Use of Curcuma longa in cosmetics: extraction of curcuminoid pigments, development of formulations, and in vitro skin permeation studies

Silvana Mariana Srebernich,Thais Barbiero Lasca,Cecilia Toyoko Cavalcanti Shiraishi,Victória Rodrigues de Camargos,Pedro Paulo Barros,Gisele Mara Silva Gonçalves,Gustavo Henrique da Silva

doi:10.1590/s1984-82502014000400024

Abstract

Curcuma longais a ginger family aromatic herb (Zingiberaceae) whose rhizomes contain curcuminoid pigments, including curcumin, a compound known for its anti-inflammatory effects. The objective of this study was to obtain curcuminoid-rich extracts, develop topical formulations thereof, and assess the stability and skin permeation of these formulations. Curcuma longa extracts were obtained and used to develop formulations. Skin permeation studies were conducted in a modified Franz diffusion cell system, and skin retention of curcuminoid pigments was quantified in pig ear membrane. Prepared urea-containing gel-cream formulations were unstable, whereas all others had satisfactory stability and pseudoplastic rheological behavior. The amount of curcuminoid pigments recovered from the receptor solution was negligible. The skin concentration of curcuminoid pigments retained was positive (>20 µg/g of skin, mostly in the stratum corneum), considering the low skin permeability of curcumin. We conclude that development of topical formulations containing curcumin or Curcuma longaextract is feasible, as long as adjuvants are added to improve preservation and durability. The formulations developed in this study enabled penetration of curcumin limited to the superficial layers of the skin and then possibly without a risk of systemic action, thus permitting local use as a topical anti-inflammatory.

Highlights

There is great research interest in medicinal plants, which have been used from time immemorial by a variety of peoples for the treatment of illness (Yunes, Pedrosa, Cechinel Filho, 2001; Firmo et al, 2011)
Skin permeation was assayed in an open diffusion system based on a Franz cell apparatus design coupled to a water circulator at 36 °C (PCB 150 Water Peltier System®)
The results of this study show that formulation 10 had the greatest skin retention, despite containing no substances that could facilitate skin permeation

Summary

Introduction

There is great research interest in medicinal plants, which have been used from time immemorial by a variety of peoples for the treatment of illness (Yunes, Pedrosa, Cechinel Filho, 2001; Firmo et al, 2011). The C. longa plant contains a rhizome, or main stem, with several offshoots or ramifications that have a distinctive orange color due to the presence of curcuminoid pigments (curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, and cyclocurcumin). Curcumin is the major such pigment, and in vitro tests have demonstrated its antiparasitic, antispasmodic, and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as potential anticancer activity (Lin, Lin, 2008; Silva Filho et al, 2009). Swanson et al (2010) showed that C. longa extract has antioxidant effects and the ability to modulate inflammatory response. Hamzah (2011) assessed the antiinflammatory effect of curcumin extract topical gel in the carrageenan-induced albino rat paw edema model. Huang et al (1997) found that topically applied curcumin was a potent inhibitor of induced skin tumor formation. It is presumed that curcumin would be capable of preventing skin tumors and insults such as spots and wrinkles

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Conclusion