Abstract
DeoxyArbutin (dA) is a tyrosinase inhibitor that has effective skin-lightening activity and has no obvious cytotoxicity toward melanocytes. With the aim of directly evaluating the effects of microemulsions containing dA on cells, we developed oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsions with relatively lower cytotoxicities by using polysorbate-series surfactants. Measurement of the transparent properties and particle size analysis at different storage time periods revealed that the developed microemulsions were stable. Moreover, the developed microemulsions had direct effects on B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. The anti-melanogenesis activities of dA-containing microemulsions were evidently better than that of the free dA group. The results demonstrated that the developed microemulsion encapsulating dA may allow the use of deoxyArbutin instead of hydroquinone to treat dermal hyperpigmentation disorders in the future.
Highlights
DeoxyArbutin (4-[(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl) oxy] phenol; dA) is a molecule modified from arbutin by Dr Boissy’s research group (Figure 1A)
To develop safe microemulsions for cellular assessment, we chose the polysorbate series of surfactants, including Tween 20, 40 and 80 and the co-surfactant polyethylene glycol 200 (PEG 200) as the surfactant components
Inside the droplets, the isopropyl palmitate (IPP) oil phase was fixed at a lower level, around 2%
Summary
DeoxyArbutin (4-[(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl) oxy] phenol; dA) is a molecule modified from arbutin by Dr Boissy’s research group (Figure 1A). This reversible tyrosinase inhibitor has effective skin-lightening activity and shows no obvious cytotoxicity against melanosomes on melanocytes in vivo [1,2]. DA has strong skin-lightening and antioxidant activity. The formulations used, so that dA can maintain its stability and efficacy, are very important. For this reason, the dA market is still restricted, and only a few cosmetic products can be found in some countries such as the Philippines and USA. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) of the European
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