Wave Transformation and Longshore Sediment Transport Evaluation for the Egyptian Northern Coast, via Extending Modern Formulae*

Abstract

Studies and evaluations were carried out for the purpose of analyzing satellite measured data, or carrying out preliminary evaluations for the study area, near Port Said. In this study waves were transformed from the offshore area to the nearshore area, and longshore sediment transport quantities and rates were evaluated by applying and adjusting some of the available modern formulae. This was done by calibrating with the available reference data, as given in the literature. Thus, the applicability of such formulae for that area can be checked. Offshore significant wave heights from altimeter measurements, which can be downloaded at www.waveclimate.com, are used in this research for 2003 through 2005. The study domain dimensions are 50 km long offshore and 25 km wide alongshore. Wave nearshore transformation is carried out by using the mathematical Simulating WAves Nearshore model (SWAN) based on seasonal/directional bases. Four seasons are considered, winter, spring, summer, and autumn, representing the whole year. Three bulk-type modern formulae, Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (CERC), Kamphuis, and Van Rijn, for longshore transport evaluation are applied in the study area. The reference targets used for comparison are based on the literature. Through calibration with the reference targets and among themselves, the study comes up with some correction factors for both CERC and Van Rijn formulae to give quite realistic evaluations for that area. These extended/corrected formulae can also be applied in places with similar conditions to the Egyptian coast.