Waves on Water of Variable Depth

Abstract

Summary.- Some classical water-wave problems in varying depth.- Linear transport methods for long surface waves in canals, bays and oceans.- Diffraction of gravity waves by ray methods.- Experimental studies of wave refraction.- Summary.- Survey of theoretical research into tsunamis and observations of actual tsunamis in Japan.- Numerical simulation of tsunami generation and propagation in the ocean with a real bathymetry.- Local behaviour of tsunamis.- Cylindrical solitary waves.- Summary.- Shoaling waves : Numerical solution of exact equations.- Wave-wave interactions near the shore.- Surf and run-up.- Laboratory study of a stationary oblique plunging breaker for surfboard testing.- On breaking waves.- Summary.- The dynamics of waves on currents over a weakly varying bed.- Finite-amplitude waves on non-uniform currents.- Triple roots and cusped caustics for surface gravity waves.- Summary.- Ondes internes evanescentes a l'infini dans un milieu liquide stratifie en rotation.- The interaction of surface and internal tides with boundary currents.- Along the strait in thirty six days.- Summary.- Difframon of shelf waves by an irregular coast-line.- The non-linear generation of shelf waves.- Resonance of shelf waves near islands.- Nonlinear aspects of shelf waves and mean currents.- Continental shelf waves in the presence of a sheared geostrophic current.- Generation of shelf waves on the East Australian coast by wind stress.- Long waves on the Southern Ocean.