TRADITIONAL UKRAINIAN PEOPLE CLOTHING AS A MARK OF ETHNIC IDENTITY OF THE END OF THE XIX – EARLY OF THE XX CENTURY (ON THE EXAMPLE OF THE ZALISHCHYSKY PODNISTROVYA)

Abstract

Summary. The purpose of the study is to uncover the features of traditional folk clothing, including the embroidery of the Zalishchysky Podnistrovya, and to establish its influence on the ethnic identity, identity, and consciousness of the end of the XIX ‒ early of the XX century. The research methodology is based on the principles of historicity, systematicity, and objectivity. The interdisciplinary nature of the research has led to the use of a whole range of general scientific, philosophical and special historical methods, among which it is expedient to distinguish the following: field, historical, selective survey, observation, etc.The scientific novelty of the research is conditioned by the analysis of the stock collections of the Zalishchyk Museum of Local History, field materials, and the available theoretical base, which made it possible to distinguish the basic structural and artistic features of menʼs and womenʼs folk clothing (embroideries) of one of the Ternopil regions and to establish their influence on the place originality. The main methods of embroidering are analyzed separately: nyz, lyshtva, zanyzuvannya. The influence of traditional clothing and embroidery ornament on the contemporary culture and consciousness of Ukrainians is determined.Conclusions. It is established that for the territory of the Zalishchysky Podnistrovya of the end of the XIX ‒ early of the XX century the characteristic division of clothing by gender, age, function, and the style of ornament. Womenʼs clothing, except for the upper, was more diverse than menʼs. The traditional embroidery of geometric and floral ornaments was the dominant element of the decoration. The variety of Ukrainian traditional clothing and the meaningful filling of the embroidery has a significant influence on the ethnic mentality and consciousness of the Ukrainians of today and is manifested in the revitalization of national memory, adherence to traditions, the transformation of the embroidery from the element of decoration of casual clothes into sacred and festive.