Tradition (re-)defined: Farm v factory trade-offs in the definition of geographical indications, the case of Three Counties Cider

Abstract

The UK is the largest international market for cider. Around 11 per cent of the UK market is accounted for by ‘craft’ or traditional ciders made by both small scale ‘farm’ and large-scale ‘factory’ producers. Drawing on the worlds of production framework we examine the contrasting perspectives of farm and factory producers on the geographical indication (GI) awarded to Three Counties Cider in 1996. Interviews with producers highlight commonalities of view across both groups around weak enforcement and a lack of understanding among UK consumers of geographical indications of origin. Both are thought to undermine the producer, consumer and tourism benefits of the GI. Differences of view between farm and factory producers emerge, however, about the value of the GI in protecting traditional production values and artisanal producers. This relates specifically to the permissiveness of the GI in terms of allowing non-traditional production methods more commonly associated with large-scale production. While consistent with the factory production of craft cider, farm producers argue that the allowance of non-traditional production methods reduces the value of the GI in terms of protecting food heritage and artisanal production. Our analysis emphasises the tensions implicit in the codification of heritage food products in legal instruments such as GIs and the challenges of formal heritagisation processes. Our results also suggest lessons for the UK's Protected Food Names scheme which will come into operation after Brexit and highlight the tension for those developing GIs between supporting artisanal production and protecting, the potentially more economically significant, factory-based production of traditional products.