Abstract

Trousers have traditionally been men’s clothing that women have not been allowed to wear. In this article, I study the history of women’s wearing of trousers in the twentieth-century Finnish context by analysing women’s own memories and experiences of the trouser trend. My research material consists of written reminiscences, which I use, first, to reconstruct the social and cultural factors that framed women’s choices. Second, I approach their personal preferences and choices by analysing their narrative identities in the context of dress. My analysis shows that the cultural norms, conventions and expectations about a proper dress were crucial for adopting a new fashion trend. The most important factor in the choice of apparel was, however, the sensual, embodied experiences of wearing clothes. 

Highlights

  • Women as Consumers and Wearers of FashionWomen’s wearing of trousers has become an important symbol and milestone in both fashion history and gender history because it represents women’s emancipation on many levels

  • Most previous studies on the social and cultural history of women wearing trousers focus on the United States in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries (Fischer 2001; Warner 2005; Buckland 2005; Welters 2005; Rabine & Kaiser 2006; Comstock 2011; Warner 2013) or during the Second World War (Buckland 2005; Hall, Orzada & Lopez-Gydosh 2015)

  • Attitudes towards women’s dress changed during the Second World War as women stepped into jobs and service positions vacated when men left for the war front

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Summary

Women as Consumers and Wearers of Fashion

Women’s wearing of trousers has become an important symbol and milestone in both fashion history and gender history because it represents women’s emancipation on many levels. “They were quite a shock back these trousers”, wrote a woman, born in 1931, in her answer to the Folklore Archives of the Finnish Literature Society, which gathered reminiscences on the history of wearing trousers among women in Finland She had started to wear them in the mid-1940s, but her mother-in-law, for example, never put them on (SKS KRA Housut 298.2006, respondent born in 1931). The history of women’s trousers has been previously discussed mainly by focusing on the role of the fashion industry in initiating and popularising trousers for women. These studies highlight how fashion designers, clothing manufacturers and retailers, fashion magazines, Hollywood films and film stars and other fashion idols revolutionised women’s dress. Women’s trousers are a good example of a fashion that was not easy to adopt, since the trousers fashion was established as early as the 1920s, women did not fully embrace it, or were not given full access to it until the 1970s, and in some cases not even after that (e.g. Vincent 2009: 130–132)

Ethnologia Europaea
Written Oral History Narratives as Research Material
From a Shortage of Goods to Consumer Culture
How Women Learned to Wear Trousers
Daring to Wear Trousers and Getting Used to Them
Full Text
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