Abstract

Wave setup and longshore currents on planar beaches induced by directional spectral waves have been computed for beach slopes ranging from 1/100 to 1/10, waves with deep-water wave steepness from 0.005 to 0.08 and offshore incident angles from 1° to 70°. The author's random wave breaking model PEGBIS (Parabolic Equation with Gradational Breaker Index for Spectral waves) is employed for the evaluation of wave attenuation by breaking. Prediction formulas are empirically derived for estimation of the wave setup at the shoreline and the cross-shore distribution of longshore currents on the basis of numerical computation results. Effects of spectral peakedness and directional spreading, surface roller, and turbulent eddy viscosity on wave setup and longshore currents are examined. The formulas have shown the capability to predict the wave setup and longshore currents observed in several field measurements fairly well.

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