Wave-Induced Mass Transport in Water Waves

Abstract

The Eulerian mass transport under water waves is studied for an inviscid fluid using finite amplitude wave theories. The distribution of the transport over the water depth for example waves is shown to be confined to a region above the wave trough and is of lesser magnitude than predicted by Airy wave theory. A measured mean velocity is defined to examine the effect of time—averaging over the duration of immersion, and its variation over the water column is also shown. Finally, the presence of a linear shear current in the direction of the wave is shown to alter the total mass transport principally by superposition.