Trans* inclusivity in fashion retail: Disrupting the gender binary with queer perspectives

Abstract

This study is about gender-inclusive fashion retail, with a focus on trans* inclusivity. It is based on primary and secondary research of trans* issues in fashion. This research resulted in an inclusive pop-up shop that eliminated the reinforcement of the gender binary present in conventional fashion retail. Primary research consisted of semi-structured shop-and-talk interviews with end users and industry experts. All end-user interviews were conducted in Toronto in a minimum of two different fashion retail stores, such as one department store and one gendered store. The expert interviews were conducted in a context that matched the individual, such a designer’s home studio. Secondary research used a blended framework of queer, intersectional and post-capitalist theories to analyse trans* discrimination, unisex fashion and transness in popular culture. Key themes derived from these areas were cultural variance of gender expression, lack of accurate trans* representation and superficial queer initiatives. Fashion is based on the socially constructed gender binary, which excludes trans* people and cisgender (cis) people who are gender non-conforming in dress. The heteronormative and cis-normative beauty standards of fashion shame those who do not follow them. The current trans* representation in fashion is minimal and problematic. Real trans* people and narratives are not broadcasted by mainstream media; however, tokenized trans* celebrities and cis people acting as trans* mouthpieces are. This research questions how services and environments of fashion retail can be redesigned to be gender inclusive, by normalizing disruptive gender expression and increasing trans* visibility. This research is important because of the empowerment, validation and safety that queer and trans* people deserve when in public spaces.