Vyshyvanka of Pokuttia and the Elements of Folk Costume: Past and Present (Based on the Expedition to Horodenkivshchyna)

Abstract

The article is devoted to the study of Pokuttia embroidery as a phenomenon of ethnic culture, in particular in Horodenka region. The peculiarities of techniques, ornaments and color range are defined. There we can see rukavienky, risheni and tserkovani embroidered shirts, pleats, skirts «in wheat» and other interesting clothes. The ornaments mostly include geometric figures, flower and plant patterns. There are also shirts with embroidered Ukrainian symbols, in particular in the village of Khmeleva. Embroidery techniques consist of cross stitch, plain stitch, low stitch and even on hoops. It is observed during the expedition, that despite the proximity of the villages, similar elements and local differences in the embroidery and folk costume of Pokuttia region have been found. The villages of Horodnytsia, Cherniatyn and Toporivtsi are distinguished by interesting features of local clothing. Here you can find white-on-white embroidered shirts, flowery embroidery similar to Bukovyna, pleated skirts, men’s straw hats – bryli. As for wedding clothes, Yaseniv Pilnyi and Kopachyntsi demonstrate richness and uniqueness here. The wedding attire of local residents of these villages differs significantly from the other settlements. The list of women’s festive outfits consists of kapanka, fota, kabat, percale. Original elements of men’s clothing consist of futerko, shapka-baranka (lamb hat) and a white cloth «rantukh», that the bridegroom has presented to the bride. In Yaseniv Pilnyi unique women’s jewelry – sylianki – are preserved to this day. Nowadays local women and girls quite reproduce actively ancient samples of these necklaces. Girls from Horodnytsia are famous for ducats, indicating their status. All these features make Horodenkivshchyna a special ethnographic region, where authentic clothing occupies a leading place. And although Ukrainian embroidery is evolving significantly today, it is interesting to see that, despite modern fashions, ancient patterns of embroidery are still actively preserved and passed down from generation to generation in the Horodenkivshchyna.