Abstract
Extreme storms can cause rapid morphological changes that pose high risk to society (Sallenger 2000). Semiempirical and process-based models often are used to simulate storm-induced coastal processes (Roelvink et al. 2009, Palmsten & Holman 2012, Stockdon et al. 2014, Overbeck et al. 2017). However, there are few observations of surfzone waves and currents during extreme storms. Therefore, parameterizations often are calibrated by minimizing model-data errors for pre- to post-storm bathymetric and topographic changes, and the accuracy of the simulated processes during the storm is unknown. Here, surf, swash, and dune observations collected near Duck, NC, USA, will be used to investigate wave processes and dune erosion during the passage of recent (2015-2017) Hurricanes.
Highlights
Extreme storms can cause rapid morphological changes that pose high risk to society (Sallenger 2000)
Surfzone waves and currents and wave runup were measured from Sep 27 until Oct 24 with a directional array in 8-m water depth, and with pressure gages, current meters, current profilers, and lidars on two cross-shore transects separated by about 370 m in the alongshore (Figure 1)
Dune and beach topography were measured hourly with the two dune-mounted lidars and with an additional landward-looking lidar mounted on a nearby pier, providing coverage of ∼500 m along the shoreline
Summary
Extreme storms can cause rapid morphological changes that pose high risk to society (Sallenger 2000). FIELD OBSERVATIONS Maximum offshore wave heights in 17-m water depth were about 5.2 m on Oct 09, 2016. Surfzone waves and currents and wave runup were measured from Sep 27 until Oct 24 with a directional array in 8-m water depth (not shown), and with pressure gages, current meters, current profilers, and lidars (mounted on the dune) on two cross-shore transects separated by about 370 m in the alongshore (Figure 1).
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