Transformation of statistical and spectral wave periods crossing a smooth low-crested structure

Abstract

We carried out experimental studies of a smooth submerged breakwater in a wave channel in order to study such a structure impacts on the changes of statistically and spectrally defined representative wave periods as waves cross it. We discuss the impact of relative submersion, i.e. the relationship between the breakwater crown submersion and the incoming significant wave length Rc/Ls–i, on the representative wave periods. The mean periods, estimated using statistical and spectral methods, were compared in front of and behind the breakwater: the two periods turned out to be identical. Based on the measurements of the spectral mean wave periods in front of and behind the breakwater, an empirical model is derived for estimating the reduction in mean spectral period for submerged and emerged smooth breakwaters.