Abstract
Abstract Effects of moveable-bed bottom friction for wave observations and wave modeling are investigated using a state-of-the-art bottom friction model. This model combines the hydrodynamic friction model of Madsen et al. with a moveable-bed roughness model based on Grant and Madsen. Analyzing the present model for idealized swell cases, it is shown that swell might result in wave-generated sand ripples. The large change of roughness corresponding to initial ripple formation results in a preferred wave height for swell, related to bathymetric scales as generally occur in shelf seas away from the coast. The corresponding wave-generated bottom roughness is not defined by the local wave conditions, but is related to the overall energy balance of the wave field. Sediment data thus is imperative for the interpretation of observed decay rates and friction factors for swell. For idealized depth-limited wind seas, near-bottom wave motion is expected to generate partially washed-out ripples and moderate sheet-flo...
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