Abstract
The results of ten months of measurements of waves, longshore currents, and beach conditions for Santa Margarita River Beach are presented. Tables and graphs give the height, period, and steepness of the incident waves as measured by a subsurface, differential‐type pressure recorder; breaker heights as computed from these data; observed wave directions; longshore current measurements, both magnitude and direction, as obtained by tracing dye thrown into the water; and beach profiles measured along three ranges 500 ft apart from the berm to a depth of about 25 ft. It was found that the three sets of profiles were not consistent in regard to their relationship with varying wave conditions, and further that the type of beach profile (storm or ordinary) apparently did not bear the same relationship to the wave steepness as has been found in laboratory studies.
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