Wave characteristics and energy distribution over the sloping bed

Abstract

ABSTRACT The knowledge of the wave transformation and the wave-breaking characteristics near the coastline is essential for understanding the nearshore hydrodynamics for the safe design of coastal structures. Waves produce larger orbits and faster orbital velocities at their breaking zones, which have the potential to destroy both man-made structures and shoreline structures. In the present study, sloping bed experimental data on three-dimensional instantaneous velocity as well as wave characteristics such as wavelength, wave height, wave steepness, crest asymmetry, and the evolution of breaker profiles and other wave parameters were evaluated at different locations on a sloping bed with the changes of frequency (f = 0.5, 0.6, and 0.7 Hz) to understand the kinematics and dynamics of the breaking zone. This experiments also demonstrate energy changes along the path of the slope. In addition, phase-averaged velocity, intensity, and Reynolds stress were also evaluated along the slope for surface waves of different frequencies.