Varieties of sewn and stuff ed ornaments in the decor of traditional costumes of Ukrainians of Podillia in the second half of the XIX – early XX centuries

Abstract

Th e purpose of the study: to analyze well-known and little-known works and mu- seum collections and explore the types of embroidered and printed jewellery as a common way of decorating Podolsk traditional clothing of the second half of the nineteenth – early twentieth century. Th e research methodology is based on the principles of historicism, comprehensiveness, systematicity and objectivity. Th e latter, in turn, are implemented through a combination of gene- ral scientifi c, historical and ethnological methods with other interdisciplinary methods, inclu ding statistical, descriptive, system-structural, as well as methods of museum source studies, visual an- thropology and technical research. Th e scientifi c novelty is that for the fi rst time an attempt is made to determine the regional and local features of sewn and printed ornaments in the form of applications or individual details for the decoration of folk clothing of Ukrainians in all subregions of Podillia. Conclusions. Th us, in order to decorate the components of the folk costume of Podolsk Ukrainians of the second half of the XIX – early XX centuries used such techniques and techniques of application and placement of decor as weaving, beating, embroidery, stripes and stuffi ng in the form of applications or individual parts. Stitched and printed ornaments as a way of decoration were widespread among underwear, waist, chest and outerwear, headdresses, belts, jewellery, shoes and clothin g accessories. Oft en sewn and printed ornaments played a central role in the overall composition, contributing to the balance and unifi cation clothing elements of the traditional com- plex of Podolian clothing. Moreover, the infl uences of neighbouring historical and ethnographic re- gions and districts, in particular, Bukovyna, Volyn, Opillia, Pokuttia, Naddniprianska and South- Steppe Ukraine, were seen in these types of methods of decorating the folk clothing of Ukrainians of Podillia. Th us, the varieties of Podolsk embroidered and printed ornaments can be considered as a valuable source of comparative information on the material and spiritual cultural heritage of Podillia in particular and Ukraine in general.