Veiled Identities: Islam, Hui Ethnicity, and Dress Codes in Northwest China

Abstract

As is common in many Muslim communities, Islamic veiling in China marks important stages in a woman's life, membership in a particular community, and commitment to Islam. In recent years, the richly diverse regional head coverings, especially the "woman's hat" (Ch. nü maozi) and the single-piece scarf (Ch. shajin or toujin) have been gradually replaced by vibrantly-colored hijab-style veils (Ch. gaitou or dadi) more common to countries in Southeast Asia, North Africa, and Turkey. In Xinjiang, "imported" veiling styles have caught the attention of government officials, who have responded by banning certain headwear in an attempt to eradicate Islamic "extremism." Based on research conducted in Gansu and Qinghai, China between 2014 and 2017, this article describes the changing veiling fashions of these regions, and examines the meanings both Muslim women and men attach to them. The embrace of new head coverings suggests a transregional and perhaps trans-minzu solidarity built around a common creed.