Abstract
The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products.
Highlights
Valuable phenolic compounds can be recovered from several edible fruits and vegetables, and from different food by-products such as citrus fruits, orange peels [1,2,3], lemon peels, pomelo peels [3], grapefruit peels [4] and olive leaves [5,6,7]. in addition to pomegranate fruits peels and seeds [8,9,10], peach pomace [11] and viticulture byproducts, in particular vine shoots [12,13,14,15,16,17] and winemaking by-products, especially grape pomace [18,19,20,21,22]
The novelty of this review resides in its waste-to-market approach. It analyses the effects of the extraction methods and parameters on the diversity and quality of the recovered phenolic compounds and their stability when incorporated in cosmetic products
The results suggested the use of grape pomace extract as antiaging agent due to its inhibitory effects of the elastase, collagenase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 enzymes
Summary
Valuable phenolic compounds can be recovered from several edible fruits and vegetables, and from different food by-products such as citrus fruits, orange peels [1,2,3], lemon peels, pomelo peels [3], grapefruit peels [4] and olive leaves [5,6,7]. in addition to pomegranate fruits peels and seeds [8,9,10], peach pomace [11] and viticulture byproducts, in particular vine shoots [12,13,14,15,16,17] and winemaking by-products, especially grape pomace [18,19,20,21,22]. As a substituents waste, grape in pomace still conof at least oneby-products benzene ring with one or considered more hydroxyl their chemical tains a high amount of valuable phenolic compounds. Those are characterized by the presstructure [29]. The novelty of this review resides in its waste-to-market approach It analyses the effects of the extraction methods and parameters on the diversity and quality of the recovered phenolic compounds and their stability when incorporated in cosmetic products. Technique, the cosmetics products in which polyphenols were formulated and the acquired biological activities
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