Abstract

Understanding wave processes within the coastal system is crucial for the appropriate design of coastal prevention engineering and offshore structures. To address the limitations of field observations and traditional methods, an array of pressure sensors and optical instruments were deployed across a shoreward intertidal flat consisting of the fluid muddy seabed, bare flat, and salt marsh in a highly turbid coastal area. We found that the Spartina alterniflora salt marsh has the strongest wave dissipation capacity. Although bare flats have the weakest wave dissipation capacity, they are the most extensive within the intertidal zone, resulting in substantial total wave energy dissipation. A noteworthy positive feedback between fluid mud and wave dissipation is observed. Additionally, the incident waves undergo complex transitions during propagation, which are strongly modulated by tidal influences. In particular, when the wave propagation direction is opposite to the tidal current, there is an amplification of wave energy within the tidal flat. This amplification is attributed to the "jacking effect" of the tidal current, hindering the transformation of the wind waves into the low-energy capillary waves. It is important to note that the high-energy infragravity waves are gradually released and steadily increase as the incident waves propagate shoreward. This implies their potentially significant role in nearshore processes, especially during extreme dynamic events or along extensive coastlines.

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