Abstract

We present a nonlinear relationship between ocean surface wind at 10 m height (U 10 ) and significant wave height of wind-generated gravity waves, (H 1/3)gw, over the open oceans using SEASAT radar altimeter data. The data represent a variety of fetches, durations and strength of winds. Concurrent measurement of significant wave height, (H 1/3 ), which may contain a measure of swell and U 10 obtained from the processed geophysical data record (GDR) of the SEASAT radar altimeter were used in the analysis. The total wave energy, E alt, characterised by altimeter H 1/3 measurements was compared with the energy of a fully developed sea, E fd derived from U 10 measurements using the Pierson-Moskowitz model. The criteria E alt ≤ E fd was used in data selection to minimise the influence of swell. (H 1/3)gw thus obtained was used in a regression in terms of U 10 in a second-degree polynomial. Verification with independent radar altimeter data confirmed the validity of the proposed wind-wave model, which could be used for operational wave forecasting.

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