Wave Peel Tracking: A New Approach for Assessing Surf Amenity and Analysis of Breaking Waves

Abstract

The creation and protection of surfing breaks along populated coastlines have become a consideration for many councils and governments as surfing breaks are a major driver of tourism. To assess the surf amenity of surfing breaks, a quantitative and objective assessment method is required. A new wave peel tracking (WPT) method has been developed using a shore-based camera to assess surf amenity by measuring and quantifying potential surfing ride rate, length, duration, speed and direction on a wave-by-wave basis. The wave peel (or “curl” below the wave peak) is the optimal surfing region on a wave, and each wave peel track represents a surfable ride. Wave peel regions are identified, classified and tracked using traditional and machine learning-based computer vision techniques. The methodology is validated by comparing the rectified wave peel tracks with GPS-measured tracks from surfers in the wave peel regions. The WPT methodology is evaluated with data from a reef and adjacent natural beach at the Gold Coast, Australia. The reef produced longer ride lengths than the nearshore region and showed a consistent breaking location along the reef crest. Spatial maps of the wave peel tracks show the influence of tides on the wave breaking patterns and intensity. The WPT algorithm provides a robust, automated method for quantifying surf amenity to provide baseline data for surf break conservation. The methodology has potential uses to verify numerical modelling of surf breaks and to assess the impact of coastal development on surf breaks.