize the local cultural heritage to improve the economy of the creative industries

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Novel Method for Fire Retardancy of Cotton Fabrics Coated by Spinach Leaf Extract Assisted by Corona Discharge Plasma

The application of material physics in the functional textile field has been widely applied, one of which is plasma technology. In this research, the fire-retardant properties have been developed in the cotton fabric textile material using spinach leaf extract and comparison of fire-retardant resin on the market using plasma technology. The flame-retardant is applied to the cotton fabric using the atmospheric-pressure plasma method with a tip-cylinder electrode. The cotton fabric used is a cotton fabric that has undergone a process of bleaching and mercerization. In this research, two types of methods have been carried out, namely the immersion method on the fire-retardant resin substance with atmospheric pressure plasma pre-treatment and the immersion method on spinach leaf extract with atmospheric pressure plasma treatment. Research shows that there is an increase in the fire-retardant properties of cotton fabrics that have been given treatment. The assessment of fire-retardant properties was tested using the standard method of fire-retardant ASTM D6413-08 vertical method. In this research, atmospheric-pressure plasma treatment with a time variation of 2 minutes and 4 minutes has been carried out. The results showed that the cotton fabric treated with the immersion method on spinach leaf extract and atmospheric pressure plasma pre-treatment had better fire-retardant properties. It has also been found that the length of time the plasma treatment will affect the fire-retardant properties of cotton fabrics.

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Gajah Purba Sebagai Ide Pengembangan Motif Batik Sragen

ABSTRACT Sragen Regency is the biggest batik producer in the Solo Raya region. Batik is one of Sragen's superior products, but the existing batik motifs do not yet reflect regional identity. For this reason, it is necessary to develop batik motifs that take the icon of the Sragen region, namely the ancient Sangiran site, specifically the shape of the elephant pubes and bones. The purpose of this study is to make batik motifs that have visual characteristics, so that they can become Sragen regional icons. This research was carried out in the Jalidin batik handicraft business, using the participatory action review method and the creativity development of the craftsmen. The objects of elephants and ancient bones studied were used as a source of ideas in developing batik motif designs by developing the creativity of craftsmen. The results of the study there are two batik motif designs that have the uniqueness and characteristics of the Sragen region, namely the rojo elephant motif and the balung elephant motif. Both of these motifs are the result of exploration and development of the shape of an ancient elephant's head, an ancient elephant consisting of bones, and stylized bone shapes. The design motif includes a design motif for clothes and a fabric motif that can also be made for clothing. The application of motif design development is done by the process of written batik with synthetic dyes and natural dyes. Keywords : motif, batik, elephant, bones

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DYEING OF COTTON FABRIC WITH NATURAL DYE FROM CUDRANIA JAVANENSIS USING SOKA LEAVES EXTRACT AS BIOMORDANT

Tegeran wood (Cudrania javanensis) has been used for dyeing process of batik in Indonesian textile small medium scale enterprise. This wood gave soga color when it was mixed with others natural dye. This study was aim to evaluate the caharacteristic, fastness properties, and strength color of dyed cotton fabrics using C. javanensis with bio-mordant soka leaves extract. Extraction of C. javanensis was carried out using water. The post mordant process was carried out by applying alum (KAl(SO 4 ) 2 •12H 2 O) solution and soka leaves extract on cotton fabrics with the concentration of 0.5 and 1% b/v. Characteristic of dyed cotton fabrics then was evaluated using Fourier-Transform Infrared (F-TIR) Spectroscopy. The results exhibited that, binding between tegeran wood on cotton using mordant alum and soka leaves extract was similar.The fastness properties both dyed cottons toward light and washing at 40oC exhibited poor and very poor values with values of 1-2 and 1. The dry and wet rubbing of dyed cotton using soka leaves extract mordant better than using alum. The soka leaves extract gave yellow and brightness color on cotton.The results suggested that soka leaves extract can be used as mordant substitute the alum mordant and apllied with others natural dyes.

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PENGARUH TEMPERATUR EKSTRAKSI ZAT WARNA ALAM DAUN JATI TERHADAP KUALITAS DAN ARAH WARNA PADA BATIK

Negative impacts especially synthetic dye carcinogenic effect on the environment and the user so natural coloring is now starting to be used because environmentally friendly. The influence of temperature variations on the quality and color direction using natural color teak leaves for batik cloth needs to be examined because the color of the fabric will decline due pelorodan process. The young leaves teak (Tectona grandis) have a wide and large size, used to dye woven materials, have reddish brown color. The method used was variation temperature extraction of 50°C, 75°C and 100°C, fixation of alum, lime, prusi and lotus as well as testing the quality and direction of color. Variations in temperature extraction of teak leaves on cotton fabric and silk using a waterbath expected to know the quality and direction of the colors in batik. Results of testing the fastness to light and washing 40°C for extraction of teak leaf temperature of 50°C, 75°C and 100°C in cotton and silk with fixation alum, lime, prusi or lotus shows good scale with a value of 4 or 4-5. Natural color solution teak leaves with extraction temperature of 100°C resulted in the highest wavelength is 788.50 nm and the absorbance of the total of 0.1402 Abs. Color direction that produced show reddish color will be more visible at 100°C with a fixation alum or lime while prusi or lotus browned .

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Ukiran Bali dalam Kreasi Gitar Elektrik

Abstrak Bali kaya akan ragam hias seni ukir, sehingga menginspirasi untuk diterapkan pada pembuatan produk gitar elektrik. Gitar elektrik dipilih karena badan gitar terbuat dari kayu solid, sehingga ornamen lebih mudah diterapkan serta tidak berpengaruh terhadap resonansi nada. Tujuan penciptaan seni ini adalah untuk menerapkan seni ukir Bali pada produk gitar elektrik. Metode yang digunakan yaitu pengumpulan data, pengembangan ide, perancangan ukiran dan perwujudan produk jadi. Tema penciptaan yang diwujudkan menjadi produk yaitu: (1) legenda klasik Bali, (2) keindahan alam Bali, (3) keagamaan di Bali dan (4) serba-serbi Bali. Hasil survei terhadap 100 orang konsumen selama 6 bulan menunjukkan hasil bahwa tema yang disukai: legenda klasik Bali 45%, keindahan alam Bali 25%, serba-serbi Bali 19% dan keagamaan di Bali 11%. Kata kunci: ukiran Bali, gitar elektrik ukir Abstract Bali has rich decorative carvings which inspire people to apply them on the manufacture of electric guitars. Electric guitar has been chosen as the research object because of its solid wood body, so that the ornaments are easier to apply and do not affect the resonant tones. The purpose of the creation of this art is to apply the Bali product carving on electric guitar. The method used is data collection, development of ideas, carving design, and the realization of finished products. The creation theme realize into products, namely: (1) Bali c lassical legend, (2) Bali natural beauty, (3) Religious sites in Bali, and (4) Sundries of Bali. Surveys results of 100 consumers during in 6 months, shows that the preferred themes are: 45% of Bali classical legend, 25% of Bali natural beauty, 19% of Sundries of Bali, and 11% of Bali spiritualism. Keywords: Balinese carving, electric guitar carving

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