Unveiling the Complexity of Japanese Metallic Threads

Ludovico Geminiani,Sila Motella,Laura Rampazzi,Francesco Paolo Campione,Moira Luraschi,Cristina Corti,Sandro Recchia

doi:10.3390/heritage4040221

Abstract

In the framework of an extensive survey campaign on a collection of Japanese samurai armors, metallic threads from different parts of the traditional equipment were studied by several analytical techniques. The collection of armors belongs to Museo delle Culture (Lugano, Switzerland) and it is composed of ten elements, which date back from the 15th to 20th century. Metallic threads under study come from six of ten elements of the collection and represent a complex and unique multimaterial, which shows specific characteristics in Japanese tradition (kinran). The multianalytical approach based on ATR-FTIR (Attenuated Total Reflection-Fourier Transform Infrared) spectroscopy and SEM-EDX (Scanning Electron Microscopy, Energy Dispersive X-Ray) analysis, together with a careful observation with optical and digital microscopy, permitted to obtain a complete characterization of materials, which have shown a great variability in metal foils and in organic adhesives (urushi, animal glue, starch). Gold and silver turned out to be not so largely used as scholars thought, while aluminum showed a great diffusion. Within the collection of analyzed armors, the obtained results allowed us for the first time to get a complete comprehension of materials and techniques used by Japanese craftsmen, and to observe differences in the quality of the materials and in manufacture technology over the centuries.

Highlights

Metals have often represented a precious adornment for mankind since antiquity
The multianalytical approach based on ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy (SEM)-EDX analysis, together with a careful observation with optical and digital microscopy, permitted to obtain a complete characterization of materials, which have shown a great variability in metal foils and in organic adhesives
Great variability was recognized in the samples, showing that the topic is more complex than expected and is worthy of in-depth studies

Summary

Introduction

Metals have often represented a precious adornment for mankind since antiquity. Beyond jewelry and decorated metal artefacts for everyday life, metals in textiles deserve a particular mention. Depending on ages and cultures, clothes were decorated in various ways through patterned weaving, embroidery, painting, or dyeing; among these, the use of precious, metallic threads was generally considered distinctive and reserved to political and religious elites [1,2]. The use of metallic threads did not decrease, and we can find it in Croatian liturgical vestments and festive folk costumes from the 17th to 20th century [10], Spanish coaches and furniture textiles from the 18th to 19th century [11], Turkish caftans and brocades dating between the 16th and 19th century [12], ornamentation for ecclesiastic clothing, religious statues, and church decoration from the Colonial Andes, which dates back to 17th and 19th century [13]. Gold alloyed with silver, gilded or gilt-silvered copper, and gold-like copper alloys (e.g., pinchbeck alloy or brass) were used as the materials for the metal strips or wires [1], until the introduction of aluminum in the late 19th century, which brought to market new combinations of materials [14]

Methods

Results

Conclusion