Understanding consumer lock-in mechanisms towards clothing libraries: A practice-based analysis coupled with the multi-level perspective

Abstract

Current consumer practices in clothing seem somewhat locked in : despite the presence of a collective awareness of the need to adopt more sustainable modes of consumption, the appeal of personal ownership still prevails. This may explain why alternatives to fast fashion like clothing libraries are struggling to recruit and retain consumers. Drawing on an analytical framework coupling the Multi-level Perspective (MLP) and Social Practice Theory (SPT), the aim of this paper is to thoroughly depict the relative depth of different lock-ins currently preventing consumers from using clothing libraries and thereby broadening the thinking on their wider uptake. This study draws upon the findings from a focus group with Belgian women concerning their current clothing consumption practices. Insights from the workshop show how the MLP can reinforce SPT through revealing two distinct levels of lock-ins: shallow lock-ins which relate to the ingredients of the practice of individuals and deeper lock-ins which are linked to socio-cultural constructs. The results notably point to the importance of society's perception, price representation, the perception of oneself and the projection of a (better) self as shallow lock-ins. The findings also underline deeper lock-ins among which the purchase driven by desires (instead of needs), the pleasure of purchasing as a driver of clothing consumption and the projection of an achievement through the consumption of clothing. Accordingly, it is only by considering and adapting to these lock-in mechanisms that clothing libraries will be able to enhance their attractiveness.