Abstract

Proclaiming itself 'the mouthpiece of women', the newspaper al-'Afaf began publication in Cairo in 1910. It declared itself dedicated to improving women's condition by encouraging morality and modesty, and showed on its cover a drawing of a woman standing in front of pyramids and a sphinx and holding her arm aloft with a banner 'Modesty Is My Motto'. Across her face she wore a light, translucent veil which left her eyes uncovered and allowed her mouth and nose to show faintly through. But three issues later, the plate was revised and the nose, face and chin were blotted out, covered by a thick veil. After opponents had attacked the paper for its possible immorality (owing to an alleged mixing of male and female staff members at a reception), the paper emphasized its conservative stance by changing the style of the veil shown on the cover.' In early twentieth-century Egypt positions on the veil were becoming more polarized in a lively and widespread debate over al-hijab (veiling) versus al-sufur (unveiling). The growing schism over veiling reflected the larger struggle between traditionalists and modernists, for the veil proved one of many issues which divided them. It signaled modesty and honor to traditionalists and the backwardness of the nation to modernists. Yet, the trends in veiling were not only a response to ideological debates but also a reaction to social, economic, and cultural changes. Thus the veil was both a symbol of contention and a practical issue. For those concerned with fashion and separation, the veil was an item of dress with a functional purpose. As fashion changed and lines of separation began to blur, use changed and further fueled debate. Women set the discussion on veiling into this broader context, balancing abstract arguments with practical considerations.

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