Using a life cycle assessment to identify the risk of “circular washing” in the leather industry

Abstract

Although the circular economy is a key strategy to mitigate climate change, the relationship between them has rarely been investigated. This study aims to fill this gap by applying a life cycle assessment to evaluate the benefits of circularity interventions in the tanning industry. We compared the baseline scenario with no circular actions a circular scenario with salt recovery and tannin baths reuse. We then calculated the environmental benefits with regard to vegetable-tanned leather. Although our results proved the positive effects of the circularity activities adopted in the production phase, the environmental impacts related to the upstream supply chain of the leather accounted for 85% of the total negative impact. In fact, the environmental benefits obtained were completely nullified by the impact of cattle raising and slaughtering, which even led to a slight deterioration in the circular scenario. Our study highlighted the need to better align interventions designed to promote circularity and mitigate climate change by expanding the range of actions to the company's suppliers. We revealed that a green supply chain management is key to achieving circularity and a zero-carbon future. Lastly, we also highlighted the importance of adopting life cycle assessments to evaluate the effects of circular business models, but especially to identify the main environmental hotspots. By using an LCA, organisations will be able to avoid circular washing, i.e., circular practices that provide only limited benefits in relation to the overall environmental footprint.