Wave Transformation in Shallow Water

Abstract

The wave description given in Chap. 1 allows easy analysis of wind wave propagation in a coastal area,1 i.e. when relatively short sea waves propagate from deep to shallow water, approaching a coastline. In this case refraction plays a special role among the different factors affecting wave behavior. Due to depth variation it results in the evolution of wave parameters, namely, propagation direction, length, amplitude and wave profile. As noted in the Introduction, there are many papers devoted to the problem of wave transformation in a coastal area. An application of the spectral approach to this problem following from the general formulation is considered in this chapter.KeywordsShallow WaterWave HeightCurrent VelocityWave SpectrumWave TransformationThese keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.