Using a bench-top rotor spinning system to measure variation between individual fleeces for predicting yarn and fabric characteristics

Abstract

There is limited information available on variation among individual fleeces in yarn and fabric performance. In this study, 45 mid-side fleece samples (~30 g clean wool) with a wide range in fibre diameter, fibre diameter variation, curvature and felt ball diameter were used to determine whether these fleece characteristics significantly affected yarn and fabric shrinkage, and fabric pilling. Mid-side wool samples ranged from 13.5 to 24.0 µm mean fibre diameter, 46–108°/mm curvature and 22.2–30.2 mm felt ball diameter. Yarn felt shrinkage was significantly (P < 0.001) correlated with fibre diameter (r = –0.52), and total yarn shrinkage (r = 0.99). Fabric felt shrinkage was significantly (P < 0.01) correlated with curvature (r = –0.62), standard deviation of curvature (r = –0.60), and felt ball diameter (r = –0.51). Fibre diameter and curvature accounted for 31% of the variation in yarn felt shrinkage. Standard deviation of curvature and felt ball diameter accounted for 33% of the variation in fabric shrinkage. Fabric pilling was significantly (P < 0.001) correlated with fibre diameter (r = 0.65), with fibre diameter and standard deviation of curvature accounting for 48% of the variation in fabric pilling. These results show that it is possible to predict yarn and fabric shrinkage and fabric pilling outcomes of individual fleeces using raw wool parameters. This study indicates that there is considerable phenotypic variation between individual Merino fleeces in the properties of yarn and fabric produced, suggesting that it is possible to quantitatively select individual sheep directly for yarn and fabric outcomes to improve the consumer performance of woollen fabrics.